wolfe10

Bill, Often there is a small amount of tolerance in the ride height specs-- as an example, 10" +/- 1/4". Sometimes you can "tweak" the ride height within the specs to better balance the weights. Check with your chassis maker.

Ken, It is unlikely that a bad cell in a house battery would discharge the chassis batteries, as the two battery banks are separated on most coaches. With your low battery, best advice is to fully charge ALL batteries (separately is best) and then load test them. If these are wet cell batteries, another easy/inexpensive option is to buy a battery hydrometer at any auto parts house (under $10) and after and only after fully charging them check their Specific Gravity. A bad cell will give all kinds of electrical problems, so eliminate that as a cause first. It this the likely cause of all your electrical issues? Probably not, but replacing a bad battery is a good place to start. Brett

Bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, different floorplans-- ones with much more "stuff" on one side can be substantially heavier on one side than the other. And, yes, this can also be caused by suspension issues. Luckily these are fairly easy to check and adjust. You will have three RIDE HEIGHT VALVES that control ride height. Two on one axle and one on the other. Check with your chassis maker for your "ride height specs". They are generally measured from a given point on the axle to a given point on the chassis. IF you have safety stands and basic mechanical skills, you can check this yourself. But do NOT go under a motorhome, particularly to work on the suspension height without safety stands. And, as you have already mentioned, you can move your personal gear around to put the heavier stuff on the lighter corner. Because most tanks are on center, they have little effect on left/right weight distribution. Brett

As I said: "And, you have confirmed that the alternator is charging both battery banks."

No, not all coaches are wired for the converter, charger or inverter/charger to charge the chassis batteries. And, of course the same thing would apply to both shore power and generator power-- they are just different sources of 120 VAC for the converter, charger or inverter/charger. And, you have confirmed that the alternator is charging both battery banks. Assume that your generator DID charge the house battery bank. Brett

Well, if the alternator only quits charging when hot, a quick test at an alternator shop may not show it bad. I can think of only a few things that can cause those symptoms: Bad alternator Bad regulator (may be build into the alternator or may be separate) Bad connections, particularly if remote sense alternator. Verify that the alternator belt is properly tensioned.

Couple if possible issues: With generator running, both the 120 VAC converter, charger or inverter/charger should be charging at least the house battery and on many coaches the chassis battery as well. With the engine running, the alternator should also charge both battery banks. The alternator and converter both working together can lead to some strange voltage readings. But, it sounds like you have a ground or battery connection issue. After checking connections, use a voltmeter and move from batteries toward the house to see where you are loosing power.

Contact the maker of the monitor system-- no need to guess how it works.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, the manual transmission Honda Fit IS towable 4 wheels down.

This is an important safety concern. Please take it to a Ford dealership ASAP-- do not use the Cruise Control until this is remedied. Probably something as simple as a brake switch or loose wire, but it needs to be addressed. And, yes, the Ford V10 IS a high RPM engine with max HP of 362 horsepower at 4,750 rpm.

I have turned hundreds of rotors that WERE warped and metal had to be removed to true them. And, if badly warped, they would go under-spec if turned enough to true them-- so they need to be replaced. Brett

If just dirt, a garden hose and garden nozzle will work just fine. If the debris includes oil or grease, Dawn dishwashing detergent and/or Simple Green for Aluminum works well. Do not allow detergent to dry on the metal. If neglected long enough, it is an expensive issue, as the radiator and CAC may have to be pulled to clean them. Brett

Bob, Same question and the probably solution: http://community.fmca.com/topic/4424-radiator-cleaning-dp/

October 2011. http://www.fmcmagazine.com/back-issues/2011/october/6792-rear-radiator-cleaning Brett

ewvwpearl, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would have the alignment checked on the Saturn. Set caster to the high side of specs. Also, as with any toad, make sure that the hitch is level. If you need a drop hitch to make it level, do that. Brett

Ron, Assuming you have the Caterpillar secondary fuel filter with manual primer pump, turn the knurl nut/pump handle counter-clockwise to unlock. Pump until it goes from very easy to very hard (the transition will occur within just a couple of strokes as compressible air is replaced by non-compressible fuel). Screw the knurl nut/pump handle clockwise to lock it. Your fuel system is now primed and ready to go. If you do not have the Caterpillar secondary fuel filter with primer pump, let us know. Verify that the primary filter is 10 or 30 micron and the secondary filter is 2 micron. And, you are correct, sadly, not diesel with run on just air. Brett

Anyone with a DP with air dryer has a great source of dry air. Gas station air, you are correct, good luck.

Having lived in Juneau and driven the Alcan 3 times and cruised to Alaska 8 times starting with our honeymoon in 1975, I agree with Bill. By far the more spectacular scenery on the way to Alaska is by water. Want to REALLY see Alaska, take the Alaska Marine Highway system with your RV and get off at each port. After seeing that port, board the next ferry.

If you do this (install a screen, whether commercially available or homemade), use the most "open mesh" that will keep the mud dubbers out. Keeping insects out is good-- restricting air flow is BAD. Not all RV manufacturers do the prescribed refrigerator installation (void between refrigerator top and roof vent, incorrect clearance back of refrigerator to outside wall, etc). So maximizing air flow is always a good idea. Brett

Another alternative that does not require moving a "box" is http://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/braking/invisibrake/index.html

You need to diagnose the issue with your vacuum system. Could be the vacuum switch or the pump or even a breaker supplying it. I would start by hooking up a voltmeter to the line to the vacuum pump and verifying whether you are loosing 12 VDC when the vacuum pump stops working. Brett

Viscous hub fans on Freightliner chassis were rare. Check with Freightliner with your chassis VIN to confirm the type of fan control your chassis has. Brett

Ron, On the coach-- using it right now.

http://www.wavewifi.com/rogue-wave.html Installed antenna on extendable pole to clear top of motorhome. Ran ethernet cable to pole/antenna can be left attached for storage in the basement and then "erected" in less than 2 minutes. Brett

With the Caterpillar 330 HP and Allison 6 speed, you have an EXHAUST BRAKE. Yes, the transmission downshifts when the exhaust brake is applied.