dickandlois

Well, after looking for the issue that was shutting down the Diesel fuel supply I spotted a sick 100A Auto reset relay. Weather and time had taken its toll on this one located close to the starter relay and it supplies all the power to the dash and ignition key circuits. While I was at it I went over all the connections, relays and relay sockets to make sure they where clean and replaced all the relays, but one at this time, because no one can tell me what it does. Its not on any of the wiring drawings or wire harness drawings I have. The Freightliner help desk listed off all the ones I had found and said they had no clue as to what the other one I found controls. Kind of thinking it is in the ABS system. That module is relatively close to the relay, but the wiring information places it at or near the interment panel. So more time is needed looking at the harness and looking at or for circuit wire numbers to see what circuit goes to the relay. LOL. Pictures of what a Circuit breaker in not supposed to look like. Failed primary feed ignition Circuit breaker.pdf Rich.

I decided to replace the entry door lock and dead bolt system on the Coach as it was acting up at times. The door handle was catching a little and to get it to rotate to open the door it needed to be wiggled just a little to position the handle so it would rotate freely. When it catches, I have a feeling one could brake off one of the pins that allow the handle to rotate and release the spring loaded door latch. Note, as has been mentioned by some members of the Forum, if you find your self locked inside it is difficult to remove the inside screws. It helps to have a right angle Phillips screw driver to remove the one screw tucked behind the screen door frame. The real problem is releasing the latch from the door frame pin. A locksmith might be able to drill a hole in the proper location to get enough pressure on the right spot to force the locking spring to release. This is not a simple issue. So my thought is to be proactive and just replace item when there is any indication of a possible problem no mater how small it may be ! One sure wants the door to open in a emergency. NOTE! The New external portion of the door lock is not lubricated well. So you should oil the handle pivot pin points, the Lock Set(There was no oil inside the tumbler assembly)and the latching paul that is not removed and is reused and always order a new exterior seal. The part is not shipped with mounting screws !!! The second item that needs to be addressed. The exterior portion is not really threaded well, as the unit can be shipped to countries where Metric is common or the US where English threads are the standard. Mine where 8 X 32 screws and are reused. I called the factory and all the items needed where in stock. They will ask for some numbers off the OEM part and tell you where they are located. Not a bad job if one is a little handy. TriMark Service & Replacement Parts 1970 N. Linn Ave., Whse L New Hampton, IA 50659 Toll Free: 1-800-431-8616 Fax: 641-394-1515 Email: trimarkparts@trimarkcorp.com TriMark RV door locks Complete Catalog link http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zPlatFormList.aspx?intcategoryid=89&topcategoryid=175&scategoryid=176 Page link for RV door hardware http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zPlatform.aspx?platformid=22&categoryid=89 Distributor link http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/Distributor.aspx http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/index.aspx www.austinhardware.com There Hardware outlet locations by state. Rich.

Old Beaver, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The maximum length of braded line you mentioned is very common on most RV's Have you tried to contact Gillig? They might have some information on file. http://www.gillig.com/contact Safety Recall link. http://www.carsafetyreference.com/gillig-motorhome-chassis-1991/ Service Manuals NOTE ! When I tried to down load the information I got a warning from my security software ! So one might ask about the issue when talking to Gillig ! http://www.download-provider.org/download-k:Gillig Chassis Motorhome Service Manuals.html?aff.id=7582 Should Gillig clear this issue please let me know and I will edit out the warning ! Thanks. Rich

Carl, Your issue sure sounds like a data link connection issue ! The Key point is the Data cable connecting the ECM to the TCM. The cables are often exposed to the road elements and ANY corrosion in the connectors will cause corruption in the data. I posted some info of a possible fix here. Rich.

Could you post the model of the Engine and if it has a rear or side cooling. Rich.

Joe, I tend to agree, If the engine was shutdown in 5 min. or so to get off the road, it is hard to imagine a blown head gasket or any major damage. Trish did not mention, hot to limp mode to off the road and shutting down. Rich.

