dickandlois

jodan0586, These are the contact numbers for Freightliner Custom Chassis FCCC SERVICE & TRAINING CENTER 103 Campus Drive Gaffney, SC 29341 P: 855-253-0421 F: 864-206-8755 Hours: Monday-Friday, 8am to 4:30pm EST CUSTOMER SUPPORT CENTER This is the number to call for chassis wiring PDF files and questions regarding issues. 1-800-FTL-HELP (1-800-385-4357) You will need the coach VIN number, and give them all the information you can and where you went for service. Try to get everyone on the same page and hopefully that will help speed up a resolution. Rich. http://www.freightlinerchassis.com/contact-us/#contact-us-2

The one that comes to mind is BD Diesel. they have both a gauge system and a pressure switch that goes in the fuel line going to the injector pump that closes when the fuel pressure drops below 5psi or higher depending on the fueling system. I like the pressure switch and LED setup. A red LED lights-or flashes when the pressure drops below (5psi. in my case) When it starts to wink at me I know it is time to replace fuel filters or the lift pump. Rich. ECM units tend to measure flow rate not pressure !

Thanks for your reply! the location of the problem form your information can very some depending on model and year. Like Wayne mentioned one needs to look around and check connections. You might be able to get some wiring PDF files for your chassis from Freightliner. You will need the VIN number. Also check with Fleetwood, you will need the FIN number for the coach. there is a plate with that information is often outside on the drives side below the window. Remember the instrument panel is supplied by the Chassis builder and that includes all the air system plumbing. Things can get very confusing if your not into repairing things. Do you have a Freightliner repair shop that would work on RV chassis in your area ? Rich.

joddan0586, Welcome to the Forum ! The only item that comes to mind at this time is a common ground point, that is ether corroded or possibility loose. Does the low air alarm come off and on when just setting or when it is moving? Or is there any other conditions that tend to affect the alarm ? Rich.

Joe, Rich hear. The pressure is within specifications for the lift pump. That tends to lead my thoughts to a bad fuel line, that in limiting fuel flow when the CAPS pump tries to increase the required flow rate. Test - You can use a short section of fuel line running from the lift pump to a small can of Diesel. If things work normally - I would sure expect a bad fuel line !!!!! Rich.

Your description of the sequence of events would result in the failure of the VP-44 injector pump. You might want to consider a pressure sensor circuit and a LED or pressure gauge(Located at the interment panel) in the output side of the second fuel filter and the input to the injector pump. Rich.

Joe, Do Not forget that there could be a bad fuel line. I did not read the entirety of your posts, so maybe you have replaced them or a bad section. Old rubber lines do get soft and mushy on the Inside. A blade of grass-One has to wounder if someone was mowing the grass next to the tanker and some clippings got blown into the drop lines. Rich.

Shapoe, Welcome to the FMCA forum ! Blake mentioned - There would be no issues pulling the weight. The thing is some states require brakes on any towed trailer, car or truck over 1500 lbs need a braking system and 3000 lb requirement is more common. Should you be involved in an accident, the fact that you do not have a supplemental braking system could become a nasty legal issue. You could quickly become liable ! So the owners need to decide what action to take prior to traveling. Rich.

Herman, Bill covered it well. Yes it comes from the company that insures the coach, Now! if you have a different carrier for the car get one from that company as well !When in Canada, they like the Canadian paperwork, all it is is prof of insurance. No cost to the insured owner and like Bill said they can send you the paper work in PDF format and all you need to do is print it out - if there are any questions they can make inquiries. Rich. Living as close to the boarder as we do, everyone kind of takes the information automatically.

Jim , I do know that some owners have used the aftermarket system and have been happy for the most part. Have a feeling that some of them will chime in. Rich.

tbussche, Welcome to the forum! Looks like you have looked into the mobile planes for out of country traveling. Always a good idea !!! Voice and data cost can be very expensive with out them. Regarding coverage, you could see if T mobile has a web page where you can type in a zip code and get coverage information. Trick is finding zip codes when in another country. Most carriers cover the main Rt's well and larger metropolitan areas as well. Rural areas can be spotty anywhere. High ground reception will be better the lower areas and valley's. Off Subject note ! Remember to get a Canadian insurance card for the coach. They are free just need to ask them to email you a copy - print it out and carry it with your other documentation. Rich.

