dickandlois

Dave, I have a Cummins engine from around the same build date. The mechanical parts of the engines do not really have a problem with Bio fuels. Yes B-05 is tolerated and as the percentage Bio increases it does have some adverse affects on rubber fuel lines and seals used in the outboard mounted items that come in direct contact with the fuel, but the first item that failed for me was the Fuel lift pump. It did not like the ULSD fuel and the seals failed. The second issue regarding bio is it can be a breeding ground for algae, so one needs to add a biocide to the keep it from forming. A real issue if the coach sets for extended periods of time. When you are driving longer distances and adding fuel it is not as critical as the fuel suppliers filter the fuel. The third issue is the fact that Bio has higher lubricity and will loosen materials in that have been building up the fuel system, this issue will in most cases require the replacement of fuel filters on a different schedule unit the system is purged of items that plug filters. So carry spares. Rich.

Brett, Question, the lights in the shift panel he is seeing? Could they be the lighting back lights and not the shift button illuminating? One of the possible replacement Latching Relays has been discontinued. I did some editing of my post on this thread. original post was 18th. of January 2013. Posted 18 Jan 2013 · Report post There are 2 ways the relays where wired. These are latching relays and the switch is a momentary rocking switch that toggles them off an on. The difference in the wiring is where the fuse link(s) is connected. The links are gray in color and outwardly show no sign of being open. Both fuse links need to be good and both relays need to energize to get the system on line. There should be a Purple wire from the switch to the relay, at the switch there will be a white wire going to ground and the other end of the Purple wire. Purple wire to center connection of the SW.#2-- White wire to connection #1 Is this what you see ? The switch does not need to be locked to keep the circuit active ! The lock is to prevent from inadvertently turning off the 12 volt system. 12 Volts should be present on 1 side of each relay, these are high current circuits with large fuses so do not short out these cables. One gets a large spark if you do !!!! and the fusses are expensive and special. Not found at the auto supply store. The relay part number listed is KIB 16615055 Momentary, Location Rear Run Box. Page # 196 Monaco prints. Edit: 1-18-2013 second edit, 5-14-2016 The latching relay is an effective battery disconnect device. The LR9806 is a single-pulse latching relay. It only requires a short "pulse" of voltage to activate or deactivate the relay. Since the LR9806 does not require constant voltage, it is one less load on the battery. Discontinued. Link to a replacement for the LR9806 http://rvpowerpartsplus.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=360 This might help. Rich.

Tom, I have a copilot that is always correcting, the lane and when to turn left or right. LOL The thought of smart maps and self drive vehicles, kind of scare me !!! Rich.

Dave, Thanks for your service. Looks like you load made a nice safe drop, not like the 3 hummers that slipped out of there rigging's and hit allot harder. Someone was on the wrong end of that conversation !! Rich.

RA Coleman, This link might be helpful in regards to the floor height, but I have not found any drawings that give the center to center points. https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/pg-82-S0379.pdf Having said that I know there is a file that has some pictures and some reference information to setting the slide rail gear strip in the proper location to relative to the round drive gears. I can keep looking if that might help. If your system has this stile of mechanical drive, the key is to have the gear rail centered under each of the round drive gears (as close as possible) over the entire running distance of the slide. You might build a 3 X 4 X 5 right angle triangle to keep the rails square to slide wall mounting point. Rich.

OK, Let me look around my files and see what else I might have ! Rich.

See if this information matches you slide. https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/pg-82-S0347.pdf Rich.

David, those nylon inserts like square holes, and with stainless steel screws keep the rust away. If I remember correctly, Toolmakers are pretty good at making square holes ! Rich.

Glad that you had a friend following you down the road and offered his view of the coach, they are not supposed to run at an angle. Coaches do drive nice when they are going down the road, when the rear wheels are inline with the front ones. Did they work with you with some warranty? Rich.

racoleman, Who built the slide out mechanism used and do you have any model number on the system? Rich.

