five

Interesting discussion. I do my own oil changes in both our cars, but don't want to get on a dolly and dump 40 quarts of MH oil into something, then lug it off to Wal Mart to recycle. I lubed our previous DP once, that was enough, not only a huge mess, but I missed a number of zerk fittings. I found a mom and pop diesel shop where I take them the oil (from Sams) and filter. For $65 they change the oi/filter, dispose of both and lube it. Found out later they burn the used oil in a furnace that heats their shop. Another thing I like about this shop is they encourage the customer to walk around the area, watch what they do and will listed to suggestions...like pointing out a hard to find zerk fitting or asking that they be sure to lube both ends of the drive shaft. Our previous AC was on a Spartan, where the last bay, curb side, was a filter bay. I could sit on a stool and change both fuel filters as well as one of the two hydraulic filters. This coach is on a Freightliner, not only does it have three fuel filters, but there is no filter bay and all filters are on the engine...I can't even see them much less change them. I rotate the tires on our cars and did it when we had a dually to haul a big 5th wheel. I can't even imagine working on these tires. I'd need big time tools...jack, wrenches, torque wrench, etc. Plus there is no reason to do anything to them...no need to rotate and, if one is flat, that's what GS Road Service is for. AC has solved the battery maintenance issue...AGMs all around.

They are putting Carefrees on the front door last I heard. However, we can't use ours. When the door is open and the awning is out, the awning hangs down just low enough that the door scrapes under it and locks it's self on the outside of the front (straight ahead of the coach) side of the awning and will not close. That is won't close until I push up on the awning with a stick which frees the door. Ancira had the coach for a day...and "fixed" it...until I tried to use it.

That's what American Coach put on it. FYI, the axles GW are front to rear...17, 20, and 12k. The front carries the most weight and runs the highest TP. Re Brett's comment about wheel clearance...this coach (an AC Eagle) has a 60 degree 'steering angle' (the wording is from AC).

I think we are saying the same thing. The "on/off inside coach" is what I have that turns the AC recepticle on/off in the basement where the engine heat plug is located. In June we swapped an '09 AC Allegiance for a '14 Eagle 45T.

That's what my Dad told me many years ago, "if you can't write a check for it, you don't need it."

Yes, that's what I do...and only then if I can't find it elsewhere due to their very high prices.

Maybe so, Carl. However, if we have to pay what the gubmint pays for stuff we'll have to decide whether to get a new set of tires or just get a new MH.

I would hate to store a MH outside in the hot part of AZ in the summer. Find covered storage if you can...that heat will fry everything.

On my two Fleetwood American Coaches, the switch in the back of the coach that lights up red when turned on only activates the AC receptical in the basement where the plug is located for the engine preheat. That plug must be plugged in or your red switch does nothing. I have a timer I use to turn the preheat on about 5 AM for a 9 AM departure.

That sounds like a good deal! Then you can spend the next two years working out the bugs, and saying to yourself, "why in h##l did the engineers do that???"

You do not "need" to carry a spare. I had a blow out, took four and a half hours to find a tire my size...295/80R22.5... even though we were about 60 miles from Chicago. This size is mostly for MHs, thus not many around. When it comes time to change my current tires (315s on the front and 295s on the rear), I'll check space, and may keep the best of the 295s.

Back to the OP's original question. When parked for a while in the same place, just look around. Here's what I routinely do: - Clean A/C filters. - Put Protect All (or something similar) on all exterior plastic...exterior coach lights, roof vents, solar panels. - Put seam sealer on slide out covers and awnings. - Lube steps and all moving parts. - Tighten all screws on door hinges. Just the part attaching to the door its self were a bit loose. - Clean and lube jacks. - Lube awning arms. - Put 303 on tires. - Put Rejex on windshield. - If a residential refer, vacuum under it. - Start late, quit early...and have a beer.

We had a similar issue on a past MH...a slide was not sealing tightly.

Chassis manufacturers build their chassis totally differently. My last MH was on a Spartan. It had a filter bay, last bay curb side. I could sit on a stool and very comfortably change both engine fuel filters and the external hydraulic filter. Current coach, on a Freightliner, has no filter bay. I can't even see the fuel filters, much less change them.

Carl...there is no longer a need for those of us in this area to go to Decatur. Last month, American Coach bought out the AC dealership (Ancira) in Alvarado, TX, just south of Fort Worth. It is a factory repair business now. For more details you can call AC tech line.

Some maintenance items are easy to do by yourself...like the generator. Others not so much. Get the TranSynd tested annually, as long as the test is good, the trans fluid is good.

Good information, Tireman 9, thanks for posting. I have copied your post and added it to my keepers.

I've done the leg work for this question...gotten weights, compared curb side weights with street side weight, etc. I have rounded up to the next weight increment on the table showing the recommended TPs. My question is how much of a fudge factor should be added to the charted PSI for the rounded up weight? The closest I've gotten for an actual suggestion was to add 10 PSI to the chart weight. FYI, the front two tires are Michelin 315/80R22.5 XZA1s and the rear six are Michelin 295/80R22.5 XZA2. Thanks.

On a previous coach...don't know how this one works...there was a non adjustable thermostat set by the factory for 40 degrees. If the AH was on, either electric or burner, it would automatically run if the basement was below 40. The only way to stop it from running was to shut the entire AH system off.

I carry a 6' ladder...store it in one of the through chassis bays.

From my DD engine manual: "The common belief that idling a diesel causes no engine damage is wrong. Idling produces sulfuric acid, which is absorbed by the lubricating oil and eats into bearings, rings, valve stems, and engine surfaces. If you must idle, the high idle function of the cruise control should be used."

Yes, Lazy Days pricing is high...if you go there be sure to negotiate and do not accept their first offer.

JMHO, of course, but the manufacturers make these engines to perform in a certain manner in certain vehicles. I did not change anything on my last engine (Cummins ISL 400) nor will I change anything on my currrent engine (DD 500). They both do the job fine, plus I have heard too many horror stories from those who have tried to make them more powerful or get better mileage.

Sure, run with the heat on. If really cold, buy a couple of Lasko tower heaters and turn on the generator. I would not attempt I 40 through ABQ, Gallup and Flagstaff at this time of year. You may be fine, then again you may be snowed/iced in. Gallup is 6,500', no telling what you'll run into there.

The hitch rating is only part of the towing equation. The coach and chassis makers will also have a tow rating (some times not the same). Finally, the proper way to compute the tow rating is to take the coach's GCWR and subtract the coach's ready to travel actual weight from it. If you are operating the coach GVWR, take that number and subtract it from the GCWR. The lowest of these four figures is the actual tow capacity.