wolfe10

Ron, Yes, as stated, 100% of the on-highway (non-red) in the U.S. and I believe in Canada as well is ULSD. So, #2 diesel= ULSD. Other variable is percent of biodiesel. And, do NOT believe that what the pump says or clerk says is what is in their tank right now. In many cases, the percent biodiesel varies by commodity price.

If you have the 4 bad air suspension, your coach could fall just at the end of the Rear Trailing Arm issue, but better to study this and verify that you do not have the dangerously weak ones. If the 8 outboard bag suspension, this does not apply to you: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-issue-monaco-hr-safari-chassis/

Sold our 1993 Foretravel Grand Villa (U240) with 170,000 miles on it. So, yes, know them reasonably well.

movingon06, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I don't have any "secret formula" for finding air leaks on coach systems. I just use a spray bottle with water/kiddie bubbles and a toothbrush (never my own) to apply to all joints and valves. See which one blows bubbles. Takes time, but not rocket science. You can start narrowing it down by whether both gauges go down at the same rate or if their rate of drop is different. Freightliner, Gaffney can provide you with a chart of your air system.

Agree with Tim, If breakers and GFI are OK, check the ignition-controlled relay.

Could be open tank fill valve which would allow water to "recirculate" (that is where I would start), could be air in the system (turn on a faucet and make sure you don't have air in the system), could be bad pressure switch, could be could be a leak in your pressure system.

The tach and speedo are 12 VDC and work off the chassis battery. The ATS is strictly 120 VAC. It is the "selector" between shore power and generator so only a single source of 120 VAC can be used at one time. The only "overlap" between the generator/ATS and the tach and speedo is the inverter/charger. IF (yes IF) it senses voltage provided by the alternator is below the inveter/charger's bulk rate of charge, the inverter/charger will raise the voltage to the batteries. This raises a second issue-- as in many coaches, the inverter/charger ONLY charges the house bank. I do not know if yours is wired for the inverter/charger to also charge the chassis bank.

yj bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While any mechanical device can fail, loosing a turbo on any diesel engine is unusual. When they pull it, be sure they check the oiled passages for signs of coking. Certainly possible that the OE was not a diligent as you in allowing the turbo to cool down before shutting down the engine. That will kill any turbo. Please keep us posted on what they find.

Yes, on either high or low (3 or all 6 cylinders) engine compression brake, the Allison does downshift toward the "preselect gear"/the gear indicated in the only window of single window shift pads or the left window of two window shift pads. When using the compression brake to come to a stop, I always use high. I use low only for fine-tuning speed of descent on long grades-- just gives one more option on amount of braking HP.

Eskerbahn, What brand are your gas springs? And, as suggested most are just "push back down", but yours could have a positive lock mechanism.

We need to be careful here-- some "apples vs oranges" comparisons. Different engines have different RPM limits. Basically, the larger the displacement, the longer the stroke, the slower the engine turns. "Piston feet/minute" has always been the prime determinant. No different than a gasoline engine. Safe operating RPM for the GM 8.1 liter V8 is lower than the Ford 6.8 liter V10.

Most engines have two different "how fast can I safely rev the engine": Under load, aka governed RPM. Overspeed/under no load/coasting/engine braking. This is usually a couple of hundred RPM higher than the safe speed while the engine is working hard. Give your engine manufacturer a call with you engine serial number to determine these numbers for your engine. I suspect (please confirm) that 2200 overspeed/no load is not a problem for your ISL. Cummins 800 343-7357

To check for diagnostic codes: Ignition on/engine OFF. Push up and down arrows on the shift pad at the same time. It will bring up OL (a way to check oil level if engine running and transmission up to temperature). Not relevant for you at this time. Push up and down arrows again. This brings you to diagnostic codes. d-1 will be followed by a code. If no code, it will show d-1 - -. If there is a d-1, push mode button to go to d-2... When you have recorded all the codes, just turn off the ignition.

gayleking, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Assume you have the Allison 3000 series transmission. If so, the controls are electronic. What does the shift pad indicate when this occurs: 6 or N? Have you checked for diagnostic codes using the shift pad-- instructions in your Allison manual, or we can post them here. What does your dash voltmeter show: normally/when this occurs?

cre38sse39, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are quite a number of different ways these systems can be plumbed. On many, they are self priming once the reservoir is filled (pump fed by gravity from the reservoir). Check with your chassis maker to verify how your system is laid out.

If you are one of 50,000+ participants on the FMCA Forum come put a "face with that screen name". Mark your Convention Calendar: Forum Meet & Greet Time: Thursday, Aug 4, 5:00 p.m. Place: Seminar 8 (Young Building) Look forward to seeing you there.

With the "standard truck"/front engine, the CAC is in front of the radiator. Follow the large-diameter hose from turbo to CAC and CAC to intake manifold.

Just a quick update: Only 8 sites left for the Diesel RV Club Rally. If you want to learn more about the "care and feeding" of a diesel powered motorhome, a very good investment of your time. As much or more directed to those who do NOT do their own work as to gear heads. It is about what you need to do to minimize cost of ownership and minimize breakdowns. I will be presenting the three half day maintenance seminars. For more information: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2161811 You can also download the Activity Schedule from that page.

In a word, you will be just fine. Your Caterpillar 3126 has 330 HP and more importantly 860 lb-ft of torque at 1,440 RPM. Combined with your Allison 3000 transmission it is more than adequate. As with any machine, you will want to insure that all systems are in top condition before the trip. Be sure this includes cleaning the front of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). Failure to do so is the most common cause of overheating in a rear radiator DP. If you are not familiar with the "care and feeding" of a DP, might be a good idea to have someone who is go over the coach with you before the trip.

Yup, as already said, you need to find out what each of those "black, white and bare wires" were connected to/plugged into. And, most 30 amp house outlets are TWO hots and a ground. That would put 240 VAC into any of your 120 VAC appliances what were on.

Suggest you get out your voltmeter and check. The "black, white and bare" is exactly what you need/should be no problem if properly wired. Check at any "regular" house-type outlet in the RV. The short straight is the hot. Long straight is neutral. Round is ground. So: Short straight to long straight= 120 VAC Short straight to round= 120 VAC Long straight to round= 0 VAC

Robc1977, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Find out if he wired the plug as a 240 VAC: 2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground. If so, likely you did quite a bit of damage to your RV's electrical system-- anything that was running. An RV 30 amp is: 1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground.

To answer the "do some coaches have 240 VAC appliances?" VERY, VERY rare. Just as at your house, most all appliances use only one hot, so they are 120 VAC. But water heaters, some stoves, etc can be 240 VAC on larger coaches. Again, no different than in a house.