dickandlois

buzzw43, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Just need some clarification - Sounds like you tried to start the generator without the coach running, when you heard a click! Then there was no power inside the coach- Where you missing the 12 Volts at this time? Then it sounds like you started the coach engine OK and then where able to start the generator - with the coach running you have 12 Volts? With the Generator running do you have 12 volts? Now, without the coach or the generator running you do not have 12volts-- correct? If that is the case then there is a high current fuse mounted near the inverter or batteries that supply 12 volts to the coach circuits that might have blown. Is your coach equipped with a disconnect / salesman switch / relay circuit? Rich.

Red, Look at the front portion of the heater box, where the coil is connected to the AC plumbing. The plumbing connections for the condenser likely come out of the cooling section of the heater box - where a top and bottom section screw together. Sure would be nice if it can be changed out in this manner and not have to go from the inside. Rich.

Joe, The low side drops from the equalization pressure of 60 / 65 lbs,(when setting with the gauges connected) down to 40 lbs and continues to drop to below 25lbs. The system makes cold air and the low side drops on down to 5lbs or less. Keeps making cool air and the high side drops to 40lbs. When the system is making cold air (50 to 55degs.) the high side is running hot, but as the pressure drops to 5lbs. on the low side and 40ish. on the high side it just makes cool air. Then if I let it run, the system stops make cool air. Now, if I add freon the pressure will slowly rise on both the low and high side and go back to making cold air. The thing is the system does not go above 70lbs on the high side and will stick around 25 to 30 lbs. on the low side as long as I keep feeding the system it will make cold air, the high side gets hot and the pressure stays around 50 to 60 lbs tops. So the freon is going somewhere, an the system is dyed - with no indication of a leak in any of the visible connections or lines. No way to look into the evaporator area. So I'm thinking of opening up the system on the high and low side of the evaporator and see if it hold pressure and vacuum out of the system. Like I said, this is one strange fault !!!! Like the leak is present only when the system is running, the evaporator gets cold and then the pressures go south. Cracked solder connection on the condenser coil - that just opens enough to prevent getting a good charge level. ###!!!^^^&&& true frustration !!!!! Rich.

Kay, Thanks for the feedback! It sure has been making me fell like I'm betting my head against a wall! Interesting that there is no indication of a leek anywhere around the compressor. One would think the dye would show up somewhere on the Compressor!! Rich.

Keith, thanks for posting the Code number. I'm going to keep looking into possibilities. the one item that keeps coming up is Key on and the TCM did not receive ECM messages for 1 second. Time Out Error. The item that creates this error frequently is the neutral safety switch. There is a new term used for the switch, but I can not remember what it is! A defective Neutral safety switch or an adjustment issue with the switch, if its a mechanical style gear selector- generally does not allow the engine to start. This error is generated by the Transmission TCM - With all the communications of the vehicle electronics talking on the Control Area network / Bus(Can) also referred to as the J-1939 circuit. This is a link to the fault codes listed by Allison. Page 7 list your code. http://www.equipementsdelfosse.com/data/otc/genisys/FAULTCODEBOOK.pdf Hope the reset mentioned by Walt works for you. Rich.

Interesting Walt, Never would have considered that the ECM or ATM would have a reboot cycle!! Rich.

Red, Welcome to the forum! I think I just ran into the same problem 2 days ago while checking our dash AC. As Brett mentioned, there is a drain hole for the condensed moisture to drain. So if you are seeing water - that is normal! In ours it is looking like the evaporator, but I need to remove the kick panel in front of the passengers set to see if I can spot any of the system dye. The system charges and works-- no leaks or dye at any point in the system is viable, but it slowly looses charge when running and only when it is running. The key for me is the charge level never gets up to the normal pressures - the system pressure equalizes at between 65 and 70 psi - it starts cooling and as the temperature drops the charge drops lower until it just quiets cooling. Turn off the AC and letting the system pressure equalize and the pressure is about 5 to 10 lbs. lower each time I cycle it. So, I think there might be a solder connection with a crack in it and as the joint cools, the crack opens very slightly and it allows the R134 to leak out of the system. Worked on a number of AC systems and never had this type of problem before! Pull a vacuum on the system at outside temperature and it holds for days, pressure test the system and that holds for days. This fact has me going in circles, because if it holds pressure when just setting on a pressure test why will it nor hold the proper pressure when charging ? Never any indication of a leak. The coil comes out the front in many cases, but I'm thinking it might need to be removed from inside. The problem is, I have been in the area before an I did not look real close to see that time. There sure are a number of connections and hardware in the area. Oh, if your coach kick panel is fastened the same way as mine, you might fine a small magnet handy to find the screws hiding in the carpet material that hold the panel in place. Rich. OH, I forgot to mention that I found an issue with my gas welder regulates just yesterday and maybe I have error-ed in believing that the pressure I was reading when using them to pressurize the system was giving me a faulty reading and if that is the case them maybe I need to have my AC manifold gauges checked also. Strange, but strange things happen !!!!

