wolfe10

To follow up on Bill's post, on one sidewall of each tire is the COMPLETE DOT number. The last 4 digits of the complete DOT number indicate the WEEK and YEAR the tire was produced. These last 4 digits are usually in a slightly raised/lowered area, as that part of the tire mold has to be changed weekly. Also look for any cracks in the sidewalls or tread area. Basically, if you can get your fingernail in the cracks, you need to replace the tires. Tires on an RV are very rarely replaced because of treadwear. The vast majority are replaced due to age and age cracking from sitting.

No, Caterpillar is no longer producing engines for any on-road applications with the exception of their joint venture for vocational trucks.

Herman, Depends on how the engine is used just prior to that shut down. If you have driven on city streets, into a CG, etc (i.e. light throttle) you are ready for an immediate shut down. Certainly, by the time you have checked in and arrive at your site, you are good to immediately shut it off. If you just climbed a long 5% grade and pulled off in an overlook vista at the top-- it DOES need cool down time.

Frozen up is one of the "best" failures you can have. It is when blades or parts of blades come off and continue in the intake system that turbo failure can get expensive. I am sure when he removed it that he checked carefully for any evidence of blade failure. One of the prime causes of turbo bearing failure (seizing up) is shutting off the engine without allowing 2-3 minutes for the turbo to spool down and cool off. This can cause the oil to "cook", and the carbon deposits can block adequate oil flow to the turbo bearings. Be sure the tech checks both supply and return line to make sure they are clean and open.

Have you verified that the fans ARE going to high-speed. Check, but on many, disconnecting the hydraulic fan controller wire defaults the fan speed to high. If it doesn't overheat with wire disconnected (again verify this is how yours is set up) suspect controller issue OR improper input to controller from engine computer.

An engine compression brake, AKA Jake Brake works by opening the exhaust valve as the piston comes to TDC. Clearly, if the exhaust valve were opening when you are on the throttle, power would be WELL down. No, I am not suggesting that is the issue-- clearly we can't make that determination over the internet.

Gary, Not sure I understand. If pressure test showed the cylinder good, why pull it down to look at the piston. I would think a bad piston/rings would show up on a pressure test. With that said, very difficult for us to do a better job of diagnosing an engine problem over the internet than a hands on tech for your engine brand.

Ron, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You might go back to the second post in this tread to identify if you have the faulty trailing arm design. I believe (you need to verify) that you have the 8 air bag Monaco suspension, not the 4 bag that had the trailing arm issues.

Charles, When you get this information, you might post it: Looking at the GVWR tag, what are your Front axle GAWR, Rear axle GAWR and Total GVWR? It is likely near the driver's area. What tires do you have-- brand and size?

Charles, I went back to your first post and put in the correct right side weight. You need three pieces of information for us to be able to help you: What chassis do you have-- basically is it leaf spring or air suspension? Looking at the GVWR tag, what are your Front axle GAWR, Rear axle GAWR and Total GVWR? It is likely near the driver's area. What tires do you have-- brand and size?

Start by taking the coach to a tire dealer and checking RUN-OUT. Even if balanced, an "egg shaped" tire will not perform well. Then, after verifying that run-out is less than .035", spin balance them on the rig. If tires are badly cupped or worn, rotate the best two tires to the front and then check the new front tires for run-out and balance.

Good idea to double check with mechanical gauge. Your chassis maker chose and installed the sender unit for the dash gauges. Check with them for it's location. But, yes, it is generally on the passenger's side of the engine. And, as the Caterpillar tech told you, if oil pressure is too low, the engine will just quit running, as oil pressure is used to "power" the fuel injection.

Howard, Two things can cause items powered by the key in the ON position to stay on with the key off. 1. First suspect is the IGNITION SOLENOID. Find it. It is "turned on/off" by receiving 12 VDC positive from the ignition switch. If the points are burned, they can hang up and keep those circuits hot, even if the signal from the ignition switch is turned off. Find it. Tap on it when you are experiencing the symptoms with the plastic handle of a screwdriver-- sharp, LIGHT rap. That may free up stuck points (temporarily)-- if this works, replace it. You can also check it electrically with a digital voltmeter (under $10). You should have 12 VDC positive to one of the large lugs all the time (from chassis battery). The other large lug should ONLY have power when the small signal wire from the ignition switch has 12 VDC positive. If both large lugs have power all the time, even if you have the key off and remove the small signal wire, the solenoid is bad. 2. If, however, that small signal wire has power (12 VDC positive) all the time, you have a problem in the ignition switch or wiring. In other words, it is telling the ignition solenoid to stay HOT (both large lugs with power) all the time. Brett

http://www.303products.com/303r-aerospace-protectant-16oz.html

I have not seen anything that indicates that Walmart's "Great Gas Rollback" has been extended: http://www.walmart.com/c/store/search?e=2013-spring-gas-rollback As far as I know, it ended 7/7/13. We used it a lot while it was on.

EXCELLENT, Doug. Thanks. If a picture is worth a thousand words, you just posted a novel.

I agree. If battery banks are not isolated AND you are on shore power (so that your converter, charger or inverter/charger is charging the house bank), it would also keep the chassis battery charged.

Yes, assuming one wiper of offset to one side, should be an easy loosen the splined connection and realign. On some, if the wiper is cocked/angled the smaller arm can be loosened and "aligned"-- basically pivoting the wiper around the attachment point.

Some good observations, and some "hoodo". While a smart charger or smart converter or smart inverter/charger can optimize charging perimeters for different battery technologies, they could care less if that 220 amp hour @12 VDC "battery" was made up of two 110 amp hour 12 volt batteries in parallel or two 220 amp hour 6 volt batteries wired in series. I would agree that either interior installation and/or difficulty accessing them WILL favor AGM batteries, as they are maintenance free AND don't out-gas unless severely overcharged.

I would certainly agree with checking that all connections in the ATS are TIGHT. Obviously, with the generator off, shore power off and inverter turned off.

Rich, If you are talking about tire covers, no question, white is best for the tires-- many degrees cooler than the black ones (though the black ones may LOOK cooler).

Actually, you have a good handle on it. Because wet cell golf cart batteries are sold in such huge volume, they are the least expensive deep cycle battery. But, cost of production is not that much different between 6 and 12 volt. As I mentioned above, no significant difference in price when you get to AGM's of the same quality and capacity. So, repeating, your first decision is whether you want/need AGM's. If not, golf cart batteries make a viable choice is sticking with wet cells.

There are good reasons for before AND after. Advantage of before: protects ATS. Advantage of after: protects rest of 120 VAC system from both shore and generator.

Don, We have driven 9 from Hachita (came in from Deming) on over to 80 and then on to Bisbee. No problem. Yes a back two lane road, but almost no traffic. We would take it again of going that way.

Butch, Let me make sure I understand the problem: When the A/C's reach temperature and turn off, ?the generator continues to run?. But, when the thermostat signals the A/C's to turn back on, the generator: DIES CONTINUES TO RUN BUT THE A/C'S DON'T START OTHER