wolfe10

Tread wear rarely enters into the equation on RV tires -- they age out before tread wear becomes an issue. There are other factors that influence the "safe life" of a tire -- to the point that it is impossible for us to render a "good until this date, bad after" declaration. Other factors affecting tire life: Only run at correct tire pressure vs. ever run low on pressure. Protection from UV light -- stored indoors or covered by white (for less heat) tire covers vs outdoors in direct sun Driven monthly and far enough and at highway speed to allow emoluments in the tire to migrate to the surface vs parked for long periods of time, I can tell you Michelin's official position is that beginning at 5 years the tires be inspected by a tire expert. Certainly another consideration is how long you will keep the coach. No point in running them into the "high risk" age only to replace them just before selling/trading. Better to have you safer than to sell with new tires on it.

Probably difficult for anyone to give you specific ideas on what would be pleasing to you and within your ability to do or budget to pay for having done. We are in the process of remodeling our second motorhome. Already replaced all flooring with cork, recovered headboard, valances, refinished table, new Flexsteel sofa, etc. By doing the work ourselves, we have a nice coach that suits our tastes at a very reasonable price. As far as ideas, probably start on "for sale" websites that have a lot of interior photos as well as exterior photos where you may see something that trips you fancy. And, if someone has posted remodel photos or ideas here you want more detail on, just ask. Brett

Thanks, we didn't know if winter weather was part of the equation. Brett

There are coaches wired such that they do not charge with the battery switch off. Others continue to charge whether the battery disconnect switch is on or off. But, that is very easy to determine: Check voltage when plugged in, batteries disconnected for at least 2 days. Check voltage when plugged in, batteries connected. And, as Rich said, it is very important to have the inverter/charger properly programmed. Instructions are in the inverter/charger manual. Brett

What time of year will you be making the trip?

Lew, if the dash lights light up, the ignition solenoid is OK, as that is what powers them. Suggest you get with Freightliner Gaffney for a wiring diagram. Intermittent problems are tough to diagnose, you need to troubleshoot when it is not working. One other place to check is the ground wire on the engine. It is on the passenger's side, near the computer (black plastic cover). As with any electronic engine, it needs clean power to work. Just forward of there is the starter, Check that the connections are clean and tight. Brett

If he is going to pull new wire (a good idea to go larger gauge) consider having him pull an extra hot wire and set up a 50 amp outlet.

There are a number of things that only work with the ignition ON-- Allison shift pad, dash HVAC fan, etc. So, start by determining exactly what does/does not work that should only work with the ignition on. The ignition switch is used as the signal for the IGNITION SOLENOID (different from start solenoid). If either the ignition switch or more likely the ignition solenoid is failing intermittently, it can cause your symptoms. The other thing that will give puzzling symptoms is a loose or corroded terminal at battery and/or the ground lug. Let us know what you find. Brett

Yup, what is the length of wire run from house breaker box to your RV outlet? And, with a 50 amp shore power cord, assume you are using your 50 amp cord and a very short 30 male to 50 female adapter rather than using a 30 amp cord and then adapting "up" to 50 amp at the coach. Bottom line-- less voltage drop with larger-gauge wire.

To answer the question of whether you can leave your charger on 24/7 the answer is yes, IF you have it properly programmed. See your inverter/charger manual for programming instructions.

Paul, What is voltage at the batteries (digital voltmeters start under $10)? What is voltage on battery side and on coach side of the breaker?

