dickandlois

With the Silverleaf running the the intake temperatures jump from 125deg. on top of the mountain to 195 real fast to over 225 if I do not give the exhaust the off signal. Then things cool down fast into the 120deg. range Now, if you have any thoughts, please pass them on. Engine has a Mechanical Bosh 44 injector pump, it just might be allowing a small amount of fuel into the engine. The thing never stops running. Rich.

CCMSM! Not really an issue, when the cruise is set and you are going down hill you need turn off the cruise (just need to tap the brakes and it will engage. ON a steep down hill grade, the CAC(intercooler) temperature can go up and you might get a yellow check engine light so keep applying enough braking so retarder is not doing all the work keeping ones speed down. Rich.

John. If you can post the model of your EMS. think it will be a model 750 or 800. What is the size of your Shore power ? 30 or 50 amp? They are wired differently for 50 and 30 amp shore power> Rich.

John, Do you have the manual for the EMS in your coach? There is a 3 amp fuse located on the board, if the fuse fails then you will loose power. Need 12 volts to activate relays 1 an 2 on the circuit board. Rich.

Woodbe - Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Yes, remember the the transmission will shift down if wind or rate of climb requires more power for the drive train. Allison transmission works different then other transmissions. Rich.

John, the fact that everything works when the generator is running and you have only the 2 - 120 volt circuits when on Shore power. Points to a failed relay or switching circuit that should switch between shore and generator power. Did you power up the generator with a heavy load on the 120 volt supply - Like having the AC units turned on. This kind of load can weld relay contacts together, that would prevent the relay from switching back to shore power../ The prim suspect in this case is the Automatic Transfer Relay. When connected to shore Power do you get a current reading on the EMS panel? Did you get a Current reading when on gen power? Should have because everything worked. The Manual I have indicates the problem is in the change over relay if one source of 120 volts is missing. With all line power disconnected measure the resistance across the transfer relay- ) ohms ? Then measure the resistance reading from the Shore power plug and the terminals of the ATS. That test confirms the continuity of the cable and the connections between the plug and the repay. 50 amp shore power, check both L-1 and L-2 If that checks and you are using a 30 A to 50 A adapter, there is a good chance the Adapter is defective. Rich.

DD look into a software program that you can load into your apple unit that acts like a translator, for program language. There are some ,but I,m not up to speed regarding the software language Power Spec uses and the required Microsoft drive. Rich.

John, Did you turn off the Salesman switch next to the entryway? A 458 inverter / charger has 2-120 volt output circuits. that power the entertainment system and circuits in the kitchen and bathroom. turning off the inverter will power down those items. Check all the 120 volt circuit brakes mainly the main breakers in the AC power panels. Rich.

Herman, You will need to confer with the DW to get clarification on Magnificent and Wisdom. Thanks for the thought regarding ether or both. At times both are lacking though. Thanks Tom, Been on the receiving end during some conversations between both friends and customers when I was running a business and there is no way to totally prevent it when one or both parties have had less then a perfect day. Rich.

Herman, Simple fix just need to use ***** and some of the members will Know. Rich.

The issue is being politically correct. If any word or phrase can be interpenetrated in more then one way block it. Really like my Nick Name, but it falls into the not politically correct column ! The fact that the issue came up at the meet the members of the Forum gathering, Some members Know me by my nick name and not Rich or Richard because of the moniker name and my badge name where different. So I think I will ask to be known as **** (This is going to be xed out) at the next Rally. Rich.

The hard ride, could be caused by running heavy. There are Stiff rubber snubbers located between the frame and the axles. one at each corner. If the load forces the springs to flex to far. The frame is setting on those rubbers and it will ride ruff. That also reduces the affect of the sway bars. Just a note regarding weighing the coach if you do not have the 4 corner weights, stop the coach when the front axle on the scales, Get the weight. Then driver the coach forward and stop, get the total weight. Drive the front off the scales and get the rear weight. Rich.

Jim, Thanks for offering Jim the flow chart(S) Been looking over some wiring for the start circuit, but they are weak in regards to the transmission power circuits. Jim's model year fits into the time when fusable links where used on the starter solenoid circuit. They can open and have no indication of failing. Still sounds like there is no power to the shift panel though. Rich.

