wolfe10

Short answer is that the "weakest link" dictates capacity. It could be the hitch, frame or frame extension, rear axle, brakes, transmission, etc. Winnebago and Ford would both need to be consulted to verify capacity/determine what if anything can be modified to increase it to fit your needs. Again, WEAKEST LINK DICTATES. Brett Wolfe

Have you had your rear brakes inspected to VERIFY that no brake damage was done. Hard to believe they weren't severely overheated. Brett Wolfe

Here is another thread right here with some good advice on the same subject: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=445

Mark, A good write-up. I would differ on a couple of points. It is unlikely that you can rev the engine in neutral and see maximum air filter restriction. Max air flow is at high RPM (which you could do in neutral) but also with the turbo fully spooled up for long enough to draw maximum vacuum in the pre-turbo intake. In neutral, the turbo will START to spool up, but the engine will reach max RPM well before max boost is sustained long enough to give an accurate reading. BETTER, is to drive it (including one zero to 60 at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and THEN record new air filter restriction reading. As you point out, having a baseline reading is a REALLY GOOD IDEA. And remember, the air filter minder reads TOTAL system restriction-- could be the opening in the side of the coach is too small, hose from there to air filter has too many bends in it and is corrugated, the air filter itself is too small and hose from filter to turbo restrictive. So, with more restrictive systems one will not be able to experience a 15" WC increase in restriction from baseline without exceeding the engine manufacturer's max specification. Reality-- if you replace your air filter every 3 years, unless you live in a really dusty environment/drive dirt roads, you SHOULD be OK. And absolutely, moisture and time break down air filter elements-- they are made of paper. So replacing based on time IS highly recommended. And if your system does show restriction with a new filter, don't hesitate to improve it! Many chassis are shipped to coach makers with a long corrugated hose to go from filter to side of coach. In many cases the coach builder mounts the air intake on the side of the coach such that hose is WAY longer than it needs to be and cutting a foot or more from the hose gives better air flow. Costs nothing, but gives more air. And you can not get too much air to a diesel. Brett Wolfe

You might check with the manufacturer of your jacks in terms of their use in extreme cold weather. If HWH, I know they are in Iowa, so expect they KNOW what cold temps do to their jacks. Look forward to your getting down south where you can enjoy the coach. Brett Wolfe

Air leaking from the air suspension is quite normal over that time period and will likely cause no harm. Your chassis manual should address this, including how to store your coach for long periods of time. Do you have jacks or just air leveling? If jacks, consider leaving them deployed when storing it. We have done that since 1993 with our coach with HWH jacks-- no problems. Again, your coach owners manual should have a suggestion on this. And you do not need to drive the coach as frequently as once a week to keep the machinery up. In your reasonably dry climate, I would suspect once a month would be adequate. And hopefully, you will have one "nice day" a month to take your baby out to play. Now, if this is a bonding issue for YOU, I completely understand! If you are doing this weekly just to keep the batteries up, if you don't have access to shore power, might consider solar or some other means of keeping battery voltage up. If you are on shore power and have a newer high end charger or inverter-charger, read it's owners manual on programming it. Many DO allow you to tell your charger the ambient temperature range. That way it will automatically raise voltage to more suitable values for REALLY cold temps. And when you do start it for a drive, you are doing it right to run it long enough that the engine OIL (not just coolant) gets up to operating temperatures. We are in Texas with milder climates, so 30 miles is all I have to drive mine to get everything up to temps. If you filled up with diesel this summer/early fall, it may be SUMMER BLEND diesel. You will absolutely need to add the appropriate amount of additive to "reformulate" your fuel for winter blend (#1 diesel added to #2 diesel) SO YOUR FUEL DOESN'T GEL! Also, be sure to store with the diesel tank topped off to reduce condensation . Might read this topic here on the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=661&hl=. And if you are not going to burn that tank of diesel within 3 months I would also add a BIOCIDE to eliminate the changes of algae growth. Brett Wolfe

As Tom said, there is nothing you could have done to prevent damage from an improperly torqued or defective connecting rod bolt. I am surprised the engine made it that many miles before failure. Glad to hear you are about to get back on the road. Brett Wolfe

