dickandlois

Have you run the system test? Chapter 5 - Help & Troubleshooting The System Test allows you to run a basic diagnostics check on your DIRECTV Receiver. If you are experiencing any trouble with your receiver, run the system test. It will also allow you to get your access card and receiver ID numbers or to initiate diagnostic procedures on your digital satellite receiver. First make sure that: 1. All connections -- jacks, cables, etc. -- are in place correctly. See Chapter 4, “Connections for TV and Auxiliary Equipment” for more information. 2. There are batteries in the remote control, and they are working correctly. 3. The access card is inserted in the DIRECTV Receiver. Follow these steps to run the diagnostics system test on your DIRECTV Receiver: 1. Turn on your TV and the DIRECTV Receiver. 2. Slide the mode switch to the DIRECTV position to put the remote control in satellite receiver-controlling mode, then press MENU. 3. Select “Parental, Fav’s & Setup.” 4. Select “System Setup,” then “Info & Test.” 5. Select “Run System Test”. For Standard-Definition receivers, press GREEN on your remote, then select “Run Test”. 6. If your system does not pass the System Test, check any of these potential trouble areas: cabling, pointing the satellite dish, phone connection and access card. 7. If you continue to have problems, call DIRECTV Customer Service at 1-800-531-5000. 8. You should run a system test several times before concluding that there is a problem. Occasional fluctuations in the phone line or satellite signal can give temporary false reading Rich.

Bill, this is a link to the DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE MANUAL that should cover your unit. http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf You might want to clean the contacts on the lower control board, that is mentioned. Use a clean pencil eraser to clean the contacts, rubbing them lightly to remove any oxidation. This is a link to there Service Tip manual. Shorter version of the other manual. http://jular.ca/nv/data/pdf/26121_2852SM.PDF Rich.

Hi Bill, I posted this information about how a Gas / Electric refrigerator works. You might want to read it over. I will ponder your issue a little longer in the meantime. http://community.fmca.com/topic/3666-how-a-refrigerator-cooling-unit-works/?hl=%2Bhow+%2Brefrigerator+%2Bworks Rich. Bill, When you mention, on electric the unit remains cold. Do you mean warm not cooling? Is your refrigerator mounted on a slide or have a sidewall vent ? The problem could be the fans installed behind the refrigerator are not running. Could you post if it does have fans and a side vent or a roof style vent?

GrayGoose, Welcome to FMCA ! First start with the model of you friends box and yours. Then get the feed horn number off you friends dish and yours. Then compare there operating information. Is there a difference that you can see ? Post all the above information for the group and then someone can look into the more technical information and see if we can fine the problem. Rich.

windsomonaco, Take the measurements of the length, width and thickness of the mattress. The look around for a hidabed mattress that might fit the frame. Should be something on the market and with different firmness numbers. Rich

JC, from the information I have been reading, a refrigerator at 40 to 38 deg. is very good and a freezer at 0 deg. is the ideal temp. So the temperature information you posted is not bad at all. The internal air temperature will very widely when the door is opened, but the overall temp of the items inside remain at a given temperature longer, just because of there density. Did you get your readings from a remote temperature sensor? Rich.

Andy, have friend that has run Hankooks on his DP for the last 3 years and makes a long run from ID. to TX. and around the North west and has been happy with the way they handle the different conditions. Think the A12 series. Rich.

Ross, this is the information I have found to contact Dynomax. directly. For DynoMax Chassis information please call: (800) 654-0223 or (541) 998-3001 There is a limited amount of information on the frame and chassis in PDF files on line, but no electrical info. Rich.

JC, I think that Brett with the help of his contact covered the subject very well. Fundamentally everything remains the same and using the kit mentioned just replaces the OEM thermocouple. With the need to have a control to set the range of the replacement thermocouple so the original set of controls stay in the proper temperature range for the different models. It is tempting to just cut out the old part, it is quick. One does not have to fish the new part supplied from the manufacture up, through, around, and under anything. Should the part not be the problem you are back to square one. Should you not be able to perform the tests required, often it is best to have the service center check things. Rich.