John, Have you weighed the coach when loaded ? Add the total weight of the family members to the total if you have weighed it with out everyone on board. Expand on the motion you are experiencing - Side to side, up and down or other. Soft ride or rough ride. Tire pressures you are running and the maximum load listed from the GVWR sticker for front and rear axles. The GVWR sticker is often located inside the drivers door area, though that information can be located elsewhere, but it should be in the coach somewhere. Rich.

George, One needs a test fixture to really test the boards. Did you try and cycle the water heater with the door open, to see if the water temp reached the upper limit? Air flow difference with the door open can result in a difference then with it closed. Higher heat in the heating tube will increase air flow and if the flow is restricted by the door being closed. The flame can go out before reaching the cutoff temperature. Check the thermal sensors that are mounted on the tank are sung still making good contact with the tank. They use a sticky tape to hold them tight to the surface and it is a one time use item, so do not pull the sensors loose / off. Sure is starting to sound like the control board is acting up. Sounds like you have done all the test. If you have run these tests then it sounds like its a control board. If you do not have the full manual go to this link. Page 14 covers things well ! http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwood-Water-Heater-Service.pdf Perform the following steps with POWER OFF to water heater. Good connections at all the Lettered Terminals. 3. Manual reset ECO high limit switch-A should be depressed. Check for continuity between TERMINAL B and TERMINAL C of ECO. 4. Check for continuity between TERMINAL D and TERMINAL E of thermostat. If there is none, replace thermostat. 5. If water is insufficiently hot, insure thermostat is flush with tank. 6. Verify a good wire connection between ECO TERMINAL-C and heating element TERMINAL-F. Correct if necessary. 7. Check for continuity between heating element TERMINAL-F and TERMINAL-G. If none, element is bad and should be replaced. Do not over-tighten self-tapping screws when installing new element. 8. There should NOT BE CONTINUITY between element screw-G and flange of element. If there is, element has shorted. Element should be replaced. 9. Verify ground connection Rich.

Bill, Interesting, but aircraft an FAA rules are quite different. Maintenance is must stricter. Found this link and tried to make as close of a comparison between a helicopter and a coach. Helicopter and coaches can experience close to the same conditions because of where they operators might be landing them and the environment. Like salt water, mud, water spray and others.. Regarding the product it is basically asphalt and one could buy that is a spray can and as long as the area covered with it an no openings that allow acid to contact the metal all should be good. http://www.helicoptermaintenancemagazine.com/article/aircraft-battery-maintenance-101 No mention of coating the area and many batteries used in aircraft are enclosed to a greater extent then those mounted in coaches. Rich.

Thanks Jim, but I do have the drawings for some of the Monaco chassis on file! Like Brett another members of the forum, we try to pass on information that we hope is helpful. No two coaches are wired exactly the same. Floor plans, options and model year can necessitate changes. Then throw in availability and or new or updated items and it makes for an interesting challenge finding some issues. Hope you get your start issue resolved!! Keep probing the group with any questions or information and there is an answer out there. The strong point of the forum is its members and the total knowledge and experience. Plus a willingness to share. Rich. I have used a probe with a bulb in the probe to test circuits and have even made up the same idea with clips and enough wire to place a bulb out side the coach that I can see if it lights when a circuit is activated from the drivers location when working alone!

Ron, I have not run across anything that mentions Acid Resistant , but these paints are tough. I have used The first one to protect chassis areas exposed to harsh environments. Not hard to apply, but the cleanup can be. I often use disposable application items. Moisture is the activator and the material has a short shelf life once opened and exposed to air, like purring it in to an application pan or container. Although more expensive I purchase the smallest quantity to do the job! Read the information. http://magnetpaints.com/ http://www.rhinoliningsindustrial.com/containment/ http://www.por15.com/ Hope this helps ! Rich. A second thought-I have installed Battery trays under the series 31 and the Gulf cart batteries. These trays confine the acid mixture and it is discharged out a hole in the bottom. Not perfect, but it keeps the acid away from the a large portion of the supporting structure.

