dickandlois

See if this information matches you slide. https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/pg-82-S0347.pdf Rich.

David, those nylon inserts like square holes, and with stainless steel screws keep the rust away. If I remember correctly, Toolmakers are pretty good at making square holes ! Rich.

Glad that you had a friend following you down the road and offered his view of the coach, they are not supposed to run at an angle. Coaches do drive nice when they are going down the road, when the rear wheels are inline with the front ones. Did they work with you with some warranty? Rich.

racoleman, Who built the slide out mechanism used and do you have any model number on the system? Rich.

Don, You might look like the connection(s) in these links. Looks like the OEM connection is NLA, but there is an option that should work if this is what your wire ends look like. NOTE! installing these connections properly requires the proper tools - so you might need to find some assistance replacing the ends. Also remember to take pictures or make some good notes regarding where each wire is installed / relative to the physical orientation of the connection. Note-2 The wiper motor housing requires a good chassis ground to operate properly. Does you coach use 2 Motors ? Link 1- what could be the OEM part. http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0009910400_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml&channel=Products Link-2 A substitute part ? http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0009503041_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml Link-3 The wire terminals used with housing. http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0008520072_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US This might solve the wire end issue, but if the circuit board has issues; then it a different ballgame. Rich. As mentioned is a previous post DigiKey is a possible supplier !

Sherry, Welcome to the Forum ! Now that sound like you have a fail solenoid! replied to you engine post. Thought there was the possibility of a failed relay or starter when you mentioned everything worked, but the coach would not start. When the solenoid fails, you loose power to the fuel pump and it quiets for lack of fuel. Rich.

Sherry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! I did read your post on the electrical thread, but I'm not well versed with your chassis, but you cleared up some items. You mentioned that everything works normal when the key is turned on (Correct) ? If that is the case, then there is the possibility of a bad relay that is energized when you turn the key to the start position. This relay is energized only in start and is located in the rear of the coach close to the starter. If you are traveling with a companion - have that person turn the key to start position and count 1000-1 release the key repeat at1000-2 and keep repeating while the other person listens for a clicking sound. No click then this relay has an open with on the small terminal(s) If you hear a click or if while you are performing the test and the engine tries to start. The relay is failing-this relay sends power to the starter solenoid. and this solenoid engages the starter. Should you hear a loud click and the engine does not start. Then the starter motor has most likely failed. Check out the items listed and post any and all results. Now, if items do not work when you turn the key only to the run position, it id the run solenoid that has failed. Rich.

Don, You might get some additional information on your VIP steering wheel from the chassis builder. They install the steering wheels and the wiring harness. Because the harness connection needs to match the control circuit boards, they should be able to provide some information on the board part number an that information might lead to the connection in question and its matting connector part number or supplier. When the module shorted out, Did you loose all the VIP functions or just the wipers ? From what I have found and your description of the connector in question. Things look like you have a Spartan Chassis. There interconnects an the one for the power to the wipers look close to what you mentioned. and it looks like it is the power feed. Also, with the board shorting out. according to information, there is a 4 amp fuse that powers the board and a 3 amp fuse in the dimmer circuit. The Question now for me is did someone replace a fuse with a larger one to keep things working ? Also! the main connector that controls the wiper motor(s) is a 12 wire connection and it does carry 12 volts. The logic circuits use 12 volts in this case, if things are wired from what I'm seeing. The connector in question is the power and Data link connection between the steering wheel and control module. If there was an issue with the Control board and a fuse at a higher current rating was installed. Replacing the board connection may not clear all the problems, if there is a wiper motor with problems. There could be relays or chips that have failed on the controller module. The thing is there could be something of the board in another location that caused fuses to fail. The Chassis builder wiring for some applications are recommended to install circuit beakers in the 12 volt circuits that are powered on and off by the logic control circuits. Rich.

You'r to fast for me Brett !! LOL Rich.

Don, I scanned my files, thought I had some information covering the system and the wiring. OK, Got the information on the system. Link. http://www.vipwheels.com/sites/default/files/uploads/pdfs/TROUBLESHOOT.pdf Tech support link. this might help if one of the pictures match your board layout. http://www.vipwheels.com/technical-support Now to narrow down one connector part.Think you are looking for a wire to board connector so this link might picture what you are looking for in a 4 pin configuration. http://www.directindustry.com/industrial-manufacturer/wire-to-board-connector-117701.html Rich.

Thanks Don. Is there a part number or any numbers on the board. your information narrows things down. Rich.

Don, The connectors can be supplied by a number of suppliers. They come in a number of different styles. There are literally 1000's of different ones with different size pins. First need to know what they look like. flat one row of pins or sockets, you might have 2 rows stacked, how many connections / wires. There could be open spaces where there are no connections just blank space(s). So any information you can supply as Brett mentioned will help narrow down what you need. Got to ask why you asked for the connectors. Did they get damaged or did the wires get cut or damaged ? Could you attach a picture or 2 to your post? Rich.

