dickandlois

Dr. Don. I forgot to ask the reason you have to pull the engine. Should you decide to pull it or just need to, while its out you may want to change the timing chain and gears. Look into replacing them with the timing set from the 392 engine. Should be a direct fit. The reason is, they do not put the plastic catting on the gears to reduce the the noise, so that is two fewer items to go bad, as plastic brakes down over time and the timing chain can jump timing as the plastic wears. The other item is, they used a plastic coupler at the point where the oil pump and distributor connect and that coupler is pron to braking and one looses oil pressure. The drive gear between the cam shaft drives the distributor and not the oil pump. there is a slot in the lower end of the distributor shaft and the oil pump shaft has a flat ( a little like a flat headed screw driver) that fits into that slot. Held in place by a plastic coupler. Good luck, Rich.

The pan gasket on the 454 power Coach needed to be replace and I wanted to replace the Oil pump at the same time. The shop said that on my coach they would have to remove the front cowling. That is removing the entire front from the coach. So like Chris mentioned, get some feed back for different shops and service centers. I did the work on my engine, Removing the chassis connections and the Doghouse cover and side assembly, Pulled the front sets, placed plywood over floor rug, loosened the exhaust pipes from the hearers, Removed part of the drive shaft, Assembled the engine hoist inside the coach, Connected a chain to the lift points on the engine and the hoist, disconnected the transmission and slid it out of the way. Loosened the motor mounts, Drained the cooling system, removed the radiator hoses, Lifted the engine slightly, removed the engine mount bolts lifted the engine and mover it back just enough to remove the flywheel so I could get the oil pan to just clear the front axle cross member, removed the oil pump and the distributor. Them installed the new oil pump, pan gaskets and seals. Set the pump drive shaft so that the distributor shaft would connect to the oil pump drive and the engine timing was close to its proper setting. And started to reassemble everything in the reverse order that I had removed things. One needs the proper tools and equipment to do this. The good thing was it worked after all the work. One for the old guy and he was allot younger at the time. Had I needed to pull the engine, think the approach would have worked, the biggest issue that I could foresee was getting the engine out the side door with the help of a wrecker to control the engine weight so it would not fall as the hoist was extended out the side of the coach. The job is not for the faint hearted and every move must be thought out in advance. Rich.

Harvey, The tag axle can be raised and lowered. To change the load the axle is carrying, to being lifted off the road. When lifted off the road surface the drive tires have better traction and as you mentioned it helps make sharp turns with out the tires scuffing across the surface. Rich.

Sounds like a venting problem or loose clamps as suggested by DD. With a full fuel tank as the fuel heats up and expands it will be forced back out the filler hose to a point it can leak out. The fuel filling line needs to be above the tank inlet level the entire length of the fill line, no dips between the Filler Cap and fuel tank. Could you post if the Bus is hard to fill, like takes fuel slowly or fuel kind of bubbles back out the filler when fueling? Rich.

Dean, Just wondering what you intake manifold temps run when you water temps hit 226 deg. The only time we had major cooling issues was when the thermostat failed, driving at any altitude or temperatures was impossible with the slightest grade. When its hot (90+) and running at over 5000 ft. I'm right at the point where my temps. start to go above the comfort zone. The rest of the time everything runs within or near nominal. Same elevation, same road: early AM or evening when its just a little cooler, back around 80 deg. the engine coolant runs right at 190/195 and the intake temp only runs around 170 / 180 when running up hill. I do pressure wash after returning from a trip of over 3K when we return home and more often should we travel in dusty areas when a truck stops shows. up. I'm thinking that the CAC and radiator cooling capacity is maxed out around 90deg. and over 5000ft. pulling a grade for an extended period. Should one of them fail, I well be looking at resizing both. Rich.

Hi Maiti62! Welcome to FMCA ! I'm not the main operator of ours, there are some tricks to loading and using them. The DW attended a seminar at one of the FMCS Rally's to get the lowdown. Do know that they work OK, just have to get used to smaller loads, but then I'm only the traveling Mechanic. Rich.

