dickandlois

I go along with happyhiker's thought. The mixing valves get a lime build up over time and then the flow rate drops. Rich.

Bill, Timing is everything. When the Clear coat is peeling should the entire area be cleaned of all clear coat or just the spots that are peeling? I keep thinking that the new coat over the remaining area will just over time brake loose for lack of a good surface bond. Rich.

The link and information is no longer good. So I re posted some old info and up dated this thread. Rich.

capbarnet, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! When Workhorse went out of business the web sight went also. I Think I have some of the information on file. Could you post what chassis year you are looking for and then I will look in my old files to see if anything might help. Rich.

Point taken, Yes that area of the doghouse is HOT! That is why I added the Outside Air duct work to cool the Alternator. There is always something to add to the pot ! Thanks Brett, Fair winds ! Rich.

Thanks John ! Will see if I can find a PDF link for your EMS system and pass it along. Did not expect the 900 system in your coach ! Rich. This might help ! http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/michaelreush/2012-04-28_033135_intelletic_ems_service_manual.pdf Still has the fuse, thought I would just attach a link that pictures it on one of the interchangeable boards Think the original boards had a 3 amp fuse. But this one has a 5 amp fuse Fuse is pictured in the 3rd. picture from the left. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intellitec-50-Amp-smart-EMS-energy-management-system-upgrade-kit-model-760-NEW-/310795813757 Interesting ! Looked around some more and this board does have a 3 amp fuse. So one might think that the circuit might be pron to blowing the fuse at times. http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTELLITEC-50-AMP-MODEL-960-SMART-EMS-BOARD-00-00767-200-/162065465765?hash=item25bbdac1a5

With the Silverleaf running the the intake temperatures jump from 125deg. on top of the mountain to 195 real fast to over 225 if I do not give the exhaust the off signal. Then things cool down fast into the 120deg. range Now, if you have any thoughts, please pass them on. Engine has a Mechanical Bosh 44 injector pump, it just might be allowing a small amount of fuel into the engine. The thing never stops running. Rich.

CCMSM! Not really an issue, when the cruise is set and you are going down hill you need turn off the cruise (just need to tap the brakes and it will engage. ON a steep down hill grade, the CAC(intercooler) temperature can go up and you might get a yellow check engine light so keep applying enough braking so retarder is not doing all the work keeping ones speed down. Rich.

John. If you can post the model of your EMS. think it will be a model 750 or 800. What is the size of your Shore power ? 30 or 50 amp? They are wired differently for 50 and 30 amp shore power> Rich.

John, Do you have the manual for the EMS in your coach? There is a 3 amp fuse located on the board, if the fuse fails then you will loose power. Need 12 volts to activate relays 1 an 2 on the circuit board. Rich.

Woodbe - Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Yes, remember the the transmission will shift down if wind or rate of climb requires more power for the drive train. Allison transmission works different then other transmissions. Rich.

John, the fact that everything works when the generator is running and you have only the 2 - 120 volt circuits when on Shore power. Points to a failed relay or switching circuit that should switch between shore and generator power. Did you power up the generator with a heavy load on the 120 volt supply - Like having the AC units turned on. This kind of load can weld relay contacts together, that would prevent the relay from switching back to shore power../ The prim suspect in this case is the Automatic Transfer Relay. When connected to shore Power do you get a current reading on the EMS panel? Did you get a Current reading when on gen power? Should have because everything worked. The Manual I have indicates the problem is in the change over relay if one source of 120 volts is missing. With all line power disconnected measure the resistance across the transfer relay- ) ohms ? Then measure the resistance reading from the Shore power plug and the terminals of the ATS. That test confirms the continuity of the cable and the connections between the plug and the repay. 50 amp shore power, check both L-1 and L-2 If that checks and you are using a 30 A to 50 A adapter, there is a good chance the Adapter is defective. Rich.

DD look into a software program that you can load into your apple unit that acts like a translator, for program language. There are some ,but I,m not up to speed regarding the software language Power Spec uses and the required Microsoft drive. Rich.

John, Did you turn off the Salesman switch next to the entryway? A 458 inverter / charger has 2-120 volt output circuits. that power the entertainment system and circuits in the kitchen and bathroom. turning off the inverter will power down those items. Check all the 120 volt circuit brakes mainly the main breakers in the AC power panels. Rich.

Herman, You will need to confer with the DW to get clarification on Magnificent and Wisdom. Thanks for the thought regarding ether or both. At times both are lacking though. Thanks Tom, Been on the receiving end during some conversations between both friends and customers when I was running a business and there is no way to totally prevent it when one or both parties have had less then a perfect day. Rich.

Herman, Simple fix just need to use ***** and some of the members will Know. Rich.

The issue is being politically correct. If any word or phrase can be interpenetrated in more then one way block it. Really like my Nick Name, but it falls into the not politically correct column ! The fact that the issue came up at the meet the members of the Forum gathering, Some members Know me by my nick name and not Rich or Richard because of the moniker name and my badge name where different. So I think I will ask to be known as **** (This is going to be xed out) at the next Rally. Rich.

The hard ride, could be caused by running heavy. There are Stiff rubber snubbers located between the frame and the axles. one at each corner. If the load forces the springs to flex to far. The frame is setting on those rubbers and it will ride ruff. That also reduces the affect of the sway bars. Just a note regarding weighing the coach if you do not have the 4 corner weights, stop the coach when the front axle on the scales, Get the weight. Then driver the coach forward and stop, get the total weight. Drive the front off the scales and get the rear weight. Rich.

