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A couple of companies you might contact: Motion Windows Hehr A company that repairs them: Sun Coast Designers Brett Wolfe

Roadmaster makes it easy to view the complete installation instructions on-line. Go to: Roadmaster Base Plate Applicaton Guide Go down to: "Roadmaster Tow Bar Mounting Brackets and Braking Systems " and enter your vehicle data. After your vehicle data is entered, at the bottom of the page will be the appropriate base plate. Click on that part number and you will get a pdf with the complete installation instructions. Example-- here is the one for our new Ford Focus: Roadmaster2008 Ford Focus base plate installation guide Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I guess I can lead off on this one, as we were one of the very first to upgrade to the PRXB PacBrake. I installed ours 6/30/04. It works exactly as advertised. The extra valve allows full back pressure to be achieved at much lower RPM than with a standard exhaust brake. I think their advertising says 30% stronger at lower RPM and it feels like every bit of that. Would not go back to a "regular" brake. Brett Wolfe

Travis, A TOTALLY separate issue is making sure your RV is in mechanically top condition, as mountain driving IS more stressful on machinery. On your gas coach: 1. Change brake fluid if over 2 years old in humid area or 3 in desert climate. Brake fluid is supposed to absorb moisture to keep brake components from rusting. As it does, fluid boiling point goes from just under 500 degrees F to 286 degrees F. BIG DIFFERENCE. 2. If the coach has not been used much and has floating caliper brakes, clean AND LUBE THE SLIDE PINS. These can rust in place and cause major problems. 3. Same as most vehicles-- air and fuel filter, spark plugs if they are due to be changed, etc. 4. Correct tire pressure. Determine correct PSI from YOUR ACTUAL WHEEL POSITION OR AXLE WEIGHTS. 5. Check suspension components for wear-- shocks, sway bar bushings, bell crank (P30, not Ford), etc. It is sure easier to discover and fix problems BEFORE you leave home than on the side of the road. Please ask questions so we can help you with the "Learning Curve". Brett Wolfe

Travis, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The same principals apply to ALL heavy vehicles-- gas, diesel, 18 wheeler, RV. When descending use a low enough gear (even first) such at your speed is in equilibrium-- you are not speeding up or slowing down. You do NOT want to use your brake pedal to control speed,-- use it ONLY to slow you down enough to "grab a lower gear". Your equilibrium speed will be faster than a loaded 18 wheeler and slower than an empty one== straight physics. Until you get the hang of how to control your vehicle's speed, play it conservative. Sure easier to up-shift a gear than to have to use those truck run-away lanes! Climbing, keep an eye on engine temperature. Run RPM's at or above peak TORQUE RPM for your engine but below peak HP RPM for reasonable performance without excessive fuel consumption. ENJOY YOUR TRIP. 100% of us had a "first trip in the mountains"! Brett Wolfe

Let me take a minute and perhaps summarize the responses here. As on many (OK MOST) "opinion" questions, people recommend what they use and are happy with-- its only natural. From responses here and on other sites, virtually all appear happy with their tow bar/base plate choices. Said another way, no bad apples out there. Since a large part of choosing base plates/tow bars is the quality of installation, working with someone in your area who you trust to do the installation is an important decision-making criteria. THEIR advice is as important to you as whether WE are happy with our choice. BTW, we use the Roadmaster Falcon All Terrain and are very pleased with it and the company behind it. 100,000 plus miles towing with this coach. Brett Wolfe

FMCA.com has Towing Guides -- FMCA Towing Guide Index -- for the last 10 years available TO MEMBERS or FMC magazine subscribers right here on this Web site. At the top of this page or the FMCA.com homepage, under the Motorhoming tab or the FMC magazine tab you will find the Towing link. The Towing Guides will bring you to articles covering vehicle towing for any of the last 10 years. Remco's Web site Remco Towing Guide is another good guide. Brett Wolfe

