dickandlois

Hugger, This is a link to a Kohler service manual, but your model is not listed. By combining the two you might be able to get it powered up and working properly. http://campkahler.com/files/kohler-7cm21-rv-service-manual.pdf I will keep drilling for information over the next few days and see if I can turn over the right rock !!! Does the parts manual match your unit ? Can you post the Engine Series, Like CH-11 or something like that with the CH proceeding any numbers on the engine portion. Rich.

Cilow, Welcome to FMCA ! Not common for there to be a relay in the circuits you mentioned. Could you list the Ford chassis your coach is built on and Damon Model. In the meantime look in the area of the main fuse panel for the engine and instrument panel fuses. Fuse box should also house the headlight and other high current fuses. Rich.

Hi Hugger, Does this look like what you are looking for? http://www.ventageneradoreselectricos.es/WebRoot/StoreES3/Shops/62212964/4FD1/E981/6519/FAE9/87C5/C0A8/29B9/5D2A/ManualKohler-GeneradorCKM21-RV.pdf Rich

Eshantry, Thanks for the info. I have not found a free down load for the chassis to this point. This link will allow you to contact Ford to get the chassis wiring drawings directly from them. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q118.pdf I did forget to ask if the damaged wire is in the cab area, or somewhere else? and the model and make of the brake controller. You mentioned that the wire was burned, that would lead me to consider it being the 12 volt supply wire and the added load for the controller over heated that wire. To small a gauge wire. What is the color of the wire beyond the damaged area? So look at area for the other portion of the wire, Like a melted crimp connector. Using a meter look for a 12 volt source. Should you have the installation guide or even the operators manual, look and see what it, or they might offer in the way of wiring information. You could post the make and model of the brake controller for the group. Then I or others might be able to get enough information to track down some additional information. Regarding where to connection was made. Rich.

Eshantry, Welcome to FMCA ! Could you post the year of your chassis for the group ? I will see what information I can find and how close I can come to the year. Rich.

hodo, Welcome to FMCA ! Possible causes: -High fuel pressure - Low fuel pressure - Damaged FRP sensor - Excessive resistance in the circuit - Low or no fuel - Wiring harness connector of the fuel pressure sensor - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor - Vacuum leaks - Fuel http://engine-codes.com/p0191_ford.html#ixzz2cvUvsNW5 Rich.

Thanks for the reply regarding the fuel pump. What diesel unit caught you eye to replace the gas unit. Rich.

Thought I would try to answer the question of the Tow / Haul button for the Chev and Workhorse chassis from the service information on hand. The Owners manuals for the different chassis manufactures will spell out the operational change of the unit when one engages the button. The specifications for the drive-trains using the 4L80 or the Allison 1000 series transmissions and what happens internally are a little different. 4L80E series transmission Tow/Haul Mode, Displays Yes or No. This parameter indicates when the transmission is operating in the tow / haul mode. In the tow / haul mode, the PCM commands a different shift pattern that increases performance when towing or hauling. Shift quality and TCC scheduling are also affected during the Tow/Haul mode of operation. One will also notice that this transmission has a tendency to whine, do to the setup used in the planetary gears. The Allison transmission Tow / Haul mode Displays active/ inactive; This parameter indicates whether the driver has placed the vehicle in the Tow/Haul mode. When this parameter is active, the TCM modifies its shift strategy in order to provide more torque to the wheels during shifting. The buttons do the same thing, but different modules are involved. The Chassis manufactures of the P Series Chassis and the Workhorse do spec different transmissions when using the same engine like the 8.1 L GM series. The Ford RV Chassis using the V10 engine has a Tow / Haul setup from what I understand and most likely works in much the same way, changing the shift pattern and the way the TCC responds to the different switch setting. Everything regarding the change is controlled by software commands in modules. Rich. PCM = Power Train Control Module and it is Electrostatic sensitive !!!! TCC = Torque Convertor Control TCM= Transmission Control Module

Allegiance, No real secret, Just perseverance in most cases. Using multiple search engines and different word combinations. Just been using the internet over the years for fun and work related needs for information. Sent you a PM if you would like to respond. Rich.