Don, You might look like the connection(s) in these links. Looks like the OEM connection is NLA, but there is an option that should work if this is what your wire ends look like. NOTE! installing these connections properly requires the proper tools - so you might need to find some assistance replacing the ends. Also remember to take pictures or make some good notes regarding where each wire is installed / relative to the physical orientation of the connection. Note-2 The wiper motor housing requires a good chassis ground to operate properly. Does you coach use 2 Motors ? Link 1- what could be the OEM part. http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0009910400_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml&channel=Products Link-2 A substitute part ? http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0009503041_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml Link-3 The wire terminals used with housing. http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0008520072_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US This might solve the wire end issue, but if the circuit board has issues; then it a different ballgame. Rich. As mentioned is a previous post DigiKey is a possible supplier !

Sherry, Welcome to the Forum ! Now that sound like you have a fail solenoid! replied to you engine post. Thought there was the possibility of a failed relay or starter when you mentioned everything worked, but the coach would not start. When the solenoid fails, you loose power to the fuel pump and it quiets for lack of fuel. Rich.

Sherry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! I did read your post on the electrical thread, but I'm not well versed with your chassis, but you cleared up some items. You mentioned that everything works normal when the key is turned on (Correct) ? If that is the case, then there is the possibility of a bad relay that is energized when you turn the key to the start position. This relay is energized only in start and is located in the rear of the coach close to the starter. If you are traveling with a companion - have that person turn the key to start position and count 1000-1 release the key repeat at1000-2 and keep repeating while the other person listens for a clicking sound. No click then this relay has an open with on the small terminal(s) If you hear a click or if while you are performing the test and the engine tries to start. The relay is failing-this relay sends power to the starter solenoid. and this solenoid engages the starter. Should you hear a loud click and the engine does not start. Then the starter motor has most likely failed. Check out the items listed and post any and all results. Now, if items do not work when you turn the key only to the run position, it id the run solenoid that has failed. Rich.

Don, You might get some additional information on your VIP steering wheel from the chassis builder. They install the steering wheels and the wiring harness. Because the harness connection needs to match the control circuit boards, they should be able to provide some information on the board part number an that information might lead to the connection in question and its matting connector part number or supplier. When the module shorted out, Did you loose all the VIP functions or just the wipers ? From what I have found and your description of the connector in question. Things look like you have a Spartan Chassis. There interconnects an the one for the power to the wipers look close to what you mentioned. and it looks like it is the power feed. Also, with the board shorting out. according to information, there is a 4 amp fuse that powers the board and a 3 amp fuse in the dimmer circuit. The Question now for me is did someone replace a fuse with a larger one to keep things working ? Also! the main connector that controls the wiper motor(s) is a 12 wire connection and it does carry 12 volts. The logic circuits use 12 volts in this case, if things are wired from what I'm seeing. The connector in question is the power and Data link connection between the steering wheel and control module. If there was an issue with the Control board and a fuse at a higher current rating was installed. Replacing the board connection may not clear all the problems, if there is a wiper motor with problems. There could be relays or chips that have failed on the controller module. The thing is there could be something of the board in another location that caused fuses to fail. The Chassis builder wiring for some applications are recommended to install circuit beakers in the 12 volt circuits that are powered on and off by the logic control circuits. Rich.

You'r to fast for me Brett !! LOL Rich.

Don, I scanned my files, thought I had some information covering the system and the wiring. OK, Got the information on the system. Link. http://www.vipwheels.com/sites/default/files/uploads/pdfs/TROUBLESHOOT.pdf Tech support link. this might help if one of the pictures match your board layout. http://www.vipwheels.com/technical-support Now to narrow down one connector part.Think you are looking for a wire to board connector so this link might picture what you are looking for in a 4 pin configuration. http://www.directindustry.com/industrial-manufacturer/wire-to-board-connector-117701.html Rich.

Thanks Don. Is there a part number or any numbers on the board. your information narrows things down. Rich.

