wolfe10

BigBeaver, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. 130 degrees F is actually COLD for the transmission fluid. If that is a typo, what is the temperature that you are concerned about. And, under what conditions does it occur? Brett

Correct. Please check, but I suspect that the fan has not quit, but that with loss of vacuum, it is coming out the default position-- the defrost vents. Check for a vacuum leak or add a larger vacuum reservoir are in order.

Can't answer directly, but do a AL to PA and then PA to AL. I suspect it is actual drive time, and has nothing to do with time zones, but easy to verify. Brett

Lyle, If voltage does not drop below 108 VAC, let's look at the A/C. You will need to go on the room (if you can do that safely). With power to coach off, remove cover to the A/C. Make sure fan spins freely. Open the "electrical area" and make sure the capacitors have not leaked and are not deformed. Check connections-- clearly it is voltage at the A/C that you need, so a loose connection can cause a problem. If these things are good, the start capacitor is the likely suspect.

http://www.fmcmagazine.com/back-issues/2012/march/6972-allison-transmission-mode-button

Yes, a lower gear will keep engine temperatures down (and possibly speed up as well). It will NOT maximize MPG. You have correctly identified the "short answer" for how economy mode works. Some time back I wrote an article on use of the Allison mode button-- it is in the FMCA Magazine. Yes, the boost gauge does let you know that the turbo is working and the more boost, the more power and more fuel injected. But, the two other parts of the MPG equation are "how many times a minute does the piston come up to TDC and yell FEED ME (ya, every other time it comes up since it a 4 stroke motor)" and higher RPM means more piston/ring travel which means more friction, more power taken by the fan, etc. Best economy is at low RPM. Drive that way UNLESS coolant temperature starts going up or if going a few MPH faster is worth the extra diesel fuel. Brett

Yup, been getting diesel powered motorhomes inspected in Texas for 15 years with just the standard under $15 safety inspection fee.

Kay, Not sure what you mean by back off the throttle when "turbo pressure drops" to increase air to fuel ratio. I do watch my turbo pressure (on boost gauge). Backing off the throttle LOWERS boost pressure and also lowers amount of fuel injected. That will usually give you better MPG. The exception is that low RPM at high boost gives better MPG than high RPM, low boost. That is why Caterpillar, Cummins, etc tell you the most economical way to climb a grade is at low RPM. This is good advice UNLESS your coolant temperature starts to rise, in which case you need to raise RPM for higher water pump flow and higher fan speed.

Dennis/Rich, http://www.myersequip.com/Parts_Service_Forms/Service%20Class/Bus%20Tech%20I%202011/HDX%20Chassis%20Electrical%20TBB6002/service%20bulletin%20j1939%2054.15.pdf

Only two things I know of that an owner can do is verify that you have 12 or more volts to each of the two Allison 12 VDC positives, a good ground and that both shift pad to wire gang plug and both gang plugs on the ECU are removed, checked carefully for pins straight and tight and reconnect. Brett

Allison codes are a two digit followed by a two digit code. So, it would show XX followed by XX.

Suggest using the shift pad to check for diagnostic codes. That should tell you the issue.

Danny, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do other things that only work with the ignition on still work (like dash HVAC fan)? If no, the ignition solenoid is a likely suspect. If other things work, check BOTH fuses to the Allison ECU. Does the Allison shift pad light up? If so, have you used the up/down arrows to check for diagnostic codes? It is easy to do from the driver's seat with no tools and is well described in your Allison owners manual. If that is not available, also on Allison's website or we can give instructions.

Looks like a 7 pole trailer wiring connector. http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK12706.html

Herman, I would agree with you IF, repeat IF paint did not degrade the signal. He would need to confirm that first.

The towing guide also shows that it is a fairly heavy toad-- 4713 pounds for the two wheel drive version and 4956 for the all wheel drive version.

Cable routing is really coach dependent. With your Safari, look at coming down from the front TV area through the drivers forward pillar (between windshield and front left window). Remove the cover and you will see that you have room in there. Then down into front compartment, over fuel tank along with other existing wiring, through basement to your chosen location(s). Brett

Here is a wire size/amp table-- plug in the numbers. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm Be sure to plug in the ROUND TRIP distance. Looks like 2/0 will give you close to a full volt drop-- you want less. Again, bigger is better. Goal is a 3% drop. Brett

Assume these cables connect to the inverter(s). If so, you need to determine maximum amp that you will be carrying AND total roundtrip distance from battery positive to inverter and inverter to battery negative. Then, go to one of the many wire size/amp capacity tables to determine the proper minimum wire size using the 3% drop tables. An excellent source of large-gauge high quality cable is welding supply companies. And, many can swedge the proper ends on for you-- it does require special tools. Just put "welding cable" in your search engine and you will find some great sources. One other way to tell is to find out the largest gauge cable that will fit in your inverter's connections if they are designed to clamp on the cable rather than use a fastener. Brett

Interesting. Here is another one that made it across the big pond: http://community.fmca.com/topic/3424-found-1953-flxible-motorhome/?hl=flxible

Please confirm this is on a Ford F53 chassis. And have you confirmed that the sway bars and end links are in place and bushings in good condition?

Larry, A quick search on the FMCA main website showed this: https://www.fmca.com/home-mainmenu-1/fmca-store

OK, I sent this thread to a long-time refrigeration industry manager. Here is the reply I got: I am not a big fan of aftermarket add-ons. Not that they do or don't work, but if you take the fridge into an authorized service center, the first thing they would do is remove that item, since they would not know how to check it for function, then they would install a Dometic thermister and proceed. Testing an existing thermister can easily be done by immersing it in a glass of ice water to simulate 32 degrees and Ohms test the plug end at the control board for approx 8500 Ohms ( 5800 on the 1402 only). If over 10% off replace with Dometic Thermister Replacement Kit #330 7872.006 replaces the tip only with silicon sealing connectors - about $22. directly from Dometic. Thermister should be attached to the aluminum evaporator fin. Regards

Actually, they used both GM and Allison transmissions: P chassis used the GM W chassis used the Allison

Assume you have the Allison 3000 series transmission. If so, pull out your transmission owners manual and, using the shift pad, check for codes. Very easy with engine off, ignition on. You will push the up and down arrows at the same time TWICE (first push brings up fluid level which can not be checked unless transmission is up to operating temperature and running). Second push of both up and down arrow begins the diagnostic codes. You will have d-1 and then a two sequence code. If no codes, it will show d-1 - - . If there is a d-1, after you record the code, push the Mode button to bring up d-2. Continue to record/push Mode until d- whatever - - comes up. If you don't have the book , let us know the codes and we can look them up for you. Brett