five

First a bit of clarification on some earlier comments. Rich...most AC coaches like mine have two inverters and two banks of four 6 v batteries each. They are wired separately with one inv/battery bank solely for the residential refer, the other inv/battery bank for all other 12 v requirements. My set up is only one inverter charger but eight 6 v batteries to run everything. Your analysis was pretty much right on target. Bill...read the above paragraph. As Paul Harvey would say, here's "the rest of the story:" The repair facility sent it back and I reinstalled it. While installing it, I noticed a long very heavy duty copper wire coming from the battery bank, behind the wall to underneath the Magnum. I looked in my Magnum paper work...not the operator's manual, the installation manual. I noticed a lug/bolt on the right side rear corner on the bottom of the Magnum as sitting in the coach. Called Magnum and the AC tech line, both said that's where a ground goes. I secured the copper wire to the lug/bolt, rechecked all connections, turned on shore power and only the charger and inverter circuit breakers. All looked normal on the Magnum remote in the coach. After a few days, I turned on all the other circuit breakers, all still normal. Turned off the power, turned on the inverter and ran the microwave off the inverter, all still normal. Turned shore power back on, all still normal...float charging. Two days later I unplugged from shore power and took the coach out for a 20 mile run and to refuel it. When I parked it the Magnum remote again indicated all was normal, it was float charging. I've put off writing this to be sure all is well, apparently it is. The copper wire noted was not in the grounding lug/bolt originally. I don't know if it was grounded 'enough' to be functional up until it started acting weird in April... then getting progressively worse. I violated one of my cardinal rules going through this drill. This is RV number six for us. When there is some kind of problem, I always (not this time, though) check the simplest and easiest to fix aspects of the problem first. This time, I was talking to the "experts" and did not even think about doing the easiest thing first...check the security of all wires and grounds. Thanks to those who made suggestions.

Never have understood why Fleetwood needs both a VIN and a FIN.

The laptop I am on now is dying and I'm in the market for a new one. Like to find one without Windows 10 if that can be done.

You remember correctly.

Yes, I have the manual. Coach is listed in OP...2014 American Eagle 45 T. Also, the configuration is eight 6 V AGMs for the coach, and two 12 V AGM for the chassis. Many coaches of this model have two inverter/chargers (one for each set of four batteries, and one dedicated to the residential refer), my coach has only one inverter/charger. Be off line tomorrow for a week or so. Thanks.

Part of Rodger's rant is not correct. We do not have an "RV" convection oven. Ours is off the shelf residential...and it works fine. Much rather have it than all the storage space we'd lose for a very very seldom used regular oven.

No sure what a "sub panel" is... inverter and charger each have separate breakers. I do have an ammeter, although unsure as to how I would use it to check current on each line. Therefore, since I have a normal Magnum remote panel, seems it would be easier to check using it. I'll be off line for around a week, I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the help.

For a couple of months, I've been getting a red fault light and an "AC Overload" message in the Magnum remote...Magnum is a 2812. Very seldom at first, then quite often. Made numerous calls to the Magnum tech line, reset it many times. Finally, it happened right after being reset and just after I talked to Magnum. I called back immediately. After many tests, the tech said to disconnect from shore power and send the Magnum to a repair center. I hooked the coach up to a trickle charger and sent the Magnum off to a repair facility. Shortly thereafter got a call that the Magnum was fine and there is a short somewhere in the electrical system in the coach. I do lots of maintenance and repairs on this thing, but I don't think I want to tackle a serious electrical issue. I'm looking for suggestions as to what I can check (not too complicated) and suggestions I can give to an RV shop as to what they can look for and check. Coach is a 14 American Eagle. Thanks

Carl, I have to disagree on the statement regarding pricing. I did not buy from them because their price on the same coach was much higher than the competition.

If you do not want Windows 10, call Microsoft and a tech will talk you through how to block it. Afer you tell him WHY you don't want it.

Carl, check Phoenix...just got back from a week there...you'll warm up in a hurry! "Dry heat ...sure."

As desertdeals690 noted, the key is which roof you have. Rubber or fiberglass. Call the coach builder, they can tell you.

What do you mean by "get in the tow mode?" Attaching the base plate to the truck, prepping the toad, hooking up the toad, etc??

Don't know why one of their guys would say that. Based on what I read and talking to fellow RVers, it is the favorite due to no petroleum in it.

What's wrong with 303? No petroleum products, no harm to the tires.

Those darn J O Bs can sure put a glitch in your life style. Since I retired, I am so busy I don't have time for a job. Your day is coming.

Some CGs frown on campers paying for 30 amps and using more than that.

Should work at 47...but not too well. We've had both heat pumps and Aqua Hots in our last two MHs. Even though we have both, we've gotten into the habit of using the AH. Quiet and dependable heat, and if not too cold, don't need the diesel burner.

I had Wally World fix a flat on the D/W's car last week, no road hazard insurance...$10.

One comment regarding fueling. As all know, diesel fuel foams and causes the pump auto shut off to do just that...stop fueling. The last time I refueled at a truck stop using the big nozzle, after the pump auto stopped, I put in 33 more gallons by hand. If I fuel it slowly by hand, I can still usually add about eight gallons after the first shut off before there is too much foam to get any more in the tank.

Exactly. This is a minor issue, but being PC is causing serious problems in other areas.

Does anybody have any idea how much DEF these diesels use as related to fuel burn? I spent 15 minutes on the phone with Detroit Diesel...he had no idea. On the internet, I found that the big tractors (18 wheelers) have a dose rate of about 2%. They use 2% DEF, as an example, 3 gallons of DEF for each 150 gallons of fuel. My DD 13 is 12.8L so I assume it would use about the same amount of DEF as the Cummins ISM/ISX. Thanks.

Another little tid bit of information on the Allison 3000s and 4000s. They are both limited by horsepower and torque only (450/1250 and 650/1950 respectively). There is no tow limit or weight limit you can pull.

Figuring cost per mile would be too scary to even attempt.

Be sure to make reservations. Many of these CGs are open only in the summer and stay very busy.