wolfe10

Tom, You are correct, there is a slight (very slight) risk in that components from shore power cord (male end) to coach main breaker box would have available to them up to 50 amps before tripping the CG breaker. It would take a virtual dead short to even bring this issue (difference between 30 amp and 50 amp) into play. The 30 amp main breaker and individual breakers in the coach 120 VAC breaker box protect the rest of the coach electrical system, exactly as it does when plugged into 30 amp In the real world, these adapters and their use have been around for a long time. And so we don't cause undue confusion, the voltage and wiring (other than offering more amps) is just fine. The adapter's male 50 connects to only ONE of the 50 amp outlet's two available 120 VAC hots, the neutral and the ground. And your current 30 amp service has just the same, one 120 VAC hot, one neutral and one ground. Brett Wolfe

Yes, you will need a 50 amp MALE to 30 amp FEMALE adapter. Here is one from Camping World: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/...th-handle/48858 Brett Wolfe

Seajay, Virtually all parts controlling the propane firing of the water heater can be diagnosed and replaced WITHOUT removing the water heater. They are accessible from the outside water heater door. And Atwood recommends against hot rods because of electrolysis/possible thread damage to the aluminum tank threads. Your decision on this. Brett

Seajay, Open the Atwood outside access door. You should have labels for ECO and TStat right there and easily accessible. Not difficult to replace. Also, remove the connector from the PC board and clean the contact area with a pencil eraser while you are there. Good luck. We don't want Willa to have to take cold water showers. Brett

If your Safari has the B.F. Goodrich Torsilastic suspension (also called Velvet Ride) Ralph DOES have the parts you need. And going to a new torsilastic beam if your old one is bad (normal symptom of bad beam is that ride height is too low AND you are out of adjustment shims) you are much better off replacing the torsilastic parts vs patching together an air over torsilatic suspension. Use Ralph's e-mail address I posted above. If Ralph does not contact you, please send me a Private Message and I will contact him. Again, the only problem is that there is a limited number of these parts found in the Monaco/Safari warehouse and there have been no "known" parts available for 5+ years. Also PM me if you have questions about the suspension. I worked with B.F. Goodrich on this suspension on the Foretravel applications. Brett Wolfe

Country Coach told Allison what "Pre-select" gear they wanted programmed into the transmission ECU. The pre-select gear it that gear that the transmission will shift toward when the exhaust brake is selected. Actually, it is the gear toward which the transmission will downshift, one gear at a time as soon as speed/engine RPM are low enough that a downshift will not overspeed the engine. The Allison will never downshift in such a manner to harm the drivetrain. 2nd and 4th are typical pre-select gears. Any Allison dealer can re-program the ECU with any pre-select gear you choose (around $100). I had mine programmed for 5th gear for the reason you are describing. In fact, coming down the 5% grade into Benson Az last week 5th gear with exhaust brake on was just perfect. There is no "perfect" choice for the pre-select gear. When coming to a stop, 2nd is great (but is not ideal for highway driving). On the freeway, a 5th gear pre-select is excellent, but requires more driver input (use of down arrow) in slower conditions. So it is an individual decision. As Tom said, you can also use the transmission down arrows without engaging the exhaust brake. Again, you can not mess anything up-- down arrow 5 times to select 1st gear at 60 mph and the ECU will interpret this as "Please downshift one gear at a time until 1st gear is reached, but only downshift when it will not overspeed the engine in the next lower gear". Brett Wolfe

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your Caterpillar 3126 engine serial number will be on the sticker on the valve cover (top of engine) toward the front of the engine/rear of coach-- access it through the bedroom or closet. The serial number will be on the top line SER. NO. followed by the number. When you find it, call the Caterpillar RV Hotline at 877 777-3126 and ask for a service history. If a Caterpillar dealer performed any service AND communicated it to Cat, they will have a record. If you can't prove that the initial valve adjustment has been performed, get it done. If coolant is over three years old OR tests bad with SCA test strips, replace coolant and thermostat(s) (some 3126's have two thermostats which Caterpillar calls regulators). To speed your learning curve (and have fun at the same time): There are two upcoming “fun" learning experiences for diesel pusher owners coming up in your area. You might want to consider joining the Cat RV Club. http://catrvclub.org/ I will be presenting two maintenance seminars along with a lot of good times (the Club is NOT just for gear heads) in Amarillo March 8-12: http://catrvclub.org/rally_info.htm The FMCA (Family Motor Coach Association) Convention follows two weeks later in Albuquerque: http://www.fmca.com/index.php/conventions/albuquerque Another great time AND good learning experience. Brett Wolfe

