wolfe10

Barry and Jan, Yes, the thermister controls the "on and off" of the cooling unit. The "coolant" goes through the freezer first, then to the refrigerator. NO separate controls for freezer/refrigerator. The most accurate way to measure temperature in the refrigerator is to put a thermometer in a glass of water. Much more accurate than an IR or thermometer just in air. And as you suggest, if you have a refrigerator model that does not allow you settings to control temperature, moving the thermister UP on the fin makes the refrigerator colder (and of course the freezer as well). If the same (too high) temperatures are experienced on both 120 VAC and on propane, that would suggest that you need to relocate the thermister higher on the fin. If this occurs only on one heat source or the other, you will need to troubleshoot that source. Brett Wolfe

Billy, Best advice is to call the manufacturer of your roof material and ask for THEIR advice on both product and technique for re-sealing around the vents. Not sure about calking around the A/C. A/C's are normally installed using a semi-crushable foam gasket, not calking. Brett Wolfe

You are likely to get a lot of "Opinions" as to which brand is best. Kind of like Ford vs Chevy. I am not aware of any "bad" tires among the majors. In the past, yes, but not today. But let's start at the beginning. What is the carrying capacity of your tires (molded into the sidewall) vs your actual weight. If you don't have an adequate safety reserve (i.e. the tire was designed to carry well more than your actual weight) you SHOULD consider up-sizing to a tire with greater load carrying capacity. Having tires with adequate carrying capacity (in access of your actual weight) not only gives you a safety margin, but you will be able to carry less PSI for a better ride. A curiosity question-- why are you replacing 2-3 year old tires? How many miles? Problems/uneven wear? Brett Wolfe

John, Certainly, you can add a coolant overflow tank. You will need one of fairly large capacity (truck or RV size as opposed to car size) because the large volume of your cooling system means you will have more flow in/out of the overflow reservoir as the coolant temperatures change. And it does not have to be mounted higher than the radiator. Expansion/contraction of coolant and/or any trapped air "move" the coolant into/out of the reservoir-- gravity NOT required. Sure, it is a little better to ADD gravity to the equation, but not necessary. BTW, this is a good idea. I always try to minimize the amount of air/oxygen in the cooling system. ONLY bad things happen when metal and oxygen meet. Brett Wolfe

At 11 years into our coach's life, all appliances were still original. I had replaced a hydraulic pump on the engine. Virtually all other work was in the form of Preventive Maintenance. Now at almost 17 years old, the refrigerator cooling unit went out in January so I replaced the refrigerator. I also replaced the A/C's with new, low profile more efficient ones, though they were still operating. We have remodelect the interior. Again, we have spent less IN TOTAL than one year's depreciation on a new unit. But, many are uncomfortable if a warranty does not cover them. So for them, an older unit may not fit THEIR needs. Would I buy an older unit, spending my last cent. NO WAY. Things will go wrong. But same for newer units. BTW, be sure to get someone knowledgeable in chassis and house systems to do a mechanical inspection on it BEFORE you buy. Things like tire age, SCA levels in coolant, ride height adjustment, air brakes, etc are not intuitive to most new coach owners. Arrange to be present when he goes over the coach. You should leave with lists: Things that need fixing right now. Things that should be done, but are not critical. Also both lists divided into "things I can do" and "things I will hire out". I do mechanical inspections on coaches, and really LIKE for a client to put on old clothes and start of the roof with me and 3-4 hours later end up crawling under the unit. And this is actually more beneficial to those who do NOT do their own work, as they really need an appreciation for what needs to be done so they can communicate that to their tech. Being able to see (and sometimes feel) something often makes it much easier to understand. Bring a notebook with you! There IS a learning curve we all went through-- some many decades ago-- some are still "in it". Brett Wolfe