Don, Just got to ask if they checked ALL the data cable connections for the J1939 system. If they get contaminated the signal gets noisy and things go south fast. I know of a post or 2 where there was a defective cable / connection between the ECM and TCM that caused a similar problem. Rich.

Trish, The Green fluid is coolant and the yellow colored fluid is most likely Hydraulic fluid. You mentioned a 5 min. time frame. Was that the length of time you noticed the cooling and steering problem to when you got off the road and shutdown the engine ? Rich.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Is your oil dip stick the steel cable stile that runs from the engine to a point outside the engine compartment? What Model year and Engine model do you have? Rich.

There are a number of intermittent electrical problems that show up over time due to contamination. The top contender for signal issues are the older Bosch CAN bus, J1500 series circuits and the Newer J1900 series Data bus systems. Both are used so the Different Control modules used in the Injector pumps, ECM, TCM and other low level controls can talk to each other. Plus any 5 volt or 12 volt wiring exposed to harsh environmental conditions or where they are exposed to moisture or dissimilar material reaction. Thought I would post information on 2 products that do help reduce the problem. The first one is more forgiving Number 847- MG Chemicals Carbon Conductive Assembly Paste is an electrically conductive, non-bleeding grease for improving electrical connections between non-moving surfaces and parts. It was designed to work in the same manner as a heat sink grease, only electrically conductive. It is also good for globbing on bus-bars and other applications where a flowable grease is undesirable. It is non-bleeding and stays where you put it, so short circuits are less of a concern. As well, it inhibits corrosion, has a wide operating temperature range, a long service life, and does not contain silicone. Number 8463 - Silver Conductive Grease. This one is rather expensive and Because 8463 is designed to lubricate, it may migrate and cause shorts when used incorrectly. MG Chemicals Silver Conductive Grease is a higher end conductive silicone grease formulated for improving electrical connections between sliding surfaces and parts. It provides superior lubrication, inhibits corrosion, and repels humidity. It can also act as a gasket in EMI shielding applications. Links. http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/greases-and-lubricants/conductive-greases/carbon-conductive-assembly-paste-847 http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/greases-and-lubricants/conductive-greases/silver-conductive-grease-8463 Rich. Added 10-17-2016 Relay and connector pin Intermittent operation issues.pdf

Don. Links to manuals and electrical wiring. http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/operatormanuals2004.php http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm Body system wiring pick your specific model year and body setup Winnebago often wires the slide out system to an area under the bed. Some fuse panels in the same area Rich.

Bad disconnect switch, is it an add on manual switch located right I the battery compartment? That is not always a bad thing and they are not the most expensive thing to replace ! Rich.

Kurt, you posted-I have to disengage the 12VDC house switch and reset it to get the 12VDC back up ! Are you referring to the Coach battery or chassis batteries when you're getting the 12 volts back up ? How old are the chassis / engine batteries and the House / coach batteries? What is the water level like in the batteries if they are wet cells? What are the voltage readings for the Chassis and Coach batteries after the coach has been disconnected from shore power for 1/2 to 1 Hr.? Rich.

Hi Joe, The Science of heat transfer is covered in Science and Physic's gets into that area. There are software programs that allow one to calculate it and change a wide range of variables. Got into it just a little, have a physics major in the family that thinks it is kind of Cool. Way out of my pay scale. After doing some more research I am reading the manifolds crack from cooling down too quickly. TRUE- When you weld cast-iron it needs to be heated to a predetermined level, welded and cooled slowly to prevent cracking. This is the benefit of the "manifold blanket" and exhaust wrap products. I can understand that in cooler temperatures but what about a hot summer day in the south pulling a hill? The Blanket would reduce the hear loose rate and therefore reduce the chances of cracking, but again there are a number of variables. Since the turbocharger is lubricated with lube oil from the crank case, if it gets too hot that will cook off, or is it flowing too fast through the turbo. This item raises some more interesting variables. Rate of flow at a given pressure through a specified closed system design. Flow rate can be influenced by, pressure, temperature, length of the path, size of the rifling, number of bends, Viscosity and the chemistry of the oil. Brain drain !! You might be able to construct test fixture using the exact components of the Turbo system from the high pressure feed point to return low pressure point. A means of setting variable pressure levels, oil an turbo temperatures and different oils. Construct a grid to plot the flow rate of a given amount of oil and vary the temperature and pressure and see what the numbers say. I tend to run the engine long enough to allow the manifold temp to drop at an RPM that maintains an oil pressure of 30 psi, until that pressure is present at the engine preset idle speed. Rich.

