wolfe10

Make sure your electrician understands that a 30 RV outlet is 120 VAC, not 240 VAC. Said another way, ONE hot, one neutral and one ground. Very different from home stove or dryer 30 amp wiring.

adrainey, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Actually, you are cleaning the FRONT of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). That is where the vast majority if the dirt will be. Might want to look through this thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/288-cleaning-the-radiator-cac/

You will see opinions on both sides of this issue. Personally, we have always (3 coaches, 15 years) with the jacks down. Zero problems.

Correct, no intake manifold heater-- it has glow plugs.

Gmac, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. GMAC with a Ford?? Pull out the alignment specs from when you had the Ford aligned. Are front and right caster at the very high end of spec? That should help a lot.

Dan, What brand are the mirrors?

First thing I would do is check voltage out of the voltage out of the dash light resistor. Also verify good ground on the lights.

Quite likely the front right brake caliper is not releasing. A common issue unless you have cleaned and lubed the caliper slide area recently. Any auto parts house should have caliper slide grease. If overheated, you need to make sure that the disk and caliper as well as pads are OK. If you need to replace pads, be sure to do both fronts.

genesoda, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The FMCA Towing Guides are based on the manufacturer's official position on towing 4 wheels down AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION. Yes, there have been a few vehicles where the manufacturer has changed their recommendations, and some where the decision is based on liability concerns rather than engineering/mechanical ones.

Call the Caterpillar RV Engine Hotline with your engine serial number: 877 777-3126. We could speculate, but engine production date, not chassis or coach date determine what the engine is.

Keith, While I have never done that (the thought of being in the engine room with the engine and fan running kind of scares me. If you decide to do it, make sure that you do NOT allow the soap to dry out on the CAC or radiator. So, do not have the engine up to operating temperature if you decide to do it.

Source Engineering.

John, Follow the shore power cord into the coach. The ATS will be between where the shore power cord enters the coach and the main coach 120 VAC breaker box.

Paul, Exactly where on the LP tank does that line originate? Most propane tanks are just vented to atmosphere-- a large diameter hose extending down a couple of inches below the propane tank, which is in a vented/open compartment.

RUN-OUT is very easy to determine with a run-out gauge. With the tire off the ground, place the run-out gauge wheel on the tire. Slowly rotate the tire to determine the place with the least run-out. Zero the gauge. Rotate the tire and read the maximum run-out. Takes maybe 3 minutes per tire. https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=AwrB8pmJ6tlVmWMAYR4unIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTIydTcwanNnBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZANiODlkN2QyMjVhYTk1MjY3YzYyNDRiYmYwZTBiZjMyNQRncG9zAzEEaXQDYmluZw--?.origin=&back=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fyhs%2Fsearch%3Fp%3DTire%2BRunout%2BGauge%26fr%3Dyhs-mozilla-001%26hsimp%3Dyhs-001%26hspart%3Dmozilla%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D1&w=1200&h=900&imgurl=www.successfuldealer.com%2Ffiles%2F2011%2F06%2FKlineTireGaugeRadial.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.successfuldealer.com%2Ftire-runout-gauge%2F&size=998.0KB&name=%3Cb%3ETire+Runout+Gauge%3C%2Fb%3E&p=Tire+Runout+Gauge&oid=b89d7d225aa95267c6244bbf0e0bf325&fr2=&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&tt=%3Cb%3ETire+Runout+Gauge%3C%2Fb%3E&b=0∋=21&no=1&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=11ia91s4g&sigb=13v8j9gl9&sigi=11vd13mk8&sigt=10o5oc8q4&sign=10o5oc8q4&.crumb=BMO93GsErs5&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=mozilla

Several things: Rotate tire on wheel Loosen lug nuts and position high spot at top and retighten lug nuts. True tires-- yes this IS still done and is the ultimate answer if the above don't work. Of course, another option is to replace the tire.

We may be comparing apples to oranges comparing a PU to a DP. With very rare exception, those on this forum with diesels have larger diesels installed in the rear (Diesel Pushers). Adding HP adds heat and cooling on DP's is already marginal on those long grades. Also, many transmissions are at their HP/torque max without adding power.

Actually, I would want them to start by checking RUN-OUT. If over about .035" correct that. Then balance both front tires on the coach. I would verify they can do both of these before driving over there.

Yes, all you have to do is buy a 12 VDC clearance light and you will need to splice it to the existing wires. There will be a positive and a ground wire. Use butt connectors.

F424754, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. No trouble at all. Just make sure the new ones are 12 VDC and be aware that they are polarity sensitive.

OK, Carl, you have me stumped there. Front AND steering axle? Must be driving one of these: http://www.fotolog.com/buses_mexico/48215728/ A truly awesome bus-- have seen two converted to RV's.

If you have a means of keeping the chassis batteries charged (shore power, solar, etc), yes it is better to leave them connected. But, better to disconnect them than to let them deeply discharge/go dead.

Absolutely wheel bearings may need adjustment. And, a dial indicator is needed for DP-size wheels. General specs are .001-.005" play.

Don't think I would to this a PREVENTIVE maintenance because of the cost. But, if you have to remove the hub for any reason, I would sure consider doing it. Probably 90% of the OTR trucks and trailers use oil bath lubed bearings.

Dale, Go here: http://graphical.weather.gov/sectors/pacnorthwest.php#tabs You can also change regions. You can scroll through the next week, checking for temperatures, precipitation (including show accumulation), wind strength and direction. etc.