George, The Fact that you can smell propane is an indicator, that the ignition board is a possibility. Before you go there, check and see if there is a difference of how long the flame continues to burn when the access door is open compared to if it is closed. Does the unit run until the units shuts down because the water temp setting is hot enough? When the door is open? The fact that the burner starts and then quits, restarts and the burner sound changes is an indication that the air to fuel mixture is off. Have you moved the air mixture tube while working on the unit? You mentioned that the flame was blue, but there is a large section of the flame that is yellow. Indication of insignificant air. The yellow portion should be as small as it can be with the access door closed. Hard to see, but the heater should sound more like it does when the door is open. The orifice should be as close to perpendicular as possible with the air mixture tube. It is nominal for the draft to change as the tube temperature rises, but if the area of yellow colored flame increases. There is not enough air entering the firebox. Air to fuel mixture is set to low. The spark gap set at the proper spacing to insure a good spark and the ignition point is centered over the gas/air mixture path. The ignition board will only try to fire 3 times and then go into a safe mode that requires turning off the circuit and turning it back on. Post your findings. As Tom mentioned- the thermacouple will cool if the flame turns yellow and the airflow is restricted or bad therm thermacouple. Note: if you see soot building up at the discharge area, the air to fuel mixture is rich, open the mixing slot just a little and keep trying different settings and it is a narrow band that will operate properly. Rich.

Dave, I have a Cummins engine from around the same build date. The mechanical parts of the engines do not really have a problem with Bio fuels. Yes B-05 is tolerated and as the percentage Bio increases it does have some adverse affects on rubber fuel lines and seals used in the outboard mounted items that come in direct contact with the fuel, but the first item that failed for me was the Fuel lift pump. It did not like the ULSD fuel and the seals failed. The second issue regarding bio is it can be a breeding ground for algae, so one needs to add a biocide to the keep it from forming. A real issue if the coach sets for extended periods of time. When you are driving longer distances and adding fuel it is not as critical as the fuel suppliers filter the fuel. The third issue is the fact that Bio has higher lubricity and will loosen materials in that have been building up the fuel system, this issue will in most cases require the replacement of fuel filters on a different schedule unit the system is purged of items that plug filters. So carry spares. Rich.

Brett, Question, the lights in the shift panel he is seeing? Could they be the lighting back lights and not the shift button illuminating? One of the possible replacement Latching Relays has been discontinued. I did some editing of my post on this thread. original post was 18th. of January 2013. Posted 18 Jan 2013 · Report post There are 2 ways the relays where wired. These are latching relays and the switch is a momentary rocking switch that toggles them off an on. The difference in the wiring is where the fuse link(s) is connected. The links are gray in color and outwardly show no sign of being open. Both fuse links need to be good and both relays need to energize to get the system on line. There should be a Purple wire from the switch to the relay, at the switch there will be a white wire going to ground and the other end of the Purple wire. Purple wire to center connection of the SW.#2-- White wire to connection #1 Is this what you see ? The switch does not need to be locked to keep the circuit active ! The lock is to prevent from inadvertently turning off the 12 volt system. 12 Volts should be present on 1 side of each relay, these are high current circuits with large fuses so do not short out these cables. One gets a large spark if you do !!!! and the fusses are expensive and special. Not found at the auto supply store. The relay part number listed is KIB 16615055 Momentary, Location Rear Run Box. Page # 196 Monaco prints. Edit: 1-18-2013 second edit, 5-14-2016 The latching relay is an effective battery disconnect device. The LR9806 is a single-pulse latching relay. It only requires a short "pulse" of voltage to activate or deactivate the relay. Since the LR9806 does not require constant voltage, it is one less load on the battery. Discontinued. Link to a replacement for the LR9806 http://rvpowerpartsplus.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=360 This might help. Rich.

Tom, I have a copilot that is always correcting, the lane and when to turn left or right. LOL The thought of smart maps and self drive vehicles, kind of scare me !!! Rich.

Dave, Thanks for your service. Looks like you load made a nice safe drop, not like the 3 hummers that slipped out of there rigging's and hit allot harder. Someone was on the wrong end of that conversation !! Rich.

RA Coleman, This link might be helpful in regards to the floor height, but I have not found any drawings that give the center to center points. https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/pg-82-S0379.pdf Having said that I know there is a file that has some pictures and some reference information to setting the slide rail gear strip in the proper location to relative to the round drive gears. I can keep looking if that might help. If your system has this stile of mechanical drive, the key is to have the gear rail centered under each of the round drive gears (as close as possible) over the entire running distance of the slide. You might build a 3 X 4 X 5 right angle triangle to keep the rails square to slide wall mounting point. Rich.

OK, Let me look around my files and see what else I might have ! Rich.