Kay, I'm not sure of his skill level(s) and the possibility of the shock hazard! Capacitors spark well when discharged and pack a shocking result when not discharged! The other item is the starter block. Hope we get back his thoughts before proceeding. Rich.

Does the tag Axle go down properly? Enough to support some of the coach weight? There could be an air leak at some point! should the air lines pass through the frame rail(s) look closely for any chaffing / ware to the line at that point and like Herman mentioned, check the MAC vent port for obstructions. You mentioned that you had 12 volts to the Valve, have you checked the ground connection? Rich.

Hi Phil, Welcome to FMCA ! How long has it been sense you used the fridge on LP? The one thing that I would check is gas heater vent. Mud Dobbers, Wasp and other insects love to build nest in the area. Think this link will get you to an owners manual for it. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/rm2310.pdf Rich.

djbreithaupt, You might want to contact Freightliner Factory Service. http://freightlinerchassis.com/component/option,com_servicecenters/Itemid,64/bl,00/so,FCSC/view,servicecenter/ I do not know where you live, but they work on all there chassis and would be a good starting point for information and service. You will need to have the last 6 numbers / letter of your VIN. number. Rich.

jlacaeyse, This is a link to the Winnebago sight for information on parts and manuals. Electrical information available, click on the links related to you coach. Do not know your skill levels, but you can look over things and see what is involved regarding the different systems on your coach. http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/ Rich.

Billybuk ! Welcome to FMCA. Ditto to DD's thought and also check and see if the fans are mounted securely, like did they forget to tighten something. It is a little tight behind some of the refrigerators so you might want to get an inspection mirror or even from the roof or upper vent as most fans are mounted high in the back of the refrigerator blowing upward. Most auto supply stores stock inspection mirrors. Flashlight come in handy to. Rich.

pframe, The only item that comes to mind is that your 12 volt buss feeds a 2 buss 12 volt fuse panel and one of the feeders is loose at the fuse box or at the point its connected to the main buss, or a buss issue closer to the battery distribution wiring. The fact that the voltage was intermittent and got worse over time just sounds like a loose connection. Check the screw terminals behind the 12 volt fuse panel. REMEMBER to disconnect the 12 volt feeds, using the disconnect switch or relay(s). Real key would be if all the items affected get power from the same panel. Rich.

Ditto !!! From running fine, to smoke and both turbo's. Like loosing both mags on a LYCO 260 at the same time. The odds have got to be ??? Rich.

Dennis, got your PM and information And you name. With the help of the other members of FMAC we will work on your issues together. Rich.

Mike, The valve that Herman is referring to is the MAC valve in the area of the rear air manifold. The Valve should get power (12 volts) from a black wire running from the Tag axle control switch. Should you measure 12 volts at the Valve, make sure you have a good ground on the other terminal. There might be a 7.5 amp fuse bad in the ACC / ING fuse box. Everything is tied into the ride height control system so if that is working, the problem is most likely Mud Dobbers. Herman! that is what the Northern boys call um. The supply air line is Green and the output from the Mac valve to the tag is Orange, that is what the drawings say. That might help find the valve. Rich.

Baddad53, Here is a link to the operation manual and wiring information that should cover your system. I looked it over and do not see any connection or relationship between it and the air dump system. http://www.rvajacks.com/pdf/autopr80405.pdf Link to company and parts information. http://www.rvajacks.com/ Rich.

Hi huffypuff, Welcome to FMCA, Just wondering how many miles on the tires and there age? Rich.

This thread has questions about Girard awning and LED's doing some strange things. Awnings extending, on there own when the generator or inverter is running and LED's lighting up when the inverter is running. Sounds like Kay found a bounding issue at the transfer switch / solenoid that when addressed cleared up the his LED issue. Looked up some information on the Girard Awnings. They supply both a 110 volt AC system and a 12 volt DC system. The remote controls work on RF. The fact that they operate on an RF signal could mean a bounding issue, but they are prone to RF interference. This problem is frequently a grounding or shielding problem. So I would suggest checking all the circuit connections pertaining to the receiver, paying close attention to the ground connections and the twist spacing of the exposed cabling. This spacing or twists per in. can have a profound affect on reducing RF and noise interference. The little things are the ones that can make or brake proper operation of RF frequency remotely controlled systems. The devil is in the details and the devil enjoys harassing us. I have to see if I can find the frequency(s) used by Girard so I can try to calculate the best wire twist to minimize interference problems. Rich.