That is a tough decision. It is exactly the one we faced when we bought our last coach in 1998. At the same price point we were considering new high-end gas, new entry level diesel and used high end diesel. We chose a 5 year old high end diesel (1993 Foretravel). We have put over 100,000 miles on it and are VERY happy with our decision. Have things failed-- of course. But most of the little things that go wrong are easily corrected by someone with even average mechanical skills. And let's face it, to replace ALL the appliances is still less than one year's depreciation on a new unit. Our coach is still extremely roadworthy (in fact we have friends with the same model who have over 300,000 on theirs). I look at the other coaches (the new ones) that were on our short list and sure wouldn't want an 11 year old entry level coach in place of ours! BUT (read that a BIG BUT) only YOU can make the decisions on what is important to YOU. Brett Wolfe

Here is an article I wrote for the Caterpillar RV Engine Owners Club Newsletter Cooling System 101 I just changed out my coolant to Caterpillar ELC and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience. To my knowledge no chassis/coach maker is using ELC—so all are “low silicate coolant for diesels†with included or added SCA. Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer’s instructions (usually every 3 years). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use (we check the SCA concentration in all coaches at Cat RV Club Rallies). When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to Caterpillar ELC and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech. Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain ****. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. I catch it in 2 Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so I do not even get them dirty. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free. Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes at regular temp. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the color is clear. At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to “Last rinseâ€. For older systems or for switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner such as Cat Fast Acting Cooling System Cleaner 4C4611. Follow directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8 to ¾†lines going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until what comes out is clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water. If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s). Last Rinse is with distilled water. At $.62/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water. Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. My cooling system is 18 gallons, so I added 9 gallons of Caterpillar ELC CONCENTRATE (119-5150) (plus one for overflow container). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture. This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter. Check belts while you are in there. And Caterpillar recommends changing the TWO thermostats (they are in one housing) every three years: Caterpillar Maintenance Recommendations Brett Wolfe

Yes, there are several terms all describing the same "device": CAC, Charge Air Cooler, After-Cooler and Inter-Cooler. Intake air exits the turbo under pressure with a LOT of added heat-- 300+ degrees F is not uncommon. The air then goes through this "device" which is basically an air to air radiator and exits a lot cooler-- usually within 10-20 degrees of ambient temperature. It then goes to the engine intake manifold. Because it is in FRONT of the radiator, dirt sucked up by your fan is deposited on the FRONT of the "device". This blocks air flow. To determine if this is a problem on your coach, access the top of the engine (from bedroom or closet). Shine a strong flashlight inside the fan shroud/between the fan blades. Insure that the PERIMETER of the "device" is as clean as the center (the blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter). The two most likely symptoms of a damaged turbo are significant loss of power (no boost) or burning oil (failed turbo seal). Concerning the fuel filter, I am a bit confused. You said, "The Inline Fuel Strainer, Cummins ISB02 Engine was replaced". I am not sure what Cummins filter you would use on your Caterpillar engine. Freightliner build both SINGLE fuel filter (to save a few bucks) and TWO fuel filter chassis. If you only have ONE fuel filter/water separator, per Caterpillar specs it must be have a 2 micron filter element. If you have (the much better) two filter arrangement, the PRIMARY filter/water seperator element can be 10 or 30 micron and the SECONDARY filter 2 micron. So, you need to determine if you have ONE or TWO fuel filters. Then you need to call or look up on-line Freightliner (or whoever's fuel filter they used) and ask the micron rating of the filter element(s) they installed. Since 2,10 and 30 micron filters all appear externally the same/install the same, it is CRITICAL that the correct part number is used. It wouldn't do your engine any good to have a parts guy incorrectly sell you a 30 micron filter when your engine's fuel system requires a 2! And, if you have the clear plastic bowl primary fuel filter, you can usually tell visually if you have a fuel contamination problem. If you see dirt or "black slimy stuff" in the primary filter, let us know and we can give further advice. Remember, there is NO average life for fuel filters. If all they see is clean fuel, they could go 10's of thousands of miles. But one tank of contaminated fuel can clog several sets of filters. BOTTOM LINE: CARRY 2 SETS OF FUEL FILTERS. You (or most anyone else) can change fuel filters, but you will likely travel a number of places that will not have the correct filters in stock. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What are your engine temperatures running? At 22,000 miles you certainly would need to have cleaned the AFTER-COOLER to reduce overheating. The other routine maintenance item other than oil and filter is the fuel filter(s). As far as stored engine codes, call the Caterpillar RV Hotline on Monday at 877 7773126. Have you engine serial number and the codes handy. They are VERY helpful. Let us know what year and chassis you have and we can be of more help-- the above ASSUMES you have a rear radiator coach. And cool down after running under load (highway or grades) you need to idle for 3-4 minutes. BUT, if you drove slowly into down, idled into the CG and let it run for a minute or so, you are fine. Damage by shutting down the engine after running under load with no idle time is overheating and coking of the oil in the turbo which can damage the turbo. A Caterpillar Corporation document that makes great reading for SETTING REASONABLE PERFORMANCE EXPECTATIONS IS: Understanding Coach (RV) Performance Starting on page 6 is an excellent discussion of HP demand for climbing a 6% grade. Helps set reasonable expectations. BTW, this is excellent reading irrespective of engine brand or even engine type. Brett Wolfe

