wolfe10

beachtraveler9, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Surge Protectors are sized based on your coach's wiring. So, if 30 amp, that is what you would buy. If 50, that is what you would buy. Adapters take care of getting "other amperage" CG shore power to your surge protector and then coach.

If leaking hydraulic hose, should be no problem getting one made up there.

klhldh, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Ideally, you will have the same percent of GAWR on each axle. Currently, yours are: Front 95.3 Drive 95.0 Tag 73.2 Using the tag axle adjustment to sift weight off the front axle would remove even more weight from the (already underloaded) tag axle. So not recommended. Moving your personal gear or traveling with less variable weights (such as potable water) that are forward are your only options.

Welcome home, Bill. We missed you.

RIDE HEIGHT needs to be adjusted. There are two ride height valves in back (that is your side to side adjustment) and one in front. Simple job. Freightliner can give you the specs/measurements.

Ya, at night, it is easier for a good A/C to experience temperatures below 32 degrees IF, repeat IF no freeze/temperature sensor. And, with HIGH humidity. there is lots of condensate. I can attest to that as of right this minute: Dew point 78 degrees F.

Particularly in humid condition, the evaporator can freeze up. Check with Coleman to see if you have a freeze sensor on the evaporator. And, running fan on high speed will minimize the icing/dripping.

There is a "master 12 VDC switch" near the door , often referred to as the "salesman switch" since it allows all lights to be left on, and turned off/on at the master switch. Are you plugged into shore power? Do the roof A/C's work?

Bob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We can certainly speculate on why most dealers do not have the scales, but probably won't do us much good. These are the same portable scales used by most states DOT's and are several thousand dollars each (need 2).

daniel92870, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Just to clarify, is it the 12 VDC things that do not work (water pump, most lights, etc) or is it the 120 VAC side that does not work (roof A/C, etc). If the 12 VDC and the batteries are good, check that the salesman switch (by the door) is ON.

While I agree that size leak is not dangerous, were it mine, I would want to find and fix it. Guess different standards of what is acceptable.

Good thought. Exhaust leaks are pretty easy to identify on a diesel. LOTS of black soot around the leak! Check head to exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold itself and manifold to turbo.

redline8300, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. 10 PSI of boost at WOT is no where near enough. Assume you have checked your air intake and air filter for bird nests, wet filter element, or other severe restriction. What is your air filter minder reading. Next would be to check for a leaking boot or gasket, then check the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) for leaks. Give the Caterpillar RV Hotline a call (877 777-3126). Don't know that they will have service people working over the weekend. But certainly on Monday you can confirm proper boost and they can also tell you what the 232.4 code is (I don't have my manuals handy).

Wayne, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I am curious-- how do you power your auxiliary brake/what auxiliary brake do you use that does not require 12 VDC?

Agreed, Likely either cable left off or not properly tightened. As Byron said, best advice is to label all wires/cables and make a wiring diagram AND take a picture of it.

Hopefully, someone can answer your question, but not sure it is relevant. Since you have SOME freon, the only way to reasonably add freon is with gauges. They will tell when the system is working properly. Ya, I guess they could let out all your existing freon and then add the full amount, but doubt any competent automotive A/C shop would do that (or that you would want to pay for that).

NO, do not use wax, rubbing compound, etc on vinyl decals. 303 Aerospace IS the correct thing-- both for restoring looks and giving them some UV protection.

Just a point of clarification: Like many coach makers Country Coach did NOT build one quality/price range coach. There was a more than a 100% difference if price between their low and high end/conversion coaches. Kind of discussing the quality of a Ford-- Lincoln and Fiesta are both Ford products.

The quoted statement IS true-- no surprise that a 2-5 your old top of the line coach is more than a mid line new coach. Same with cars, boats, houses..... But, not sure the statement has any relevance to your search for an 8-10 year old high end coach.

Toad1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are two types of battery isolators: Solenoid-base/relay based Diode based. Follow the large gauge wire from alternator B+ and you will find it. When the salesman switch is on, does the house battery bank die as well as chassis battery?

Alternator reading at the chassis battery should be 13.5-14.2 VDC. Because the dash gauge is WAY "downstream" of the batteries, it may not be an accurate reading. A check with a digital voltmeter at the battery and then a quick look at the gauge should tell you how accurate the gauge is. That way, you can factor in a "fudge factor".

Ron, Yes, as stated, 100% of the on-highway (non-red) in the U.S. and I believe in Canada as well is ULSD. So, #2 diesel= ULSD. Other variable is percent of biodiesel. And, do NOT believe that what the pump says or clerk says is what is in their tank right now. In many cases, the percent biodiesel varies by commodity price.

If you have the 4 bad air suspension, your coach could fall just at the end of the Rear Trailing Arm issue, but better to study this and verify that you do not have the dangerously weak ones. If the 8 outboard bag suspension, this does not apply to you: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-issue-monaco-hr-safari-chassis/

Sold our 1993 Foretravel Grand Villa (U240) with 170,000 miles on it. So, yes, know them reasonably well.

Let's clarify "sub-panel". It is the preferred way (not least expensive) to wire an inverter/charger. There is an inverter breaker on the main 120 VAC breaker panel. Call that "120 VAC IN". Then 120 VAC output from the inverter/charger (yes, assuming yours is both-- therefore an inverter/charger) then goes to the sub-panel. The main breaker on that panel is the "IN from the inverter/charger. Then, each circuit that can be powered from the inverter has a breaker on that sub-panel. The other alternative is that the inverter/charger 120 VAC output just goes through breakers on the inverter/charger and then directly to circuits it powers. American coach can give you details on how yours is wired.