Thought I would just post some information on trying to get an issue cleared up regarding the payment method we have used for years. Computer software only does what its programed to do !!! So if strange things happen should you banking institution or provider change operating systems. Keep challenging them. It starts with the need for 2 separate accounts in different parts of the country. The result of have one child that needs a little more help then most, just the way the lord made the person. Things worked just fine for years. Then our bank was closed and picked up by another institution. Everything remained the same except the routing number. Our cell provider could not get things to work on there new software, because there billing system changed about the same time and all our information was transferred across platforms. Calling a number of times to make the payments with a person other then the automatic or direct billing method would keep things working, but all attempts to speak with supervisors basically failed. Supervisors mentioned that if they had a problem; the IT department would have found it !!!! The issue was the routing number and we knew it, but they said that the number had been changed each time we called. The resolution was to have a person listen to me putting information into the payment engine and eavesdrop in on the line as the system refused my information, that this person had just entered into there system and said now it will work !!! Well it did not and for the first time in over 6 months a live person was mumbling on the other end, Looked into the information that was in there data base. Now it list XYZ as you account, OLD Number I said, then you routing is ABC, YES correct !! I will just reenter it and all will be fine. Minutes pass, IT will not change the data !!! Well if the data is incorrect and I try to pay, the payment request is returned, you turnoff our phones, charge an activation fee and a few others every time. Yes! we will correct the issue and watch as you make you payments over the next few mounts to see if things are working, What is your primary number? We will contact you if the issue continues. And my number is----- Could have changed to a new carrier, but change is hard for some people and turning off the phone can cause a case of confusion. One accounting data error in many thousands is like looking for that needle in the rug. The software looking for needed up dates needs to look at all the information, not just the routing number. My account number did not change so the software was refusing to allow the change. Did not meet the criteria to flag a change. Rich. Now to see if indeed its going to work !!!!

Bill, Welcome to FMCA! By chance is there an old FMCA oval attached to the Coach? Should there be one, post the number and FMCA members might know something or the main office should have a record of the owner and some other possible information. I see that there is a registration tag on the front. Could you find any information on who registered it last? an pass on that information. Rich.

Have you run the system test? Chapter 5 - Help & Troubleshooting The System Test allows you to run a basic diagnostics check on your DIRECTV Receiver. If you are experiencing any trouble with your receiver, run the system test. It will also allow you to get your access card and receiver ID numbers or to initiate diagnostic procedures on your digital satellite receiver. First make sure that: 1. All connections -- jacks, cables, etc. -- are in place correctly. See Chapter 4, “Connections for TV and Auxiliary Equipment” for more information. 2. There are batteries in the remote control, and they are working correctly. 3. The access card is inserted in the DIRECTV Receiver. Follow these steps to run the diagnostics system test on your DIRECTV Receiver: 1. Turn on your TV and the DIRECTV Receiver. 2. Slide the mode switch to the DIRECTV position to put the remote control in satellite receiver-controlling mode, then press MENU. 3. Select “Parental, Fav’s & Setup.” 4. Select “System Setup,” then “Info & Test.” 5. Select “Run System Test”. For Standard-Definition receivers, press GREEN on your remote, then select “Run Test”. 6. If your system does not pass the System Test, check any of these potential trouble areas: cabling, pointing the satellite dish, phone connection and access card. 7. If you continue to have problems, call DIRECTV Customer Service at 1-800-531-5000. 8. You should run a system test several times before concluding that there is a problem. Occasional fluctuations in the phone line or satellite signal can give temporary false reading Rich.

Bill, this is a link to the DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE MANUAL that should cover your unit. http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf You might want to clean the contacts on the lower control board, that is mentioned. Use a clean pencil eraser to clean the contacts, rubbing them lightly to remove any oxidation. This is a link to there Service Tip manual. Shorter version of the other manual. http://jular.ca/nv/data/pdf/26121_2852SM.PDF Rich.

Hi Bill, I posted this information about how a Gas / Electric refrigerator works. You might want to read it over. I will ponder your issue a little longer in the meantime. http://community.fmca.com/topic/3666-how-a-refrigerator-cooling-unit-works/?hl=%2Bhow+%2Brefrigerator+%2Bworks Rich. Bill, When you mention, on electric the unit remains cold. Do you mean warm not cooling? Is your refrigerator mounted on a slide or have a sidewall vent ? The problem could be the fans installed behind the refrigerator are not running. Could you post if it does have fans and a side vent or a roof style vent?

