five

I buy mine at Wally World. It's easier to fill the DEF tank when parked some where and not at a busy truck stop trying to refuel at the same time. Plus, WM has come out with their own brand of DEF which is about $4 cheaper for 2.5 gallons than the brand name.

Here's a permanent fix: http://durashieldppfs.com/titan-xt-features-benefits/

To the OP, "other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?"

Any diesel powered coach will have hot water from the engine. We even had a 27 HP Yanmar in a boat...made lots of hot water. Getting back to the original question...we are on RV number six, and the first that is all electric. I can't see going back to a propane stove, propane/elect refer, propane or elect water heater, etc. All electric is great, Aqua Hot for heat and hot water, residential refer and an induction stove...no more blowing 10 A fuses on the absorption refer. I'll never go back.

We've had two DPs. One of the first things we do after purchase is find out what appliance is on what line. The DW turns something on...washer, dryer, Aqua Hot, microwave, etc, and I watch the gauge to see what amps are being drawn and which line it is on. I keep a log of this information. Also, my coach has many extra AC outlets in back of panels, under the sink, in back of the refer, etc. I have tested all of those so I know which line they are on.

About once a day I get a link to a "free Windows 10 upgrade!" Which, every time, I click "NO." Don't like changes and every time they change Windows I spend weeks trying to figure out how to use the new system.

Thanks guys. These things are high dollar and I want to be sure I get my 'high' dollar's worth.

I was under the impression you need to have a certain charger or a certain setting in your charger if using it with AGM batteries. There's a poster on another forum who insists AGMs work fine on 'normal' chargers. Anybody have the straight skinny on this?

Quite true, Herman, we found out the hard way. Last May we had a RF blow out on I 55 south of Chicago. We sat on the side of the road...edge of the road actually...for over five hours while they looked for a 295/80R22.5. Finally found one over 50 miles away...for $800.

The refer works off coach batteries, steps work off chassis batteries.

My Dad, long gone I'm sorry to say, always told me as a young man, "if it's a toy and you can't afford to pay cash, you don't need it."

Herman, FYI, American Coaches (don't know about other Fleetwood products) do not have adjustable thermostats in the basement. The thermostat is fixed, somewhere in the 40s, and cannot be changed.

Same here, and that's the bottom line. If I worried about depreciation, the last thing I would own is a MH.

Is it the line or a fitting? We had an Aqua Hot leak in our last coach...the repair was tightening the fitting.

Yes, these manufacturers will be happy to build you one mighty fine coach. Be sure to bring your check book, all your credit cards and your first born son.

I noticed the article mentioned " 18,000 pound and 20,000 pound-load capacity front axles. " Surely there can't be too many 'normal' RVs with front axles of that size...just those in the Prevost, Newell, etc.class.

Another thing to be aware of if the steps start dragging is your chassis battery might be getting weak. Had this happen a while back...steps were slow to open...engine would not start.

As noted in the pics, Milwaukee = rust.

The manufacturer's name of the game is CYA...all these decisions are based on what the lawyers tell the decision makers.

Be careful with the coolant. I doubt Wally World has coolant for a diesel. Call Coachman to determine the coolant type. Some is "normal" and some is Extended Life Coolant (ELC).

Lots of moving parts in those steps, be sure they are well lubed.

Thanks, I know what the acronym stands for...as for your before or after discussion, on turbine aircraft, as I said earlier, they have either and EGT or TOT (turbine outlet temp) or PTIT (power turbine inlet temp). Our turbo diesels and all turbines require a cool down prior to shutting down. On MHs, idling while checking in or idling while finding your camp site is normally enough. On a fixed wing aircraft, taxiing to the ramp is the cool down, with the engines virtually at idle. On a rotary wing aircraft, that has to hover to parking, the cool down (at least on a Huey) is two minutes at idle. IMHO, some times it appears we over think some of these issues. If we needed gauges other than those that are OEM, and there were problems, the engine manufacturers would be putting out new information and more gauges. I'm on diesel number four and never had any problems...if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Back to the OP's question...if we were to go full time right now, I would not add any tools to those already on board. However, if it has north of 450 ft/lbs of torque...that's why I pay Good Sam. My on board tools are pretty complete...half inch drive set, 3/8" drive set, along with open end wrenches...but anything ''serious'' goes to GS.

Would somebody kindly explain what an EGT guage is and why we need one? I have a Silverleaf Chassis Monitoring System on this coach, which gives me eng and trans temp digitally to one degree. I have an aviation back ground where we had either an EGT gauge, PTIT gauge or TOT gauge on various turbine engines so I know what they do and why they are there. So I'm not exactly sure what is critical on a turbo diesel that needs another gauge...in addition to the Silverleaf.

Seven is right on the edge of being good...or being bad...good move to have them checked out. We had a seven year old GY 670RV blow out last May. The Good Sam service tech said he thought we had driven over some road debris. Could be. Also, our coach spent a long time sitting in the Texas sun prior to our purchase...so long that the inside wall facing west, faded. That's the side the failed tire was on.