wolfe10

Andy, Yes, it applies to your C13 Caterpillar. Basic warm up for ALL modern diesel engines (certainly all in last 15 years): Yes, it takes a bit of common sense. Warm up time should certainly be different if you are parked in a Flying J at a freeway entrance VS in a CG where you will be operating at low speeds for 5-10 minutes before really getting into the throttle. Start engine. After 30 or so seconds, raise to high idle (1000 RPM or so). Once air pressure is built/you have completed your walk around, you are ready to start driving-- at low speeds/low throttle positions. I don't like to really get into the throttle too much until coolant temperature is over 150 degrees F. So, depending on ambient temperature and how far you are from where you really need to get into the throttle, warm up time can (and should) vary quite a bit. Same for shut down. If you have driven on low speed streets, checked into a CG, etc when you get to your site, you can shut down immediately. If you just pulled a long up-grade and are in a "scenic overlook" at the top, let it idle for 3-4 minutes. Again, just common sense.

Absolutely correct. And, this applies to any modern diesel engine, not just Cummins.

Rheevs, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here is a popular reasonably compact one from Lowes: http://www.lowes.com/pd_57655-30449-0200382_1z10d76Z1z140vv__?productId=4686711&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1

I can't see how you could generate 20 PSI of boost with the hose off. Easy to test. Warm up the engine. Turn it off. Pull the hose off and drive one mile or less, going to WOT at higher RPM. As long as full air pressure was built before turning off the engine, unlikely the compressor will even run at all. See what kind of boost you get. Again, I am just speculating on this (presence of boost= no problem.

Yes, if driven with that hose off, there could be serious issues. But, I am still trying to picture how you could drive with no boost-- just can't do it. So, let me ask you-- did you have a SERIOUS drop in power? If so, for how long? That will give you an indication of whether you need to change oil immediately, etc.

Guess I am confused. If that is the supply hose for the air compressor it is taking clean, PRESSURIZED air (turbo boost) from the intake manifold. If that hose was off, I can't see how you would be able to build boost. In other words the engine would have VERY little power.

Breeze2, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You might give contact Michelin directly: http://www.michelinman.com/US/en/help/contact.html

Depending on model year, there are two terms that will give you an idea of carrying capacity. CCC and NCC are the two terms. The stickers are sometimes in view, and sometimes in cabinets. The terms will be defined on the sticker. Two slightly different ways to giving you an idea of how much of your "stuff" you can add before exceeding the design specs of an RV. Example, our 38' Alpine (two axle) has a CCC of 4024 pounds. That 4024 pounds is capacity in ADDITION TO full fuel, LP, potable water and 924 pounds for people (done by sleeping positions of 6 times 154 pounds). Fully loaded with our gear, we are still well under GVWR and axle ratings.

Have you verified 120 VAC in from the main breaker box to the inverter and inverter breakers reset?

Tag axles are used when two axles will not adequately carry the weight of an RV. So, yes, length, weight and "toys" make the difference.

The only risk is if you try to run any of your appliances on less than about 12.2 VDC. Some of the PC boards are not forgiving of low power. And, as long as you are mostly plugged in, if a battery or two goes bad, the remaining pair may serve your needs until next year. Another option if all the batteries are bad, since you are plugged in would be to buy a reasonably inexpensive 12 VDC marine battery for the house duties over the winter.

What make and model inverter? What is failing/not working?

Actually, climbing a grade at Wide Open Throttle and high RPM demands the most fuel flow. So, this is where a restriction would first show up.

I know of no bad engines in the last decade. Much of engine preference comes down to one of two things: 1. "Ford vs Chevy" type debates. 2. Engine size/HP/torque (with bigger generally being better) And engine compression brake= jake brake. More effective in braking HP than an exhaust brake or variable vane turbo. Found only on larger engines.

DDEC: Detroit Diesel Electronic Control (DDEC) system. ISL: Cummins 8.9 liter engine. 370-400 HP. Most 1,200 lb-ft torque. Can have either engine compression brake or exhaust brake. ISB: Cummins engine. Early ones 5.9 liter. Later ones 6.7 liter. Cummins smallest engine used in motorhomes Properly cared for, the diesel engine will outlast the coach.

DD is Detroit Diesel. What other abbreviations would you like "translated"?

bchallal, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. More details would insure a better answer, but in general: An inverter is not needed for a motorhome to run. But most are inverter/CHARGERS. So if the batteries are charged, you can indeed start it. And the alternator will keep the batteries charged while driving. And, a converter, particularly a smart converter will keep the batteries charged, but will likely require some coach re-wiring as most coaches with inverter/chargers run certain circuits through the inverter/charger.

Actually, in those steep, rolling hills, vary your speed A LOT-- on purpose. Gain speed going down and "trade it" for elevation on the steep up-grade.

Carl, You do not want to add minerals to the coolant. Filtered water can still have high mineral content. Suspect your engine owners manual (coolant section) gives actual specs for how much (actually how little) minerals the water should contain.

Carl, IMPORTANT-- do nothing until you call your chassis maker with your VIN. They will tell you what coolant is in there (unless you have changed it). Many coolants are NOT compatible! If you verify that the level is low, safest is to add distilled water. Later, if your freeze point is too high, you can drain some and add concentrate (of the correct product).

Those hills outside of Branson are short, but quite steep. Sure, check for junk in primary fuel filter and look at boost next time you drive, but bottom line is they ARE very steep. Been there done that.

What is your destination in Mexico? That will help you hook up with others headed south.

kytruckerman, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Let's start with two questions-- your hitch is rated for 3,600 pounds. What does the Dakota quad cab weigh? And, does the weight of the loaded motorhome and Dakota fall under the GCWR?

Rick, Sorry, don't know anyone out that way. We are still in Wisconsin-- procrastinating heading back to Texas until it starts cooling off!

Thanks, Steve. That is indeed good news. Wish Texas would adopt something like that. And, looking at what Dianne spent in Madison over the last 10 days, a VERY wise move economically for Wisconsin!