Bruce, It's never a bad idea to keep a kit handy even if the OEM parts check out and match the replacement parts resistance. You might be able to read the resistance or lack of resistance and compare it to the installed parts by probing the connection terminals through the vacuum pack - sometimes parts are packed in a way that makes that impossible. You might just check the the ECO and T stat with an ohm meter to see if they have continuity. Should read about zero in both cases - as they are temperature activated switches. From your wiring diagram - find the 120 volt connections that feed power to the electric heating element - what resistance do you read and post it for me. If you are familiar with Ohms Law. You can calculate the current draw and power required - if the heating element is good, the numbers should match the specifications for your unit. Rich.

Bruce, sounds like you had the electric turned on and no water in the tank ? There is the possibility that the electric heating element failed - do in part to overheating with no water in the tank. The second though is - there is frequently a temperature sensor and current reset control for the electric heating element that might have tripped. Do you have the owners manual for the water heater ? Rich.

Bruce, It never hurts to clean the circuit board contacts. Your control board might have a 20 amp fuse Ac power fuse that has failed also. Just make sure the power is off before working on the connections and checking fuses ! Rich.

Ron, by chance - do you know if there was a difference in the line voltage? and was the AC the only load the when the fan did not start ? The only item other then that could be the 12 volt relay connection or relay contacts. Then - Maybe if the system was in auto cool and the interior temperature was below the set temperature of the thermostat.. When the compressor has been running That motor will have issues starting because of high side pressure, but that would not explain the fan motor starting. Rich.

dmeg40, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Think your model coach is a Class C, if that is the case the battery circuit in question is often located under the hood near in front of the engine radiator. They can be difficult to see and locate. The electric steeps get power from the chassis 12 volt battery! With all the power for the coach out, look for a large fuse between the positive terminal and the coach 12 volt power panel. This fuse is a flat stile fuse that is held in place with nuts and washers holding it on studs on both ends. the fact that the batteries are reading a full charge then a major short happened sometime. Question, did someone need to jump start the coach or short out a heavy wire circuit? Rich. Note, your post will get moved to the Technical - Electrical thread at some point, just in case you wounder where it went. Good luck finding the solution !

Think the quick answer is to have a service tech read the resistance of the fuel sensor and compare the reading to the part specifications. There should be a chart that gives specific expected values for a given full level. Then one needs to know if the error is do the mechanical location, failed sensor, or is it just a circuit grounding issue; or contaminated / compromised crimp / bad wire ? Depending on the probable cause, that can have a definite affect on cost ! Regarding Gauge readings that are wrong. I first tend to check the circuit ground connection integrity. A bad ground can send any sensor into a tailspin. Rich.

The big fuel filler lines an Diesel fuel will foam up real easy. The one other item - it will not stop the foaming though, is the tank vent lines can cause issues if the metal portion starts to rust out. The big one is the rubber vent lines can have low spots in them when clamps or straps fail. The lines drupe and fuel collects in the low point(s) and restricts air from venting out of the tanks. Those same vent lines problems also cause slow fulling issues of gas powered units!! Think the fueling issue hijacked a Generator thread ! Rich.

Debora, The problem point causing the caliper to stay engaged is most likely the Rubber flex line(s), like Joe mentioned. They do deteriorate over time, add heat and they will fail. The interior portion of the hoses brakes down and blocks the fluid path, when you apply the brakes the master cylinder output pressure is much higher an can enter the caliper, but needs a free flowing path to release the caliper. You did not mention the presents of an ABS fault light. So the ABS sensor should not be the issue, the ABS valve body is plumbed with steel lines the go to the attachment point of the flex lines going to the calipers. Regarding the brake flex line replacement - Look at one or more of the big players in replacement parts - NAPA, O'reill'y, AC Delco or similar outlets. Rich.

