dickandlois

The model you have will have a fuse / relay box located on the passenger side, generally just behind the rear axle. Look in the first pod behind the axle. There is often a panel covering it, not right out in plane sight. It contains fuses and relays that power the 7 pin socket. Left, Right turn signal, marker light power and brake lights are common. They can very from year to year. Gray cover has to be removed to see the fuses and relays that is installed by the chassis manufacture, but the coach builder moves them around depending on the coach model. There is a good chance that you have no documentation with the paperwork on the coach. One can call Spartan to get the location if all else fails. Hope this puts you into the correct general area. Rich.

phishphair, Welcome to FMCA ! As mentioned in the above post. The Make, Model, Chassis and Year of the coach makes a difference in the way they are wired, even using the same chassis. Post that information for the group when you get time. Rich.

Tom, That is a good story !! You are correct about Hyder, not much there but quiet and nature. Being born into a family of adventurous souls I have been so lucky to have flown in float Planes and old DC3's from Happy Valley, Labrador to the Brooks Range, Alaska. Flying with Sled Dogs, chickens, large LPG tanks and numerous other items tucked under the sets makes for some interesting conversation. Have you ever considered writing all of you stories in a book? Thanks for sharing the tale of the mail with us. !!! Rich.

Chuck, Looking for information regarding the vacuum system mentioned in the first 2 reply's. Ford uses plastic lines for the vacuum system and over time they can deteriorate. Plastic gets brittle over time and can also deform or melt should the temperature get to high. At the front Right of the engine, look for a block with White, Red and black lines connected to it. One of them goes to the Vacuum reservoir from the information I have been able to dig up. Should one of the vacuum lines fail the blower system would go the default Brett mentioned. With the loose of vacuum you should notice a difference in the performance of the engine. If you have access to a code reader, there should be a code set, that indicates loose of vacuum. If you have a check engine light, the loose of proper vacuum could be the cause of the check engine light. Rich.

I use a 110 volt line meter that plugs into any AC outlet. It reads the voltage and frequency alternately, so it works on shore power and when the generator is running I can check the frequency and voltage at a glance. The shore power reading at my 30 amp plug varies from 118 down to 112 volts during hot weather inside the coach. We tend to keep it at one of the kitchen outlets where it stands out and remove it when its in the way. They are sold at a number of locations in there electrical dept. Rich. A little absentminded !? I forgot to mention that at campgrounds it reads as low as 109, below that it alarms low voltage and has had readings of 121 volts on the high side.

rbarkleyii, Welcome to FMCA ! This link might help you find some information on HWH systems. http://www.hwhcorp.com/custserv3.html Rich.

Michael, look around and electronics store. Radio Shack or similar outlets. Magnetic reed switch(s) and see if one might work. Needs to be closed when the magnet is present, open when clear of the magnet. A little double sided tape will work wonders! Rich.

Monkeyrun, Take a look at the this thread on the forum. It might help to answer your question. http://community.fmca.com/topic/4277-washer-will-not-complete-cycle/?hl=%2Bwasher+%2Bdryer Rich.

Hi Donna, Welcome to FMCA. Your model year coach was manufactured when the 610 Model Computerized leveling system was in production. The 500 system was in production from 1988 to 1993. Start by checking all the fuses. The 600 system fuses are a little easier to check. Look at the back of the control box, there are 4-10 amp fuses, see if one of them is bad. There are 2 - 5 amp fuses and one 7.5 amp fuse. The 4 - 10 amp fuses are located in the top, left corner of the control box as you look at it from the rear. under the 9 pin connector, Note ! one of the fuses is just to the right of the other 3 and above the 3 wire connector. A blown fuse could indicate a problem in the left rear control valve, or wiring. Should the fuses all be good then one would check for a defective connection or broken wire to the left rear control valve. Should your coach have a 500 series, then the fuse are glass or bladed and located inside the control box / panel and may need to be removed form its mounting to get to the fuses. There was a major change in the way the systems where built between 500 and 600 models. This is a link to the manual for your coach and system information for your model and year. http://www.hwhcorp.com/countrycoach3.html Rich.

