wolfe10

Particularly since this started after you washed the coach, I would start by cleaning the connections at the sending unit(s) on the engine. Unless this with the check engine light, suspect this is a chassis maker speced sender, gauge and buzzer.

If you have access to a mechanical oil pressure gauge connect it and check oil pressure-- it is the quickest/safest way to determine whether this is really an OIL PRESSURE PROBLEM or GAUGE PROBLEM. Another option is to call your chassis maker and explain the situation. Get their help in diagnosing gauge/sender vs real issue. BTW, oil pressure issues are VERY rare-- much more likely to be a gauge issue. And, just for drill, carefully remove, clean and reconnect the oil pressure sending unit wires at the engine end. A little dielectric grease to protect them is a good idea.That is a pretty common failure point.

rvndonbon, Please tell us what year, make and model coach you have. Does it have a wax-type or electric-type fan speed control?

Gayle, Absolutely normal. Brett

Little9, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Agree- dry out the PC board. In the mean time, if you have food that needs to be kept cold, your best bet is DRY ICE. For freezer, wrap it in a couple of sheets of newspaper. In the refrigerator, wrap it more. Nothing to clean up-- it evaporates-- is carbon dioxide. Only harmful if one were to stick their head in the refrigerator and try to breath long term! Far better than using ice, though that will work in the refrigerator-- just have to contend with melting ice. We do that on most of our offshore trips in the sailboat to minimize compressor run time.

Walt, Not sure toad transmission temperature (being towed) would ever be as high as with the toad is being driven. To me it would be a non-issue.

If you always disconnect/connect the three at the same time, wire from one hot to switch and have the switch close a relay that supplies all three. Yes, fuse in both supply to switch and to relay.

Yup, 100% correct. And, one additional point. The two hots (L1 and L2) come off opposite sides of the box, so 240 VAC between them. That is important, because then the neutral only carries the DIFFERENCE between draw on L1 and L2, not the sum of the draws.

Rear of engine (which is toward the front of the coach)? Or front of engine (toward rear of coach)? And, is it on the centerline (left to right) or off center?

jdpgroup, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Open a bay door (assume the vacuum is in the basement). That is how we "vent" the central vac in our coach.

Another option is to go from the hot side of the fuse holder socket to a remote fuse and switch and back to the other side of the fuse holder socket. There are some of these that come as a pre-made kit.

From your description, I believe this is the connector by itself: http://www.amazon.com/Marinco-6364CRN-Electrical-Connector-250-Volt/dp/B000NI020W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442194278&sr=8-1&keywords=marinco+6364crn

Marinco is a very common RV/marine cord and connection manufacturer: http://www.marinco.com/en/products/connect/cordsets/50-amp-125-250v

The problem is that there are a number of different (and acceptable) coach ends. As long as they are 4 wire. of proper gauge and either waterproof OR located inside, they can be used. If you describe what yours looks like/ post a photo, we can be of more assistance.

If we are talking about larger size RV tires, less tread depth (of course within reason) is BETTER. It is very unlikely that you will not be replacing tires because of lack of tread. Deeper tread means more tire squirm and slight loss of MPG as well as slight loss of handling. For example, go to: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/reference-materials/tire-guide-warranties-and-bulletins/ Click on RV tire guide. Go to page 13 and you will notice that the "energy" tires have slightly less tread depth. So if one tire you are considering has 18/32" tread depth and the other has 22/32" tread depth and all other factors are equal, I would go with the 18/32" tire.

Brad, Cleaning the CAC/radiator: http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,6601.0.html

While the "heat in a pan" test will sometimes tell you if a thermostat is good/bad, there are times when it is just starting to hang up and the "trauma" of removing it will make it perform properly, but will hang up again when reinstalled/reused. Thermostats are just not that expensive-- if you are going to the trouble to remove, just replace them.

Brad, Drain 2 gallons or so of coolant. Access the top of the engine: under bed or closet-- you need to get to the top front of engine (back of coach). The thermostats are under the top radiator hose. Pretty easy to get to. Make sure you remove all the old gasket and USE A NEW GASKET. Pour the coolant into the thermostat housing until just below overflow level (this prevents an air lock when starting the engine). Install thermostats and gasket. Pour remaining coolant into radiator/overflow reservoir. May not take all of it until engine started, warmed up and cools down.

Brad, Drain 2 gallons or so of coolant. Access the top of the engine: under bed or closet-- you need to get to the top front of engine (back of coach). The thermostats are under the top radiator hose. Pretty easy to get to. Make sure you remove all the old gasket and USE A NEW GASKET. Pour the coolant into the thermostat housing until just below overflow level (this prevents an air lock when starting the engine). Install thermostats and gasket. Pour remaining coolant into radiator/overflow reservoir. May not take all of it until engine started, warmed up and cools down.

Brad, Couple of things: 1. Once cooled down, remove the radiator cap and verify coolant level there-- with an overflow reservoir, it should be full (no air). 2. The 3126 has a separate V belt that drives only the water pump. Check its tension-- it is NOT on an automatic tensioner. If you have a rear radiator, you will need to lay on the ground, driver's side of engine (front of engine, back of coach). 3. If above OK, I would replace the thermostat(s). Not that difficult to do. Probably have two in the same housing. Go to a Caterpillar dealer with your engine serial number to get the right one(s). 4. If rear radiator, when was the last time the front of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) was cleaned?

Chuckwagon, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. What vehicle are you towing-- that may help with comments.

bragman33, Were you able to talk with Marty Moore (see post above)-- he has been working on Revcons for decades? Can't imagine he has not addressed this exact issue.

Brad, Have you talked with Marty? http://www.martymooremotorhome.com/parts.htm I would be very surprised if this is a new question for him.

EXCELLENT! That is the only word for an FMCA member (Dave) going to the extra effort to help a fellow RV'er. Thanks, Dave.

And, if you want a good quality one pre-made (even talks-- tells you all OK or what the problem is):http://got50amps.com/