Again I want to thank Roger for the many he has helped with AutoPark problems and also explain why (as unusual as it sounds) contacting him is preferred over trying to post symptoms and hope for correct answers here. Because there are so many variations in the AutoPark system, both by year models and even by different GVWR packages in the same year model, what works for one may not be relevant for the very next person with a problem. This has lead to as much confusion as clarity on other forums where Roger has volunteered his help. That is why Roger went to the trouble to set up the special e-mail specifically so he could continue to volunteer his time and considerable diagnostic skills to helping others. So, please forgive the lack of symptom/diagnostics/repairs posted here. Brett Wolfe

Does anyone have experience with either Verizon or AT&T wireless broadband in Mexico and Canada? Mexico particularly. Thanks, Dianne Wolfe

Thanks, Roger. It is nice to have the "big guns" when diagnoising these very model-specific troubleshooting problems. And anyone else with an Chevy P30 AutoPark Issue, Roger is the "go to person". He has lead many an owner through the diagnostic tree on these systems. To contact Roger Haag: oldusedbear@oemys-perfdiagnosingormance.com Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Start by fully charging the batteries and then have them load tested. Most places that sell batteries will load test them for free. If you do need batteries, be sure to use deep cycle batteries for the house batteries, NOT marine or dual purpose batteries. If you need advice on choosing batteries, let us know. After making sure that the batteries are OK or replacing them, verify that your battery charging system is working properly. If a modern 4 stage converter, charger or inverter/charger, charge voltage should start around 14.2 VDC in BULK mode (batteries deeply discharged) and end up when batteries fully charged at around 13.2-13.5 VDC. You do not say whether you store with it plugged in (so converter or charger keeps up the batteries) or not. If not, you need to either disconnect the batteries while in storage or add solar panels to keep the batteries charged. You can also have the parasitic load evaluated. With all 12 VDC draws OFF, check for amp draw. Things like propane detectors, radio memories, etc all draw power and WILL discharge a battery, even a good battery with time. And storing a battery in a deeply discharged state REALLY speeds its demise. Brett Wolfe

Here is the solution to "out of level" hitch: Roadmaster Hitch Accessories

There are several materials that are all referred to as "rubber roofs": EDPM, TPO and Brite-tex are three common ones. Your safest bet is to determine what material you have and call its manufacturer for their current recommendation. Most recommend a non-petroleum-based soap such as Murphy's Oil Soap. Brett Wolfe

Montie, Welcome th the FMCA Forum. What brand and model jacks do you have? Is the leveling bubble on the jack control or is it a separately mounted bubble level? Brett Wolfe

OK, another sailor here-- as in SAILBOAT, not NAVY. Been sailing since the 1960's. Our favorite sailboat: Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37'. Current boat: 2004 Catalina 350. Miles sailed 25,000 Plus. Brett Wofle

The first thing I would do is to check your home state (California in your case) and determine what the penalty is for being a legal resident of that state and registering a vehicle in another state to avoid taxes. Issues like whether you store and use it in California would likely be important. Completely different if you are full-timing and use Montana as your home state (mailing address, driver' license, etc). Brett Wolfe

Many of you probably already have this site saves as a "favorite." It makes a very quick comparison of state to state prices at all Flying-J's in North America. Sure easy to determine in which state to stop and fill up. I use this one (gasoline prices) because it gives the price of propane as well as diesel, and each grade of gasoline. Flying J Prices-- Gas, Diesel and Propane Brett Wolfe

The problem could be with the engine or in the wiring to it. Do you have a wiring diagram of that part of the coach wiring, and does it test out? You know at least part of it does, as the switch does communicate with the Allison ECU and sounds like it activates at least some of the cylinders when engaged. Here is the number for the Cummins RV Hotline: 800 343-7357, 5 And on HIGH, it should be using all six cylinders (opening the exhaust valves on all six cylinders as the piston approaches TDC on the compression stroke). On LOW, it should be using three cylinders. Brett Wolfe