JC, I looked over the information on the link real quick and it looks like the control that is added along with the thermocouple allows the original board to funtion normally. I will look and read it in more detail, but it appears that the internal control is used to calibrate the sensor. This would need to be done to achieve the same refrigerator temperatures that you presently get at a setting or settings. Rich.

I have had items and pieces of the dash removed to find the ground buses. Like looking for a needle in the rug and the rug was folded 5 times and stuffed into the area, with the connection / terminal under everything else, anchored to the firewall. I did find an LED flash light with a goose neck, that lets me get light into the confined area. Really helps to see things, because the head can be inserted into tight spots while the battery body is 18in. away and the neck is stiff enough to be bent or twisted in a way to keep the light concentrated in a small area, while one works with both hands; if one can get 2 hands in the space. That light and the one mounted on a headband has helped me a number of times. I found my goose neck light at a electrical supply house. I have not seen them at Lowe's or Home Depot. Hope the information helps just a little. Rich.

I keep thinking it was done to test ones patience, perseverance and flexibility. Also, to find out how often one wants to visit the Chiropractor !!! Building a compact and functional house that rolls down the road, with as much usable square footage as possible; Leaves very little space for wires and plumbing. You mentioned solid neutral wire, like the one(s) used to bond items and power panels to the ground or bonding point ? From a cost point, they tend to run them from the battery bay, inverter and transfer switch using the shortest path. Often running them behind draws and panels to the main fuse panels for the coach. For the chassis, stranded cables and along the frame rails. Rich.

Hi Curt, Welcome to FMCA, Think safety first. When you have to remember to turn things off and on manually, things can get dicey. Modifying things can get into some major wiring and plumbing issues. Having looked into the spring option has in a way pointed out the problem(s) of matching up an item to meet the required outcome. Could you post your Coach Make, Model and Year. for the group. Unknown whether you have a Gas or Diesel powered chassis. You might look at the Roadmaster Break Away Emergency Braking System 8600 as a solution or something like it. This system is proportional when the brakes are applied and is off when you are using the engine brake or engine compression. One needs to know that the system being used would not be voided by their insurer when or if modified. That could be a big issue should it come up a some point. That is why using a certified system is important. I would look at all the options and make a few phone calls, explaining your brake over heating and see what feedback you get. Look things over then you can make a better choice. Rich.

Hi Ross, not real familiar with the Dynomax Chassis. However, the brake light switch for most air brake system is part of the air control valve directly under the brake pedal on the under side of the coach. Rich.

Hi Don, It appears from all the information I have been able to find that the safety circuit design works, maybe too well; regarding current spikes. The board forces one to keep a close eye on the AC heater coil for possible arcing between the coil and the ammonia tank. The board will shut down the heater and control board should it sense a current spike above a preset level. This insures there is no power present that can cause an arc lasting long enough to burn a hole in the tank. Remember, should one reset the board and have it immediately re-fault, there is a STRONG possibility of arcing and a through check of the coil and tank area is required. Also, from what I have found regarding the fires reported, most if not all happen when the refrigerators are running on AC and not on LP. Maybe too well, is only because the current sensor is so sensitive. Better to low then not low enough! Note, there are power loggers that can be connected between the AC power socket and the refrigerator, at will create and store a log on current and voltage conditions; one can review and even print out a paper log if desired. Rich.

Moland, Welcome to FMCA !! When you changed the sensors around and the shift pattern changed, that would mean a defective sensor. So you are going to have one replaced at least. The transmission needs information from both to set up the proper shift points. Having the scan tool readouts would help narrow down the issue. Do you have a scan tool? some of the simpler ones will not always read all the sections of the control code from all the modules. I will look and see how transmission sensors and the speedometer signal are related. The OBD-2 codes would narrow things down faster because the shop manuals list each code and the procedure for checking and repairing. The list for improper shitting, lists Faulty speed sensor,refer to speed sensor DTC's Loose speed sensor, Loose or damaged speed gear and a number of others. The TCM needs all the sensors to be working to set the control solenoids for each gear. The Speedometer defaults to 0 if a malfunction, if there is a fault in the speed signal circuit. (PCM circuit) Rich.