Let me correct some of the misunderstandings out there about the use of Nitrogen in tires. Let's start by looking at the options for inflating tires: 1. Nitrogen 2. DRY air 3. "Normal" WET air There is virtually no difference between Nitrogen and dry air when it comes to PSI change with temperature change. Both follow Boyles law (Physics is physics, irrespective of what sales literature says). Now, wet air (like from any air compressor without a dryer) is a very different matter. And most air from those convenience store coin op compressors is WET. Water is clearly not an "ideal gas" and PSI changes more with temperature than for a gas. Nitrogen molecules average very slightly larger than "air" (which is 78% Nitrogen anyway), so leakage will be slightly less. Nitrogen is not reactive so filling a tire with it will be slightly better for the tire and rim than air which has Oxygen which will deteriorate the tire. But most tire oxidation/cracking occurs from the outside of the tire. Clearly, wet air is much worse. My opionion-- Nitrogen is slightly better than dry air for your RV tires. Dry air or Nitrogen are both a LOT better than regular "wet" air from those 7-11 coin operated compressors. Whether Nitrogen is worth it is up to your budget and what you will have to pay. If you are a welder and have it in your shop, great idea. Brett Wolfe

Campgrounds within Big Bend National Park: http://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm Note, the Basin is NOT accessible with vehicles longer than 24'. The rest are fine for any size vehicle. Rio Grande village has nice level sites and dry camping. There is a concession-run parking lot CG at Rio Grande Village with electricity. And Study Butte on the west side of the park has a CG within a few miles of the west entrance to the park. Brett Wolfe

This post applies only to Safari and Foretravel coaches with the B.F Goodrich Torsilastic Suspension GREAT news. Navistar, in buying out Monaco/Safari, came across a warehouse with a number of original equipment B.F. Goodrich Torsilastic parts. Ralph Andrews who owns a Safari coach with torsilastic suspension and is very familiar with this suspension on the Safari products bought the whole lot. He owns Pioneer Metals: http://www.pioneermetalworks.com/ To determine if you need suspension parts: Look at your shackles-- they attach the torsilastic beam to the shim stack (two rubber joints). If the rubber in the shackles is bad, the metal will no longer be centered in the rubber and will need to be replaced. To determine if you need torsilastic springs, you need to measure your ride height AND count the number of shims in front/behind each wheel position. FOR FORETRAVEL U225 AND U240: From the flat area at the top of the wheel well behind each wheel position to the ground (loaded as you travel, flat surface, jacks stowed) should be 32-33". If below 32", BUT you have shims left in front/behind a wheel, removing one shim (1/4" thick) from in front and behind that wheel position RAISES the coach at that wheel position 1/4". Shim count in front/behind a wheel position MUST be the same, but each wheel position can be different. FOR SAFARI, contact Ralph Andrews for ride height specs for your coach. The concept is basically the same as for the Foretravels, though the measurement point will be different. If you are out of shims or close to out of shims and are at or under the minimum ride height spec, consider replacing the springs. If you need to replace the springs, I recommend 2 springs, 4 shackles, 2 installation kits. FOR FORETRAVEL OWNERS: If you are in the Texas area, contact the Foretravel service about having the parts installed. Foretravel will not be stocking the parts, but Mike Grimes (Parts Manager) said it would be possible, if you contact him, to arrange for the parts to be drop-shipped to Foretravel and then installed by them. For information on parts (he has a parts/price list he can e-mail to you), contact: Ralph Andrews: RAinSafari@aol.com. Ask him to send you a copy of the Torsilastic Parts List. I will re-post when he has the parts on his website. If you have questions on your Foretravel Torsilastic suspension, feel free (as many of you already do) to contact me: wolfe10@earthlink.net. This is the first Torsilastic parts I have heard about in 5+ years, and suspect that the few he has will go quickly. Brett Wolfe

Here are some counter points to running the main engine to recharge the battery/heat the coach: As you mention, it takes a LOT more fuel to run a 400+ CID engine than the small one in your generator. It is bad for any engine to run at idle, including high idle, as it allows moisture to build in the crankcase. The OIL, not just coolant needs to get hot enough to burn off the moisture. And this generally takes 20+ highway miles. Running the generator under load (50% or more) is better for it than light loads. Said another way, if it is cold out, turn on some electric heaters while running the generator to charge the batteries. If hot, turn on the A/C(s). The load of just the converter, charger or inverter/charger working to charge the battery is NOT enough load to make the generator happy. And in terms of heat produced per dollar or gallon of fuel, your propane heater is a LOT more efficient than your large engine. As you suggest, the decision is yours, but weighing all the factors leads the vast majority of us to running the generator, not the main engine while dry camping. Brett Wolfe

Bill, This phone number is a couple of years old, but may still be the correct one: Carrier 800 673-2431 You may also be able to determine whether you have heat strips by downloading the owners manuals for your particular unit: http://www.airv.carrier.com/cac/home/0,298...ETI1977,00.html Brett Wolfe

Several ways to go, but 44, 63,277, 90 works fine. Several RV parks just west of Del Rio. And there is winery in Del Rio that has been there over a 100 years is you are interested: http://www.valverdewinery.com/ And between Comstock and Langtry is a great state park: Seminole Canyon SP with electric and water and dump station-- just 2 miles off U.S. 90 but with a great view. There are tours down into the canyon (hiking, but not that rough) to see some several thousand year old Indian cave paintings. This is were we normally stop on our way to Big Bend. And don't miss the Judge Roy Beam visitors center (free state facility) in Langtry. And coming out of the park, Alpine has a reasonable park and is, along with Del Rio a good reprovision point. Brett Wolfe