Servicing RV Roof Air Conditioners Air return filter(s) need to be cleaned/replaced frequently. Shine a flashlight up into the air return to determine if you have accumulated dirt on the filter(s). The filter area is small, so it is not unusual to need this serviced weekly with heavy use. If a ducted system, check for air tight connection to duct(s). Just snug the 4 bolts holding the roof-top unit to the inside unit. They are accessible by removing the inside cover. You want to minimally compress the foam roof gasket. Do NOT over-tighten. If water leaks in from the roof, try tightening a little��"if it still leaks, replace the roof to A/C gasket (available at any RV store). Other service items such as condenser, evaporator, fan motor and capacitors are serviced from the roof. To service these, turn A/C 120 VAC power OFF at 120 VAC breaker box or just unplug coach from shore power. Obviously determine that you can safely climb on the roof. Remove the A/C shroud to service these items. There are TWO sets of coils on the roof. The one you see is the CONDENSER and can be easily cleaned with water or compressed air. Do not get water into the electrical area. The other coil, the EVAPORATOR, is inside the evaporator housing. Particularly if you get that moldy, cave-like smell when first starting the A/C you need to clean it. This is likely a once a year issue in humid climates where the evaporator stays wet much of the time. Use a professional evaporator cleaner available at any HVAC store and a tooth brush (NEVER your own). And while you are on the roof (WITH POWER OFF), check all electrical connections and also that the electrical capacitors are not deformed or leaking. Do not touch the terminals on the capacitors, as they do retain a charge even with power off. Some fan motors have oil ports on each end of the fan motor, some have sealed bearings. If oil ports, add 3 (not more) drops of light machine oil/sewing machine oil to each port. Also, insure that the fan motor is tight on its mounts. Lastly, check and remove mud dabber nests that can throw fans off balance or short out electrical connections. Brett Wolfe

Sounds like a good setup. I am sure you have determined that the Malibu at 3,415 pounds (FMCA 2009 Towing Guide) doesn't exceed the towing capacity of your coach. The only advice (as with the vast majority of all hitches) is DON'T BACK UP with the toad attached. Have a great trip. Brett Wolfe

Roger, We have a "Resident Expert" on the P30 AutoPark. His name is Roger Haag and over the years he has tirelessly helped dozens troubleshoot and fix this system. You might shoot him an e-mail with your year model, GVWR and symptoms: oldusedbear@oemys-performance.com Brett Wolfe

Yes, a magnetic compass must be "swung" to insure any accuracy at all when installed in a metal or metal frame vehicle. BUT, once swung, it should remain accurate as long as it is in that location and no heavy ferrous metal or magnet is placed near it. I just did this in our motorhome after re-covering the dash which required that I remove the compass. Find a parking lot big enough and flat enough that you can easily drive in a circle. Park facing due north. Put objects (I just use my leveling boards) next to driver's side front and rear tires to serve as markers. Drive around so that you face south/roughly south using the locator objects as a guide. If the compass is perfectly adjusted, it will now show you headed at 180 degrees. If it is not, use the N-S compensating screw to TAKE AWAY 1/2 OF THE ERROR. So, if, instead of showing 180 degrees, it shows 170 degrees, adjust to 175 degrees. Move coach and locator objects a little to bring compass to 180 degrees. Drive around using the locator objects and insure you are headed at 0 degrees. If not, again take away 1/2 the error. Repeat with E-W headings. This will not get you close enough for ocean navigation, but will work fine for how we use a compass. Brett Wolfe

There are three different "auxiliary" braking systems used on different diesel engines.: Exhaust Brakes, Engine Compression Brakes and Variable Geometry Turbo Brakes. Exhaust brake: literally a "flap" which closes off exhaust flow just downstream of the turbo in the exhaust system. This causes back pressure (55 PSI on ours) which generates braking power. With the Allison transmission, the exhaust brake is usually tied with downshifting of the transmission to the "pre-selected" gear (usually 2nd or 4th). Think of it as a potato stuffed in the tailpipe. Engine Compression Brake (aka Jake brake): The exhaust valves are opened as the pistons reach TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke after the engine has done the "work" of compressing about 18 volumes of intake air to 1 volume. If the exhaust were not let to escape by the compression brake's opening, the exhaust valves (i.e. coasting with brake off), the "compressed air" would mostly be returned as power to the engine, forcing the piston back down. With the Jake brake on, the engine works to compress air in the cylinder, and then the air is let out. This generates quite a lot more braking force than an exhaust brake. The smallest engines to offer an engine compression brake are the Caterpillar C9 and Cummins ISL. Variable Geometry Turbo: The vanes reverse or aperture closes (depends on engine manufacturer) to create back pressure with much the same effect as an exhaust brake. Brett Wolfe

