wolfe10

Gmac, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. GMAC with a Ford?? Pull out the alignment specs from when you had the Ford aligned. Are front and right caster at the very high end of spec? That should help a lot.

Dan, What brand are the mirrors?

First thing I would do is check voltage out of the voltage out of the dash light resistor. Also verify good ground on the lights.

Quite likely the front right brake caliper is not releasing. A common issue unless you have cleaned and lubed the caliper slide area recently. Any auto parts house should have caliper slide grease. If overheated, you need to make sure that the disk and caliper as well as pads are OK. If you need to replace pads, be sure to do both fronts.

genesoda, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The FMCA Towing Guides are based on the manufacturer's official position on towing 4 wheels down AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION. Yes, there have been a few vehicles where the manufacturer has changed their recommendations, and some where the decision is based on liability concerns rather than engineering/mechanical ones.

Call the Caterpillar RV Engine Hotline with your engine serial number: 877 777-3126. We could speculate, but engine production date, not chassis or coach date determine what the engine is.

Keith, While I have never done that (the thought of being in the engine room with the engine and fan running kind of scares me. If you decide to do it, make sure that you do NOT allow the soap to dry out on the CAC or radiator. So, do not have the engine up to operating temperature if you decide to do it.

Source Engineering.

John, Follow the shore power cord into the coach. The ATS will be between where the shore power cord enters the coach and the main coach 120 VAC breaker box.

Paul, Exactly where on the LP tank does that line originate? Most propane tanks are just vented to atmosphere-- a large diameter hose extending down a couple of inches below the propane tank, which is in a vented/open compartment.

We may be comparing apples to oranges comparing a PU to a DP. With very rare exception, those on this forum with diesels have larger diesels installed in the rear (Diesel Pushers). Adding HP adds heat and cooling on DP's is already marginal on those long grades. Also, many transmissions are at their HP/torque max without adding power.

Yes, all you have to do is buy a 12 VDC clearance light and you will need to splice it to the existing wires. There will be a positive and a ground wire. Use butt connectors.

F424754, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. No trouble at all. Just make sure the new ones are 12 VDC and be aware that they are polarity sensitive.

OK, Carl, you have me stumped there. Front AND steering axle? Must be driving one of these: http://www.fotolog.com/buses_mexico/48215728/ A truly awesome bus-- have seen two converted to RV's.

If you have a means of keeping the chassis batteries charged (shore power, solar, etc), yes it is better to leave them connected. But, better to disconnect them than to let them deeply discharge/go dead.

Absolutely wheel bearings may need adjustment. And, a dial indicator is needed for DP-size wheels. General specs are .001-.005" play.

Don't think I would to this a PREVENTIVE maintenance because of the cost. But, if you have to remove the hub for any reason, I would sure consider doing it. Probably 90% of the OTR trucks and trailers use oil bath lubed bearings.

Dale, Go here: http://graphical.weather.gov/sectors/pacnorthwest.php#tabs You can also change regions. You can scroll through the next week, checking for temperatures, precipitation (including show accumulation), wind strength and direction. etc.

With oil bath bearings, here is my recommendation: Look for signs of leakage on standard walkaround-- trails of oil or dirt radiating from the center of the wheel to the outside. Leaks from the inner seal are harder to see, as they drip on the inside of the wheel/brake components. Any smell of gear lube is a giveaway of a problem. Once a month or so pop the center can and check visually for oil level and any sign of contamination (anything but clear gear oil). Change fluid every couple of years. I use a 30 year old hand transmission pump to suck out the old oil. Put in new. Repeat after driving. I find this a lot easier than trying to use the drain and hoping that it will not leak. As far as gear lube viscosity, go with your axle manufacturer's recommendation for your temperature range. Because a quart will easily to both fronts, it is worth going with a synthetic gear lube.

Mark, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you getting these VOLTAGE readings at the B+ terminal of the alternator? At the chassis batteries? If not, would be interested in a reading at the chassis batteries.

Herman, Really depends on how the inverter is wired to batteries, but if direct, yes. Note, a reset is not a "cure-all". But free and may work.

Herman, Let us know what Trace recommends.