Mike, Disconnect the coach from shore power, then check and see if the inverter is running. You will have 120 volts on 2 of the ac power circuits circuits. Most often one circuit powers the bathroom, dining area and the driver's area of the coach. The other powers the kitchen and the outlets for the entertainment equipment. If you do have power then turn off the inverter by pressing the charge button.That should turn off the inverter. Before reconnecting to shore power measure the battery voltage of the coach / house batteries. What are you reading. Then after 15 min. measure them again. Did the voltage drop and by how much? Rich.

Gary, The fact that the engines a mounted backwards and in a totally different space, there are items mounted on them that are in totally different locations then in a Dodge truck. The AC compressor will be at the back and the mounting of the unit can be different as well as the alternator and the working space can be considerably tighter. Then there is the air compressor that is not on a Dodge and the location of the power steering pump. Then things can change for different model years and floor plans. Rich.

Lyle, glad that it was relatively easy fix. Getting to the interior of the blower box is not easy, but the repair did not cost much other then your time. Considering what a shop bill would have been, not a bad payday in away!!! Rich.

Roy, glad you found the problem and it was a simple repair. The problem you located is quite common an very often just cleaning the edge connector and some CRC contact cleaner will solve problems. With connections being out where they are exposed to the weather, it helps to put some connect grease on the connections. Rich.

That job sounds like one of those, "Are You Kidding ME" ones. I was sure hoping that they where located behind the starter. Neither Ohmed the same as the new ones and one had a bulge on the magnet face. Interesting that the 2 new parts and one of the old ones had a bulge. other then that did the 4th. one look the same. Just really hope there is not something different about that one in regards to signal output. When you got the new part(s) from Cummins they both had the same number. Been thinking from your first thought regarding there location it would not be to bad a job. Had the bottom metal seal replaced on my compressor, because it was leaking. Glad the shop I contacted had them in stock, but never had to pull the compressor and power steering stack. If the sensors are located in the same place on my series engine. It will be just about as tight an I know that I do not have a 2 in. open end wrench in the toolbox. Does your setup have a filter in the hydraulic system? wonder if you might just want to change it. Good job. They do not make it easy to work on the engines once the coach is built. Rich.

Joe, Number one becomes number two if reversed. So the engine issue would match the issues described for 190-2. Electronic circuit boards are not smart enough to know the difference, they just read the signals supplied. Number 1 is TDC and #2 if off a few degrees. If they get reversed and are located behind the starter would lead to R and R of the starter just to reverse the connections. The devil is in the details !!! LOL Rich.

Bounder 1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Took a look at the information you posted regarding Tech Tips on Lithium batteries. Thanks Rich.

Wheel chocks . Just have to mention that there have been times when coach owners have disconnected a trailer or tow dolly with out blocking the wheels and things have rolled away and when this happens in a campground it can be come an expensive error. Good to have them to test the air brake system is working properly if you suspect something is wrong, better to check an know that things are working then have a problem on the road.. Rich.

They make the laws confusing, Total length of X. Means what ? The maximum length of one structure with wheels? NC list Motorhome max. as 45 feet and a trailer length of 40 feet. Do they infer that you can have a combined length of 85 feet if non of the sections is no more then 60 feet? N.C lists more about the width then how they interpret total length. A 53 foot commercial trailer and a 20+ ft. tractor would exceed 60 feet. and you do not see them on the side of the road for being to long. Rich.

Good to know you have located them. Removing the starter in not too bad of a job. That indicates the magnets that trigger the speed and engine crank location are attached to the flywheel. Measure the sensor resistance of the old ones and compare the readings to the new ones. I'm thinking they will read about the same unless one of the coils opened or maybe shorted! Having two sensors is where the 190-1 and 190-2 comes from. A #1 reading would defiantly indicate the one that is bad. Hope they also made it so one cannot reverse the connections between the 2. Wonder how many degrees the sensors are separated? to make sure that the intake and exhaust valves are both closed on compression. Code 190-1(0) Engine Crankshaft speed / position Data valid,but above nominal operation range. Most serve level. Affect--Fuel injection disabled until engine speed drops below the over speed limit. Code 190-2 Engine Crankshaft speed / location data erratic, Intermittent or Incorrect. Affect--Engine can run rough. Possibly poor starting. Engine runs using backup speed sensor. Engine power is reduced. Rich.

Think your though of checking the connection(s) is a good starting point. The item that has me a little confused is that you where driving in the rain and no indication of a check engine code. Remove connection, clean, check weather seals, look for any oxidation, add some electrical grease and reconnect. The only thing I can think of is the sensor is located were water could run down into the area when stopped. Rich.

Do you have a Caps fuel supply or CHPR sytem on the engine-- yours is close to the transition line. The 190 code is not showing up in my files, Did you read it using the manual method switches or a code reader ? Rich.

A Little more information and something to think about regarding Windows 10 ! Remember nothing is really free. You might like to read the information on this link. http://www.forbes.com/sites/gordonkelly/2016/04/29/free-windows-10-cost-expensive-secret/?utm_campaign=yahootix&partner=yahootix#7e0467c7403f Rich.