Several issues. Yes 105 is too low to be running A/C. And, 12.3 VDC on the batteries indicates a 50% discharged battery-- so, clearly they are not being charged. On some inverters, the switch only functions when no shore or generator power present-- i.e. on or off makes no difference when plugged in. On others, the switch does control charger section. 22 amps @ 120 VAC indicates that you have some other heavy load going-- that is more than one A/C and refrigerator, particularly since the charger did not appear to be on. Water heater? Block heater? Short term, turn off A/C, get the charger section going. Many inverter/chargers offer a "power share or power save" feature-- you can limit the number of amps of 120 VAC that it can use to charge the batteries. Since you want to be able to run other things on limited power, I would set this to the lowest setting-- often 5 amps-- which will charge the batteries around 40 amps @14 VDC. And, also living in a hot, humid place (south Texas) I would suggest another way to control humidity. You will use a lot less power by installing a home dehumidifier in the coach while stored and setting it at 50% humidity. Drain it into the gray tank. Brett

The good news is with today's LED TV's, power draw on that outlet is way down from a decade ago. But, absolutely, add up the power consumption (in amps @ 120 VAC) of all items you want powered at the same time by that circuit (breaker), NOT just that particular outlet.

Counterpoint -- lots of very nice used coaches at good prices.

Duainsworth, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, as long as the total amp load does not exceed that of the wire and breaker, you can do any of the above. Many use a power strip for their electronic entertainment center.

Larry, That sounds strangely like one of my favorite tools for cleaning parts-- a toothbrush. BUT NEVER YOUR OWN.

Yes, some Freightliner chassis have THREE fuel filters. The inline one on the frame. The PRIMARY FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR (with 10-30 micron filter element) The SECONDARY FILTER (with 2-5 micron filter element). Always a good idea to check micron ratings of the filters, as a 2, 5, 10, and 30 will all fit the same filter housings. If you are not sure of the micron ratings they used, post the numbers and one of us can look them up for you. Brett

Cuzin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What brand jacks do you have? This is important to make sure you have both the correct fluid (some use ATF, some hydraulic oil) and also the procedure (some have a dipstick and you check with all jacks stowed, some you lower one jack a few inches and fill until the buzzer goes out). Brett

No question, two A/C's on a 30 amp circuit is very marginal. If both happen to cycle on at the same time, I suspect it would pop the breaker, particularly if any other 120 VAC items are on such as charger. I would not do it. In addition to too many amps, at high amp draws, voltage drops, which increases amp load from the compressor(s). And low voltage will shorten the life of the A/C. You can insure less voltage drop by using your 50 amp shore power cord with just a 30 male to 50 female at the outlet. The heavier the gauge wire, the less the voltage drop. I would also suggest you check voltage (any interior outlet would do) as the A/C starts up and as it runs. You sure don't want to have an A/C running on less than 108 VAC. Brett

With two electrical devices working intermittently, check connections at battery and at fuse box. Next time it doesn't work, first thing to do is verify that you have 12+ VDC at the toilet. Said another way, you need to verify that the problem is in the toilet, not wiring to the toilet.

Paul, With battery installed, use a voltmeter or test lamp starting at the positive battery terminal to chassis ground. Work toward the disconnect switch and then on to the 12 VDC fuse panel. Determine where you go from 12+ VDC to 0. Brett

Please post the make and model of the toilet.

The two posts are not contradictory. If the coach is to be towed with rear wheels on the ground, the drive shaft has to be disconnected. If loaded on a flatbed nothing needs to be disconnected.

Yes. All circuits that are "fed" by the ignition solenoid add to the load (and therefore heat) on the ignition solenoid. As to whether this additional load is the cause of the problem is less certain. Locate your ignition solenoid and we can walk you through an easy diagnosis if you have a simple digital voltmeter (starting under $10).

Your chassis maker determines how many and where the filter(s) are located. The engine manufacturer merely prescribes to what micron rating the fuel must be filtered. Best filtration setup for a diesel is a primary filter (10-30 micron filter element) with water separator and secondary filter with fine filter element (2-5 micron depending on engine manufacturer's specs). Yes, there are some chassis with just a single filter. It is VERY important to know if you have the one or two filter setup. If you have a single fuel filter and someone puts a 30 micron filter element in it, you will basically be throwing "rocks" at your injectors. If you have a two filter setup and someone puts a 2 micron filter element in the primary filter, it will clog quickly and give the secondary filter a free ride. Please let us know what filter(s) your coach has. And, if you post the filter element numbers, we can verify that you have the correct one(s). Brett