Ron, The Control board is the primary culprit, but just for fun check the 12 volt level at the circuit board and check for a Good ground connection on the green wire connecting it to ground. While your at it use a clean pencil eraser and clean the circuit board contacts. You might get lucky and gain some time with the board, because it sounds like it is cycling properly. Rich.

Keith, You might give Monaco Customer Service a call. 877-466-6226. 7:00 AM to 4:00 PM Pacific Time. Ask if they can tell you of a way to read the code # or if you have a code number - what is it related to and how to address the problem. With the TCM and the ECM talking to each other it could be a fuel issue that is placed the Engine in Limp mode! Rich.

Peter, you might try looking around the Federal Mogul and National Seal sites for the caliper seals. They might supply seals for the master cylinder and cover. Rich.

Sheeterangle, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Could you post the make and model of you inverter / charger for the group? And any information on the monitor and control panel for the inverter / charger. The charge and inverter circuits are often controlled by this unit. Many of the models have 2 - 110volt circuit breakers that power circuits in the coach. So if you find a circuit breaker in the main AC power panel - it most likely will turn off the unit, but also power off the 2 circuits mentioned. Rich.

petek, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Your chassis could be equipped with hydraulic over hydraulic as mentioned by Brett. Some chassis did have the electric assist. The Vacuum pump you found is used to supply vacuum to the Heater / AC and defrost system to switch the air flow to the area or outlets you want it. The default position, should the vacuum system fail - is the defrost position. This is a link to a Manual for a 1989 John Deere chassis. This manual is a very large PDF File about 950 pages. So it will take some time to download ! http://www.cdr-roc.com/89JD/89-JD-Chassis-manual.pdf This is a link to a owners manual from Airstream on a Oshkosh Chassis that might prove help full. This manual is 172 pages long. http://www.airstream.com/wp-content/uploads/archive/f645b72106e6e2a8.pdf Rich.

pollonbeeche, You mentioned that you changed out 2 batteries 5 years ago and are considering replacing them with 4 new batteries. 1- Do you have a total of 2 batteries currently and are increasing the total number to 4? or you just replace 2 of the total batteries 5 years ago? Regarding the batteries the only difference is the Amp Hr. rating with the same footprint - if you are going from 2 up to 4 batteries you will need to parallel the two sets by adding a positive jumper, an intermediate cable on the second set and a negative jumper cable to connect the sets together. 2- Do you check your water levels regularly and have you run a hydrometer reading on the current battery cells? You could also have them load tested. This would give you a good indication of the battery condition. Rich.

Bill, do you know who made your speedometer? Like an M line 700 or something else.The code probably came up on the information bar. Is everything else working ? Rich.

texaswrrr, Welcome to the Forum! You did not mention that you had a check engine light. So I'm thinking you may have a Cam sensor issue-if you 8.1 starts and runs rough. Then if you turn off the engine, restart and it runs smooth. You most likely have a cam sensor issue. You did not mention the engine acting like you turned off the key and back on while driving or a bucking sensation, that could indicate a distributor sensor issue. You might want to have you mechanic run engine diagnostic to see if there are any codes present and check the engine timing information or if there is a failing ignition coil. The 8.1L has a coil for each plug that you would have noticed when installing the new plug wires. The third item that you might look into is the throttle body and the mass air flow sensor, what is the condition of the air cleaner? I'm leaning towards fuel air mixture issue or timing problems. With only 44,000 miles it should not be related to timing chain and gears, but stranger things have happened. Rich.

