wolfe10

While Mr Boyer is correct, IF, repeat IF you limit your total power needs to 50 amps (half of what is available on a properly wired 50 amp circuit where you have TWO 50 amp hots) you should not have a problem with overloading the neutral. As you know on a properly wired 50 amp circuit, the neutral carries only the DIFFERENCE between loads on L1 and L2. With both hots on the same leg, the neutral now carries the SUM of the loads. As to why-- other than ignorance, the only reason I can think of is that the park was wired for only 15/20 and 30 amp (i.e. they only pulled ONE HOT) and they wanted to "upgrade". Brett

Actually, Tom is the "go to" guy here on the FMCA Forum as well: http://community.fmca.com/topic/3171-retired-allison-transmission-fluids-engineer/ You can certainly PM (Private Message) him if you have a specific question.

Ray, You might want to check, but I suspect it is a propane detector that activates a solenoid that allows propane into the coach. Brett

Gerald, Here is an excellent resource that goes back many years: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing Click on: Towing Guides- towing four wheels down. Then select the model year you are interested in. Be aware that you need to double check with the manufacturer, as some have declared non-towable a few models previously deemed towable 4 wheels down (you will find some information on these in discussion here in the towing section.

Perhaps a little clarification: PSI in the air bags is not more related to system pressure than is your tire pressure to the tire shops 150 PSI line pressure. Both have a "controller" determining when to let air in and how much-- ya one is automatic and the other "manual". In the air system, the ride height valve opens to allow air in, closes, opens to let air out based on the ride height dimension. Many air suspensions limit air PSI to the front suspension, as the rear axle is quite a lot heavier and they don't want to torque the chassis by raising the front abruptly and then having the back end slowly catch up. Extreme example of HUGE variations in air bag pressure-- dump trucks with rear air suspension. The same ride height is maintained with the dump empty or loaded with 50,000 pounds of gravel. You bet the PSI is much more when loaded to maintain the same ride height. Brett

Rich, What engine? Any pictures of the leaking component? Most air compressors share an oil supply with the engine-- does yours (oil will be the same black as the engine)? If so, you have a pretty large quantity of oil. If you are going to drive, consider wrapping a large "diaper" around the leaking component so you won't get oil all over the back of the rig/toad. Stop after 5 miles, let engine off for 10 minutes and check oil level. If little drop, go a little further this time. I did just that this summer when a high pressure switch for my parking brake started leaking badly-- in the middle of nowhere. We were only 110 miles from our destination. Stopped 4 times along the way to change the "diaper" and add fluid. Replaced the switch at our leisure.

Freetimeva, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. This website should get you started: http://rvdumpsites.net/

Dorfboyzz, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You say you have found the horn relay. When you push the horn button, does the relay close? Troubleshooting the horn button/relay would be your first step. If so, next, check for operation of the air valve (assuming these are air horns). No point in going up on the roof until you know that the relay and air valve are working

Walt, Totally agree, it is critical to have a fuse at both chassis and toad battery. But, diodes generally "cost" over half a volt drop-- a lot when you are charging. I prefer to use an "ignition hot" signal on a 40 amp RELAY. No voltage drop, and as soon as the coach ignition is off, the two batteries are separated.

Boy, that is a rare model. Start by calling Monaco with your VIN. They still have some guys who worked at Safari. If they don't know, they may be able to point you in the right direction. 877-466-6226 Pacific Time.

There are a variety of reasons for oil sample testing: About the only bad one (IMO) is to try to extend oil change intervals. Good reasons: Get a base line for your engine, so you will be able to evaluate changes through it's life (appearance of metals in oil indicating wear of specific components). Determine that the air cleaner is functioning as it should. Testing for dirt in oil can save an engine by identifying in time to replace a defective filter or fix a post-filter leak. Determine if there is a coolant or other internal leak. Brett

A "shore power/generator switch" is also known as an ATS-- Automatic Transfer Switch. You can only use one source of 120 VAC at a time-- either shore or generator, not both. The ATS disconnects one when the other is turned on. Generally, the generator is the "favored" source. But, it sure sounds like you have a problem between your battery and main fuse box, since 12 VDC things do not work unless your charger is supplying 12VDC. Use a digital voltmeter (start under $10). Shore power off, generator off. Check voltage at the battery-- positive to negative terminal. If 12+ VDC, keep going toward the main fuse box. Determine where you go from 12+ VDC between the positive side and any good chassis metal/ground. First place I would look is any large fuse or fusible link.

Rien, Assume you are talking about the dash A/C. Most pros fill by a set of gauges/use of site glass. Hopefully, someone will be able to look up the total system capacity for your chassis. What year model is the chassis?