Hi Dennis, Welcome to FMCA! Could you attach pictures of the corners where the dash meets the wall on the drivers side and passenger side. Also one of the area just in front of the passenger seat. The corners of the dash should not move. I do have an idea of what that problem my be, but pictures would help. I suspect the corners will up and down without much force. Regarding the windshield, they mount into the front fiberglass cowling with the rubber seal and float for lack of a better term. This lets the cowling flex while still holding the glass in place. The number of pictures that one can attach is limited so lets start with the dash. If you click on my name tag a window will open and there is a (send me a message box), click on it and you can send me a private message. one can attach pictures to this message also. Rich.

Hi Leo !! Do you have an awning or LED lighting issue? Sounds like a needle in a very large haystack. Now the key question is, did you have the problem when the coach was purchased? Got to start somewhere: Do your awnings extend or LED's light when on shore power, generator and when the inverter is running or just a particular set up? What model Inverter do you have? Thinking you may not have any friends on the page if you keep coming up with all these oddball problems Good to know you are still out there running around again. Rich.

The issue of a Toasted Turbo charger recently came up on one of the engine threads, in this case the bearing failed. However, the turbo spool fins can get damaged by dirt passing through the air filter or a number of other reasons. One then gets to the why did mine fail. I did have the high pressure oil line to mine fail at the connection point where it enters the turbo. The only thing that saved me from major damage is the fact that every time we stop, a walk around is done. Looking at every item from the roof line down and a look under the coach from the front, back and sides. Also feel the tires for unusual heat or a difference in temperature between tires. One stop revealed the smell of hot oil in the area of the engine. No sign of oil on the bottom of the engine and no puddle or dripping. Opened the dog house cover and a small column of gray smoke was rising from the area of the turbo. Turbos need oil and a good quantity of it-- remember they are spinning at high speed and are mounted in the exhaust system. About the hottest location on the engine. Good oil, filters, not trying to push the oil change intervals and allowing for a cool down time when stopping if the engine has been running under a heavy load just before pulling off the road; all are good for the engine and ones wallet. The other item that can eat up a turbo is dirt!! Dirt particles passing over and through turbine blades is like the inside of a sand blaster on the intake. This removes fine metal that then goes through the CAC where some material starts to build up decreasing its efficiency, then whats left is ingested by the engine. A little like running sandpaper on every stroke. The cost of having dirty air filers, loose couplings on the intake side of the turbo and any holes or damaged area to the intake plumbing can let in dirt, that can lead to a complete engine job along with any items in the loop. This could also mean replacing the Air Compressor that is also connected to the same air source. Lower power performance and to some degree a longer time replacing the air in the air systems are a clue to air intake issues. Remember In the case of air pressure issues, leaks at any point also will affect air levels. That makes keeping the air path integrity in good condition, oil and filters a rather inexpensive option. Sometimes one can do everything right and still have a turbo / engine failure. Rich.

By the way do not forget to reconnect the Alternator exciter wire after you see it the alternator is the source of your noise. It's a bummer having dead batteries. Rich.

Hi Mike, Welcome to FMCA ! You might want to start by reading this thread. Tire pressure is related to load and there is no one answer, do to the load variables, model, year, kind of tires and some other items. You can start by looking for the weight information sticker on the coach. Some times on the door frame or in one of the cupboards. No standard location for stickers. Get your feet wet so to speak and then ask away. http://community.fmca.com/topic/5781-had-motorhome-weighed;-now-what/ Rich.

How many bowling balls do you think one can load into a 40 ft. DP. I only have 2, but if I ever get carried away! Nah, Now when it come to tools, traveling with a Quilter and my fishing gear, That could be a problem. Rich.