wfstewa, Brett brought up some good points. You mentioned 4 coach batteries in your original post so, I was thinking they where 6 volt units. I do not know if you have the manual for your remote control panel, but the charger / inverter system is software controlled. This is a link to the Owners Manual for the remote, if you need it. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/RV-Series-GS/RC7_RC-GS_Owners_Manual%28975-0210-01-01_Rev-A%29.pdf This link is for the same remote-just in case you have a Tracer Engineering setup. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/822-4RC7-RC7GSRevNew.pdf Rich.

wfstewa, The 4 batteries are connected in a series / parallel configuration. 2 - 6 volt batteries in series for 12 volts, the second set of 6 volt batteries is then connected in parallel with the other set. Connect you charger to the common 12 volt and common ground point of the batteries. The points where you read 12+ volts across the set of 4 batteries.(Hope this answers your question) Remember,! AGM batteries have a float charger limit of 13.5 to 13.8 Volts - Do Not exceed this level. Remember to purchase a charger designed to charge AGM batteries. Flooded batteries have a float charge of 14.4 to 14.8 volts and this level will damage AGM batteries. This link to information on charging the different stile batteries might be help full- Page 4 offers a chart covering charging requirements. http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-GEL-and-AGM-Batteries-EN.pdf Rich.

I notice a buzz with the key on. Appears it is the Daytime Running LIghts relay? Could this be related? Seem that I came across a thread that mentioned this as a possible short? Possible ground? Any thoughts here? When I turn the lights on, it goes away? LN, The buzzing relay - could very well be due to a poor ground - it is interesting that the buzz goes away when the lights are turned on! My first thought - regarding the relay you mentioned, is it could be the accessory circuit relay? That could be the source of the poor or low voltage you are experiencing at the ACT! You might look closely at the relay and see if it matches any of the others used on the coach and switch 2 of them around. If the buzzing stops - See if your voltage reading at the ACT reads 12 volts or better! Should you get a better reading then the relay might be the culprit! However, if the relay still buzzes - then try to find the ground connection side of the relay and trace it back to it's ground point, also check all the connectors are tight and clean. Tracing the ground back through all the wire bundles is a pain for sure, but it might be time well spent. Any feedback from you would be helpful. Rich.

LAN, I have been reading and rereading your post and I wonder if by chance you have a connection or connections with a high resistance-- if everything else is working normally. On a coach that is around 12 years old, there could be a bad ground connection - the first item(s) I would check are the connections to the frame. Sounds like you have recently replaced the batteries and serviced the battery connections) then look at all the ground straps often running between the frame and engine, the ground straps often used to create the multiple common ground points for all the circuits. Also, you mention the voltage drop - have you had the current load checked on the batteries as you start getting set up to up date the system, just how much of a load do you have? Do you have the coach plugged into shore power with the charger running when going through the setup to update the SCT? Appears to me that you have a voltage drop caused more from resistance then load all things being equal ! Rich. While reading one of the SCT manuals - this information was interesting: Can I tune more than one vehicle with this programmer? - One vehicle tuned at a time. You may return to stock and tune another vehicle up to 5 times. My question - does one need to purchase more re-tune time? or pay to have files cleaned and reset in the system?

Dennis, As mentioned by Herman there are step covers that are Air activated and There are coaches with mechanically operated covers that use a motor to turn a threaded rod. Try this link. (Post #8) and take a look at the attached file ! http://community.fmca.com/topic/5088-power-step-cover-in-2006-monaco-diplomat/?hl=%2Bstep+%2Bcover Rich.

Martin, A couple of links that should help: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQOBAby3nO18AF6sNKB6NuItUbiu0n5EJcs8Aq7PzKJN1ICpGXZ https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTvq8VGfid_E83fCsE9u_-A8cpn-RqkbiNcAcEMUAa6xTPA-9qB Rich.