Jim, Thanks for offering Jim the flow chart(S) Been looking over some wiring for the start circuit, but they are weak in regards to the transmission power circuits. Jim's model year fits into the time when fusable links where used on the starter solenoid circuit. They can open and have no indication of failing. Still sounds like there is no power to the shift panel though. Rich.

John, Have you weighed the coach when loaded ? Add the total weight of the family members to the total if you have weighed it with out everyone on board. Expand on the motion you are experiencing - Side to side, up and down or other. Soft ride or rough ride. Tire pressures you are running and the maximum load listed from the GVWR sticker for front and rear axles. The GVWR sticker is often located inside the drivers door area, though that information can be located elsewhere, but it should be in the coach somewhere. Rich.

George, One needs a test fixture to really test the boards. Did you try and cycle the water heater with the door open, to see if the water temp reached the upper limit? Air flow difference with the door open can result in a difference then with it closed. Higher heat in the heating tube will increase air flow and if the flow is restricted by the door being closed. The flame can go out before reaching the cutoff temperature. Check the thermal sensors that are mounted on the tank are sung still making good contact with the tank. They use a sticky tape to hold them tight to the surface and it is a one time use item, so do not pull the sensors loose / off. Sure is starting to sound like the control board is acting up. Sounds like you have done all the test. If you have run these tests then it sounds like its a control board. If you do not have the full manual go to this link. Page 14 covers things well ! http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwood-Water-Heater-Service.pdf Perform the following steps with POWER OFF to water heater. Good connections at all the Lettered Terminals. 3. Manual reset ECO high limit switch-A should be depressed. Check for continuity between TERMINAL B and TERMINAL C of ECO. 4. Check for continuity between TERMINAL D and TERMINAL E of thermostat. If there is none, replace thermostat. 5. If water is insufficiently hot, insure thermostat is flush with tank. 6. Verify a good wire connection between ECO TERMINAL-C and heating element TERMINAL-F. Correct if necessary. 7. Check for continuity between heating element TERMINAL-F and TERMINAL-G. If none, element is bad and should be replaced. Do not over-tighten self-tapping screws when installing new element. 8. There should NOT BE CONTINUITY between element screw-G and flange of element. If there is, element has shorted. Element should be replaced. 9. Verify ground connection Rich.

Bill, Interesting, but aircraft an FAA rules are quite different. Maintenance is must stricter. Found this link and tried to make as close of a comparison between a helicopter and a coach. Helicopter and coaches can experience close to the same conditions because of where they operators might be landing them and the environment. Like salt water, mud, water spray and others.. Regarding the product it is basically asphalt and one could buy that is a spray can and as long as the area covered with it an no openings that allow acid to contact the metal all should be good. http://www.helicoptermaintenancemagazine.com/article/aircraft-battery-maintenance-101 No mention of coating the area and many batteries used in aircraft are enclosed to a greater extent then those mounted in coaches. Rich.

Thanks Jim, but I do have the drawings for some of the Monaco chassis on file! Like Brett another members of the forum, we try to pass on information that we hope is helpful. No two coaches are wired exactly the same. Floor plans, options and model year can necessitate changes. Then throw in availability and or new or updated items and it makes for an interesting challenge finding some issues. Hope you get your start issue resolved!! Keep probing the group with any questions or information and there is an answer out there. The strong point of the forum is its members and the total knowledge and experience. Plus a willingness to share. Rich. I have used a probe with a bulb in the probe to test circuits and have even made up the same idea with clips and enough wire to place a bulb out side the coach that I can see if it lights when a circuit is activated from the drivers location when working alone!

Ron, I have not run across anything that mentions Acid Resistant , but these paints are tough. I have used The first one to protect chassis areas exposed to harsh environments. Not hard to apply, but the cleanup can be. I often use disposable application items. Moisture is the activator and the material has a short shelf life once opened and exposed to air, like purring it in to an application pan or container. Although more expensive I purchase the smallest quantity to do the job! Read the information. http://magnetpaints.com/ http://www.rhinoliningsindustrial.com/containment/ http://www.por15.com/ Hope this helps ! Rich. A second thought-I have installed Battery trays under the series 31 and the Gulf cart batteries. These trays confine the acid mixture and it is discharged out a hole in the bottom. Not perfect, but it keeps the acid away from the a large portion of the supporting structure.

George, The Fact that you can smell propane is an indicator, that the ignition board is a possibility. Before you go there, check and see if there is a difference of how long the flame continues to burn when the access door is open compared to if it is closed. Does the unit run until the units shuts down because the water temp setting is hot enough? When the door is open? The fact that the burner starts and then quits, restarts and the burner sound changes is an indication that the air to fuel mixture is off. Have you moved the air mixture tube while working on the unit? You mentioned that the flame was blue, but there is a large section of the flame that is yellow. Indication of insignificant air. The yellow portion should be as small as it can be with the access door closed. Hard to see, but the heater should sound more like it does when the door is open. The orifice should be as close to perpendicular as possible with the air mixture tube. It is nominal for the draft to change as the tube temperature rises, but if the area of yellow colored flame increases. There is not enough air entering the firebox. Air to fuel mixture is set to low. The spark gap set at the proper spacing to insure a good spark and the ignition point is centered over the gas/air mixture path. The ignition board will only try to fire 3 times and then go into a safe mode that requires turning off the circuit and turning it back on. Post your findings. As Tom mentioned- the thermacouple will cool if the flame turns yellow and the airflow is restricted or bad therm thermacouple. Note: if you see soot building up at the discharge area, the air to fuel mixture is rich, open the mixing slot just a little and keep trying different settings and it is a narrow band that will operate properly. Rich.