Don, The connectors can be supplied by a number of suppliers. They come in a number of different styles. There are literally 1000's of different ones with different size pins. First need to know what they look like. flat one row of pins or sockets, you might have 2 rows stacked, how many connections / wires. There could be open spaces where there are no connections just blank space(s). So any information you can supply as Brett mentioned will help narrow down what you need. Got to ask why you asked for the connectors. Did they get damaged or did the wires get cut or damaged ? Could you attach a picture or 2 to your post? Rich.

Mike, Disconnect the coach from shore power, then check and see if the inverter is running. You will have 120 volts on 2 of the ac power circuits circuits. Most often one circuit powers the bathroom, dining area and the driver's area of the coach. The other powers the kitchen and the outlets for the entertainment equipment. If you do have power then turn off the inverter by pressing the charge button.That should turn off the inverter. Before reconnecting to shore power measure the battery voltage of the coach / house batteries. What are you reading. Then after 15 min. measure them again. Did the voltage drop and by how much? Rich.

Microsoft operating software frustration After having a second computer start acting up that has been working. Windows 7 update KB3133977 Got into the system because we left a door open. Note, This is a different unit that does not have all the information and drivers I use with the original computer loaded with different programs. Microsoft has gone and changed some portions of the older operating from optional to recommended . Starting to think they are getting or are to big a player. Second, Contacted VMSpc to see if they offer drivers that can be used on open source platform(s) and the answer was not at this time. So if one is considering using there software and is not a fan of Windows 10. The option might be Scan Gauge D. Rich. Microsoft Warns Windows 7 Has A Serious Problem Earlier this year Microsoft warned users that Windows 7 has serious problems. I dismissed its claims as a desperate attempt to shift copies of Windows 10 (and I still do), but now Microsoft has warned of a new serious Windows 7 problem that is very real – even though it makes no sense whatsoever… In short: Microsoft has made a seemingly small yet completely bizarre tweak to Windows Update on Windows 7 and confirmed it is crippling many users’ PCs. The tweak? It switched the status of Windows 7 update KB3133977 from ‘Optional’ to ‘Recommended’. The bizarre part? Despite acknowledging the problems, Microsoft knew they would occur in advance and it has no plans to do anything about it. Ok, let’s put some meat on these bones. PCs That Suddenly Won’t Start It all center’s around Asus motherboards. Now 27 years old, Asus is one of the largest PC component makers and supplies motherboards to many of the world’s biggest PC makers. Recently it enabled Secure Boot in UEFI on all its motherboards. This wasn’t a problem for older PCs because Windows 7 didn’t support Secure Boot, that is until KB3133977 came along in March and enabled it. Initially the fallout was small. Asus confirmed the problem, Microsoft confirmed the problem. But the best news was KB3133977 was an optional Windows 7 update so it had to be manually installed to take effect. The solution was simple: just steer clear of KB3133977 (aka do nothing) and you’d be fine. Then last month – for some bizarre reason – Microsoft made KB3133977 a ‘Recommended’ update. The result was every user running Windows 7 and default Windows Update settings (the vast majority) would find the update now installed automatically. And then everyone with an Asus motherboard was hit. A Global Problem As InfoWorld’s Windows expert Woody Leonhard notes “I’m now seeing problems reported from all over the globe about Windows 7 machines that suddenly won’t boot”. Affected machines simply show a red box which says: All of which does nothing to pinpoint the problem or solve it for those without a second secured boot device. In short: you’d be screwed. The Good News And Staying Safe The good news is Asus has now issued a workaround to get PCs booting up again. Furthermore Asus must take some of the blame for not reacting faster when KB3133977 presented a potential landmine and issuing new updates to its motherboards. How do you know if you have an Asus motherboard in your Windows 7 PC? Go to: All Programs > Accessories > System Tools and select System Information. This will list your PC’s components, including the motherboard. One downside: some major PC makers like Dell and HP rebrand the motherboard as the computer’s model number. In which case you should do a web search on your model or call the manufacturer directly. The Bad News And What Comes Next As for the bad news? It’s Microsoft’s reaction. On the plus side, Microsoft did update the support document for KB3133977 with a warning which states: “After you install update 3133977 on a Windows 7 x64-based system that includes an Asus-based main board, the system does not start”. But Microsoft also uses the document an opportunity to promote upgrades to Windows 10: Microsoft has also done nothing to modify KB3133977 or release a new patch so users with Asus motherboards don’t run into this problem in the first place. Furthermore, at the time of publishing, KB3133977 remains a ‘Recommended’ in Windows Update for Windows 7. Needless to say, conspiracy theorists will have a ball seeing it as yet another new way Microsoft can push users to Windows 10. Especially with upgrade rates slowing in April. This in itself is remarkable given the increasing number of heavy handed and devious ways Microsoft has been pushing Windows 10 onto Windows 7 and Windows 8 users. Regardless, the message is clear: life is going to become increasingly uncomfortable for Windows 7 users from now on. Whether they like it or not. Additional information 5-9-2016 While some PC users updated to Windows 10 the moment it became available, others will stick with earlier versions for as long as possible. For the horde still clinging on to Windows 7, there’s a new glitch to keep an eye out for — but it only seems to affect certain Asus motherboards. An update titled KB3133977 can potentially trigger a “secure boot violation” during startup, according to a report from The Register. This prevents the computer from loading its OS, rendering it rather useless. According to Asus, the problem stems from the fact that the affected motherboards have a feature called Secure Boot enabled by default. This is not supported by Windows 7, but the KB3133977 update tricks the boards into thinking that it is, which causes a conflict once the system tries to initialize its OS. KB3133977 has been available for some time, but was previously listed as an optional update by Microsoft. Its status was changed to recommended last week, which means it was installed automatically for many users via Windows Update, in some cases disabling their systems until a fix can be found.