Calibrating the engine oil dipstick We continue to see concerns about oil "consumption" and oil on radiators and toads on many RV Web sites. It seems to be universal across all brands of diesel engines. THE NUMBER ONE CAUSE IS AN OVERFILLED CRANKCASE. CALIBRATING THE ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK TO ACHIEVE THE CORRECT OIL LEVEL IN THE PAN "FIXES" OVER 90% OF THESE PROBLEMS. Step one if you "think" your DP has an oil consumption problem or you are seeing oil mist on your toad (or you just want to verify that yours is correct): CALIBRATE THE DIPSTICK. Since the same engines/dip sticks are used in many different applications with different angles of installation, do not ASSUME that the dip stick is correctly marked. This applies to all age (including brand new) motorhomes and boats with every brand of engine. Calibration costs $0. At the next oil change, drain oil, remove old filter (as usual). Then install the drain plug and new oil filter and add the engine's correct oil capacity LESS THE NUMBER OF QUARTS you want between the "add" and "full" marks (let's say 2 quarts). So, for example, for a Caterpillar C7 with 19 quart capacity you would add 17 quarts. Run the engine a few minutes, shut off and wait until oil has descended into the pan (at least 30 minutes and an hour is safer). Pull the dip stick and use a file or dremel tool to mark the oil level "add." Add the remaining two quarts, let the oil settle in the pan, pull the dipstick and mark this the "full" mark. In many/most cases, you will find that your engine "throws out" the access oil and then "consumption" settles down to next to nothing. Put in the correct amount and your "consumption" issues may go away. Also, when checking the oil level with the dipstick it is safest to do it in the morning after the oil has had all night to flow back to the pan. Brett Wolfe

Coach Ride Height Safety Caution: Never go under a coach without adequate safety stands. Importance of correct ride height: If ride height is too low, the suspension can bottom out on bumps, giving a harsh ride and shocks can be crushed on compression. If ride height is set too high shocks can pull apart on extension and the center of mass is raised. And either too high or too low can destroy the U joints and drive shaft, particularly on a Diesel Pusher. Even 1 inch out of spec on a DP driveshaft significantly alters driveline angles. It will also transfer a huge amount of weight from side to side. How many of your really strong friends would it take to lift the left rear corner of your coach! Ride height is critical to ride, handling and to component longevity. All chassis makers have specifications for the correct ride height, leaf spring, Torsilastic and air suspensions. A proper wheel alignment can not be done before correcting ride height. Ride height specs are generally from a given point on the axle to a given point on the chassis rail. Leaf Spring Suspension: Out-of-spec ride height on a leaf spring suspension can be caused by worn springs, shackles or out of spec weight on a corner. It can be corrected by replacing the springs, adding a spacer shim, adding a leaf or moving weight. Truck suspension shops make these repairs routinely. Torsilastic Suspension: On Torsilastic suspensions found on some Foretravel and some Safari products, ride height is raised by removing spacer shims. Each shim is ¼†thick and removing one from in front of and behind a wheel position raises that wheel position ¼â€. Loosen, but do NOT remove the long bolts securing the shims. The shims are slotted and are easily removed. Torque nuts on the long thru-shim bolts to 115 ft-lbs. Air suspension: Most coaches with air suspensions use 3 ride height valves: two on one axle and one on the other. These valves can leak and/or the light-duty rods used to attach them to the axle can be easily bent by road debris. Check and adjust ride height at least twice a year or anytime you run over road debris, notice a change in ride height, a change in ride quality, the coach is too low for the jacks to deploy properly, steps are closer to the ground, etc. According to Walter Cannon of RVSEF (Recreation Vehicle Safety Education Foundation) (http://www.rvsafety.org/), who performs all wheel position RV weighings around the country, incorrect ride height has led to some of the most severe wheel position overloading they have recorded. For the schedule and location of coach weighings in your area, go to RVSEF Schedule. Brett Wolfe