RVerOnTheMove

2 reports from long haul trucking which I dismiss as not being applicable to RVer who usually have to replace tires due to age and not mileage. The middle report about car tires is very interesting but again likely applies more to the age of the tires and not tread wear or safety or fuel mileage. We will just have to agree to disagree. I will even agree with you that filling with N2 might have some advantage over air since it is guaranteed to be dryer than just about any other choice. Armed with that information I don't believe the costs to setup my 8 tires and the limited sources available to refill as necessary make N2 a practical option.

Something is way wrong. Not know anything about the inverter or how it is set would leave us unable to answer that question but clearly, assuming your inverter is also a charger, you do need to start your investigation there. With the coach plugged in you need to check the batteries with a multi-meter and confirm that there is 13+V DC being provided to the batteries. If not you will need to start back at the inverter/charger to find out why it's not charging.

Is synthetic oil better than regular? Not necessarily. Is bottled water better than tap? Not necessarily. Is Starbucks better than Folgers? A matter of choice, not performance. The reality is that "in an RV" (the reason we are all here) you will not notice a bit of difference between N2 air and atmospheric DRY air in the tires any more than your engine will be able to tell the difference between regular or synthetic oils.

N2TYRZ...i.e. Nitrogen Tires First, welcome to the forum! We are always glad to have differing opinions jump into the fray. Now, since air is already 78% N2, could you provide us with some kind of scientific evidence that N2 actually provides any major benefits compared to "dry" atmospheric air other than not having to put some air in your tires once or twice a year? The "he said, she said" stuff does not count.

You may have gotten some information that you did not clearly understand. Brett gave you the exact correct information. You CANNOT get 50 amp service by plugging into a 20 and a 30 amp circuit. 50 amp service give you 50 amps on each leg of your coaches electrical circuits or 100 amps. Even if you could get that combiners to work (and it's unlikely that you will) you would only have a total of 50 amps available with 20 amp being available on one leg and 30 amps available on the other (not 40 amps on any leg). What can work very well if is you have 2 - 30 amp circuits to plug that adapter into. In this case there is no GFCI involved and you would have 30 amps available on each leg or a total of 60 amps.

No. Just one, don't use one. It's just fine. Your neighbor may or may not like your fumes, but that's not your fault!

There's nothing special about 30 amp service, you just have less power available for use. 50 amp service actually provides 50 amp on 2 separate legs or a total of 100 amps. With 30 amp service you will be sharing 30 amps over all of your connections. First, you will need a 50 amp to 30 amp "dog leg" adapter so you can plug in your coach into a 30 amp plug. Other than that you just have to be very aware of what is on and how much power you are using. Generally, that means you can only run one A/C unit at a time. You will want to ensure your elec. water heater is off and that you be careful about running the A/C, a coffee maker and a hair dryer all at the same time. It's a bit of a learning curve as there are usually small draws you never paid attention to in the past (the battery charger, etc.) but you will catch on pretty quickly. Edit: Brett and I just love posting at the exact same time!

No 12R 22.5 tires included in the pricing? What about us old guys?

A bit of clarification on where the wobble orignates is important. Is it only the blades, the mount, the motor? What is actually moving and does it appear to be doing the same thing at idle as well as the higher RPM's?

Local RV tech is an idiot. What liability? Can't work on your coach for fear of damaging it? What kind of tech is he?

Assuming you have 134A freon you can buy a charge kit at the local auto parts store and there is only one usable port on the A/C compressor that would allow this kind of connection. You don't open anything, just connect the nozzle to the port, run the engine, turn the A/C on high and follow the charging directions. If there is already a leak you are just pushing the freon in one side and it will come back out the other. The only thing gained is a lighter wallet.

You say it's not blowing "cold, cold air" so I assume it is cooling. The best you can expect is the air blowing out will be about 20 degrees cooler than the return air. If you happen to be in one of the areas around the Country where it's 100+ degrees out your 2 airs may simply not be capable keeping up.

No need for hostility Corey. You asked a question. You might not like or agree with the answers. There's no reason to belittle someone just because they have an opinion of their own.

If fuel is getting to the genny but not getting into the carburetor I would be looking for some kind of a fuel filter and see if that is blocked or something else between the inlet and outlet that is preventing fuel flow.

Everyone is likely to have an opinion. My opinion is that if silicone caulk was better (especially considering it's cheaper) every RV manufacturer would be using it. I think Dicor is the right path to take but what do I know, I have only installed a couple thousand satellite antennas using this product. Many people use silicone successfully so I doubt you would have any issues with this product but one thing you have to be aware of is that silicone and lap sealants are not compatible AT ALL. If there is lap sealant there now you will have to clean, clean, clean the surface until there is no residual. These 2 products will not stick to each other!

You bet! Lots and lots of us!

What fuel are you using, gas, diesel or propane?

When we were there is was walled, gated and had an armed guard at the gate. While Bourbon street was about 2 blocks away they recommended that we not walk as it was not safe. It is a great location and a nice, relatively new park. It's just not the best part of town. We stayed there a number of years ago but I have not heard that anything has changed.

We just switched our service to the Verizon Share Everything plan. It's simple to calculate your costs and pick your level of data service. Unlimited voice, unlimited text, data levels from 1GB to 10 GB and you can add 2GB at any time in the month for $10. The mobile Hotspot, which used to be an extra $20/month, is now included. Smart phone $40/month Regular phone $30/month Data device $20/month Tablet $10/month Up to 10 devices on one account with shared data. I now have 2 smart phones and 1 air card plus signed up for 8GB/month of data. In doing so, I could dump Millenicom as I did not need the full 20GB anyway (saving $70/month). The only odd part of the data pricing is that 1GB is $50/month and 2GB is $60/month. From there it is just $10 extra for every additional 2GB. The plan looks to be a good fit for both Janet and me. 2 smartphones $80 1 data card $20 8GB service $90 Total $190/month plus taxes.

Look in all of your bays including the ceilings of the bays as some manufacturers like to hang them out of the way.

You really can't do anything until you have your RV weighed. You need to get a tire weight for each individual tire (or pair) and then go to the tire manufacturers website to see what the proper inflation level is. In most cases it will not be be sidewall pressure but it could be. If you use a professional weighing service such as RVSEF, they will give you the proper inflation specs for your vehicle.

Get yourself up to Cripple Creek and that should solve your heat problems. Looks like somewhere around 80 for the highs this week. Love that town!

Please refer to the link in my post above. I believe that only the 4X4 is listed as towable but don't take my word on that.

We stayed at the Grand Tetons RV Park (KOA). Good central location but not necessarily close to anything.

Yes. That assumes the LED's installed are dimable. If they are not, no dimmer will work.