wolfe10

bakers909, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. No problem-- just pull up to any diesel pump (though I prefer not to use biodiesel). In writing, Caterpillar as well as Cummins, DD, etc all state that ULSD is backwards compatible with all their engines.

Tom, I do exactly as you do, use http://then.gasbuddy.com/ I enter a city on my route that I will reach with 3/4 tank of fuel (the shortest distance I am willing to make a stop for). Then click on "MAP". Reset it to diesel (or whatever fuel you use-- default is regular unleaded). Scroll along our route for the day/next couple of days. Can scroll a couple of hundred miles in 2-3 minutes. Click on a station what shows a good price. IMPORTANT: Copy and paste the address of that potential station into Google Maps. Use both "earth view" and "street view" to verify that the station is "RV friendly. And often, the street view will even be detailed enough to allow you to locate the diesel pumps (either additional hose and nozzle or diesel powered vehicle in photo). In the days of $.03-.05 per gallon difference, it was not worth the effort. But, today you can save $.25-.30 per gallon. Well worth the effort.

Mike, Have you checked for dirt, dust, debris or personal gear obstructing air flow to the Inverter? Particularly if in a basement, easy to get restricted air flow. And, does this happen only when inverting or also when you are on shore power and inverter/charger is charging the batteries and passing through 120 VAC?

We have the Roadmaster Invisibrake on our current toad as well as our last one. Really like that there is no big BOX or anything to set up or adjust. If you change toads often, probably not a good choices, as there is labor involved in installing it (complete installation is hidden once complete).

RSRCLR, First, welcome to the FMCA Forum. I forwarded your post to the chief designer for Roadmaster and his recommendation is to contact: Scott @ Source he might be able to give him some guidance. http://www.rv-chassis.com/

If the toad battery is questionable, fully charge it and have any auto parts house/Walmart load test it.

Yes, if the warning light is ONLY for indication that parking brake is on, it is most likely the pressure switch-- not expensive or difficult. Check with your chassis maker for correct PN. BUT, verify that the light is also not an ABS or brake failure light as well. Again your chassis maker can tell you what faults will trigger what light.

It is very important when you store you coach to have a full tank to minimize condensation. Reasons to "live off the top half of your fuel tank": Most DP fuel tanks are well forward, where they help with weight distribution-- always an issue on a DP with so much weight in back. With most gray and black tanks in back, they detract from better weight distribution. Modern diesel engine are "high bypass". For every gallon of fuel that goes to the engine, you only burn an ounce or two. The remainder is used to lube and cool injector and engine parts and returns to the fuel tank. Cool fuel is better. Next time you drive on the lower half of the tank on a hot day, reach under and touch the fuel tank-- it WILL be hot. Weight is an important factor on fuel consumption on grades-- not so on flat ground where aerodynamic drag is by far the largest factor. Let's see the percent increase in weight by carrying 300 pounds more on a 30,000 pound coach: ya, 1%. Not significant.

I am lost and confused. Did I stumble into FACEBOOK or is this still the FMCA Forum???

I feel your pain! I am in the middle of replacing/upgrading 4 hydraulic lines to the rear slide on our coach. A LOT of "under the coach" time. Bad news-- showers using dawn! Good news-- upgraded the whole system.

EXCELLENT. Good job in diagnosing and repairing.

leochris, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is no simple answer. Dealers DO make money on financing. You will have to weight the additional discount you are able to negotiate for financing with the dealer vs the interest rate difference between dealer and outside financing. And, this could certainly vary dealer to dealer.

GR, Yes, an "opinion question". So, my opinion is that they should do the update kit for the Jeep to make it safe to tow. It was represented that it WAS safe to tow when purchased. But, many newer models require a charge line from coach to toad, particularly those with electric auxiliary brakes. IMO, this is not FCA's responsibility. Here is how to do it: In-line fuse at both coach chassis battery and toad battery. 8 gauge wire from each battery to either separate plug or incorporate it into a toad plug with more prongs. You will also run an 8 gauge wire from coach chassis ground to toad battery negative. Can use a heavy gauge separate 2 wire connector or as mentioned above incorporate it into a male/female toad plug with more prongs. If you often dry camp and sometimes do not disconnect the toad electrical connection, the above set up can continue to drain chassis battery. An easy modification is to use a 40 amp relay (under $10 at any auto parts house). Come off the chassis battery, through the in-line fuse to the relay. Use an ignition hot source to close the relay to send power to the toad. Now, it will only charge when the coach ignition is on. If you do it yourself, total cost should be under $25.