Tim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully Tireman9 will chime in, but I'll get it started. Though it would be better to store tires with no load on them, for most, that is not practical. Many use the jacks to store with approximately 50% of the weight off the tires-- that is what we do. And it is best to isolate the tire from surfaces that are moist or chemically harsh. And indeed most any of the suggested materials you mentioned will work. Plastic, old mud flaps, or if indoors on concrete-- even plywood will work. Having tires inflated while stored to max PSI noted on the tire sidewall (as long as it doesn't exceed rim specs) helps insure better tire shape, even if there is some PSI loss with time and big drop in temperatures. Brett Wolfe

Click on "Wayne77590" and then on "View Member Profile". The photo may help you figure out who is who-- or maybe not.

Pat, Good questions. You are on the right track. There are several options that all work well. On-line bill review and on-line billpay; direct bill drafting; charging bills to your credit card. I have arranged for all of my utilities to bill directly to my credit card. At least with my utility companies there is no charge to do this -- but be sure to check. My credit card company sends me an e-mail when the statement is generated and I review all of my charges on-line. Just in case I cannot get on-line when the bill is due, I have set up my account to always pay my bill automatically, in full on the due date. Another option is to have bills automatically drafted against your checking account. This works particularly well if you have the option to "balance bill" your utilities. Balanced billing means you are billed the same amount every month for (generally) a one-year period. Balanced billing makes it easier to budget and determine how much you need in checking to cover basic bills each month. Then, at the end of the calendar year you pay the utility company any overage or they credit any amount due back to you against your next rolling average billing amount. I have found that insurance (at least State Farm) doesn't automatically bill homeowners or car insurance, but they are very willing to take a credit card over the phone to pay the bill in full. So when quicken reminds me that insurance is due, I call my agent and presto, she bills my credit card. Health insurance we have drafted each month directly from our checking account. Check with all of your monthly bills. You may be surprised how many (even small) towns now have websites that allow you to review your account on-line. Regarding mail forwarding. There are a number of very good mail forwarding services. FMCA has a very good one. But, if you only want mail forwarded for three months, check with your local post office. In my experience you have to arrange mail forwarding through the PO entirely in advance of your departure, so you have to know your forwarding addresses in advance, but they do now offer a mail forwarding service. FMCA is a lot more flexible and allows you to call in your address once you know where you are going to be for a week or so. Whatever combination you choose, get everything set up well in advance of your departure. It is much easier to relax and have a good time when you know bills are on autopilot. I've been doing this for over 10 years while we travel all over the world. Have fun, Dianne Wolfe