Denny, been drilling into the internet for some information. With the problem being more of an intermittent item. You might try this info copied from a web post. I decided to check it out and when I pulled the tranny ECU and disconnected the J1B and J1A plugs I found a slight bit of moisture and some oxidation in J1B (the plug which has the TPS inputs). I cleaned everything up and finished off with Electrical Contact Cleaner and dielectric grease. This is one answer to the same fault code you have. When the control modules do not talk to each other ( A little like me when I do not hear exactly what DW said) things can go south real fast. LOL. It is one of the less expensive things you can do. Just wonder with your helping in disaster areas if you have been in a real wet area recently. Rich.

Glad you missed all the gator parts !!! We ate one on the way North about 3 years ago. All we could do is slow down, no place to run to or hide. Did get the speed down some, running the middle lane and the Class A did take a hit. All the LP lines run along the passenger side, I took the gator hit on the left side, one of those new supper tires and it was 95% intact. The noise was something no one wants to hear. Fiberglass and some welded points where quickly disconnected as we moved to the side of the road. We where lucky with no broken air, LP or control systems. The car following got the worst of it as the gator exited from under the coach and quickly removed the front spoiler and right front fender. We where not pulling a toad or it could have been our car. Rich.

Brett, any chance of a data link issue regarding the 1939 link? Backbone ? Rich.

rkfunderburk, Welcome to FMCA ! I took the time to look at what Consumers Report had on the unit. Not enough data to score the unit. CR mentioned a price of $958. There where 2 reports 180 degrees apart. One loved the display and the ease of use. The second also loved the unit, bought it in 2007 and was trouble free, until the control board failed. Replaced the board and unit still did not work and at the time was beyond a reasonable repair. Not much info. to be found. Rich.

Hi Dennis, Welcome to FMCA ! Could you post the model and make of your jacks for the group. I did a little research and found that you coach has Atwood automatic electric jack system, is this correct ? This is a link to their brochure covering replacement parts. http://www.atwoodmobile.com/chassis-components/atwood-leveling-components-brochure.asp Is your coach on a Ford or Workhorse Chassis? Rich.

Thanks Hugger, The group as a whole makes the forum that much stronger and a wide information base. I had no clue to the engine model on your unit, knew it had to have some letters before a number and CH was as good as any to start with !! LOL Your offer was one I might take you up on, but just looks like the timing is off. Now to go look at the treasure you found !!!! Rich.

Thanks for your feedback John !!! Do you use more then one satellite? and or multiple feed horns? Rich.

Herman, Like Brett mentioned. The problem with paint is it very well could cause a signal degradation very similar to a cloudy day. Paint contents and thickness are some of the variables that have to be considered. Rich.

John, with one of the models below you can contact a dealer or supplier and ask for a price and shipping on the proper sized dome and color black. TracVision R6DX= 28x12in. TracVision R6ST+28x12in. TracVision R1DX=13.5X13in. TracVision R1ST=13.5x13in. TracVision A7=32in.x 5in. TracVision R5SL or TracVision R4SL= 32x12in. http://www.kvh.com/Support/Contact.aspx Try to contact a dealer for a part number for you model in the color black Google kvh tracvision dome purchase Rich.

