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dickandlois

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Everything posted by dickandlois

  1. Hi Andy, Just got back North from the Lone Star State about 2 hrs. ago. The temperatures are still a little on the cool side this close to Canada. This link might lead you to what you need if your so inclined. Other then the wiring issue I hope the rest of the trip went well on the shake down run. http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?p=Q&ts=custom&w=rubber%20grommets&pw=rubber%20grumets&rt=spelling&isort=score&view=list Rich.
  2. Hi Scott, Welcome to FMCA !! Could you post the make and model information of the controls (thermostat and control circuit board) for your AC and Heating system for the group. Rich.
  3. Hi Papabill, Welcome to FMCA. In your part of the country, you might want to look at the Northeast Area for chapters that might be interesting to you. One can contact the chapters by looking up there listing in the Chapters by area section on the home page under chapters. I included one link as an example, but there are chapters that where formed to cover many different interests and geographic areas. http://www.fmca.com/index.php?option=com_fmcachaptersearch&view=list&Itemid=98 This link is to the Northeast Area chapters and it covers your part of the country. Hope this helps Rich.
  4. Hi Andy, By chance do you know or have a shop in the area with CNC machines. Using the mentioned part for a pattern to get the proper couture's and mounting hole, then having one made might be an option. The free trade agreements have opened up a new Pandora's box regarding suppliers and availability.
  5. From your information the items that fit, are improper balance; worn shocks with incorrect toe or camber settings. You might want to check the wheel bearings. Rich.
  6. Rvman, Welcome to FMCA! Did it go through as an electronic transfer by chance. This will not show up as a canceled or processed check, but will be deducted from your account. Did you bank indicate a withdrawal equal to the check amount ? Rich.
  7. I would be concerned about the Pump motor. You mentioned that the voltage on you volt meter dropped when you activated the front jack(s). I'm thinking that a low fluid level would not cause a greater then normal current load. The hydraulic pump will draw a good amount of current. You might be able to have the copilot energize the jacks, while you stand next to the motor and listen to the pump. Should it hum and not start to pump, then it could be the motor or pump is frozen up. The other possibility is a problem with the motor brushes. I did need to have them replaced on one of mine years ago. Rich.
  8. Chuck, could you post the model number of your coach ? WPD-27C, 30B, 33L or 35N. Looking at the Hot water bypass valve plumbing. Rich.
  9. This link should be helpful for all Winnebago Coach owners looking for Owners Manuals, Parts information and Diagrams of many of the Model Coaches. Open the main link and select a sub link to the area you are interested in. http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/ Rich.
  10. Sent you a personal message with some links. Hope that you can get a lead on the item in question. Your issue may need some modifications to resolve the issue, the motor in question is out of current production. Special order only from inquiries. Please keep the group informed. You will need the fan drive number(motor) off the assembly and if you could get the OEM number from someone that might help. Rich.
  11. Hi Roger, Welcome to FMCA ! From the heading on your post, it mentions, back bedroom. Do you have water from both the hot and cold at the other faucets ? With your FIN number of the coach you should be able to get the plumbing information right from Fleetwood. 1-800-322-8216 or visit www.fleetwoodrv.com Rich.
  12. Paul and Carol, Make a list of what you like, hobbies, scenery, food, cheeses, Museum's, Quilt Shops and any others you can come up with and we will see if we can fill up your bucket. Rich.
  13. Lyle, You might need to clean the pump head valves and use a little plumbers grease on the valves and sets. When they get a little dirty and gummed up they do not seal well, so the pressure and volume of water drops off. One can find new pump heads for many of the pumps. I fix most everything I can or at least try, but I do like to tinker with things more them most. Always figure that if it's not working, can not do to much harm; I might learn something or get lucky and fix it !!! Still a 5 year old at heart, just never got over asking why ? Rich.