Steve, Narrowing down the choices within Class A coaches can indeed be almost overwhelming. Engines: A Caterpillar, Cummins or DD engine is BASICALLY the same in any coach. An exception that the Cummins ISL can be ordered with an engine compression brake or exhaust brake. And HP's within a given engine family can also vary, particularly in older model coaches (for example the Caterpillar 3126 was offered in 275, 300 and 330 HP versions). Transmissions: This is one of the few areas where there aren't a lot of variations except in extreme high HP rigs (like Caterpillar C15 and Cummins ISX). All others use Allison 6 speed transmissions, with the size/robustness of the transmission dictated by engine HP and torque. So 6 speed is NOT a term that will tell you what transmission you are looking at, as the Allison 1000, 2000, 3000 and 4000 are all 6 speeds. The 3000 is the normal transmission in 300-400 HP coaches, with the 4000 being used with larger engines. Suspensions: There are quite a lot of variations here, ranging all the way from leaf spring, 4 air bag and 8 air bag. Longer/heavier coaches often have tag axles to carry the extra weight. Floor plans: Here, you are on your own, as things important to you may be the opposite of what appeals to others-- same as in a stick home. Best advice is to SHOP. Make notes of what you like and don't like. Quality: Probably the most difficult to pin down, as most will show brand loyalty and almost always tell you THEIR choice is the BEST. My initial recommendation is to look at 10-15 year old examples from manufacturers on your short list. You WILL see a difference in quality, as solid wood cabinets hold up better than vinyl covered press board, drawers on ball bearing slides hold up better than those on cheap plastic slides, painted or gel-coated fiberglass holds up better than Filon, etc. As you narrow the field, you will get MUCH better help if you ask SPECIFIC questions (i.e. questions that require a FACTUAL answer) vs "opinions." Brett Wolfe

Same issues here. The chassis maker, not engine maker chooses the coolant. So you will need to check with Monaco for what brand they used if you need to top off what is in there. And, it will be a regular "low silicate for diesels coolant" that DOES require SCA testing/adding. But as stated above, if over 3 years old (from date of chassis manufacture) you real decision is whether to replace the old coolant with "low silicate for diesel coolant with SCA" or switch to a long life coolant that does not require testing and adding of SCA's. If you choose a long-life coolant, since you have a Caterpillar engine, I would go with Caterpillar ELC (Extended Life Coolant). Caterpillar also calls for (in your Caterpillar Owners Manual) for thermostat changes every three years. Coolant change time is a good time to do this. Your 3126 has two thermostats. If you need instructions on changing coolant, let us know. It IS time consuming, but very low tech. Brett Wolfe

JMM, We do have a smaller one that we use in the sail boat and motorhome. But, it is on the boat right now. So the 45 pint shares duty on the RV and home. The small one is much easier to stow while sailing that the big one. And, yes the small one would be easier to handle on the coach as well and has plenty of capacity. The 45 pint is certainly overkill for the motorhome, but since it also does duty in the house when we leave in the coach, the size is OK. And irrespective of size, the newer/better dehumidifiers have a humidity settings. So if set to 45% humidity, they will drop humidity to that level and then run very little unless outside air is introduced. The smaller ones take a little longer, the large ones a little less time, but no big deal either way. And by setting them on the kitchen sink (home and coach) they drain into the sink, so no buckets to empty. Brett Wolfe

Thought you don't have an engine brake, like the diesels, the rest of the driving/gear selection is much the same. You will choose a low enough gear that your speed stays in equilibrium on descent. I would suggest that you look up and make note of max allowable engine RPM (same advice for ANY engine). With the Ford V!0, it is happy at much higher RPM's than earlier engines. Basic formula-- if you have to use your service brakes to control speed, use the service brakes long enough to drop speed so you can downshift to a lower gear. If you start to slow down too much, shift up one gear. In really serious mountains, consider disconnecting the toad and driving separately. Taking that load off the engine both climbing and descending helps. Brett Wolfe