Digging into the Throttle / Treadle control I did find this much information regarding the control for Cummins engine before 1994> With a OEM part number you might find something, From the part numbers for Cummins after 1994 might work, or from the other information listed in my other post. These parts where supplied Williams or Tectran The difference between the 3 is the angle of the peddle - 5=28.5 Deg., 6=35Deg., and 7=45Deg. WM351375 D n/a TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), CUMMINS BEFORE 1994 WM351376 D n/a TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), CUMMINS BEFORE 1994 WM351377 D n/a TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), CUMMINS BEFORE 1994 Part numbers for item in the 1994 model years WM350825 C 86 TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), 28.5 DEG CUMMINS AFTER 1994 WM350826 D 86 TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), 35 DEG CUMMINS AFTER 1994 WM350827 A 86 TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), 45 DEG CUMMINS AFTER 1994 WM351314 B 92 ELECTRONIC CONTROL (WM526), CUMMINS,DDEC 3 W/IDLE VAL/SWTC(This control is made for Cummins engines requiring the Idle sensor switch built into the Throttle) . Rich.

peterabbe, Welcome! You got the code correct Main Code 21, Sub Code 12 - 21 - Throttle position sensor, failed low! Use full throttle default, DNA The sensor the ECM is looking for is a potentiometer, basically a pot. ECM not reading any voltage - so you might have an open 5 volt supply to the Pot, loose connector, broken part. In this case, my thought is a dirty control.That pot is part of the throttle control! You might be able to reset the throttle sensor, turn key to on position and pump pedal 4-5 time from 0 -100% then back off and then start engine NOTE: A good throttle position sensor should have resistance of: 1. 9000–15,000 Ohms across terminals A and C. 2. 500 ohms, moving to 9000–15,000 Ohms as TPS is stroked (measured across terminals A and B. Trouble Shooting 1---If the condition persists, replace the ECU. If replacing the ECU corrects the problem, reinstall the original (bad) ECU to confirm that the problem is in the ECU. If the original ECU now works, inspect the ECU connectors for any corrosion or damage which may cause an intermittent condition. If the original problem reoccurs, reinstall the replacement ECU. 2---- The only troubleshooting necessary for a PWM fault is to check for an open, short-to-ground, or short-to-battery in the signal wire from the PWM source. An open or short-to-ground will set Code 21 12. A short to battery will set Code 21 23. If you have a Good Tech. this might help ! Older dumber APS designs were simple rheostats, varying 0-5V on one signal and 5-0V on the other, so the sum had to be 5V. On the Teleflex unit: Signal 1 should vary from 11% at Idle to 42% at WOT. Signal 2 should vary from 22% at Idle to 84% at WOT. You can have a knowledgeable tech probe for these values to see if the pedal assembly is currently working. A transient might be no 5V reference signal (0V or some other voltage not 5V) on one or both of the middle pins, could be a loose connector, could be a loosely made wire-pin connection on one of the signal sides, could be a loose ground, , could be a poorly made connection on its way to the ECU, etc. So fixing it might not be a matter of swapping out the pedal sensor assembly, those other types of errors should be checked first, but before that I'd recommend the above Idle-to-WOT reading checks. Look at this link for a floor mounted unit, I think! See if you can find there catalog- It should list the parts by who's engine it is used for: Cat, Cummings and others. http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Products/Electronic-Throttle-Controls.aspx Think yours might match the WM-526 series. The key if you need a new one is the correct connector! Hope this helps Rich.

rjhayden67, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! You might try to contact Fleetwood with the Fin number for your coach and ask for the electrical drawing(s) that cover the wiring circuits for the Toilet. With this information you might be able to find the circuit the powers the unit. With a meter you could then find where the interruption is, causing the loose of power. I looked up some information and if I found the correct circuit board and switch repair kit-the kit cost over $1100. So it might be worth the time to see if there is a wiring problem. Could you post the series of your auto flush unit? Rich.

rjhayden67, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! You might try to contact Fleetwood with the Fin number for your coach and ask for the electrical drawing(s) that cover the wiring circuits for the Toilet. With this information you might be able to find the circuit the powers the unit. With a meter you could then find where the interruption is, causing the loose of power. I looked up some information and if I found the correct circuit board and switch repair kit-the kit cost over $1100. So it might be worth the time to see if there is a wiring problem. Could you post the series of your auto flush unit? Rich.