wolfe10

Looks like you are covered. But, since we don't know what coach and/or converter or inverter/charger you have, be aware that if it is an inverter/charger, it is programmable. If you have an inverter/charger, let us know what you have and we can help you to "fine tune" it for your batteries.

That would be well down my list of how to address this. Running any engine under no load allows moisture build up in the crankcase. That in addition to using a lot of fuel to turn a lot more cylinders than are needed to spin the alternator. If you don't have a digital voltmeter, a good idea to get one. They start under $20.

Not a simple answer. Yes, your house battery bank should remain charged by your converter or inverter/charger. But, not all coaches have a means of charging their chassis battery from shore power. Safest answer is, after a couple of days, check voltage at both battery banks with a digital voltmeter. That will give you the FACTS for your coach. And, if the chassis battery is not being charged, there are several common remedies that do include running the main engine.

Have you checked the "dip switches" to verify that your inverter/charger is correctly set for YOUR batteries? Sorry, I don't recall if that vintage Freedom 20 has power share/power save feature. Newer ones absolutely do.

What converter, or inverter/charger do you have? If the latter, have you use power share/power safe to select 5 amps? That limits the amount of 120 VAC that can be used for charging. The resulting charge rate is around 50 amps into the batteries.

https://www.fmca.com/rv-tires-discounts Find your nearest commercial Michelin Advantage RV tire dealer. Go to https://www.michelintruck.com/tools/dealer-locator/#/ and enter your zip code in the dealer locator. The dealers will be listed in the order closest to your location. Select the dealer that best suits your tire needs. NOTE: To purchase Michelin or BF Goodrich tires for your light truck or passenger car, you must use an authorized commercial Michelin dealer that sells all three types of tires: commercial truck, light truck, and passenger car AND that accepts the Michelin Advantage Program. Find a local Continental dealer who can do the install, and set up an appointment. Also let the dealer know which tire you are looking for. That way, you can be sure the dealer will have the tires in stock and ready for your appointment. You can find a list of dealers at www.continental-truck.com/truck. From that page, select Dealer Locator in the top right corner. Find a Hankook dealer and get a quote. First, find the closest Hankook RV tire dealer by using the following link: https://www.hankooktire.com/us/services-tips/find-a-dealer/view-all.html Search by address, city, or zip/postal code. Choose the dealer that is most convenient for you and equipped to service your needs. Next, determine the tire size and tread design you need, then find the price using the Tire Savings Calculator found at: https://www.fmca.com/rv-tires-discounts.

Excellent. Make sure you screw the plunger back in when you are finished priming (turn it clockwise to re-lock it in place).

Sorry, need some clarification of " Engine will try to turn over, but doesn't. " Doesn't turn over or turns over slower than normal or turns over at normal speed but doesn't try to start? AND, which fuel filter set up do you have?

Several variations to the fuel system (all chosen by Freightliner, your chassis maker): Best: Primary fuel filter (10-30 micron element), lift pump, secondary fuel filter (2 micron element) with Caterpillar manual primer pump. If you have this set-up, install filters dry and use the manual primer pump to prime. When hard to push, you are done. Go start the engine. Next best: 2 filters with bulb-type primer pump. Again, push the primer button/bulb until hard. Next best: 2 filters with no primer pump. If secondary is a Caterpillar filter head, a Caterpillar manual primer pump can easily be added (remove two bolts and replace the block off plate). Worse: a single fuel filter and no primer pump. Here you HAVE TO FILL THE FILTER, and if level of fuel in fuel tank is lower, fuel will flow all the way back to the tank when you remove the filter element, leaving you with 25+ feet of AIR in the fuel line. Now, as to your "no start", please tell us exactly how far into the start cycle you get: Ignition on, Allison shift pad illuminated and in Neutral. After waiting for intake manifold heater light to go out, it will not crank. It cranks, but not at normal speed. Cranks at normal speed, but doesn't try to start. Tries to start, but runs ragged, like not all cylinders are firing.

Pat, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What brand awning do you have? Also, model if you know it.

Mike, The way I am reading that Shell site, you have the "least good"/least expensive/least long-lived coolant they make. Bean counter selection??? So, my first question is "how old is it". The coolant "went to work" the minute it went into the cooling system at Freightliner. Most of the basic coolants have a life expectancy of 3 years-- that Shell link says "2-3 years". Suspect you are very close to that. Yes you can test it (link to test strips below), but if you are going to keep the coach, I would sure put flush and fill with one of the new generation/no maintenance coolants on the "to do list". http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?PartNum=24105 You should be able to get test strips like this from any HD diesel shop. Be aware that the test strips have a limited life (at least on the Wix strips, the "use by date" is on the foil packet).

