wolfe10

Teamrope, Check the 120 VAC breaker in the 120 VAC main breaker box. It is the breaker that supplies the 120 VAC to your inverter/charger to charge the batteries. And, what size/model is your inverter? 50 amps DC will not accommodate a very robust inverter. 50 amps times 12 VDC= 600 watts. Most inverter/chargers are over 1000 watts.

Dave and Marcia, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. When you say you don't have air bags, I assume that means you have the B.F. Goodrich Torsilastic suspension (aka Velvet Ride). Have you checked and adjusted RIDE HEIGHT? http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Torsilastic%20Ride%20Height/ You can also measure it yourself and post the measurements AND the number of shims at each wheel position (same number in front of and behind a wheel position, but each wheel position can be different). What tire pressure are you running? Is it based on your actual weights? Once you have the basics done, there ARE double shock mounts available: http://www.pioneermetalworks.com/doubleshocks.htm

Off the top of my head, I can think of four primary factors: Initial build quality. The "care and feeding"/maintenance it has had through its life. One's interest and ability to do routine maintenance and smaller repairs ones self. One's "need" for new/newer.

Yes, some can go up in size. But, need to check for correct rim width for tire, adequate dual wheel spacing and clearance to body and suspension parts. It will also affect effective axle ratio and speedometer.

A foreclosure (aka repo) will generally mean that the institution holding the lien is selling the vehicle. Generally no issue getting a clear title, but verify. ASSUME that if they couldn't make payments, that the owner did not spend money on maintenance, so, indeed check the coach over very carefully. Brett

Teamrope, Easy enough to determine. Open your 120 VAC main breaker box and see what the breaker says.

Mary, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The inter-cooler, also known as an after-cooler and CAC (charge air cooler) is speced and installed by the chassis maker. What chassis do you have? Can your current inter-cooler be repaired?

Gerard, Again, my suggestion is to get the make and model number off the pump and verify that it is set to specs.

Perhaps he means that they do not SHARE their wiring schematics, not that they don't exist.

Gerald, If this is the pump: http://www.shurflo.com/rv-products/rv-pumps/classic-series-water-pumps/shurflo-classic-pump/default.html Cut-out PSI is supposed to be 45 PSI. If pressure is above spec, you can adjust with the screw in the end of the pump head.

Gerald, What water pump do you have? Never heard of an RV water pump being set that high. Is this high pressure a recent thing, or has it always been that high? Also, have you removed the shower head to check for minerals restricting pressure-- you should have sufficient water flow, even at 40 PSI?

Gerald, As ticat900 posted, the more information you have on the system the more the likelihood that we can help. Very unlikely that it a "Beaver" system. Likely a system shared with other motorhomes. Brand, model number, etc.

Particularly between Pensacola and Destin a lot of stop and go/traffic light driving. Quite built up. East of Panama City, it is more the way it was 30 years ago.

hmedina, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The refrigerator does require 12 VDC to run the PC board, irrespective of the heat source (120 VAC or propane). I would start by confirming that you do have 12- 14 VDC to the refrigerator (access through the outside access door).

Tom, To determine if low voltage may be the issue, while safely keeping clear of the slide mechanism, put a voltmeter on the slide motor terminals and have someone operate the slide. If voltage drops below 12.0 VDC there is an issue with battery or wiring. Another check if it is the battery that is suspect would be to start the engine and run at high idle. Any change in symptoms. Note: if there is a loose or corroded connection, too small wire gauge, etc, this will not tell you whether it is battery or one of these items.

Renee, We are in Palacios right now-- an easy drive down the coast from Galveston and on the way to Rockport, Corpus Christi and the Rio Grande Valley. Wrap up our week here in the morning and head back home for the holidays. We are at http://www.campingfriend.com/serendipitybayresort/ The marina and Matagorda bay just out the windshield. Particularly if you are already in Texas, wander on down to the Valley with stops along the coach on the way down.

Renee, Two choices from where you are: Central or southern Florida or the Rio Grande Valley of Texas. Both offer what you are looking for.

Patsy, You measured gas pressure as 7 "in what units"? Should be 11 column inches WC.

First question with "soft ride" is have you checked that the tire pressures are correct? And if the old tires were over 6 years old or so, the rubber WILL have gotten stiffer. Just part of the natural aging process.

A common failure-- UV light is the likely cause of most of the degradation. Not sure of a solution other than replacement. You might see if someone coming down from the U.S. can pick one up for you. Private Message me if you need suggestions on where to post requests for help transporting the part.

Joe, What kind of motorhome do you have and what kind of work do you need done? Recommendations for chassis work on a diesel pusher would not be relevant if you have a refrigerator problem or need chassis work on a Class C.

janchuckscw, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Absolutely. As long as you don't need/want the inverter function (12 VDC to 120 VAC) you can replace it with a converter or battery charger. I would strongly recommend a "smart" charger or converter for both faster charging and longer battery life. You will have to do some minor 120 VAC rewiring, connecting inverter 120 VAC IN to 120 VAC OUT at the inverter, as well as wiring the new converter or charger to 120 VAC.

Steve, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, start with the basics: Alignment Ride height correct Correct tire pressure for your actual weight Verify that the sway bar bushings are in good condition Shocks in good condition

Actually, it may be less damaging if the break is near the top. At least then the remaining piece will just go straight down into the pan-- not able to "escape". If the "engine end" is what broke off, it would be a 4" piece of metal loose in the pan. Would hate to sees 4" piece of metal sloshed up into the crankshaft.

Original post says dipstick not tube was broken (4" from the end). It may be important as to WHICH end broke off, as that would tell us whether the 4" piece is in the pan or is separate at the other end. In addition to checking with Monaco (their chassis, not Freightliner or Spartan to the best of my knowledge), if you are not going to repair it before driving, you might check with Cummins to see if the dip stick piece (either 4" or the long one) could harm the engine as it extends into the pan. Another option is it broke just 4" from the end you check is to use a needle nose pliers to remove the dip stick and then just secure the end of the tube so dirt doesn't get in. Brett