wolfe10

Ron, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Can you read a brand name on the wiper arm? Dyna? Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226

Actually, I (and the towing equipment manufacturers) recommend against ever backing with the toad attached. Way too easy to do a lot of damage to the toad and towing equipment.

Depends on the price. At some price, "AS IS" is reasonable and just fine. At some higher price, some kind of a warranty/service policy may be reasonable. As you mention, there is no "remaining" original warranty on a coach of that age, though there could be the remainder of some kind of extended service policy (verify that it is transferable).

Steve, I can't comment on Wisconsin law (we are "foreigners" from Texas enjoying your wonderful summer temperatures), but can tell you that in many states, the vehicle dealers have successfully lobbied their state legislatures to pass laws making it very difficult/impossible for out of state dealers to sell vehicles within their state. Certainly that can have a negative effect on number of dealers/coaches at an event. Hopefully someone familiar with this aspect of Wisconsin laws can comment.

Sorry, I do not know the answer to that question. Have you confirmed that the Nelson filter is 25 micron, or is that from a manual?

This should be the appropriate Wix cross reference: http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/InterchangeMultiSearch.aspx?q=84101B&o=me http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=1751920

gracercurt, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what chassis you have. Have you had the axles weighted? If not enough weight on the tag, the brakes could lock up even if the brakes are working as designed.

To my knowledge, this filter is NOT on your chassis/engine. But, you can certainly call Freightliner with your VIN to confirm. Here is the information that I have: Cummins Fuel Strainer: Every Cummins ISB02 RV from FCCC since 9/2002 has a fuel strainer/filter on frame rail: 025-RAC 10. http://www.freightlinerchassisownersclub.org/PDF/ISB02_Fuel_Strainer.pdf

From the Caterpillar Engine Maintenance Handout: Biodiesel – Use ASTM D6751 or DIN 51606 specification • Limited storage life • Less BTU content (5 – 7%) than regular diesel • Allowable Blend – Up to 30% for engines built prior to 1/1/2007 – Engines built on or after 1/1/2007: » Up to 5% for C7 and C9 » Up to 20% for C13 and C15

dutchstar3812, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Three choices I see for repair: 1. Continue to grease them very frequently and only replace (replace ball joints, not just boots) when they develop play. 2. Do #1 and install a "makeshift" boot without disassembling the front end. 3. Replace the ball joints now. Not sure it would be worth the labor of just replacing the boots on 11 year old ball joints. And, yes, Spartan would be the one I would ask for shop recommendations.

With your "no 120 VAC where you store it, best answer is to get a reasonable size solar panel and smart controller (voltage regulator) hooked to your house batteries. Then verify that your battery combiner in your BCC is charging your chassis batteries.

Actually the question is a little more complex than that. VW does not officially approve towing of any of their vehicles 4 wheels down. But, many tow VW's with manual transmissions 4 wheels down. Two issues-- one mechanical, the other legal often lead to customer confusion.

phogel, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I see the two (chassis battery discharge/ house battery discharge) as unrelated. There are enough parasitic draws on the chassis batteries that they CAN discharge over a two week period. All the computers-- engine, transmission, radios, etc are in "standby mode" so that as soon as you turn the key they are ready to go. And, even with no electric loads on, the inverter in standby mode will discharge the house batteries over that time period. Strongly suggest you find some means of charging the batteries while in storage as well as turning off the inverter of course. Let us know if you have 120 VAC where you store it and we can make recommendations on that. If not, solar is a good choice. Would need to know if your chassis battery is charged from shore power, and if so how (separate charger or something like the Xantrex Echo Charger).

David, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, an AIR ADMITTANCE VALVE is a common item and good way to vent sinks. They are available in most box stores. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-ABS-PTC-In-Line-Cheater-Vent-39012/100204205

kenny58, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You have lost vacuum to the dash HVAC control. The "default" position for the vents is DEFROST. Is this a gas coach (engine supplied vacuum) or diesel (separate electric vacuum pump)?

F432216, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You might start by taking a few minutes to scroll through this "Buying a Motorhome" section. Extended service policies are an often-discussed topic. My personal view of any insurance policy is to cover thing I am not able or willing to risk myself. So, a look at the coach, chassis and appliance warranties to see what is covered for free would be an excellent place to start.

The two are so VERY different in size, mechanicals, build quality, etc that it would be difficult to understand that both could make your short list. Said another way, I can see either hitting someone's short list, but to have both on it suggests you have not determined what fits YOUR needs best. My recommendation is to spend time sitting in, crawling around and just generally getting a better "feel" for choices on your short list.

One more recommendation: Do not let the detergent/Simple Green Extreme on the CAC or radiator long enough that it dries on the surface. That will not help in dissolving or removing the grease.

That is just fine.

Interesting??? Give them a call:Cummins 800 343-7357 Please let us know what you learn.

Sorry for the strange font, but this is a "copy and paste" from my Diesel Maintenance Presentation for the Diesel RV Club: •Cummins: •Allowable Blend •Up to 5% (B5) for all engines •Up to 20% (B20) for engines EPA ‘02 and later •Additional information available: •http://cumminsengines.com/biodiesel-faq

Emery, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A sticks and bricks house has the grounding only at the main breaker box. Since your RV plugged into your house or a CG is merely an "extension of that", the neutral and ground are NOT tied together. Said another way, the neutrals in your RV only go to the neutral buss and neutral connection of your shore power cord. The grounds only go to the ground buss in your RV and ground connection on your shore power cord. The exception is on some inverters-- wire them per manufacturer's instructions.

Tony, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While changing fuel filters is a good maintenance practice, I doubt they are the cause of your overheating. Contact your chassis maker for the location of your fuel filters. And, yes, many Freightliner chassis do have three filters. As far as overheating, you might read through this thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/288-cleaning-the-radiator-cac/

kmx888, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are a few dump stations, but will also have pump out trucks if you don't want to move the coach.

Roger, Don't know the area, but tell us what time of day you will be coming through that area-- may make a real difference in best route.