Mike, Please post a link to the exact coolant-- we don't want to take a chance on giving mis-information. Again, testing and adding SCA's are only for the older generation "low silicate for diesels with added SCA" coolants. They are not added to the new generation coolants-- in fact, can contaminate them.

Yes: http://www.safe-t-plus.com/ And as others have said, do the basics first. THEN consider after-market devises (and the Safe-T-Plus is a good one).

Sorry, not familiar with the term "safety bar system". Are you referring to a panhard rod/track bar, sway bar, steering dampner, other? Thanks.

sis1of4ch, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not possible for us to be able to answer that question without knowing what triggered the check engine light. Do you have Silverleaf, Scan Gauge D or other monitor that can give you the diagnostic code? If not, you might also check with a Caterpillar dealer in Ft Worth to see if they can download the codes for you. Assume you have checked the obvious: Oil level, coolant level, voltage.

Mike, Just to be clear, PEAK Final Charge does not require testing and adding of SCA's if this is the product you have. It is one of the new "maintenance free" coolants. https://www.peakhd.com/product_lines/final-charge/ https://www.peakhd.com/product_lines/final_charge/faq/ Q: Do I need to test for SCA or nitrite levels? A: No. FINAL CHARGE GLOBAL Coolant/Antifreeze, which features a patented inhibitor system that is phosphate-free, silicate-free, nitrite-free and borate-free, reduces inhibitor drop out and eliminates the need for SCA’s and routine testing of inhibitor levels. To maintain the protection of FINAL CHARGE Coolant/Antifreeze proprietary inhibitor system, proper cooling system maintenance is required.

Mike, Please tell us what BRAND and MODEL jacks you have.

DEKDO1, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. May be two separate issues: Smart chargers, including those built into inverter/chargers are programmed to NOT charge deeply discharged batteries. That could explain why it would not charge a battery at 8 VDC. As to why it would not charge the batteries when above 12 VDC-- that is another matter. If a new problem since installation of the new batteries, first suspect is that the wires are not hooked up properly. OR, someone inadvertently connected them backwards and blew a fuse in the charging system. Pull out your voltmeter and start tracing.

Ladder brackets: https://shopfmca.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fladder-brackets-set-of-2 Plates, brackets and plate hangers: https://shopfmca.com/shop?olsPage=t%2Fplates

Need to differentiate between static load and load when driving. Affect/momentum of 150 pounds is quite different on a big bump! and the further behind the axle, the more coach motion would affect it.

one.click.away, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. For very high amp draws, shorter cable runs are better. And, starting a 9 liter diesel certainly qualifies. So, in theory this is a GOOD idea. You will need a safe, vented new location,preferably clean as well (having them in the path of dirt and water thrown up by rear wheels would not be an advantage). This will change weight distribution, but unless the rear axle is close to its GAWR, this should not be a problem. You will need new cables from new location to engine-- both positive and ground. You will need a large-gauge cable from the new location to the battery boost/combine switch. You will want a connection to a means of charging the new location for the chassis batteries from 120 VAC (or just add a new one).

jpippin@onlineok.com, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. No simple answer here. Factors include quality of OE shock, miles on them, how rough the roads are that you travel, ride height in spec, etc. Best answer is to bounce test them. Unlike a car where you can push up/down on the bumper to check shock condition, you would need a pretty big "pet gorilla" to do that on your coach. But, those parking lot speed bumps can service the same purpose: Drive over them at regular, low speed. If you bounce more than 1.5 times, shocks on that axle need to be replaced. And, depending on age of your shocks, there may be some shocks with improved performance (both better handling AND better ride).

Probably some confusion here. For decades, all marine wire is PRE-TINNED. It is the expensive wire. The thin tin coating on all strands protects the copper which just loves to turn into COPPER OXIDE (that "green stuff" that doesn't conduct electricity). There is a high-end pre-tinned wire: http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/products/wire-and-cable

chris8601, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Very likely the air bags were not an original part of the chassis from Workhorse. May have been added by Coachman or a previous owner. I would start by getting RIDE HEIGHT SPECS for your chassis. Measure all four corners to see how far out of spec you are. Then, look for an old fashion truck spring shop. They can best advise on whether an additional leaf, shim or new springs are needed.

Be aware than coach year can be DIFFERENT then chassis year and that chassis year can be DIFFERENT than engine year. Best advice, get the engine serial number. That will tell you what EPA specs/what "after engine" devices were used to clean up the exhaust.