Wasn't me. Yes, I do have a Foretravel, and yes, we live off the Gulf Fwy (I-45), but my baby is happily resting in it's garage. And, I know it hasn't run away from home, because I was over there today replacing belts. And I KNOW I locked the garage! Yes, I know it wants to go play, but we are finishing repairs on our LAST ROOM damaged by Hurricane Ike. Brett Wolfe

John, There are several things working to shorten the life of your refrigerator. The more of them you address, the longer it will likely live. Cooling system rust through. In a humid climate, less condensation forms on the metal coils and therefore less rust if the unit is ON (coils stay well above the dew point). Rust in flue and burner is reduced for the same reason if the unit is ON. Insect nests in burner tube, flue and even the open areas of the cooling unit are discouraged if the unit is ON. There are no moving parts in an absorption refrigerator, so you are not "wearing anything out" by leaving it ON. Conclusion, particularly if stored in a humid climate is leave it ON. Our original Dometic installed by Foretravel in 1992 finally died (cooling unit leak) early this year after running continuously for over 16 years. If you live in and store it in the desert, or at a place where you don't want to leave it on, be sure to open the freezer and refrigerator doors and if for a long time, get some fine-mesh nylon screen and cover the roof and side vents to keep insects out. Do NOT leave the fine-mesh screen on when running, it really reduces air flow that is necessary for proper refrigerator function. Brett Wolfe

So, where are you headed. Tell us what kind of things ya'll (you will have to get used to "Southern Talk" if you want to enjoy the "weather an orange tree is happy with") like to do. Perhaps we can offer suggestions on places to visit. We will probably move the discussion to "Destinations" if we get many replies on "where to go," leaving the technical discussion here. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I will address a couple of your questions. Many DO winterize their coach and leave it winterized for the first day or so they are on the road headed for "Warm Country" leaving it winterized until they are south of the freezing temperatures. That way you KNOW you are OK. Just carry jugs of water to use for a day or two. If temps get REALLY cold, pour a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze in the holding tanks. With a little flexibility in your departure schedule, you can sure hit above freezing temps in 1.5-2 days of driving. Come on down to where the orange trees are happy (S Texas, Arizona or Florida). And yes, the propane furnace (more efficient) or heat pump (from generator) can be used while traveling to keep you warm. If your basement heat is from the propane furnace, that is fine too. If from other source, let us know what you have-- some others are also safe while on the road. But, if you rely on it in well-below freezing temperatures, make sure it heats ALL plumbing including dump valves. Getting the snow off the roof depends somewhat on what material covers the roof . You have to be a LOT more careful with rubber roofs than fiberglass. Best to start with a broom. If it is heavy snow, you may need one with stiff bristles. Brett Wolfe

The FMCA Forum makes it easy to search for any other members' TOPICS or POSTS. On the upper left of a member's post, scroll over their NAME (wolfe10 in my case). You will see a "down arrow" appear when you scroll over their name. CLICK on it. Scroll down to "Find Member's Topics" or, if you want to view all of a member's posts, to "Find Member's Posts." CLICK on it. That will bring up a list of that member's TOPICS or POSTS starting with the most recent first.

YES, if you don't have to plug your shore power cord into an outlet powered by the generator for the coach to operate on the generator, you have an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). Locate it by following the shore power cord from where it plugs into coach "downstream" toward the coach breaker box OR follow generator 120 VAC output and it will lead to the same location. Same for following the 120 VAC line from 120 VAC breaker box "upstream" toward generator/shore power. With all power off INCLUDING AN INVERTER, they are not difficult to replace if you are SAFE WORKING WITH 120 VAC CIRCUITS. Before replacement, with all power off, remove the lid and check for loose connections. Brett Wolfe

Mike, The FMCA Forum makes it easy to search for any other member's TOPICS or POSTS. On the upper left of a member's post, scroll over their NAME (wolfe 10 in my case). You will see a "down arrow" appear when you scroll over their name. CLICK on it. Scroll down to "Find Member's Topics" or if you want to view all of a member's posts to "Find Member's Posts". CLICK on it. That will bring up a list of that member's TOPICS or POSTS starting with the most recent at the top. Brett Wolfe

