wolfe10

Jack, The auxiliary fans, whether on a thermostat or on simple on/off switch that you control are better mounted at the top of the cooling unit exhausting up. That gives better flow over the cooling unit than fans at the bottom that can create turbulence over the cooling unit. And, I am not aware of any set spec for cooling fan on/off temperatures. Part of that will depend on your natural air flow. If in a slide with side exhaust rather than through the roof, I would use a lower set temperature. Also depends on location of thermostat.

Chuck, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Actually this time of year, weather will likely dictate your route. If a cold front settles in (as it has right now) you will be better off heading south and then east to avoid well-below freezing temperatures. Same if snow or freezing rain is predicted. Usually the safest route (from a weather stand point) would be to head south and take I 10 or I 10, US90 from Van Horn to San Antonio (much nicer drive) and then I 10 on across.

I agree with ticat900. The combustion is not and can not be connected to the interior. The boiler is heated with 120 VAC or diesel. The how coolant is then circulated. It is only the coolant that reaches the interior of the coach. For the Aqua Hot to be the source, you would have to have a way for the exhaust to rise up from below basement level and be sucked into the interior-- can't see that happening.

Same here TPMS on coach and toad.

robertsw1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Itasca is a branch of Winnebago.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what coach you have-- that may help.

Actually, if the fan works on high only, the resistor is the likely suspect. Of course, if playing with the the switch makes it work, that would be where to start.

Jack, First suspect is the RIDE HEIGHT valves. You will have three-- two on one axle, one on the other. Most have two on the rear axle and one on the front. So, first thing is to check ride height-- Monaco can give you the ride height specs for your coach. Be sure to use safety stands. I don't know where they tapped into the air system for the Air Force One, but I have trouble seeing how that affects a single ride height valve. Brett

What brand is the filter. I know some have a special procedure. ADC is an example.

Another trick if you have to fill a fuel filter is to fill the INLETS, not the OUTLET. On an "oil filter looking filter", the outer small holes are the inlets, the center large hole the outlet. Yes, it takes awhile to fill through the small outer holes. Some have bought a pipe that screws into the center hole to make the process easier. Brett

Actually, if you are going to pre-fill one filter, it is safer (from a dirt in fuel standpoint) to fill the primary fuel filter/water separator. That way, if there are any contaminants in the fuel, the secondary fuel filter will catch them. But, my recommendation is to follow your engine manufacturer's recommendations for your engine. On some, that is to pre-fill. Others to install dry and use the manual primer pump (many Caterpillar engines) or engine fuel pump to prime.

hermitid, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are two ways that shore power vs generator can be handled in an RV. 1. ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). It ONLY allows one source of 120 VAC. Generally, if generator is running, it is the one supplying the coach. But, it can be wired for shore power to be the "preferred" source. 2. A manual plug/unplug. In other words, you manually do what the ATS does. You unplug from one source and plug into the other. To determine which you have, follow your shore power cord into the RV. Follow your generator 120 VAC cord from generator. The two will either meet at an ATS or at a plug/outlet. And, when you start the generator, best to have no 120 VAC loads on. Best to run it at around 50% of capacity (i.e. around 2500 watts if you have a 5000 watt generator) . Just like your car, not good to just start it and run under light load-- would be like idling your car for, say, an hour. Then shut off loads before turning off generator. This allows a cool down period and also is much easier on the generator's voltage regulator. Brett

I do a lot of mechanical inspections on coaches. It is the "dock queens" that sit most of their lives that show more mechanical problems than the higher mile coaches. Those that sit for a year or more (very low mileage) are the worse. Miles WITH, repeat WITH good preventive maintenance is not an issue for a DP. You may be able to kill a diesel, but it is very unlikely that you will wear it out.

Two usual suspects-- a leak somewhere or the check valve in the pump that is not sealing properly.

TICAT900 is correct-- the driver's license you need is dictated by the state where you live/get licensed. But, in terms of length, weight, speed limits, etc you must conform with the laws of the state you are driving in.

What year???

Again, it MAY be the hitch that is the limiting factor-- or it may not.

The 6.5 was a Chevy engine, not in the same league with Cummins, Caterpillar, etc. No, this is not a "Ford vs Chevy" thing-- it is just not as robust. I was General Manger of a Chevrolet dealer when the 6.5 was introduced. The later 6.5's (from 1998 as I recall) were a little better. Most have found moving the engine computer from the "valley" to out in front where it gets more air flow. Plenty of info on the Safari Trek forum. Be sure to keep the front end up to par-- air bags are an integral part of the suspension (unless front springs have been upgraded-- Henderson, etc). Ball joints should be checked as well. The "auto park" feature has been problematic through the years. Make sure to keep it maintained (including fluid level), as failures can be quite expensive. Brett

DSWHIMS, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Suspect you have the 6.5 liter Chevy diesel-- not aware of any 7.4 diesel. Not one of the more respected engines/chassis.

For those without a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) which I HIGHLY recommend, I would sure not suggest that checking tire pressure 2-3 times a year is adequate. The major cause of blowouts, particularly in duals is running low on pressure. And on a dual, it is very difficult to "eye ball" a low tire.

A tow dolly adds another level of complexity. I would only use one if doing so allows you to not buy a new vehicle that you can tow 4 wheels down.

Agree with Mrboyer. Particularly with a small gas coach, I would have supplemental brakes on ANY toad.

Planocat, Wow. Never heard of bad wrist pin making it that far. Thanks for posting. Suggest you consult a Cummins dealer (they guys who actually work on them/do warranty work) and get their read on "by what mileage would you feel safe in assuming that ISL wrist pin was not an issue for a 2005 engine in an RV". Let us know what you find.

If an engine were going to sustain the wrist pin failure, it would very likely occur within the first few thousand miles. After 8 years and 55k miles, without an issue, I would say your chance of issues is VERY low.

Not sure what "Passport" you are talking about? Is it "Passport America"? Or are you talking about FMCA or Good Sam discount at RV Parks?