  14. Our water pump pulses when the demand is below the pumps maximum flow rate. Rich.
  15. Hi Jeff, Welcome to FMCA. You can get the wiper blades from or through most auto parts locations. You can check prices by giving them the length of the blades in most cases. None of them are what I would call cheep and some work better the others. Kind of have to decide how often you will be driving in the rain. Remember to save the hardware from the old blades, many of them bolt on and the clips supplied by the manufacture do not include mounting items used on many of the coaches !!! Rich.
  16. Dave, Regarding the hose between the intake manifold and the Air Compressor, if its still OEM just replace it, they dry out over time and its is not that pricy. For its size it might be a little over priced, but if it does fail you will have an issue again with power and not many shops stock it !!! Fuel pressure is measured by placing a pressure gauge in the line(made for that purpose). There are two ways to check it. Opening the output side of the lift between the pump and the filter by connecting the gauge directly to the pump output line, or by installing a "T" connector in line and then connecting the gauge to the "T" output. I prefer this method because you can run the engine and watch the pressure level relative to engine load. When you open the fuel line you could loose system priming. Do you have a friend that works on there Diesel engines that might have the gauge and knowledge using it. I'm concerned about the exhaust leak, that is number 1 on the list, A Leak has a profound effect on your turbo boost pressure. Then check your fuel pressure. Turbo link LUBE.--- WD-40 evaporates / burns off quickly. PacBrake has a special high-temp lube for their exhaust brakes (http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=maintenance-4).There is also a product called Super Lube, you can look it up on line by just typing it into the search engine. Ace and True Value hardware stores carry it, but often do not stock it. They can special order it. Now it is a little pricy, but it works very well to keep the turbo link working freely and for other areas that need lubrication that tend to run hot because it has a high temperature rating. This is the recommended Lubrication from Cummins / Freightliner. They sell it in liquid form, not in a spray can. Hope this helps, Rich.
  17. Hi Dave, Like DD mentioned, check for leaks in the exhaust manifold area and all the hoses and connections between the turbo output and the intake manifold. One can use kids soap bubbles in a spray bottle the check for leaks in the air intake system. Also check the air input hose for the Air Compressor for a leak, they expand like a radiator hose and burst. Also check the output pressure of the fuel lift pump, you should read around 15lbs. if the pressure is less then 5 to 8 lbs. Change the lift pump, starving the engine for fuel and the low fuel rate can damage the injector pump !!!! Should your engine response be good, then you might have a torque convertor issue. At around 1700 rpm you should notice a definite increase in engine power as the turbo spools up. The exhaust leak could be a real issue, just how big is it ? and any leak would limit performance. The valves should not need adjustment on you model engine until after 150,000 miles. from the information published in their engine information. There is a TDC setting and an after TDC setting point to adjust the valve train. Do you have any hard starting issues? Rich. Additional information regarding the Cummings 8.3 engines. Beginning in 1998, Cummins introduced the ISC based off the earlier mechanical 8.3 C-series engine. The original ISC engine featured a Cummins Accumulator Pump System (CAPS). This CAPS pump was a computer controlled injection pump, with individual fuel lines to each injector. Prior to 1998 they where Mechanical / Post 1998 they incorporated the CAPS system. Engine serial number will list the fuel delivery system used. In 2003, Cummins released the updated ISC engine. Among other differences, the most significant was the change to the High Pressure Common Rail (HPCR) fuel system. The new fuel system eliminated the CAPS injection pump, relying on electronic controlled injectors to actuate fuel.
  18. Jonrgen, The maximum cut angle would be very close to 45 Deg. if my math is correct and it has been awhile since I have worked out this kind of problem. You could pull around a trailer in a large parking lot. As mentioned by DD and set up some cones or just use the lines panted in one to check your turning radius and the maximum distance / room needed to make a turn to the right. this is the tightest turn one needs to make. A left turn in most cases gives you the extra room of a left lane to make the swing. That being said the radius required for a 20 ft. trailer is more then one 10 ft. long. You did not give us the total length of your coach! I know that someone posted information regarding the turning radius information on one of the threads. I just can not remember what one it was. That helps one understand the mechanics of a turn. With the distance of the hitch point from the rear axle, makes a big difference in the distance required to make a turn. Just because you reach the 45deg. point much faster between the coach and the trailer and a longer trailer tongue increases the turn angle, but increases the radius covered by the trailer. What you are proposing is not something you would want to drive in an area with narrow streets. Rich.