Carl, thought you would like this picture. Remember to look over your shoulder or a close eye on the photographer if your looking the wrong way ! Enjoy Rich. A fishing trip.docx

Take a look under the kitchen sink - clear in the back. Look for an inline water filter. They are common and are also Charcoal based filter. Rich.

Tom, Do you have the owners manual for the unit? A number of them have an auto calibration mode. Do you own a Smart Phone with compass screen to compare location and direction? This link might help get you started. https://www.safety-devices.com/how-to-calibrate-your-digital-compass-a-20.html The other option is there are IC's That one can buy and build one from scratch. Just noticed that you mentioned the screen is now blank. Some models are not real shock resistant, so you could have a voltage supply wire / connection broken at the screen or on the small circuit board. Might need a small or large magnifier and tiny tools. Rich.

Joe, the kit looks like its for a newer twin turbo Dodge set up and with the engine turned 180deg. Air intake and cooling line routing might make for an interesting install on a Coach. The other item that might concern me is - its all ready a tight fit for the cool air ducting I installed to extend my alternator life. Alternator designed max temperature is like 275deg F and the exhaust manifold runs less then 8 inches underneath it at 1000deg. Not the best setup. Add in the hot side of the CAC input and turbo proximity and you have a vary hot environment. Not sure the thermodynamics of the system and the restricted air flow would make for a long exhaust and turbo life. Rich. Note! kind of looks like your going to be making like a duck for the next 2 days. Wet here, but we really need the water !!!

Byron, a lot better service then one often gets at the road service centers. AND you can not beat the price. Rich.

Kay, Thanks for the info. I would not have been on the same page as a possible source. Rich.

Carl, looks like the site is back UP!

AJ, If you have the standard set of switches under the dash that let you read ECM codes. One can grab one or more codes if you just turn the key to the run position - press the idle speed switch and read the flash code of the read stop engine light. like 3 pause 5 pause 1 and it will repeat if that is the only code. The speed up down switch will also allow you to go back and forth to repeat a code. One needs to be a contortionist at times to get to the switches. Rich.

Dave, We have all been there !!! THE key is that you where willing to step outside what might be your comfort zone. Way to go - the new knowledge will serve you well down the road. I love looking into issues and always learn, so it is a win win item. Note I got time to look at the yellow wiring circuit and it does need 12 volts from a 6 amp fuse. Was the fuse bad in the newly discovered fuse box? Rich.

Power step voltage is supplied by the chassis batteries, not the coach set and to be honest I think your setup has just the one set of batteries. Sent a copy of the fuse and relay panels. Did the new step kit supply an inline fuse holder ?. Can you measure any power at the control board or from the board output to the motor? The new kit should have a control board / module with a current limiter circuit. So its kind of a mystery. Could you post the make and model information of the new unit ? Rich.

Dave, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. power steps are added by the chassis builder. There is a strong possibility that there is an inline fuse or 2. The ignition inline fuse most often is outside and close to the drivers side and is lashed to the primary wiring bundle. They can be difficult to find. When you turn on the ignition does the step move / do you have a switch at the entry that keeps the steps open when you are parked? both of those lines have a 20 amp fuse in most cases. Need to see if I have any wiring files covering the Oshkosh chassis. Rich. Oshkosh fuse panel.pdf