wolfe10

Gerald, If this is the pump: http://www.shurflo.com/rv-products/rv-pumps/classic-series-water-pumps/shurflo-classic-pump/default.html Cut-out PSI is supposed to be 45 PSI. If pressure is above spec, you can adjust with the screw in the end of the pump head.

Gerald, What water pump do you have? Never heard of an RV water pump being set that high. Is this high pressure a recent thing, or has it always been that high? Also, have you removed the shower head to check for minerals restricting pressure-- you should have sufficient water flow, even at 40 PSI?

Gerald, As ticat900 posted, the more information you have on the system the more the likelihood that we can help. Very unlikely that it a "Beaver" system. Likely a system shared with other motorhomes. Brand, model number, etc.

Particularly between Pensacola and Destin a lot of stop and go/traffic light driving. Quite built up. East of Panama City, it is more the way it was 30 years ago.

hmedina, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The refrigerator does require 12 VDC to run the PC board, irrespective of the heat source (120 VAC or propane). I would start by confirming that you do have 12- 14 VDC to the refrigerator (access through the outside access door).

Tom, To determine if low voltage may be the issue, while safely keeping clear of the slide mechanism, put a voltmeter on the slide motor terminals and have someone operate the slide. If voltage drops below 12.0 VDC there is an issue with battery or wiring. Another check if it is the battery that is suspect would be to start the engine and run at high idle. Any change in symptoms. Note: if there is a loose or corroded connection, too small wire gauge, etc, this will not tell you whether it is battery or one of these items.

Renee, We are in Palacios right now-- an easy drive down the coast from Galveston and on the way to Rockport, Corpus Christi and the Rio Grande Valley. Wrap up our week here in the morning and head back home for the holidays. We are at http://www.campingfriend.com/serendipitybayresort/ The marina and Matagorda bay just out the windshield. Particularly if you are already in Texas, wander on down to the Valley with stops along the coach on the way down.

Renee, Two choices from where you are: Central or southern Florida or the Rio Grande Valley of Texas. Both offer what you are looking for.

Patsy, You measured gas pressure as 7 "in what units"? Should be 11 column inches WC.

First question with "soft ride" is have you checked that the tire pressures are correct? And if the old tires were over 6 years old or so, the rubber WILL have gotten stiffer. Just part of the natural aging process.

A common failure-- UV light is the likely cause of most of the degradation. Not sure of a solution other than replacement. You might see if someone coming down from the U.S. can pick one up for you. Private Message me if you need suggestions on where to post requests for help transporting the part.

Joe, What kind of motorhome do you have and what kind of work do you need done? Recommendations for chassis work on a diesel pusher would not be relevant if you have a refrigerator problem or need chassis work on a Class C.

janchuckscw, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Absolutely. As long as you don't need/want the inverter function (12 VDC to 120 VAC) you can replace it with a converter or battery charger. I would strongly recommend a "smart" charger or converter for both faster charging and longer battery life. You will have to do some minor 120 VAC rewiring, connecting inverter 120 VAC IN to 120 VAC OUT at the inverter, as well as wiring the new converter or charger to 120 VAC.

Steve, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, start with the basics: Alignment Ride height correct Correct tire pressure for your actual weight Verify that the sway bar bushings are in good condition Shocks in good condition

Actually, it may be less damaging if the break is near the top. At least then the remaining piece will just go straight down into the pan-- not able to "escape". If the "engine end" is what broke off, it would be a 4" piece of metal loose in the pan. Would hate to sees 4" piece of metal sloshed up into the crankshaft.

Original post says dipstick not tube was broken (4" from the end). It may be important as to WHICH end broke off, as that would tell us whether the 4" piece is in the pan or is separate at the other end. In addition to checking with Monaco (their chassis, not Freightliner or Spartan to the best of my knowledge), if you are not going to repair it before driving, you might check with Cummins to see if the dip stick piece (either 4" or the long one) could harm the engine as it extends into the pan. Another option is it broke just 4" from the end you check is to use a needle nose pliers to remove the dip stick and then just secure the end of the tube so dirt doesn't get in. Brett

bdawson, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In most cases, the dip stick and dip stick tube were chassis maker items, not engine maker. So, check with Monaco Corp using your VIN to find out if a replacement is available and what is involved in removing the old one. Their number is: 877-466-6226. May be as simple as removing the dip stick tube from the engine and just replacing the seal/gasket to get the old one out. Be sure to keep the cap on the tube or zip tie a baggie over it to keep dirt out of the engine.

Agree with Walt. Replace both fuel filters. Smell the diesel. Does it smell like diesel, or has it "turned". If turned, it will need to be replaced. While you watch the throttle at the engine, with the engine off, have someone step on the throttle. Verify that the throttle is opening all the way.

jagmoor, Please tell us how many days you want to be on the road between SA and Orange Beach. If you know when you will leave, that will also help. As an example, there is a weekly event in Eunice LA every Saturday night at the Liberty Theater. Brett

Tom is absolutely correct. But a lot of PC boards and sail switch have been replaced that were perfectly good. Go through all the diagnostics rather than throwing parts at it. A loose or corroded connection where 12 VDC does into the furnace or a duct in the basement crushed by a box can cause the same symptoms as a PC board.

Ed, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Actually the board would NOT be one if the first things I would suspect with your symptoms. You have a SAIL SWITCH that closes when it senses adequate air flow. If that doesn't happen, there will be no gas valve opening or ignition sparking. Causes of sail switch not closing: Low voltage at the furnace causing the fan speed to be too low. Restriction in air return causing restricted air flow. Restriction from crushed air duct and/or closed heater vents.

Patsy, How long since it has run successfully? When you remove the air cleaner, and try to start, does the gasoline spell like gasoline or like it has "turned"? Small carburetors are very easy to clog if the gas sits in them for a long time.

Patsy, If you have trouble finding a post you made, just go do any of your posts. "Click" on your name (patsy613). On the right top of the page that brings up is "Find Content". That will show you all the posts you have made. Brett

Lori, NO, wet weight does not include any of your "stuff". If you travel very light, it COULD be close. But, I would not count on it. Also, many manufacturers rely on a "base" and others on an "average" motorhome when posting the actual weights. If you confirm with your motorhome manufacturer that these are actual weights for your particular coach with all the things it was ordered with from the factory and add any dealer installed options and then you add everything you have put on board, you might reduce pressure in the tires a little, but I would sure not go down to "wet weight" PSI without actually weighting.

See if any of these locations work for you: http://rvsafety.com/weighing-schedule/