Cathe, Though, clearly there other causes of engine failure, this is one that does affect the Cummins ISL. This MAY be the issue with your engine: NHTSA Campaign Number: 07E033000 Vehicle/Equipment Make: CUMMINS Vehicle/Eqipment Model: ISL CM850 Model Year: n/a Mfg Campaign Number: Mfg Component Desc: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE:DIESEL Mfg Involved in Recall: CUMMINS, INC. Manufacture Dates: Type of Report: (E) Vehicle Potential # of Units Affected: 2,159 Date Owner Notified by Mfg: 07-20-07 Recall Initiated By: MFR Mfg Responsible for Recall: CUMMINS, INC. Report Recieved Date: 06-04-07 Record Creation Date: 06-08-07 Regulation Part Number: FMVSS Number: Defect Summary: CERTAIN ISL CUMMINS CM850 DIESEL ENGINES PRODUCED FOR RECREATIONAL VEHICLE APPLICATIONS BETWEEN OCTOBER 17, 2005, AND APRIL 18, 2006, WITH ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER RANGE FROM 46543077 TO 46603939. THE CONNECTING ROD CONTAINS A MACHINING DEFECT IN THE WRIST PIN BUSHING OF THE ROD THAT COULD CAUSE SEIZURE OF THE PISTON PIN. Consequence Summary: IF ALLOWED TO PROGRESS, THIS COULD LEAD TO ENGINE FAILURE WITH THE POSSIBILITY OF THE ROD RUPTURING THE BLOCK CAVITY. OIL AND DEBRIS ON THE ROADWAY COULD RESULT IN A VEHICLE CRASH. Corrective Summary: EACH VEHICLE MANUFACTURER WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF VEHICLES THAT CONTAIN THESE ENGINES ABOUT THIS DEFECT. CUMMINS WILL CONDUCT THE REMEDY CAMPAIGN AND PROVIDE QUARTERLY COMPLETION REPORTS BROKEN DOWN BY VEHICLE MANUFACTURER; HOWEVER THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS WILL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RECALL. VEHICLES WILL BE REPAIRED AT NO COST TO THE OWNER. THE RECALL BEGAN ON JULY 20, 2007. OWNERS CAN CONTACT EITHER THEIR VEHICLE MANUFACTURER OR CUMMINS CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE CENTER AT 1-800-343-7357.

IF this works, it is generally a short-lived fix. The coolant (water, ammonia and rust inhibitor) can crystallize when run out of level. This blocks the flow of "coolant" through the cooling unit causing the "my refrigerator is not cooling" condition. Turning the refrigerator upside down MAY dislodge the blockage, but it does not dissolve the crystals and it is very likely to "re-block" the cooling unit. Brett Wolfe

Mike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two different answers-- dependent on whether your engine coolant temperature is OK or if you are starting to overheat. If coolant temperature is not a problem, Caterpillar's recommendation in writing for max MPG is to allow the engine to lug down to peak torque RPM before downshifting. That is 1,440 RPM for your engine. And economy mode should be programmed to do just that-- shift down when you are heavy into the throttle and RPM drops to 1,440 (or a little above). Said another way, the Allison ECU is programmed to do what Caterpillar recommends. Obivously, if a few more miles an hour up that hill are important to you (AND you are willing to pay for the drop in fuel mileage) downshift, raise engine RPM and you will go a FEW MPH faster. For an excellent discussion of performance and MPG, read this Caterpillar Corp document (makes good reading irrespective of what brand engine you have-- physics is physics): Understanding Coach (RV) Performance If coolant temps start to rise, raising engine RPM (and backing out of the throttle a little) will lower engine temperatures. It takes XX HP to go up a hill at YY speed. And producing that HP produces a certain heat load. If the engine is turning over at 2,100 RPM instead of, say, 1500 RPM, the water pump and fan are turning a lot faster and can dissipate a lot more heat load. Also, be sure to read this thread to reduce overheating: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=288 Brett Wolfe

Bill, Weighing the risk of danger from traveling with propane on (with appliances designed to be used on the road like you have) VS the risk of food poisoning if you turn of the refrigerator when traveling, hands down, you are more at risk from food poisoning. Run them on propane, or if that bothers you, on an inverter (assuming you will not over-tax the alternator). Brett Wolfe