JJM, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We live in a similar climate-- south Texas a couple of miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Plenty of humidity and heat. We do this in both our stick home and RV when not in use: Use a 45 pint dehumidifier in RV and home. A/C OFF. We have found that we have far less of the "musty smell" than setting the A/C on a reasonably high temp. AND electrical consumption is lower. This works fine unless you want cool temps in the RV. If you only go in the RV occasionally, just turn off the dehumidifier and turn on the A/C. It will cool quickly, as no BTU's are wasted on condensing moisture. Brett Wolfe

Here is some information that I have pieced together after combing multiple sources. I will update this post as additional information becomes available and post updated date at the bottom. DISCLAIMER: Though I have spent a couple of hours researching this, I by no means hold myself out to be an expert on this. If you have one of the following chassis, it behooves you to follow up! Look forward to more information being posted on this subject! According to my information, there are THREE different suspensions under the R4R and RR4R chassis over the years. ONLY ONE IS AFFECTED. The recall affects Rear Suspension Trailing Arms ONLY ON THE R4R and RR4R CHASSIS with the "Monaco Gold" or sometimes referred to as "R-Way" suspension. It is an in-house copy of the Neway suspension. It does NOT include any suspension systems made by Neway or Reyco. The recalled R-Way arm goes UNDER the rear axle and is made of 3" square tubing. They are on either side in the rear. The rear air bag is bolted to the rear/back end of the trailing arm. The center of the trailing arm is bolted to the rear axle with a large u-bolt and plates and the front is bolted to the frame. The cracks happen on the upper or lower portion of the center of the trailing arm where the u-bolt holds it to the axle. You can identify the Reyco rear suspension (NOT AFFECTED BY THE RECALL) by the trailing arms that go over the axle rather than under. If you have the FOUR air bag suspension and your trailing arm goes OVER the AXLE= Reyco= no problem. If you have the FOUR air bag suspension and your trailing arm goes UNDER the AXLE= Neway OR R-Way= MAY, repeat MAY. BE SUBJECT TO THE RECALL/problem. If the trailing arm is 3" square tubing, it is R-Way and is part of the recall. The Neway was used basically from 2000 thru 2002 and those arms are identified by the fabricated weldments using multiple pieces of plate welded into a box assembly (Not tube) and is NOT part of the recall-- there are no problems with this design Monaco had a previous recall on the trailing arms because of bad welds. IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE ARMS REPLACED UNDER THIS EARLIER CAMPAIGN ARE STILL THE OLD DESIGN THAT ARE SUBJECT TO BREAKING-- I.E. THEY ARE THE 3" SQUARE TUBE DESIGN. They need to be upgraded just like the original trailing arms. The trailing arm allows the rear axle to move up and down using the air bag to cushion and limit the movement. A lot of stress is placed on the pivot point at the arm on the axle. The recall essentially includes any R4R or RR4R Monaco Roadmaster chassis produced after the 2002 model year. This change was made as a running change and it is possible that some very late 2002 models could be effected. Monaco Knight 2002 - 2004 Monaco Cayman 2002 - 2009 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 2002 - 2004 Holiday Rambler Neptune 2002 - 2009 Safari Cheetah 2002 - 2007 Safari Simba RD All Years Safari Zanzibar/Sahara 2002 -2005 Beaver Baron All Years NHSTA didn't think they could do anything because Monaco is out of business and the "new" Monaco appears to be under no legal obligation to accept responsibility. The arm's crack, allowing excessive rear suspension movement AND CAN BE DANGEROUS, as the arm holds the axle in place front to rear. Monaco doesn't supply the parts any more. The new supplier is: Source Manufacturing in Portland: 541-935-0308 . They say their arms are 3 to 4 times stronger than the original. (Click on photo to view full size) This photo shows the replacement arm from Source Manufacturing and the recalled R-Way arm that is the subject of the recall. (Click on photo to view full size) This photo shows a broken R-Way arm. You do NOT want that piece holding your rear axle in place! Brett Wolfe Updated 10/14/09

