wolfe10

Don, Yes, I see what you mean. Moving the low point further from the garage should solve the hitch issue, as the rear wheels would be headed "up hill" before the hitch gets to the garage itself.

Don, Perhaps I am not seeing the proper perspective from the photo, but it looks like your drive slopes away from the garage, so likely no "water into garage" issue. It also appears that you have plenty of height in the building, just not the door. Have you explored installing a taller door? Brett

Yup, many choices. Engineered wood, a high-end vinyl such as Congoleum Duraceramic that REALLY looks like ceramic tile, or as we just did in our coach a cork floor (U.S. Floors) throughout. Because of weight and inflexibility, actual ceramic tile would never be on my short list for a motorhome.

Yes, the shift pad can be used for checking oil level and for diagnostic codes. But, the plug must be used for an Allison dealer to do any programming change.

Rich, Low beams and high beams from front buss with fuse and 10 gauge wire to relay and relay to head light distribution terminal. Old head light wire is signal and new ground wire. Tail lights from battery isolator (convenient on our rig) with fuse.......

Tom, That left right shift could be a RIDE HEIGHT VALVE that is out of adjustment. You might check ride height.

Yup the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) will have wire bundle from shore power and generator coming in and the wire bundle to the coach 120 VAC breaker box going out.

What year, what chassis? Is the is a new issue, or an ongoing one? Have you measured voltage at the tail lights and compared with battery voltage? Have you temporarily rigged an additional ground for the lights-- did it improve the situation? If low voltage to the lights is the issue, it is easy and under $20 to rewire tail lights (or any others for that matter) through a RELAY so that they get full voltage. Did this on our present coach for tail lights, low beams and high beams. The original wires only act as the SIGNAL to close the relay, providing full battery voltage to the lights.

gwdoug2002, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What size/model Norcold do you have-- that will dictate what your choices are for a residential refrigerator replacement.

John, Excellent diagnostics and description. The operative here is your statement: Test light shows POWER to ignition wire, then soon it clicked OFF. Did this a few times. Assume you mean you have 12 VDC positive from the ignition switch when tested at the small terminal on the ignition solenoid. If, indeed this is what is getting 12 VDC positive and then loosing it, then the problem is "upstream" of the solenoid. The only fly in the ointment is that you said the jumper wire from battery lug of the solenoid to the signal terminal was getting hot. This should be only carrying about ONE amp (it doesn't take much power to close the contacts). Guess it is possible that a high amp draw by the solenoid could adversely affect the signal from the ignition switch. For example you could have a resettable breaker that is making/breaking because of excessive draw. If you have an ammeter, would be interesting to compare draw on the signal wire with specs for your solenoid. And, if you do replace the solenoid, yes, it needs to be CONSTANT DUTY and rated for well-more than the load it will be carrying. Many of us have gone to a more expensive and MUCH more reliable electronic switch such as this million cycle rated switch capable of 450 amps continuous and 1500 amps for one minute (cranking): http://www.bluesea.com/products/9012 On our last coach we went through 3 "regular" constant duty solenoids in the first 70,000 miles. Replaced it with the electronic switch and zero issues for the next 100,000 miles. And expect it to go for at least the life of the coach. Brett

Jim, Give Winnebago a call-- they can tell you very quickly where to look and how to troubleshoot.

Yes, if the chassis is torqued excessively, either by jacks, extreme, angled dip, etc, you CAN cause a stress crack in a windshield. And, unlike a rock chip, a stress crack can not be repaired.

A couple of point that may make this more understandable. A coach does not "use" 50 amp or 30 amp service. More accurately it is wired to "allow the use of up to XX amp service". If all you have on is a light bulb, that 50 amp service may only be providing 1 amp. And, some "RV math": With 50 amp service, you have TWO 50 amp hots. So a total of 100 amps AVAILABLE. If you look at the CG breakers, you will see two 50 amp breakers, not one. With 30 amp service, you have ONE 30 amp hot. So the difference in what you can use (number of amps available) is NOT 50- 30=20. It is 100- 30= 70!!!!! Said another way, you can use WAY less power on 30 amp service than on 50, not just a small difference. So, with 50 amp service, you have the two hots, a neutral and a ground (yup, that is 3 straight prongs and a round). With 15, 20 and 30 amp service, you have one hot, a neutral and a ground (two straights and a round). When using an adapter from 15, 20 or 30 amp shore power to 50 amp coach, the single hot in the male end connects to BOTH hots in the 50 amp end of the adapter. Brett

Note: Sam's comment about front air bag pressure applies to Chevy and Workhorse P chassis with independent front axles. It does NOT apply to Workhorse W chassis which have a solid front axle. That is why it is always a good idea to post specifics on your chassis.

Is tire pressure, particularly in front your tire manufactures recommendation for your ACTUAL WEIGHT, plus, perhaps a 5 PSI safety cushion? Well over or under-inflated tires really affect tracking. Have you had it aligned? Was CASTER set toward high end of specs? They will never drive like a car, but proper tire PSI, alignment, good sway bar bushings and perhaps track bars/panhard rods all help.

Yes, welcome from "across the pond". Leisure battery is a new term to us. Here we call them CHASSIS and HOUSE batteries. Which is the leisure battery and how is it supposed to be charged? And, as Stuart asked how long does it take to discharge? Have you had the batteries load tested after fully charging to verify that they are indeed in good condition? Normal means of charging over here are: Chassis battery: Alternator with engine running. On a few, also charged from the converter or charger when 120 VAC is supplied from generator or shore power. House battery: Alternator with engine running. From the converter or charger when 120 VAC is supplied from generator or shore power.

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, sounds like either an ignition switch OR the ignition solenoid. Easy to diagnose. Next time this happens (if it does) go to your ignition solenoid with voltmeter. Check for 12 VDC positive to the signal wire (small terminal) from the ignition switch. If no power, ignition switch or wiring from it (or fuse) bad. If power, but only one large lug of the solenoid is hot, the solenoid is bad. To test if no 12 VDC positive on the signal wire, connect a jumper (can be small-- only carrying less than one amp) between the large lug with 12 VDC positive to the small signal terminal that comes from the ignition switch. The solenoid should snap shut and you should have 12 VDC positive on both large lugs.

TallahasseeJoe,Have you had the alignment checked? If so, what was caster and toe-in. Both are important for tracking.

If not too oxidized, use a good paste wax on the fiberglass, but do not get the wax on the vinyl decals. If it is oxidized, start with a good compounding, then wax. Use 303 Aerospace on the decals.

Retiredhfd, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your chassis maker specs and installs the power steering system. What chassis do you have?

Do you have a painted coach? Gel-coated fiberglass? Filon? Are decals painted or vinyl?

Don't think I would take an RV over the Franklin Mountains on 375. We just plan on hitting El Paso at non-rush hour. Rarely get below 50 MPH on I 10.

Yes, some steering wheels can be centered by shortening/lengthening the drag link. BUT, that will also change the cut angle, which may require steering stop/steering box cut angle adjustment. I would call a good RV alignment shop such as Henderson or Precision Frame and Alignment to determine the correct way to do this on YOUR coach.

I would be more comfortable with through-bolting the seat belt bolts rather than using lag bolts (assuming you can access that area of the basement/undercarriage.

Please tell us what kind of motorhome you have so we can be of more assistance. Also, what kind of tank size you need for propane (what you are going to run on it) and how many PSI you need on the air. Thanks.