wolfe10

I think you will find that many diesels are rated at full HP up to 10,000' due to their turbo "making air". Yes, normally aspirated engines, both gasoline and diesel do loose HP with altitude due to thin/less air.

Check with KVH for a list of compatible receivers. If obsolete, go to e-bay or other source for one.

Good job. You are welcome.

The Mazda rotary engine may be a poor example of correct viscosity oil for the remaining (99.9%) of vehicle engines that are piston not rotary engines. Tolerances on today's engines are far finer than in years past. So the correct oil for a 20 years old engine will likely NOT be correct for today's engines. STRONG recommendation: use the viscosity recommended by the engineers who designed your engine, not my opinion or anyone elses.

bsinmich is correct. Their data is based on the numbers. While that IS a reasonable starting place, they would rank ANY 34' DP as unacceptable based on WB/OL alone. Sadly, that means even coaches with sophisticated suspensions (example 34' Foretravel with 8 outboard air bags and 8 Koni shocks) rank no better than the least expensive leaf spring or 4 air bag suspension. THAT is the flaw IMO. Again, good starting point, but that's all.

This is a definite "Opinion" issue. While engines requiring DEF are more complex, they have more HP, better MPG and less emissions than the older ones. Kind of like when gasoline engines went to catalytic converters. If someone knows of a statistical evaluation or reliability rather than an opinion-based one, would like to see it.

In addition to verifying that the gas jet orifice is clean, you will need to clean the burner tube (remove and clean) and check ignitor gap.

Membership date on the Forum is not the same as the date one joins FMCA. So, if he just joined the Forum, and has been a member of FMCA for years, that all makes sense. Brett

Suggest you do/have done the burner area tune-up. If still an issue, check gas pressure with a manometer. BTW, you can easily build a manometer for under $5.

Outside access area. At the bottom of the flue (chimney).

CORRECT!

If bunk beds are a "must have", that will really limit your selection. Let us know if this or any other factors are "must haves".

Since Forum rules prohibit for sale ads, if anyone does know of one, might PM (Private Message) Rivercabins. Thanks. Moderator

http://towdemco.com/baseplate-fitlist/towedconnectors/

Batsome, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You need to tell us what brand and model jack you have for us to be of service. Have you Googled the brand an checked their website or an on-line manual? Another alternative is to call them for troubleshooting help.

Ken, Suggest you use a digital voltmeter to check voltages. Start at the house batteries. Take readings at both sides the disconnect relay/mechanical switch. Next at the 12 VDC fuse box for house circuits. In other words, VERIFY whether you have a problem. Trust your voltage readings a lot more than those idiot battery status lights. Let us know what you find.

Hlswaim, No way to know until you/someone else removes the cover and checks all the wiring (with 120 VAC power OFF). Be aware that the capacitors could still retain quite a charge. Brett

Pull out your refrigerator owners manual and to the burner area tuneup. It is recommended preventive maintenance once a year. No special tools and no parts are needed. Issues that could cause this that are addressed in the tuneup are: Debris or rust in the burner tube. Improper ignitor gap. Debris or rust between ignitor and ground. Dirty propane jet causing too small a flame to trigger the thermocouple. Only after doing each step in your book should you consider "throwing parts at it". Brett

No, it is not listed in the 2002 Towing Guide. Go to the FMCA main page, scroll over Motorhoming and click on Towing. Select: Towing Guides-- towing four wheels down. Then the year model you are interested in.

Yes, the Source Engineering trailing arms are an excellent solution to the original poor-design trailing arms. Any shop that works on truck suspensions can do the work.

Tom, Yes, removing the step REQUIRES installing a large-diameter "drain" through the floor (built-in vacuum compartment) and basement floor below the propane burner in case of a propane leak. On your U240 this is an easy modification. The gain is a larger refrigerator-- two cubic feet larger. A quick google for the 3962: http://www.campingwo...-0-cu-ft-/34425

Dan, If you just want to substitute a switch or even male/female connectors for the thermostat, remove the wires from the thermostat and wire the switch or connectors in its place. It is late now. PM if you want me to call you in the morning. Brett

Dan, Welcome to the FMCA forum. A simple solution is to replace the thermostat with a simple switch. That way you can turn the fans on during the hot part of the day and off at night. In fact,that is how I have mine wired-- to a switch over the galley (hot) direct to the fans and then from there to ground. Even simpler short term solution: at any auto parts house get protected (insulated) male and female connectors and to wire to thermostat IN and OUT. Connect them when you want power to the fans. Brett

Yes, check with your Ford dealer fora copy of the step by step recommendations for changing the plugs in your engine. And, if one is stripped, there is a kit to install a permanent insert.

Tom, Very familiar with replacing a refrigerator in a 1993 U240. And the Dometic 4804 is unique in that it has a 120 VAC compressor in the lower front. To install any new refrigerator means re-designing the floor to remove the "stair step". Not a big job if you are even reasonably handy. We replaced our 4804 with a Dometic 3962-- one of the new generator (larger interior and external temperature display) refrigerators and are happy with it. Other than the floor modification which you will need with any refrigerator, it required minimal trimming of one side of the trim. I have no first hand experience with any helium units. Brett