dickandlois

Think I must be sleep walking just noticed your post and reply. No power to the fan means a bad fuse,size 25 to 30 amps. Location can very ,but most often in the panel under or next to the drivers station. Could be out side on the firewall in front of the driver side. The most common problem when the compressor runs and the fan does not start is a blown fuse and that is caused by a failed fan motor mounted on the condenser coil mounted out side the coach. Underneath the front or in the rear in the area of the radiator. If the compressor is working,a good trick is to place a fan in front of the the condenser coil and if the cooling increases, the fan circuit is the one to get working and that should be it. Regarding the high pressure reading getting to high. That could mean the system is over charged. Question, gave out some information,but forgot to ask if the compressor starts when you engage the AC?? How in the world did the person charge the system if the compressor does not start?>?> Could you read the resistance of the fan motor? The other thing is, do you have a battery charger? you could remover the fan motor and power it up that way,if it does not run,thinking its gone bad. Then the trick is to fine the fuse or relay that powers the circuit. and find a new fan or motor. Rich.

Could you post the make of your slide out control system. Power gear or what? Also any information on the controls like model numbers, push button or key to operate the slide out. This might help pin down the mechanical parts causing the problem. Rich.

Hi Stan, Your coach is new enough to have a sub.fuse box that some of the chassis manufactures are now installing. The real problem is its not often mentioned in the information supplied with the owners packet. These fuse box / relay panels are OEM specific and can be located anywhere. The most common location is in one of the rear cargo pods. This is one style: http://www.cooperind...31000-32000.pdf This is a different version: http://www1.cooperbu...870f1f2519d.pdf You might give Spartan a call to ask about this type of panel. Think they would have installed it as this is a chassis wiring item. They may not have a clue as to where the coach builder attached it, but at least it might help you get an idea of what to look for and they might say its in the rear or front of the chassis wiring. There is a tool called a circuit tracer that you could use if you could find one. It puts a tone on the circuits ( like the center connection of the backup light) then using the receiver one can fallow the tone to its relay point or the fuse location. Internet service and installers use them to fined lost circuits in among all those wires. Not sure where the Reverse light switch circuit connection is for your model Transmission. Hope this helps. Rich.

One could get the unit recharged. The first issue would be to make sure the compressor is working. That would be the most expensive part of the system. Then you would need to find a HAVC shop with the proper materials to tap into the AC lines and install access ports on the high and low side lines. The rest would be just the same as charging any other AC system. Most use R22. This is a link to a manual for your listed Coleman unit. http://www.rvcomfort.com/pdf_documents/1976323_copy8.pdf Look over the information and let me know if there are any other questions I might be able to answer. Rich.

Barb, The only one that comes to mind after reading your post is to slowly load the generator and not have both AC's turned on at the same time when the generator is started. This puts a very heavy load on the generator, in turn the belts will SLIP and heat up. Think that you might get your trips in if you watch the load placed on the generator. Then when you get home and some time have the belts replaced. The other problem the high current load causes, is it can damage the contacts on the load relay when it engages. This adds another repair and expense. Rich.

The manual does mention that the ATC circuit protection fuse will blow if the batteries are connected wrong,that is the fuse I was referring to in my last post. Most shops are not real familiar with circuits using Inverters. It is real easy to reverse a connection or two. You might share the information in the manual with the Shop that did the work, so they can learn from this issue. Rich.

Good write up! From your notes, it sounds like the problem is in the coach battery circuit. Check and make sure that a 12 volt or ground cable is not loose or hiding behind the batteries or fallen back behind things and is hiding along the frame rail. There should be a fuse, it is generally flat and mounted to the chassis in a mounted block, that supplies power to and from the coach batteries. If you have 2 / 6 volt deep cycle batteries it will be in the neighborhood of 150 / 200 amps. With 4 batteries it will be around 200 / 250 amps. I mention this because you have 12 volts from everything but the coach batteries and no 12 volts to the batteries from any other 12 volt source. Could be a transfer relay,but I'm leaning towards a fuse. Did the link I sent for the Charger/Inverter match yours? Rich.

Thom ! Think its time to visit the person that sold the coach to you. Could you mention the Model and Year of the coach? Although, you did not say if you purchased from a dealer or individual. You should have a person from the dealership or the seller go over operation and setup of the equipment on the coach. With only 2800 miles on it and if indeed the mirrors are damaged, one would think that it would be covered under a warranty. A dealer should have a person that explains how things work and to go over the information that you need to read an what manuals cover the different equipment and systems on the coach. Rich.