Patrick, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I am not familiar with the Tyron Bands-- in fact this is the first time I have heard of them. However, Michelin has an EXCELLENT video John Anderson helped them make on handling blowouts in a Diesel Pusher. For a free viewing, go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CseABfJL1FM ON EDIT: Thanks to jleamont, for posting the updated link-- changed since posted 5+ years ago. THIS IS A MUST-VIEW FOR ANYONE DRIVING A MOTORHOME. Brett Wolfe

Two ways to find out: Call your chassis maker (Freightliner, I suspect). Start at the filter you see in the very back of the coach. One line will come from the fuel tank (disappear into the frame rail forward). Trace the other line. It may go directly to lift pump/engine or through lift pump and then to SECONDARY FILTER. You can also raise the bed and look on the passenger's side of the engine for a secondary fuel filter. If you find it, see if there is a manual primer pump at the top of the secondary filter housing (knurl nut 1-2" in diameter). It is CRITICAL that you find out, as the filter you see will be VERY different if one vs two filter system. With one filter system, that filter you see HAS to be 2 micron. With a two filter system, the Primary filter (the one you see in the back) will be either 10 or 30 micron and the Secondary filter closer to the engine will be 2 micron.

Pete, I totally agree. On all diesel engine built before January 1, 2007, the crankcase vents to atmosphere. You want that moist, oily vapor to exit BEHIND the fan shroud (intake for cooling system). You don't have to run it all the way to the back of the coach to achieve this, but clearly need it extended to behind the fan shroud. I will repeat the caution I posted in the initial post on this subject: "And make sure the crankcase breather (1" ID open hose on most Caterpillar engines) is extended to behind the air intake (shroud) for the cooling system. Also verify that the extension ONLY goes downhill from the engine (no dip loop or sag) or you could do serious engine damage in cold weather. One of the byproducts of combustion is water vapor which can freeze if allowed to collect in the extension and if it blocked the whole tube BAD NEWS." Brett Wolfe

Robert, The critical question is did you just store it "out of level" or did you run it out of level. If it was run out of level, it is quite likely that the cooling unit has enough blockage that it (or refrigerator) will have to be replaced. "Out of level" specs are stated in your refrigerator owners manal and vary a little, but basically boil down to "if YOU as a human recognize an out of level condition walking in the interor, it is out of level enough to affect the refrigeator cooling unit" All absorption refrigerators have a warning against running out of level for this very reason. Factors to consider in making the decision between cooling system replacement and refrigerator replacement are AGE OF REFRIGERATOR and whether you can/will do the labor to change out the cooling unit or will be paying someone to do it. Brett Wolfe

Mark's article doesn't really detail what he means by "cover." He could be referring to storing under cover or a cover fitted over the RV. Here is what he says, "Keep it covered: Over time the roof and exterior of your motorhome begin to show signs of wear, caused by constant exposure to the elements. Ozone in the air and ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun start to take their toll, which is first evident by signs of fading paint. The ozone in the air also causes products like rubber and vinyl to dry out, crack and start to deteriorate. The UV rays from the sun make this aging process happen quicker. If possible, try to keep your RV covered when not using it, to help protect it from Mother Nature." I am also cautious about recommending RV covers, as the can do a lot of damage from chafe, particularly if stored in a windy area. The money spend on a cover and even factoring in minimum wage for your time in putting on the cover and taking it off each time you use it would go a long ways toward paying for a covered area under which to store the coach. I think all of us agree that storing it UNDER COVER is by far the best. Even if you spend extra money building a covered parking area or pay extra for covered storage, most of that investment will be returned by have a better looking coach AND one that has higher resale than one left out in the elements. Brett Wolfe

Pete, If you don't get a quick answer from someone here who has removed theirs, give Winnebago customer service a call. They WILL know. Brett Wolfe

I think the willingness of the State Truck Enforcement Division/DOT to weigh has less to do with the state than the individual you talk with and how it is presented. Asking the "head guy" if you can bring your coach to THEIR LOCATION at the beginning or end of a shift change to get individual wheel position weights usually gives positive results. Most are impressed that someone is interested in operating their coach safely. Brett Wolfe