five

We have some friends with a 20 year old Splendide that need a timer. They are camped in Biloxi, MS, and have tried all the local suppliers, RV dealers, Colaw, etc. Any ideas appreciated.

The problem I see is that if we have a super single and it fails...we have nothing. If an 18 wheeler has a set of super singles and one fails, he still has one to at least get him off the road.

D/W, in this case, is dish washer. However, the D/W (dear wife) has a D/W (dish washer)...me!

We are on our fifth RV, never had a D/W and don't want one. Much rather have the storage space. However, washer/dryer is mandatory.

As noted, maintenance is key. JMHO, Beaver is a class coach, but you are looking at 25 years old...that's pretty old, especially if it's been kept outside.

Here is a list of KIAs by state, all you have to do is click on MO and scroll down the list: http://www.virtualwall.org/iStates.htm

Normally US highways and state roads are okay. Some county roads can be narrow and the trees along the side may scrape your rig.

I don't know about the other manufacturers, but for the 2015 models Honda put the CVT(Continuously Variable Trans) trans in the CRV. They put it in the Accord a few years ago: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission

Coldcowboy, Glad you got your problem solved. As a follow on comment, the GY/Michelin debate is just like a Chevy/Dodge/Ford/ debate. You can read any of these forums, and there are those with GYs that have wear problems and just as many Michelins with dry rot cracks and splits. I don't know how you come to a decision as to which to buy...other than price.

Here's what I did. Called Spartan, got a very knowledgeable and helpful guy. He gave me the specs for both the front and rear axles. Then went to a big rig truck alignment shop. The tech checked the rear, it was WNL, then checked the front...off considerably. He aligned the front and gave me a print out of 'before' and 'after.' Appreciate the help from all.

IMHO, there are two primary problems with a dolly: - It takes considerably longer to get ready to move. When towing four down, you hook up the car and attach the safety and electrical cables...done. - We have stayed in many CGs where there is no space to store a tow dolly. Plus, I don't have any place to store it at home.

Dump the air then put down the jacks. Also, FWIW, most folks believe it is not a good idea to run (idle) a diesel...unless you are really going to run it and take it for drive so all systems get up to operation temperature.

Okay, thanks. I'm in NW AR...Fayetteville/Springdale/Rogers/Bentonville and Fort Smith, is to the south. It's an American Coach on a Spartan chassis, I'll call them in the AM.

Okay, so is it something I should find a shop that is willing to do...is it worth the cost? Any idea what that cost would be?

Talked to another big rig tire/alignment shop on Sat. He said my MH had no way to align the rear wheels...guess he doesn't understand MHs.

I run mine all the time with the engine off, however the ignition key must be on.

Okay, making progress. Went by, without the MH, and talked to the service manager of the big rig alignment place. Since I have independent front suspension, he said he could align the front end fine. However, since then I've been reading about aligning the "thrust line." That is supposed to bring "the rear wheels into coincidence with the vehicles geometric centerline." Then the front wheels are aligned to the identical geometric centerline/thrustline. This results in "total four wheel alignment insuring all wheels being parallel and the steering wheel and the steering geometry being centered as the vehicle moves in a straight line." Translation...it's like four wheel alignment we get on our cars. Is this something normally done on one of these rigs? Appreciate the help.

I have fuse boxes scattered all over. One of my first projects upon acquiring this rig was to locate all fuse boxes, chart where they are and chart what is in every fuse box. Now when I have a 12v issue, I can review my charts rather than spending half a day looking for fuse boxes, then fuses.

Installation depends entirely on the toad. On my first CRV, it took the dealer nearly all day. Today, I dropped my new CRV off at 8 AM...they were not finished by 5 PM. Base plate and associated hardware is major surgery on a CRV.

My Honda lights are on when their counterparts in the MH are on.

Glad you got it solved. I had a problem where one of my A/Cs (I have two) was wired to a sensor for a non existent third A/C. AC builds all their coaches with a complete wiring system so the coach can be outfitted with any options available, and the wiring is already in place. Usually that's a good idea...if everything is properly installed.

The econ mode will help most in rolling country, where the econ mode will keep the Allison in 6th gear rather than down shifting. I think speed is key, from a consumer web site: "While each vehicle reaches its optimal fuel economy at a different speed (or range of speeds), gas mileage usually decreases rapidly speeds above 55 miles per hour. Just slowing down from 65 mph to 55 mph can increase your miles per gallon by as much as 15 percent."

Mine's in a garage. A cover is a royal PITA...hard to put on (how will you get it on the roof?) and take off, have to store it somewhere when gone in the MH, either the MH wears a hole in the cover, or the cover rubs a spot on the MH, if sealed up tight, gets very hot in the summer and moldy during other seasons...depending on where you are. I wouldn't have one. If you can swing it, covered storage is the way to go.

I don't believe in extended warranties. The warranty company is in business to make money. Since they are still in business, that means they are collecting more in premiums than they are paying out in claims. It's a gamble both ways. Like tetonchief above, I have a ''kitty'' for MH repairs...so far I'm ahead.

It would be safer without the propane system and you'd have an extra basement storage compartment.