Len, The generator will not directly charge the batteries. The 120 VAC power from either shore power or generator are used to power whatever device you have to charge the batteries. When he removed the inverter/charger, what replaced it. When you are plugged into shore power for a week, what keeps the batteries up (other than a solar panel)?

Leonardbarney, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First thing I would do is use a digital voltmeter (they start under $10) to check voltage at the batteries and then at the back (outside access door) of the refrigerator. Very rare for the refrigerator DC to go through the salesman switch/main switch by the door. There should be a fuse for the refrigerator-- if battery voltage is 12+ VDC, and no voltage at the refrigerator, locate the fuse. You may need to check with Newmar if you can't find it. What converter, charger or inverter/charger do you have? Just wondering if you can use your home outlet to charge the batteries? Brett

See if there is a hose (small diameter) from thermostat housing to coolant overflow tank. If so, that will bleed the air from the system as you slowly fill the system. If not, the thermostat housing is where you will need to loosen a line, hose, etc to bleed the air, since it is the highest point on the engine. Brett

With a propane generator, it is easy to rule out fuel as the cause (meaning the issue is ignition-related. Shut off the coach main 120 VAC breaker. Get a propane bottle/torch-- do NOT light it. Turn on propane with the nozzle of the torch in the air cleaner. If it tries to start, you have a fuel issue. If not, an ignition issue. You could also pull a spark plug wire and see if you have fire, but in many installations, the spark plugs are difficult to access.

Yup, we had a couple of days early this summer where we didn't drive due to heavy winds, and two with 40 MPH headwinds where we just resigned to stay in 5th gear and set the cruise at 45 MPH and do a short day's drive. Safety, comfort and urgency of schedule all factor in (in that order). But, weather affected our schedule FAR more when we sailed. We would sometimes wait 10 days for a weather window before taking off on long off shore voyages.

Gerald, First step is to properly identify exactly what the material is. Many seats have the seat manufacturers tag attached-- look under the seat. You would treat leather very differently than you would Ultraleather.

Herman, Dusting is literally the introduction of dirt particles into the engine through the intake. It is an abrasive and wears out the engine-- most moving parts. The amount of damage is related to how much dirt, what kind of dirt and how far it is run with dirt in it. Think of it as sandpaper on all moving parts. Water can do several different things to damage an engine: Weaken the air filter media, making a breakdown and subsequent ingestion of dirt (i.e. dusting) more likely. If ingested in sufficient quantity can cause hydrolock. Water is non compressible. When a cylinder fills with water, as the piston comes up, instead of compressing air tries to compress water. The result is that catastrophic damage occurs-- the rod bends, often going through the side of the block.

Welcome Rien and Yolanda. Where will you be using the camper?

Recommendation from Cummins (as well as all other diesel manufacturers) is: If you start it, drive it at least 25 highway miles-- the minimum to get the OIL up to operating temperatures. If you can't do that, don't start it. Ideal would be to take it for a drive once a month or so. And, make sure that your diesel tank is full to minimize condensation and that you have put a biocide in the fuel tank. Tire manufacturers recommend inflating tires to the max on the sidewall while in storage as long as it does not exceed the rim specs.

The answer to what is towable four wheels down is really TWO questions: One: is the legal/liability question. Two: is will it harm the vehicle mechanically. Since a 2008 is out of warranty, the second one is the question that is likely the more relevant to you. Remco is likely the best source to answer that question: http://www.remcoindustries.com/Towing/Store.php Brett

dcochran1167, That is a tough one. Two bad answers and no good ones on that. If brakes are not applied, yes the toad can hit the coach if coach brakes are applied. But, were you to shorten the lanyard (probably easily done) and the car is still attached with safety cables, one arm of the tow bar, etc you would quickly burn up the toad brakes-- thousands of dollars of damage likely. We are talking about brake calipers, disks and in extreme cases tires. With a powerful coach, you could smoke the toad brakes before you knew there was an issue. Your rear view camera is your friend. I glance it it (hitch just in view) each time I glance at the gauges. So, not sure that they made the incorrect decision about lanyard length. BTW, this applies to all brake away systems. Brett

IF (big if) there is still gel coat left, indeed it can generally be rubbed/polished out. Gel coat is many times thicker than paint. Have worked on many fiberglass boats (with quality gel coat) that had completely dulled. Started with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, then 2000 then rubbing compound, then polishing compound. Came out great. Suggest you try a small area to see what you can do with it. Again, if you can see the fibers, this will NOT work-- it only works on gel coat which is smooth with no fibers showing. Brett