wolfe10

Rich, What engine? Any pictures of the leaking component? Most air compressors share an oil supply with the engine-- does yours (oil will be the same black as the engine)? If so, you have a pretty large quantity of oil. If you are going to drive, consider wrapping a large "diaper" around the leaking component so you won't get oil all over the back of the rig/toad. Stop after 5 miles, let engine off for 10 minutes and check oil level. If little drop, go a little further this time. I did just that this summer when a high pressure switch for my parking brake started leaking badly-- in the middle of nowhere. We were only 110 miles from our destination. Stopped 4 times along the way to change the "diaper" and add fluid. Replaced the switch at our leisure.

Freetimeva, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. This website should get you started: http://rvdumpsites.net/

Dorfboyzz, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You say you have found the horn relay. When you push the horn button, does the relay close? Troubleshooting the horn button/relay would be your first step. If so, next, check for operation of the air valve (assuming these are air horns). No point in going up on the roof until you know that the relay and air valve are working

Walt, Totally agree, it is critical to have a fuse at both chassis and toad battery. But, diodes generally "cost" over half a volt drop-- a lot when you are charging. I prefer to use an "ignition hot" signal on a 40 amp RELAY. No voltage drop, and as soon as the coach ignition is off, the two batteries are separated.

Boy, that is a rare model. Start by calling Monaco with your VIN. They still have some guys who worked at Safari. If they don't know, they may be able to point you in the right direction. 877-466-6226 Pacific Time.

Jim, I agree-- have them on my coach. They end out of balance, as they account for imbalance in everything: Tire Wheel Hub Brake drum or disk Basically all rotating masses are balanced. The only other variable is run-out. If the tires don't have excessive run-out, you are good to go. As fewer and fewer shops can do a good "on the vehicle spin balance", finding a permanent solution makes sense. The cost must be factored over the life of the motorhome (or motorhomes if you move them to a new one), NOT just that set of tires.

There are a variety of reasons for oil sample testing: About the only bad one (IMO) is to try to extend oil change intervals. Good reasons: Get a base line for your engine, so you will be able to evaluate changes through it's life (appearance of metals in oil indicating wear of specific components). Determine that the air cleaner is functioning as it should. Testing for dirt in oil can save an engine by identifying in time to replace a defective filter or fix a post-filter leak. Determine if there is a coolant or other internal leak. Brett

A "shore power/generator switch" is also known as an ATS-- Automatic Transfer Switch. You can only use one source of 120 VAC at a time-- either shore or generator, not both. The ATS disconnects one when the other is turned on. Generally, the generator is the "favored" source. But, it sure sounds like you have a problem between your battery and main fuse box, since 12 VDC things do not work unless your charger is supplying 12VDC. Use a digital voltmeter (start under $10). Shore power off, generator off. Check voltage at the battery-- positive to negative terminal. If 12+ VDC, keep going toward the main fuse box. Determine where you go from 12+ VDC between the positive side and any good chassis metal/ground. First place I would look is any large fuse or fusible link.

Rien, Assume you are talking about the dash A/C. Most pros fill by a set of gauges/use of site glass. Hopefully, someone will be able to look up the total system capacity for your chassis. What year model is the chassis?

Len, The generator will not directly charge the batteries. The 120 VAC power from either shore power or generator are used to power whatever device you have to charge the batteries. When he removed the inverter/charger, what replaced it. When you are plugged into shore power for a week, what keeps the batteries up (other than a solar panel)?

Leonardbarney, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First thing I would do is use a digital voltmeter (they start under $10) to check voltage at the batteries and then at the back (outside access door) of the refrigerator. Very rare for the refrigerator DC to go through the salesman switch/main switch by the door. There should be a fuse for the refrigerator-- if battery voltage is 12+ VDC, and no voltage at the refrigerator, locate the fuse. You may need to check with Newmar if you can't find it. What converter, charger or inverter/charger do you have? Just wondering if you can use your home outlet to charge the batteries? Brett

See if there is a hose (small diameter) from thermostat housing to coolant overflow tank. If so, that will bleed the air from the system as you slowly fill the system. If not, the thermostat housing is where you will need to loosen a line, hose, etc to bleed the air, since it is the highest point on the engine. Brett

With a propane generator, it is easy to rule out fuel as the cause (meaning the issue is ignition-related. Shut off the coach main 120 VAC breaker. Get a propane bottle/torch-- do NOT light it. Turn on propane with the nozzle of the torch in the air cleaner. If it tries to start, you have a fuel issue. If not, an ignition issue. You could also pull a spark plug wire and see if you have fire, but in many installations, the spark plugs are difficult to access.