Ron, Checking the Motor shaft is free turning is a good start. With the weather cover off, you should notice an access cover. Behind this cover is where the run,start caps and motor starter are hiding. Remove all 120 volt power from the coach. Look key no touch he, the cap connections - they can place you on you bottom side. They can be discharged using a grounding cable. I use a screw driver and a good clip lead for that job. With the lead grounded and the other end clipped to the screw driver, place one hand in a belt loop hold the screwdriver by the plastic handle and tap the cap connection terminals. NO spark then they where discharged, Should you get a spark and you turn pale or the hart is racing = your not cutout to do this job. Oil filed cap should not be leaking, so it you see oil around the cap or caps are bad. The other thing to check is the connections. The wires can have melted ends or corrosion. Please work safe and if height bothers you and the thought on a shocking experience does not sound appealing, its not where you should be. There are are 12 volt relays between the control panel and the Ac units - that connect 120 volts to the motors. Rich.

With an accuracy issue with all the gauges. The first thing I would check is the ground connection(s) at the cluster assemble and then the point where the grounds collect at the common point. From there a single ground cable is often used to connect all the ground to one point on the chassis. A slight ground resistance change will change the accuracy of the gauges by a sizeable amount. The gauges are reading a resistance change from some style of sensor and it is not a large resistance value wise, so a bad connection can through things off for sure!! A 100 to 150 ohm sensor with a ground resistance of 5,10 or 15 ohm ground resistance will cause a 5% to 15% error. Rich.

cogriffins, Welcome to the FMCA forum! Noise when radio turned off, does suggest that the noise is coming from a something connected with the speaker amplifiers. Does the system have a surround sound system? Popping noises most often come from power issues on the circuit board(s). A random cycle would lead me to check for, Bad solder connections, failing filter capacitors or power output FET,s or transistors. One more thought, Does the sound system pop more when it is Hot out side or the unit has been running for a period of time? Rich.

Debora, The parts will be available in the aftermarket outlets. There are just to many delivery trucks built on the Workhorse chassis for them to disappear! I will look in my files and see what information I have. OK. I do have the information. Sent you a Privet Message ! Regarding the problem with the brakes- An item call the caliper pin can seize up and the brakes do not release after they have been applied. The main reason this problem happens is - not enough or the wrong kind of grease was used in most cases. The killer is, when the coaches just set for long periods of time things tend to rust up. causing the issue also. Rich.

Ray, Regarding the on / off cycle temperatures for the cooling fans. The fan sensor is connected to the Absorber units. The Electric heaters are mounted directly to the absorber. When the refrigerators are running on LP. A second heating tube runs up through the flame stack and connects to the evaporator at the top of the units, as does the hot side of the absorber. The evaporator is the common point of the 2 high temperature / pressure side of the system. The condensed coolant then has different return lines to the absorber. Depending on the different designs for different models. Some use a smaller tube connected to the top of the absorber along with a second small tube running from the evaporator to the bottom of the absorber. The condenser low pressure side not only connects to the High side of the Absorber(That is cool when the refrigerator is running on LP), but also to a small tube that connects to the bottom portion of the absorber. This setup allows for a constant source of coolant to maintain the cycle. Because, the electric heaters are only at ambient temperature + some residual heat remaining in the coolant after passing through the evaporator. ONLY in the hottest conditions will the sensors reach the 130 deg. turn on point. This could be a difficult scenario to duplicate. Think if the refrigerator is cooling well on LP that would indicate the LP system is functioning with in specifications. Rich. NOTE ! if you look the LP heater tube on the newer units it has a number of kinks in it - this adds to the total length of the tube. This extra length will lower the input temperature of the evaporator. This setup should also reduce the odds of the fans running on LP.

The information is supposed to be in the attendees packet if you are having the information sent to your mail box. Now ! if one is on the road I'm hoping that anyone could download the information. Think I might just make a call to the home office and see if there is an option for the full timers or anyone on the road before driving to Springfield. It is after 5:00 so think the call needs to be made tomorrow. Rich.