wolfe10

Guys, Let's try to keep this thread on track: "Keep your valves closed". Thanks.

Los MochIs is on highway 15-- the main north/south route from the western U.S. to the whole of Mexico's west coast. LOTS of RV's transit that highway every year.

But, as OP said, main breaker (the two 50 amp breakers pinned together) is OFF. So, no draw by converter or anything else can occur unless someone did some REALLY odd (and dangerous) wiring (since there would be something not wired through/protected by a breaker.

ainaire, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With the main coach breaker OFF, either you have a massive problem with shore power cord, surge protector, ATS or wiring to the main breaker box OR the surge protector is giving a false reading. I say massive problem as 20 amps @ 120 VAC turned into heat would be truly significant (you would see/smell it). I would start by checking connections at each of those locations: Both ends of shore power cord, wiring to surge protector, connections at ATS and connections into main breaker box. Look for signs of overheating, discoloration etc.

Chuckconnie, Please tell us what coach you have and what type of slide mechanism you have-- WAY too many different ones out there for us to speculate. Also, are the floor and slide OE or have either been modified?

FunGlamping08, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you in the Allentown PA area now? If not where are you and what is your route there so we can help. BTW, most towns have hydraulic shops who can make what you need. Check with any tractor dealer, a NAPA, etc.

Sometimes difficult to determine the root cause. Could have been started by loose prongs on a CG outlet you plugged into months ago. Once electrical connections start to degrade they can progress reasonably quickly, particularly if your current demand is high (resistance times amps= lots of watts of heating). If this is an outlet you use often (like at home), when you plug in, is the connection TIGHT (not easy to put in/pull out)? That is what you want. DeOxit can also be applied to the shore power prongs and pushed in/out/in out 5-6 times to "clean the contacts".

Short answer is BE CONCERNED. Resistance with current flow= heat. The more the heat, the more the wire/connection degrades producing more resistance. Repeat until something fails. And on 50 amp power, if the neutral fails, voltage has no "reference point" and can vary from extremely low to extremely high. This can easily damage 120 VAC appliances and the inverter/charger in your coach. Replace whatever has failed. Even if the root cause was a bad outlet, if the shore power cord has degraded, replace it/or at least the bad end.

Robert, Exactly what is rusted? Many of the burner area parts are not expensive and easy to install with just a screw driver in most cases.

Many corporate decisions in today's world are made more by bean counters than by engineers. Often this means weighing out cost of law suits vs an expensive fixes-- in this case for many thousands of refrigerators. Perhaps-- engineering by "what I can get away with". What will my bonus be THIS QUARTER often weighs more heavily than what is in the companies/customers long-range best interest. No question the ARP is both more expensive and does a far better controller of the cooling process for both cooling unit longevity AND safety. BTW, in my career (automobile business) I saw this very same mentality innumerable times. Even to extremes of removing a few pounds of iron from a block knowing that it would sag and lead to crankshaft failure (but only in out of warranty engines). Stepping off soap box now.

I would be very surprised if Damon removed the Freightliner tank and replaced it with a different one. I would sure contact Damon with your VIN to confirm.

Comment: Shocks CAN/DO contribute to ride harshness if they offer dampening on COMPRESSION. Yes, there are shocks that do the vast majority of their dampening on EXTENSION, so ride is softer, yet control is good.

alfanewfie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis-- that will determine the proper fuel tank.

RB, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. F450 or E450?

No, sorry, no recommendation, and that is with more than 50,000 miles SOB (South Of The Border). What does your insurance company come up with. Ball should be in their court if you are covered AND there is no repair they recognize where you are).

https://www.arprv.com/ A MUCH better control of the cooling process in absorption refrigerators.

Yes.

If you have an inverter, very easy to determine: With shore power disconnected, generator off, inverter on use some appliance to check which outlets are hot. And, the 120 VAC outlets look exactly the same as the ones in your home. Another option is one of the 12 VDC fans. Some of the higher quality ones are low enough draw that they can often be wired to your existing 12 VDC lights already in the area you where you want the fan. Here is one: https://www.hellamarine.com/en/products/accessories/fans/turbo-fan.html That one draws just slightly more than 1/2 amp.

Hopefully, someone will know of a closer one. This one is in Searcy Arkansas: https://www.rvfogdr.com/ Another option: https://www.daverootrvglassrepair.com/window-repair-kits.html

John, Tell us what roof covering you have. Answers for fiberglass roof may not be relevant for one of the membrane-covered roofs.

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Where are you located? There are several companies around the country that specialize in rebuilding fogged windows.

See if your inverter/charger has an option for limiting the amps of 120 VAC used for battery charging. I know that newer ones of the same make/model DO. May be called power share or power save. If so, cut back on the allowable amps.

Robert, First, a question: Why did he say to not run it on propane? Have you ever run it on propane, and if so, how did it perform?

To clarify wiring for 4 12 VDC batteries WIRED IN PARALLEL: Positive of battery #1 to house positive and to positive of battery #2. Positive of battery #2 to positive of battery #3. Positive of battery #3 to positive of battery #4. Negative of battery #1 to negative of battery #2. Negative of battery #2 to negative of battery #3. Negative of battery #3 to negative of battery #4 Negative of battery #4 to house ground.

No problem at all. But, if you have a "smart" inverter/charger, be sure you have it properly programmed. Instructions are in your inverter/charger owners manual and/or on-line at your inverter/charger's website.