Just got this information from another forum. Resetting the Safety Board Posted: 08/07/13 12:02pm Some Norcold information I thought I would share it. As of June 28, 2012, Norcold is no longer providing dealers with replacement recall kits (#634737) for failed temperature monitoring control modules. They have instead provided a troubleshooting tree and a reset procedure. The gist of the tree is 1) if the module light is blinking fast, it is not seeing the thermocouple, 2) if the module light is blinking slow, it is seeing an under voltage condition, 3) if the module light is always on, it has sensed an overheat condition. When the light is ON solid, the module is in what they term a "lockout state". To clear the lockout, they suggest using a magnetic screwdriver (they show the type with replaceable tips) held against the plastic cover above the light parallel to the ground for five seconds. If the module fails to reset, they suggest a stronger magnet. This seems to be their fix. They also have a new and differently configured 'Rev E' unit that has a locking connection for the thermocouple. This is a link to a Tech. bulletin from Newmar that might prove helpful. http://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env77NEWMAR/html/images/TSB395.pdf Rich.

Charlie, Sent you a private message regarding the switch. Thanks again Tom !! Rich.

The one item that has tipped the scales in favor of the newer members of the RVing family is the presents of forums like this one and some of us that have been owners for an extended time can pass on knowledge, information and possible sources of services and parts. Should you be new to this life stile, just ponder the though of truly being on your own before the internet, cellphones an the GPS system. One used maps and a compass, not a bad skill to have. I frequently thought of it as the modern day horse and buggy. The trails where paved, but the adventure was real. You must remember that our old coaches Where like the old Model T's. Got you where you wanted to go, but did not have all the complexities that are common place today. We did and can get by without our cell phones. My grand kids are lost without them. Hay, I try to by a car without power windows and with a old fashioned key. That is hard to do !!!! Is it really progress ?? Rich.

Thanks Tom, I will have to look over the prints and see what shows up! They do use a lot of fuses in there wiring !! Rich.

Charlie, The Buzzer on most of the coaches, goes off when there is an issue with Low Air, Low Coolant, High Water Temp., and low oil. So make sure everything is OK before disabling the circuit. It is not a switch as you know them, but a Diode array and the only way to silence it is to disconnect the power wire at the buzzer. Should you disable it then, one needs to be very aware of the status of the above mentioned items. Red wires at the switch may disable the buzzed, but do the brake lights still work. Any interruptions of the wiring can disable other circuits. Rich.

Charlie, Welcome to FMCA! Could you post the Year, Make, and Model of your coach for the group. Your post mentioned that you where reading 120lbs. are both gauges reading the same? Rich.

Tim, The window of a fully charged battery is rather narrow and its not only the voltage, but the current available. A new battery should read 12.5 volts, plus or minus .5 volts. They should read between 12.25 and 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery after setting 12 to 24 hrs. A hydrometer reading of 1.265 or greater at 80°F indicates a full charge. As the voltage readings drops so do the hydrometer readings and the current available. Look at this link to get information on 12 volt batteries and charge levels. http://www.mmbalmainauto.com.au/PDF/State_of_charge_12_volt_batteries.pdf Rich.

The problem of good service and mechanics from my prospective has gotten more difficult, as it has for many others. The complexity of automobiles and in all the modes of transportation, along with all the requirements to meet the ever increasing regulations, has changed the skill level and the cost of industry exponentially. When we travel, the combined skill sets and education of my domestic engineer and mine have served us well. The need for service facilities being diminished by skills learned while living a country life and limited resources trained both members of this team. There is / has been a drive nationally for everyone to get a collage degree. With the current cost of getting a 4 year degree many have to look at what they get for there dollar. With the income of those with good trade school skills and the shortage of carpenters,electricians, system controls, mechanics, mechanist, tool and die skills, model making, plumbers, heating and ventilation and others, with pay scales starting in the mid to upper five figures to the low six figures and the number of openings in the skilled trades making them more attractive; one can only hope the gap is narrowed. Rich.

Wallee, you might look for the control and cables at this link. I have always found it a little challenging to use, but a phone call might help. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?make=ford&year=1994&model=F-450%2BSUPER%2BDUTY&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B1994%2Bford&ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=6nhh2p58e2uhteaprkfd73b4b2 NAPA is also a good possibility. Rich.