  19. CWS, Should you get time could you take a picture of the old motor and list any information listed on it and send me a PM with the information? So glad you got things under control. The information was blocked at the server in the last day ! LOL Rich.
  20. Rudy, Thanks for the millage information, with it being that low one can pretty well eliminate any alternator issues. Sounds like Brett thoughts in regards to the coach being connected to shore power, generator running and the engine running at the same time; and the transfer switch changing from shore power to generator power and the alternator output being on line at or near the same time could have confused the ECM regarding the true voltage level of the 12 volt system. The main thing to check would be the water levels in the batteries, they can loose a considerable amount of water over time with the charger running. I often need to add some water about every 3 months, when the coach is connected to shore power. common for me to add between 3 and 4 quarts or around 3 L. Rich.
  21. Hi Rudy, And welcome to FMCA. Pretty Provence !!! I will start with a few questions. Have you checked the water level in all the batteries? Are they the original ones? How many miles on the coach? Have you checked the the voltage level of the batteries when the coach is not connected to shore power, when the generator is off and the coach engine is off ? What is the voltage level on the batteries when the engine is running? Are the cable connections clean on all the battery terminals and connections? And what is the voltage level on the batteries when the charger is running? Got to admit that the wiring on the Monaco coach's run me in circles at times. That should give all the members a good baseline of information to start solving your issue. Rich.
  22. vagabond, I have used Protect All / All surface cleaner on my black seals over the years. Your cloth will get very black as it removes the build out of oxidation. Rich.
  23. PhaetonDriver, As an after thought, could you post what your test drive consisted of? Thinking it might be as informative as the face to face regarding the DMV Rich.
  24. From that information I think there is a back pressure / Check valve in the cold input side at the water heater at is allowing the build up of pressure in the hot water tank to influence the cold water side of the pluming. When you mention changing the valve on the hot side of the water heater, was this the safety blow off valve. Material in the water can get caught in these check valves and build up over time rendering them ineffective. If I'm reading your information correctly, when you open the hot water first flow rate is good and then if you change to cold water the flow rate is good. The real catcher is, where would a problematic check valve be located that would affect the cold water flow equally at all the faucets. One would think it would be located at or near the water heater, but the flow of water from the faucets; should be greater and then drop if said valve is an issue.(temporarily high pressure on the cold side) ?? something to ponder on longer. Could the pressure valve on the hot side be in backwards? Rich.
  25. CWS, I found this Service manual information. Down load a copy and read it over, list a number of parts and pictures many of the cabling items used on different models. This is specific to a CareFree unit, but is a good reference. Also includes wiring information ! and a motor number in the parts list. http://www.rvawningsonline.com/manuals/eclipse/serviceman.pdf Edit---It has been blocked at the server in the last day or so !!! I will keep looking, but from the pictures the motors look a lot like power window motors.Maybe someone like NAPA could cross reference it, but the drive head or gearing could be different !!! Pages # 7 to 10 on the printed material cover Removing the Motors. The one item you MUST be careful with is removing the motor drive. One needs to hold / lock or pin the roller assemble in place while working on the awning. There is a assist spring used to assist the motor when retracting the Awning. Being a novice you might want to get some help with this repair. There are some videos on the sight that might help also. With help and knowing how to remove the motor, one should be able to rewind the awning. Use cable ties(some big ones) to hold it in place so you can move the coach if necessary, to get to a service location. Keep an eye on it if you need to drive any distance !!!! Hope this gets you out of a pickle. Rich.
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