Yup, we had a couple of days early this summer where we didn't drive due to heavy winds, and two with 40 MPH headwinds where we just resigned to stay in 5th gear and set the cruise at 45 MPH and do a short day's drive. Safety, comfort and urgency of schedule all factor in (in that order). But, weather affected our schedule FAR more when we sailed. We would sometimes wait 10 days for a weather window before taking off on long off shore voyages.

Gerald, First step is to properly identify exactly what the material is. Many seats have the seat manufacturers tag attached-- look under the seat. You would treat leather very differently than you would Ultraleather.

Herman, Dusting is literally the introduction of dirt particles into the engine through the intake. It is an abrasive and wears out the engine-- most moving parts. The amount of damage is related to how much dirt, what kind of dirt and how far it is run with dirt in it. Think of it as sandpaper on all moving parts. Water can do several different things to damage an engine: Weaken the air filter media, making a breakdown and subsequent ingestion of dirt (i.e. dusting) more likely. If ingested in sufficient quantity can cause hydrolock. Water is non compressible. When a cylinder fills with water, as the piston comes up, instead of compressing air tries to compress water. The result is that catastrophic damage occurs-- the rod bends, often going through the side of the block.

Welcome Rien and Yolanda. Where will you be using the camper?

Recommendation from Cummins (as well as all other diesel manufacturers) is: If you start it, drive it at least 25 highway miles-- the minimum to get the OIL up to operating temperatures. If you can't do that, don't start it. Ideal would be to take it for a drive once a month or so. And, make sure that your diesel tank is full to minimize condensation and that you have put a biocide in the fuel tank. Tire manufacturers recommend inflating tires to the max on the sidewall while in storage as long as it does not exceed the rim specs.

The answer to what is towable four wheels down is really TWO questions: One: is the legal/liability question. Two: is will it harm the vehicle mechanically. Since a 2008 is out of warranty, the second one is the question that is likely the more relevant to you. Remco is likely the best source to answer that question: http://www.remcoindustries.com/Towing/Store.php Brett

dcochran1167, That is a tough one. Two bad answers and no good ones on that. If brakes are not applied, yes the toad can hit the coach if coach brakes are applied. But, were you to shorten the lanyard (probably easily done) and the car is still attached with safety cables, one arm of the tow bar, etc you would quickly burn up the toad brakes-- thousands of dollars of damage likely. We are talking about brake calipers, disks and in extreme cases tires. With a powerful coach, you could smoke the toad brakes before you knew there was an issue. Your rear view camera is your friend. I glance it it (hitch just in view) each time I glance at the gauges. So, not sure that they made the incorrect decision about lanyard length. BTW, this applies to all brake away systems. Brett

IF (big if) there is still gel coat left, indeed it can generally be rubbed/polished out. Gel coat is many times thicker than paint. Have worked on many fiberglass boats (with quality gel coat) that had completely dulled. Started with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, then 2000 then rubbing compound, then polishing compound. Came out great. Suggest you try a small area to see what you can do with it. Again, if you can see the fibers, this will NOT work-- it only works on gel coat which is smooth with no fibers showing. Brett

As Rich said, it is difficult to tell from the picture, but to me the fiberglass looks pretty good except for the stripe area. Not sure I would do anything with it. If you do decide to address it, and the underlying fiberglass is in good shape, no problem painting it.

There are several well thought out threads on this in the "Towing" Section Here are two: http://community.fmca.com/topic/5534-towing-ford-edge-preventing-dead-battery/ http://community.fmca.com/topic/5257-toad-dead-battery-prevention/

jblink626, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Look at your GVWR sticker which is generally near the driver's area. It will state the correct OE tire and rim as well as pressure if each axle is loaded to GAWR. Let us know what the OE tire and wheel size are. Brett

No harmful affect at all. Just a quick re-program of the inverter/charger with the correct amp-hour capacity of the reduced battery bank. This is in your ProSine owners manual. Brett