Sounds like there are attachment points that are loose (Striped mounting holes) or the latches are defective or out of adjustment. Rich.

Looking into the issue, I found that your chassis air ride height control system might be the problem. Should the adjustment(s) be out of range this could be causing the pressure problem in the air system. A loose control link might also be the problem. You might want to have the system checked. Rich.

What chassis is under your Coach. Your coach should have a Green gauge and a Red gauge. The green gauge should be reading the the primary supply that feeds air to the brakes and the red system supplies the air ride system. Could you fill in what gauge is reading the 75 Lbs. Rich.

Don, If you could post the Model and Year of your coach it helps pin down things a little easier. Rich.

Do you have the manual for the unit? This is a link to a manual, think it has to be close if not the exact one for your charger/inverter. http://www.progressi...9200_Manual.pdf Rich.

Just a thought, if the rest of the system is operating maybe the fan on the evaporator is bad. Have you tested it to see if it is OK. if the compressor is working,thinking that the same relay might power the cooling fan. Rich.

Sweet, When I carry spare parts, never seem to need them. But if I leave them home-- that is when something will fail !!! Rich.

Herman, that might work for the open range county,but some live where the locals like life in the quiet lane !! Some of the boys have street dragsters that are far from quiet. 900 to 1000 HP gas engines have a sound of there own. Rich.

Ken, is there room for a elbow at the side input / end of a muffler. Then one could transition down to the 3in. size ? Then use some 3in. flex exhaust pipe ? Rich

I have experienced the problem on my coach with a Cummins. The problem was a bad connection at the ECM that was corroded. The connector was separated, the terminals where cleaned on the connector and socket on the ECM. The only problem since that issue has been when the alternator regulator has failed, but that has just caused a surging. The speed increased and decreased when the cruise was engaged. Speed up / slowdown repeatedly. The other items to check are the pickup for the Speedometer and Tachometer along with the crank sensor, \but one generally has a starting and idle issue when the crank sensor circuit fails. Rich.

Ken, The part number on the one used on my freightliner is 20507A-20. Its about 36 to 37in. long with 4in in and out pipe dimensions. The input is slotted so the input can be collapsed down on to a pipe elbow and the output is 4in. and the pipe extension slides over the muffler connection. There is a transition from the 3in. to 4in. at a section of exhaust pipe near the Turbo. The space between them is connected by a length of flexible 4in. exhaust pipe. Rich.

John, Look at this thread. Its o the FMCA page. The third list of suppliers list 4 locations / venders. they do list part numbers for many of the window seals / tracks. Rich.

Check and see that all the jumper cables for the 6 volt batteries are connected in series. Positive on one to Negative on the other and read 12 volts across the remaining positive and negative terminals of the sets. You now have 2 -- 12 volt pairs Then check the jumpers that connect the 12 volt pairs in parallel are correct. Negative on one pair to Negative on the other pair. Then check the positive side. It is very easy to get them wrong. Then check the Positive cables feeding the chassis circuits are correct and then check all the ground cables are all connected. Should you get some sparks when connecting the grounds, something is wrong. You may get a little spark because of something drawing a little current. Its that hot sizzling ark that means something is not right. The clicking sound is most likely coming from the contractor in the coach 12 volt circuit. it should stay energized if things are connected properly. Check the 12 volt connections between the chassis and coach batteries are correct. There are allot of connections and its real easy to mix them up... Rich.

dso4cw2md, Here is a link to a user manual. It covers the items Brett mentioned and has contact information. Many of there refrigerators have a thermocouple that lets the cooling unit know when cooling is required in the refrigerator portion of the unit. I did not find any reference to the sensor, but know there is one in the repair list of parts. http://www.dometic.c...ba0f165f1.fodoc Rich.

Hi William, See you have not been logged on for a few days, Hope you are doing OK !! Rich.

Bruce, Thanks for the resent Private Message. The information regarding the repair was interesting. I have been looking over some technical information and still have a problem getting my simple mind around it. Just keep an eye on things and keep in contact. Rich.

JerryJo, Here is the link to the recalls for you year coach and chassis. Scroll down the page to the proper year and model. The Southwind info. is in the right column. http://www.arfc.org/rvs/fleetwood/southwind/recalls.aspx Hope this helps, Rich