five

I tell the D/W, who has yet to drive, to watch the toad in the rear camera, that's the best indicator of whether or not you are in the center of the road.

Having been to both Canada and Mexico many times, none in an RV, the easiest thing for me to do is not go to either of those places again. That's what I plan to do.

"Holds" over 12.5 gal (50 + qts), takes 10.5 gal (42 qts) at oil change.

We carry one 50 amp extension cord. Only used it once, but when you need it, you need it. We were in a CG on the MS River that was set up for Class A's...we had a 5th wheel at the time. The only way we could park facing the river was 'backwards,' which put all the connections on the 'wrong' side.

Carl...true, this is RV # 6 for us.

Most engine manufacturers say to change the oil at xxxx miles or one year, whichever comes first. The Detroit Diesel I have in this Eagle says to change the oil at 35k intervals, no time limit.

We love our Splendide, we are on our second model. There are some CGs where we would not even want to go in the laundry, much less put clothes in one or their machines.

If all the above fail, get a DP with a tag...guaranteed to fix everything.

Michelin owns BF Goodrich, but I don't think they own GY.

Lots of information on this thread. This has been posted before, but here's the bottom line: Tow rating is the lower of: 1. Coach's hitch rating. 2. Coach tow rating. 3. Chassis tow rating (sometimes different than the coach's). 4. The difference in weight between the coach's GCWR and the coach's actual weight when ready to tow.

Agree, I lube mine six months after the shop does it...and, as noted above, I insure they do it during the annual lube.

I've done all my vehicle oil changes from my teens...until we got a DP. This one drains 40 quarts, that's lots of oil. I found a small diesel engine shop that works only on diesels, 18 wheeler tractors, bull dozers, cranes, pick ups, etc. They encourage customers to wander around their shop and watch what they are doing. Since I bring my own oil (they don't care) from Sam's, and filter, I know the right oil is going in the crank case. I can also point out some hard to find lube points, and key lube points...like the axle, that they might not know about on a DP. Oil/filter change and complete lube for $65 is hard to beat. In turn, they use the old oil in their shop furnace.

keysbabe1...if you haven't already, you might consider getting a concealed carry permit and arm your self accordingly.

Call Cummins with the engine number.

The steps will also have trouble working if the chassis battery loses it's charge.

I don't plan on ever buying another MH...but if I was...based on this thread...it would not be a Tiffin.

Unless I missed it somewhere...be sure to check the tire pressure. I saw where you "treated" the tires, but did not see checking the TP.

That makes no sense at all. Some guy buys a $500k bus, lives on the west coast and can't make an appointment to have a serious problem fixed! So he drives to Red Bay and finds out they are booked for a month...then what?

The "mushroom head caps" are bungs....http://www.bing.com/search?q=bungs&go=Submit&qs=bs&form=QBLH I don't glue them, you might need to get to the screw behind the bung. I push it in by hand, then tap it with the butt end of a screw driver. That way it's in there tight enough so that it won't fall out, yet you can still get it out if necessary.

You could be exactly right...but, if it was my Prevost...my Super 8 days/nights would be history. Carl...for $250k, it would be a pretty old, pre slide, Prevost.

Okay, I just read the earlier posts where you said you are all electric. Your comments about soft ice cream made me think old style refer...don't you run the inverter...no need to fire up the genny?

You are correct, normally I am never ever bored. However, we are in a CG with a weak wifi...and it is (and was) raining. Couldn't get on line so I started wondering around my computer between attempts.

According to AH, the 400 series uses .4 GPH. Our experience is that the electric element cannot keep up with hot water demand for more than one shower...have to turn on the burner. As I mentioned in an earlier thread, when driving and using the AH for coach heat, if cold, the burner must be on, eng heat is not enough. As for the heat pump, it works down to about 40...we don't use it much.

Speaking of Prevost, yesterday we saw a Prevost on the shoulder of the road outside a Super 8. Must have been in the motel as the MH was way too out of level to sleep in it. If I had a Prevost...don't think I'd be in a Super 8.

The Aqua Hot is a great system, we are have our second unit. Couple of more thoughts to add to Herman's. When running the AH going down the road, it will heat the coach only if it is not too cold. If cold you have to turn the burner on. Also, most of us have the 450 series AH. One of it's shortcomings is that when running the burner for heat, and you turn on a hot water faucet, the heat feature shuts down until the demand for hot water is gone...then the heat resumes its heating. If you have the 600 series AH, it will run both hot water and heat. Carl...you need to break down and get a residential refer.