Gary, The fact that the engines a mounted backwards and in a totally different space, there are items mounted on them that are in totally different locations then in a Dodge truck. The AC compressor will be at the back and the mounting of the unit can be different as well as the alternator and the working space can be considerably tighter. Then there is the air compressor that is not on a Dodge and the location of the power steering pump. Then things can change for different model years and floor plans. Rich.

Lyle, glad that it was relatively easy fix. Getting to the interior of the blower box is not easy, but the repair did not cost much other then your time. Considering what a shop bill would have been, not a bad payday in away!!! Rich.

Roy, glad you found the problem and it was a simple repair. The problem you located is quite common an very often just cleaning the edge connector and some CRC contact cleaner will solve problems. With connections being out where they are exposed to the weather, it helps to put some connect grease on the connections. Rich.

That job sounds like one of those, "Are You Kidding ME" ones. I was sure hoping that they where located behind the starter. Neither Ohmed the same as the new ones and one had a bulge on the magnet face. Interesting that the 2 new parts and one of the old ones had a bulge. other then that did the 4th. one look the same. Just really hope there is not something different about that one in regards to signal output. When you got the new part(s) from Cummins they both had the same number. Been thinking from your first thought regarding there location it would not be to bad a job. Had the bottom metal seal replaced on my compressor, because it was leaking. Glad the shop I contacted had them in stock, but never had to pull the compressor and power steering stack. If the sensors are located in the same place on my series engine. It will be just about as tight an I know that I do not have a 2 in. open end wrench in the toolbox. Does your setup have a filter in the hydraulic system? wonder if you might just want to change it. Good job. They do not make it easy to work on the engines once the coach is built. Rich.

Joe, Number one becomes number two if reversed. So the engine issue would match the issues described for 190-2. Electronic circuit boards are not smart enough to know the difference, they just read the signals supplied. Number 1 is TDC and #2 if off a few degrees. If they get reversed and are located behind the starter would lead to R and R of the starter just to reverse the connections. The devil is in the details !!! LOL Rich.