Let me clarify-- with air brakes: The parking brake/emergency brake is SPRING APPLIED, air pressure released generally on the two drive axle brakes. So, yes, if you pull the emergency brake knob, it sets the brake (actually bleeds off air pressure that pushes against the spring. Loss of air pressure-- same thing, the spring which applies the brake is not overcome by air pressure. The only way air in the tank will apply the brakes is if you step on the service brakes. Yes, front and rear service brakes (brake pedal) are air applied. So, front brakes are ONLY air pressure applied. The drive axle brakes have two separate "cans" to apply brakes: one can applies brakes with air pressure (just as is done in front). The other can (for the parking brake) is spring applied, air released.

Link to coach: http://winnebagoind.com/products/class-a-diesel/2015/forza/overview Link to chassis: http://www.fcccrv.com/coaches/ Click on 2016 Forza 38R. Here is a brief overview with the key components : You have an engine driven air compressor. Air goes from it to the air dryer where moisture and oil are removed. From the air dryer to storage tanks. Likely you have two ride height valves on the rear axle and one on the front that control air to the air bags. You will have additional components depending on whether you have jacks or air leveling.

Sure, I just use an old Rubbermade storage container. Walmart, etc. Line with two black trash sacks so it doesn't get oil on it.

Ability to negotiate mountains in a heavy vehicle depends on TWO factors: The vehicle (including things like mechanical condition, presence of exhaust or engine compression brake, etc). Experience of the driver in mountain conditions. And, actually the second is the more critical. Hopefully others can give you road conditions, but we do not know your experience in mountains with a heavy vehicle. Let us know, and if you are not experienced, perhaps we can offer insights that will shorten the learning curve. So, please let us know what coach you have (along with engine/presence of exhaust brake or engine compression brake) AND your experience in mountain driving in a heavy vehicle.

Gary, Walmarts and auto parts stores accept used oil. I buy oil in gallon containers (6 gallons for our Cummins ISL). Use a funnel and old coffee can to decant from old Rubbermade "drain container" to gallon jugs. Put gallon jugs back in 6 gallon cardboard box and drop off. Never had a problem in 15 years of doing this.

WayBro, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Slight correction. Yes, you need to comply with the licensing requirements of your home state. BUT, there is reciprocity of licensing between states. Said another way, if you are legal in your home state, you are good in other states. What is different state to state are things like speed limits, weight limits on some highways and bridges, etc.

Sflute, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Try these folks: http://sourcerv.com/radiators

Rick, Please tell us what coach you have.

While room in basement side to side may be an issue, I think an equally important issue is that manufacturers do not trust (not sure they are incorrect) that the American public KNOWS not to put DEF in the diesel tank (which quickly destroys the engine/injection system). If not physically possible to put DEF in the diesel tank-- less risk.

Glad you and Roger connected. He is a retired machinist and is probably the most knowledgeable on this system. The fact that he offers free advice to Forum members is a real asset.

Tim makes an excellent point. Do the basics FIRST. Make sure everything is operating as it should before looking for expensive/aftermarket solutions. I present the Suspension Seminar at the FMCA Conventions. Spend the first 20 minutes going over these basics. Things like proper tire pressure for your actual weights, checking for worn components, proper lubrication, etc ARE where to start.

Sam, We need your help here. It is difficult for those who have been to multiple Conventions/Rallies to know what needs to be covered in the First Timer's Orientation. If you recall, what WAS covered. And, much, much more critically; having just attended your first Convention/Rally, what SHOULD have been covered. Said differently, what would have helped you to have a more productive/fun first Convention/Rally. Please take your time with this-- it is an important "homework assignment". Thanks in advance.