wolfe10

Yup, TOTALLY different engine with very different emissions systems.

Many RV shops have PC board TESTERS. Check with the shop you are using to see if they have one. If so, pull the old board and have it tested before you replace it. And, as Rich said, before assuming the board may be bad, unplug the connector and use a pencil eraser or a good electrical cleaner such as De-oxit to clean the connection and board. Verify that you have `12+ VDC to the PC board AND that you have a good ground (ground wires/screws are a source of issues).

Guess I'll weigh in on this one-- I think this thread has gone about as far as it can. If you need a new inverter and you can afford a true sine wave inverter GET IT. Can a MSW inverter successfully power your new refrigerator? Best advice-- call the refrigerator manufacturer for their advice. Everyone-- have a great Thanksgiving holiday. Brett

Gary, I just bought new tires for our toad. Sam's Club has $70 off their "discount price" on a set of Michelins-- that's what I did last Thursday.

Same for Silverleaf.

I agree. Brett

Clyde, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what engine you have. Also, what transmission. Is this bucking new or has it always done it? How many miles on it?

Tony, Certainly, start by checking for diagnostic codes. Go to Allison's website for a list of the codes if you have them. Also, check for power (12 VDC positive) to both transmission inputs and that connections at the ECM and shift pad are clean and tight.

Actually, TWO questions about your present inverter: Does it have enough capacity and is it a sine wave or modified sine wave inverter. Many residential refrigerators are not happy with MSW inverters. And, as Ross said, many inverters have built in transfer switches. You should either choose one of them or figure on adding another ATS to the system if you want the transfer automatic. Brett

Here is a step by step description of the process. Very low tech, but it does take time (on the Diesel RV Club Technical Forum-- an FMCA Chapter): http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,6653.0.html Note on Edit: Link Updated 7/14/13.

If you are asking if a qualified propane tech could shut off and cap your on-board vapor port and route the line from the vapor port to an external bottle (likely with an extension) the answer is YES. Have you not been able to find a propane company who will fill your on-board tank?

Just saw this new handicap equipped coach listed at PPL in Houston: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/classa/2003-Winnebago-Sightseer-22818.htm

With a tire pressure monitoring system, as that tire heated up, the PSI would rise along with it. Pretty easy to see that one tire is higher pressure than the other(s) on that axle. So, they can alert you to too much PSI (due to heat) as well as too little (due to a leak).

Actually I am a big fan of the new generation OAT-based coolants. 6 year life, no SCA testing or adding! If you do your own labor it is less expensive than the three year change with standard diesel coolant. If you pay to have it done, it is a LOT less expensive (little more than half the labor over a 6 year period.

BretWayne, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The chassis maker decides whether to fit a coolant filter. The Caterpillar engine in our Foretravel has one, many chassis with the same motor do not. As you know from your OTR trucking background, SCA's can be added as a liquid or by changing the coolant filters (they come with different amounts-- called UNITS of SCA). My first question, if this is a recent purchase is how old is the coolant in there now and as importantly what coolant is it? At 13 years old, it is unlikely to be the original coolant chosen by the chassis maker (we sure hope not). It could be another "low silicate for diesel with added SCA" coolant, or it could be one of the new generation OAT-based coolants. If you don't know for sure, were it mine, I would replace the coolant now so you know what is in there and that it is properly protecting the cooling system. Brett

Koliver. A Tire Pressure Monitoring System will prevent a lot of this kind of damage. It will alert you of a loss of tire pressure on coach or toad.

The other part of the equation is to have a battery bank of sufficient size (expressed in amp-hrs) to "power" the inverter. Location of the inverter is also critical-- it needs to be as close to the house battery bank as possible, but NOT in the same compartment.

Occasionally we see requests for Handicap Accessible coaches. Just saw this one on PPL's website in Houston: http://www.pplmotorh...tseer-22818.htm 2003 Winnebago Sightseer 31'. 31,530 miles. Asking $26,495. Brett

Steve, Do you have a reference to a website that compares insulating qualities of these various options: Single pane "regular" glass Thermopane Laminated glass Any significant difference in weight or other considerations?

Joe, Thanks for the update. Glad you are back on the road with the problem fixed. That damage is a new one on me-- have seen quite a bit of wiring insulation chewed by rodents, but never bushings.

For information on the Allison Mode Button, read my article "Allison Transmission Mode Button": March 2012 page 40.

Air dryers on OTR trucks are the same as on motorhomes. So, look for a truck service facility. Dryers can be rebuilt, replaced with new or with reman units. STRONG recommendation: Because of the importance of your air system (brakes and suspension) I would only go with factory parts (the ones who built your air dryer) or replacements. This is not a place to save a few bucks by allowing them to use "almost as good" parts. If you look at the dryer, you can determine the brand. That will help when you start calling around. Your chassis maker could also tell you what dryer you have.

David, Yes, the charger could be a problem. But, one dead cell in a battery will cause the same symptoms. A perfectly functioning charger will try to charge 5 cells (5 good ones and one dead one) at the proper charge voltage for 6 cells. That WAY overcharges the 5 good ones. That is why you never combine old batteries with new ones. If the old one dies, the result is way overcharging the good one(s).

Bill, Please tell us what chassis/engine you have. Comments about a Chevy 454 with carburetor would be of little help to you if you have a 2006 Ford V10.

Marty, What both Rich and I are suggesting is that this is a 12 VDC high-amp breaker. Nothing to do with the 120 VAC system. Glad you found the culprit. Sounds like you are back on the road--excellent.