Hi Larry, Look at this link. Look at pages 10 to 12 for wiring. Hope it is what you have, so the information below is relevant. If not list the model number and I will try to find some more info. They made finding this information a little challenging. LOL http://automotive.weldex.com/images/Automotive/Video/Rear_View_Backup-Monitors/WDRV-7063M/2-WDRV-7063M_Manual_VER9.pdf Rich. The three wires are to switch the cameras when you back up, or turn. You will need something like a time delay relay circuit connected to the ignition run circuit,with the proper fuse to supply voltage to the control circuit that switches your new monitor between side cameras. The back up signal can be supplied from the back up light circuit and and the manual switch on the monitor to keep the monitor connected to the rear view camera if you wish. Not that familiar with the circuits they use, to know if when you have a manual button selected the other ports can over ride the manual selection. If not and you want to be able to view the rear view camera an additional relay my need to be added to the turn signal control circuit. I have one source on file that I can send you information on In a PM. I do not want to act as an add agency for them, but the product will do what you need, if your coach did not come with a 3 camera system. The other key piece of information is the required control voltage to switch the monitor logic between inputs for the cameras, They(the cameras) will be on whenever the monitor is power up.

Hi John ! Welcome to FMCA ! Question painting the domes. Could you post the model Trac Vision Unit do you have? KVH, trackvision 13 or some other model? Rich.

c1low, Do you have a Challenger, Intruder, Ultrasport or Daybreak model coach? That information could help pin down the circuit. Manufactures can change some of the wiring around on different models made in the same year. The chassis is likely a F53, but the chassis specifications can very some depending on the coach layout. Rich.

Sounds Like a software issue, registration problem something is not present, like a code from Direct TV. Rich.

chloelly, Welcome to FMCA, Thought this article would be good information for members. http://www.heraldandnews.com/news/oregon/article_cb866dc2-1462-5391-8d3d-672db26b9b32.html Rich.

Garry, Try this link, and see if it helps answer your question. http://www.velvac.com/sites/default/files/resource-files/sb103_-_removal_and_replacement_of_2030_components.pdf Rich.

Garry, This is the information on your mirrors. You many need to contact Valvac regarding the proper repair kit if needed. Contact is via email. This info. should cover your mirrors, there should be a gasket behind the mirror bracket that keeps things sealed up. How that seal is applied and the type of material information many need to come from them. Model 2030 Mirror Part #715286-4 $923.68 Passenger Side - Chrome, Deluxe Mirror Head with Heated/Remote Controlled Flat Glass and Heated/Manual Convex Glass, 9" radius base, 14" Arm with Turn Signal Part #715285-4 $923.68 Driver Side - Chrome, Deluxe Mirror Head with Heated/Remote Controlled Flat Glass and Heated/Manual Convex Glass, 9" radius base, 14" Arm with Turn Signal Both mirrors look to be the same, but the base kits will be different for the Left and Right sides Rich. Service Parts: Part Name/Description Part # List Price Mirror Head: Chrome Deluxe Head with Heated/Remote Control Adjustable Flat Glass and Heated/Manually Adjustable Convex Glass (Right/Passenger Side) 714608 $364.73 Flat Glass Kit: Heated Flat Glass (8" x 8") and Retaining Clip for Attaching Glass to Housing NOTE: Glass includes integrated heating grid for both heated and non-heated applications. 709448 $35.50 Convex Glass Kit: Heated Convex Glass (8" x 4" with 12.5" ROC) and Retaining Clip for Attaching Glass to Housing NOTES: A convex repair kit is available if damage to the convex part of the mirror is more extensive than just glass breakage (see Part No. 709589 below). Glass includes integrated heating grid for both heated and non-heated applications. 709449 $36.35 Inner Support Plate and Pivot Clamp 709418-7 $66.63 Pivot Clamp (Half Moon) 709424-7 $4.60 Convex Repair Kit: Includes Heated Convex Glass (8" x 4"), Retaining Clip, Inner Housing and Actuator (Pivoting Mechanism) 709589 $70.73 Top Hat Add-On Convex Mirror - Chrome 715374 $97.48 Heated/Remote Switch Kit with Mounting Plate 747198 $114.13 Turn Signal Light (for Mirror Arm) 747551 $19.00 Set Screw Caps (3/Pkg.) and Mounting Screw Caps (4/Pkg.) - Chrome 748346 $15.20.