A Google search of "truck and trailer maximum length by state pulled up this: http://www.towingworld.com/articles/TowingLaws.htm Brett Wolfe

Two issues -- length and weight. What is the total length when trailer is hooked to the coach? You need to verify that the tongue weight (remember, it is applied WAY behind the rear axle) does not overload the rear axle. Also, that the trailer does not exceed that towing capacity of your coach AND does not cause you to exceed the GCWR of your coach. Brett Wolfe

Agree, it sounds like a restriction or clog in the valve or line. If a clog, best answer is to fit a 5' piece of hose over the end of the drain hose and suck hard on it. If that doesn't work blow on the hose. Trying to pull the obstruction out is much better, as it will remove it. Forcing it back into the tank will leave it there to return another day. Brett Wolfe

I agree with Paul. The route is very doable in your coach IF you are comfortable with real mountain driving. None of the switchbacks are limiting with your size coach. But you WILL be using those Allison up/down arrows and your exhaust brake! Beautiful drive. Brett Wolfe

Pianodan, You might want to call Allison with your transmission model and serial number concerning the addition of an exhaust brake. Some Allison hydraulic/4 speed transmissions do not have lock up converters in all gears. That really effects exhaust braking performance and can overheat the transmission if a strong exhaust brake is applied in a gear with the torque converter unlocked down long grades. Allison technical help line 800 252 5283. Brett Wolfe

Your biggest electric draw unless you power appliances from your inverter is your furnace. Most draw close to 10 amps of 12 VDC while running. From many years of boating where you can't plug in we, run the generator morning and night when your electric demand for other needs is highest. The number of hours it needs to run is dependent on many things: 1. 12 VDC electric draw (expressed in amp) and the duration of that load (expressed in amp-hrs) 2. Size of battery bank (expressed in amp-hours. Two batteries can have a widely varying amp-hr capacity depending on WHAT 2 batteries they are. 3. Condition and state of charge of the batteries. Obivously, if fully charged, they can "power" you longer. But when dry camping, running a generator to charge at levels above about 85% charge is a waste of propane. 4. Kind and size of your battery charger or inverter/charger. Many coaches are fit with smart inverter/chargers that can charge at over 100 amps, while others have"dumb" converters that struggle to get 20 amps to the battery and at lower voltage. The other variable of course is how long you will be dry camping (particularly in terms of propane supply). Fill in some of these blanks for us and we may be able to give you a better idea. Brett Wolfe

Mike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Thanks for the EXCELLENT and nicely detailed post. Brett

At the top of this page, place your cursor over "Chapters/Areas. A menu will drop down. Click on "Area Chapters". You don't say what area of the country you are in, but search that AREA and INTERNATIONAL as well. International chapters are nation-wide. Or, for example to search International chapters go directly to: http://www.fmca.com/index.php?option=com_f...t&Itemid=98 I know nothing about this particular chapter, but just scrolling down in International Chapters, "Buses and Bikers" was near the top of the list of chapters. Brett Wolfe

Your first job if you are considering carrying a bike on a lift is to weight your axles, with the rear axle weight being the critical one. Putting all that additional weight 10' or so behind the rear axle will add well more than the actual weight to the rear axle and subtract weight from the front axle. That 10' is quite a leverage arm! Removing weight from the front axle will negatively impact coach handling. IF, again, IF you have adequate rear axle capacity to add the leveraged weight of the bike plus lift, there are lifts available. Another option many use is to trailer it in which case you will have to choose between bike and toad. Brett Wolfe

A good point. But be if temperatures are below freezing and the water systems are not winterized, be sure to verify that you have some means of heating the wet bay (basement) . Propane furnaces generally have a vent into the basement (again verify). The use of a safe electric heater in the coach will likely keep you warm, but NOT heat the basement. Brett

An excellent question by Tom. One often overlooked by those of us living in south Texas (or south Florida). As few times a year as it freezes hard enough to do harm (enough hours below freezing to affect water systems) you might just go over those very few times a year and turn the propane heater on to its lowest setting. Yes, you will need to verify with your coach maker that the propane heater heats the wet bay, but most do. Remember, the furnace (fan mostly) takes close to 10 amps of 12 VDC while running, so charge the batteries up before and after with generator or shore power. We have friends in Texas who just bring their coach over to their house and plug it in the few nights a year temperatures warrant it. An ALMOST true statement about temperaturet: "If an orange tree is happy a motorhome (or person) is happy" Brett

Modern coaches have 12 VDC parasitic loads that can run the batteries (both house and chassis) down -- easily within the three- to four-week time period. So in the absence of charge by shore power, running the generator or solar (if in the sun), you will want to have a battery disconnect on each battery bank. If you have the ability to charge the batteries once a week or so, no need for a disconnect (but do NOT start the coach's engine to do this -- in fact, if you can't drive at least 25 highway miles it is better to not start it at all). And top off the fuel tank at the end of each monthly trip if possible to reduce condensation. Since it will take you three or more months to burn a full tank, I would add a BIOCIDE (available at marine stores) to the diesel. Enjoy your new coach. Brett