GrayGoose, Welcome to FMCA ! First start with the model of you friends box and yours. Then get the feed horn number off you friends dish and yours. Then compare there operating information. Is there a difference that you can see ? Post all the above information for the group and then someone can look into the more technical information and see if we can fine the problem. Rich.

windsomonaco, Take the measurements of the length, width and thickness of the mattress. The look around for a hidabed mattress that might fit the frame. Should be something on the market and with different firmness numbers. Rich

JC, from the information I have been reading, a refrigerator at 40 to 38 deg. is very good and a freezer at 0 deg. is the ideal temp. So the temperature information you posted is not bad at all. The internal air temperature will very widely when the door is opened, but the overall temp of the items inside remain at a given temperature longer, just because of there density. Did you get your readings from a remote temperature sensor? Rich.

Andy, have friend that has run Hankooks on his DP for the last 3 years and makes a long run from ID. to TX. and around the North west and has been happy with the way they handle the different conditions. Think the A12 series. Rich.

Ross, this is the information I have found to contact Dynomax. directly. For DynoMax Chassis information please call: (800) 654-0223 or (541) 998-3001 There is a limited amount of information on the frame and chassis in PDF files on line, but no electrical info. Rich.

JC, I think that Brett with the help of his contact covered the subject very well. Fundamentally everything remains the same and using the kit mentioned just replaces the OEM thermocouple. With the need to have a control to set the range of the replacement thermocouple so the original set of controls stay in the proper temperature range for the different models. It is tempting to just cut out the old part, it is quick. One does not have to fish the new part supplied from the manufacture up, through, around, and under anything. Should the part not be the problem you are back to square one. Should you not be able to perform the tests required, often it is best to have the service center check things. Rich.

JC, I looked over the information on the link real quick and it looks like the control that is added along with the thermocouple allows the original board to funtion normally. I will look and read it in more detail, but it appears that the internal control is used to calibrate the sensor. This would need to be done to achieve the same refrigerator temperatures that you presently get at a setting or settings. Rich.

I have had items and pieces of the dash removed to find the ground buses. Like looking for a needle in the rug and the rug was folded 5 times and stuffed into the area, with the connection / terminal under everything else, anchored to the firewall. I did find an LED flash light with a goose neck, that lets me get light into the confined area. Really helps to see things, because the head can be inserted into tight spots while the battery body is 18in. away and the neck is stiff enough to be bent or twisted in a way to keep the light concentrated in a small area, while one works with both hands; if one can get 2 hands in the space. That light and the one mounted on a headband has helped me a number of times. I found my goose neck light at a electrical supply house. I have not seen them at Lowe's or Home Depot. Hope the information helps just a little. Rich.

I keep thinking it was done to test ones patience, perseverance and flexibility. Also, to find out how often one wants to visit the Chiropractor !!! Building a compact and functional house that rolls down the road, with as much usable square footage as possible; Leaves very little space for wires and plumbing. You mentioned solid neutral wire, like the one(s) used to bond items and power panels to the ground or bonding point ? From a cost point, they tend to run them from the battery bay, inverter and transfer switch using the shortest path. Often running them behind draws and panels to the main fuse panels for the coach. For the chassis, stranded cables and along the frame rails. Rich.

Hi Curt, Welcome to FMCA, Think safety first. When you have to remember to turn things off and on manually, things can get dicey. Modifying things can get into some major wiring and plumbing issues. Having looked into the spring option has in a way pointed out the problem(s) of matching up an item to meet the required outcome. Could you post your Coach Make, Model and Year. for the group. Unknown whether you have a Gas or Diesel powered chassis. You might look at the Roadmaster Break Away Emergency Braking System 8600 as a solution or something like it. This system is proportional when the brakes are applied and is off when you are using the engine brake or engine compression. One needs to know that the system being used would not be voided by their insurer when or if modified. That could be a big issue should it come up a some point. That is why using a certified system is important. I would look at all the options and make a few phone calls, explaining your brake over heating and see what feedback you get. Look things over then you can make a better choice. Rich.

Hi Ross, not real familiar with the Dynomax Chassis. However, the brake light switch for most air brake system is part of the air control valve directly under the brake pedal on the under side of the coach. Rich.