If you have a reasonably "tuned" ear, "Thumping" with a tire bat will tell you if tire pressure is WAY out of spec (at or below "Run Flat" PSI), so it is better than nothing, but does not substitute for checking PSI. I do it (along with the temp check below) every time we pull into a rest area, fuel stop, etc. Another accepted method of ROUGHLY checking PSI while driving is to check tire temperature-- either by lightly placing your hand on the sidewall or for those with all the high-tech toys, shooting with an IR gun. What you are looking for here is NOT absolute temperature, but a tire that is significantly hotter than other tires that SHOULD be the same. What this means is that you would expect some tires to be hotter than others-- for example a tire in the sun and you need to take that into consideration. Brett Wolfe

John, Two things you should check: 1. What is the temperature in the refrigerator? If below 33 degrees F, can you turn up the refrigerator thermostat (some models have this feature, others do not) and bring the temperature up to the 35-39 degree range? 2. Have you checked your door gaskets? Door gasket test: With a $1 (A $20 works even better) close the bill in the door repeatedly all around the perimeter of the refrigerator and freezer door. The bill should pull out with the same tension all around and require firm pressure, but not close to enough to tear the bill. If the door has settled so the gap is larger at the top, allowing lots of extra humid air in, it CAN be shimmed easily on most models. Certainly, the more humid the environment and the more frequently the refrigerator is opened, the more moisture WILL get in. And you CAN defrost it. Turn off the refrigerator. Wait an hour. Remove food that obstructs your access to the cooling fins. Use a hair dryer ON LOW and KEEPING it OUTSIDE the refrigerator itself. Aim the dryer at the fins. Also, be sure to defrost the freezer (same technique) when ice builds to 1/4". Ice is a GREAT insulator and you do not want the cooling unit insulated from the interior, as you DO want heat transfer out of the refrigerator and freezer. Brett Wolfe

NOTE: MOVED TO NEW TOPIC FROM "Refrigerator not working on propane" John at jwsties@aol.com is the author of this post: I have a 2004 Safari Cheetah with a Norcold four-door refrigerator. The cooling unit on the Norcold was replaced in July of this year before a long trip to West Coast. RV Masters in Houston, Texas, replaced the unit under extended warranty and the warranty (Prizm) would only authorize a refurbished unit, which I have heard has a pretty good track record. The installation, which included a new propane activator PC board, checked out okay in an overnight test. So,l we picked up the coach and headed west. For several days, the unit was cooling well, including freezer/ice maker operation. However, the fins at the back/top of the refrigerator are now frosting up at the end where the temp sensing thermocouple is attached. About six to eight fins are involved and will not defrost. My question is: Does this indicate that the new cooling unit may be defective? Could it be the thermocouple was left disconnected during the cooling unit changeout, etc.? We have rearranged the refrigerator contents away from that end of the coils, thinking maybe air circulation in the "box" has been compromised due to blocking. Any suggestions? John at jwsties@aol.com

John, I did move your post to a new topic: Refrigerator Fins Freezing Up, as you are more likely to get responses to your issue that way. Brett Wolfe

No, it doesn't make a measurable difference. But you can prove this yourself. Check with the coach on jacks, stow jacks, recheck. Brett Wolfe

Tireman9 Good post. I use the same "Chart plus 5 PSI formula" with 4 wheel position weights-- using the heavier wheel position on each axle to access the inflation chart. If all one has is axle weights, I add 10 PSI to compensate for left to right imbalance as well as safety reserve. Once a year I take my tire gauges- (boy, I feel shorted, I only have TWO double footed gauges) to a friend who has a large tire store with a shop air system with high quality calibrated built in gauge. I write deviation on a piece of tape and affix it to the gauge (i.e. gauge reading of 90= 94 actual). Brett Wolfe

Our Foretravel came with a central vac. It is substantially more powerful than most any regular vacuum one is likely to carry in a coach. Also, any dirt that the bag doesn't catch is exhausted outside the coach, not back into the interior. Hose storage room is about equal to that of a small/medium vacuum. Brett Wolfe