wolfe10

Carl, Please don't misunderstand. Low 30's is the longest gas chassis I would consider as well. A well built (read that heavily built) 40' on a gas chassis is mind boggling. But, I would hate to see the thread turn into a "Gas vs diesel" or "New vs used". You bet-- all of us who have been around for awhile have strong preferences on both.

I believe you will find that Ford lowered HP rating on all their F53 chassis, but also rated that HP at a lower/more realistic RPM, not one that has the engine screaming. So, not sure there is much difference at "normal" RPM range.

Note: the new redesigned 2016 Civic with manual transmission IS towable 4 wheels down and is in the FMCA Towing Guide.

tregal16, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best bet is to call Michelin: 800 847-3435

Check also with marine repair facilities for the name of a plastic tank manufacturer near you. Lots of boats built in FL-- suspect they are getting their tanks from a nearby provider as they are pretty bulky to ship. Or you could call a boat builder direct. Catalina Yachts in Largo FL, for example: Catalina Yachts 727 544-6681.

Very familiar with both-- first coach had Torsilastic suspension. Sold it with 170,000 miles. Currently driving an Alpine with air suspension (one of the better ones!). Very good suspension when new. Before even considering one, since parts are no longer available, is to verify that RIDE HEIGHT is correct, or that you have enough shims left that can be removed to get you in spec. There is a company that sells an "air over" booster air suspension for the Torsilastic. But would not recommend getting into that unless you are very comfortable working with large vehicle suspensions. Air suspensions are more universally used. Yes, some are better than others, but most would consider air to be superior to Torsilastic.

You are entering a "Brave New World." Please keep us posted on the installation, performance change if any and most critically, it's long-term effect on the engine reliability.

You have done a lot of research. Here are some "thinking out loud" things. Please do NOT take them as "Brett knows this is right/will work." I have NOT researched the issue, but agree with you, fuel system on DP do leave something to be desired. With your modification, I see no reason to mess with the current lift pump-- it will have an easier job now, but no harm in duplication. Be sure to spec the new pump for the correct (both): PSI and volume. Both are important. With those caveats, I like your thinking.

RonBrothers, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you sure it is the floor (can you feel flexing or other signs that it is the floor) or could it be coming from below. Sway bar main and end link bushings come to mind.

Two points: 1. It is NOT recommended to tow a vehicle backwards. Front end geometry was not set up for this. Think of a grocery cart being pulled backwards down the isle vs forward! 2. The reason that towing it backwards is that it is REAR WHEEL DRIVE. You have to get the drive axle off the road.

Primary advantage of a tow dolly is for those who change vehicles often and/or have a vehicle that can not be towed 4 wheels down.

cdubee, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Agree, towing should not blanketly invalidate the vehicle's whole warranty. BUT, were you to have a driveline problem during the 10 year/100,000 mile warranty, things would likely be VERY different.

sdahmer, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what brand and model toilet you have.

I would start by having a good HD truck alignment guy go over the suspension with you. Another option is to have someone else familiar with your coach drive it.

BTW, for those of you who will be at the FMCA Convention in W. Springfield, the Suspension Seminar will be: Suspensions/Coach Ride and Handling Thursday, Aug 4, 1:15 p.m. Seminar 8 (Young Building)

John, First, 70 is well faster than most of us drive, particularly with older coaches. The good news is that your leaf spring suspension is one any spring shop that works on OTR trucks will be very comfortable checking out for you and/or working on. I am not "anti" Sumo Springs, but not sure adding spring rate is what you need. As far as checking, nothing beats a good "crawl under" the coach. Since you are not on air bags that could fail and trap you, you are pretty safe going under there. Check things like sway bar bushings (inexpensive and easy to replace AND a high failure rate item), check spring shackles, U bolts for torque, etc.

If the inverter does not have a built in ATS (usually called "pass through feature), there are two ways to power things by either shore power or inverter. First is with an ATS. The other would be to have separate outlets behind the devices-- and you would manually move them from one outlet to the other. Not familiar with the Sunforce, so do not know how to turn it on/off remotely. But, while plugged in, as long as your converter, or charger is sufficient to provide all your 12 VDC needs AND power the inverter (takes very little unless it is running devices) this may not be a problem. And the inverter, indeed, should be located as close to the house batteries as practical, but NOT in the same compartment (spark danger and sulfuric acid vapor from batteries will ruin the inverter.

John, I am familiar with your chassis, had a 1997 Safari Sahara on Magnum chassis with leaf spring suspension. And I did a reasonable amount of suspension work to it. Lets back up a minute. What are you wanting to change/fix?

Cummins, Caterpillar, Detroit Diesel, etc all have written specs for coolant. It is in the owners manual. All basically the same requirements. Yes, there are a a number of manufacturers of coolants that meet those specs. The only real advantage to using your engine manufacturer's brand that I can see is if you are in their shop for work, they will have the proper (read that what you already have in the system) in there.

I would give Monaco a call so you have a "benchmark" of what a new one would cost. If not, indeed, check with RV Salvage Yards. Here is a link to some:http://community.fmca.com/topic/9361-rv-salvage-parts-list/#comment-64909

Bad freeze plugs (particularly more than one) are VERY rare if the proper coolant is used, changed when called for and SCA/DCA added as necessary if standard low silicate for diesel coolant. But if coolant becomes acidic and/or there is electrolysis (problem with 120 VAC system ground, for example) yes, freeze plugs are the "least strong" part of the engine's part of the cooling system. The good news is that they are relatively inexpensive. I would suggest you get the old ones back and along with the tech/shop foreman try to determine the cause of the failure. Hopefully anyone else with a similar failure can chime in.

True, as long as both systems were designed to work at the same PSI (i.e. full coach air brake line pressure vs proportioned/reduced pressure). I would look at the system on your coach to see what is plumbed and then call SMI to verify that it meets their requirements. Agree, the probably answer is no problem, but better to verify.

From the outside access door, unplug the refrigerator 120 VAC cord and plug in a hair dryer, or other appliance to verify that you do have power. If you do and still won't work on 120 VAC, there is a small fuse in the control box.