wayne77590

Also see my previous post. On the motor end there will be a slide lever. On my particular electric Power Gear/Kwikee motor the brake slide clockwise to lock the brake, but check your MFG's manual. You could also call Lippert as they have bought out PowerGear/Kwikee and have been receptive to my phone calls. My opinion is that the motor brake lever is not firmly set causing that one side of the slide to drift out. I also have a "manual" override. After checking that the brake(s) are correct, there is a small pin hole in my slide controller. With a tooth pick or paper clip I push the button inside the hole for 6 seconds and the light will start blinking. I can use the in and out button to bring in each side NEVER exceeding two inches difference. They can be pressed simultaneously to bring in both sides at the same time - sort of defeats the purpose of automation. In you case, and if you have that "manual" override, push one or the other of the in/out button until both ends are seated. That is supposed to sync the motors. If the drifting out is still there it may be time to replace the motor - or let the repair facilities take a crack at it. Rots of ruck!

Above post did not post the same way it looked when I pasted it, so here is the link. Tire Comparison Chart

275/80-22.5 295/75-22.5 Difference Diameter inches (mm) 39.82 (1011.5) 39.92 (1014) 0.1 (2.5) 0.2% Width inches (mm) 10.83 (275) 11.61 (295) 0.79 (20) 7.3% Circum. inches (mm) 125.11 (3177.72) 125.42 (3185.57) 0.31 (7.85) 0.2% Sidewall Height inches (mm) 8.66 (220) 8.71 (221.25) 0.05 (1.25) 0.6% Revolutions per mile (km) 506.45 (314.69) 505.2 (313.91) -1.25 (-0.78) -0.2% Speedometer Difference Speedo Reading Actual Speed 20 mph (32.19 km/h) 20.05 mph (32.27 km/h) 25 mph (40.23 km/h) 25.06 mph (40.33 km/h) 30 mph (48.28 km/h) 30.07 mph (48.4 km/h) 35 mph (56.33 km/h) 35.09 mph (56.47 km/h) 40 mph (64.37 km/h) 40.1 mph (64.53 km/h) 45 mph (72.42 km/h) 45.11 mph (72.6 km/h) 50 mph (80.47 km/h) 50.12 mph (80.67 km/h) 55 mph (88.51 km/h) 55.14 mph (88.73 km/h) 60 mph (96.56 km/h) 60.15 mph (96.8 km/h) 65 mph (104.61 km/h) 65.16 mph (104.87 km/h)

Herman, my brother lives in a S&B that has very low pressure. He has a pump for the house that when they are going to take a shower he just turns it on and it increases the pressure. Kind of cumbersome but it is very old technology. I'll bet they have the same thing in miniature form now. Flimsy panel no problem. 1/2 or bigger angle iron, one with the holes in it bent at top and bottom to anchor to floor of bay and overhead of bay. Another, if space is there, would be a 2 x 4 (or 1 x 4) with the same type of hurricane clips used in houses to anchor it top and bottom. Just thinking out loud.

You are welcome. I don't mess with mine, just set it to 50 and leave it there. If the pressure at the faucet is low then fooling with the setting is not going to help. However, to much pressure and it will do the job of keeping it at 50 psi. PEX is rated at 80 psi @ 200F, 100 PSI @ 160 and 160 PSI at 73F. It is not so much the PEX I worry about bursting but the compression fittings and how the old world craftsman put them on. I don't have a lot of room to mount mine in the bay and sometimes the PVC Piping that the CG's use out of the ground are flimsy at best. I stopped putting it directly to the faucet and instead use a 3 foot water hose from the faucet and just lay it on the ground. I'm going to clean out the compartment and look for a better place to hang it. I also went to Lowes and picked up a gauge and 3/4 inch fitting. I cam hook this up to the faucet and get a reading for comparison. Small footprint. I wonder sometimes about the longevity of the PEX. Here at the S&B I had a riser to the toilet just split. Had a mess of water on the floor. My golfing plumber buddy of the day said that those should be replaced about every 5 years and to use the reinforced ones. On the days I'm real paranoid in the MH I'll turn the water off at the spigot when we go anywhere. Only done it a few times - darn.

Is it difficult to cut up the bowling ball, or do you just use the smaller size billiard balls? (Sorry, couldn't resist!)

Uh huh!

Don't miss the Diorama in Gettysburg. It used to be housed at Artillery Ridge Campground but it is now downtown. If you stay at Artillery Ridge you get a free pass other wise it's $10. (Well, it was the last time we were there. Been 4 times. Love the history.) Do the Diorama before you take any tours.

Have you thought of a trade-in.....nah, never mind. Don't even mention it.

I think that it differs between localities. Here in the Houston area gross weight capacity of 1 ton or more is not allowed and towing a trailer (TOAD) is not allowed. When I'm in my MH I'm disqualified on both counts. Anyone from Atlanta area?

Oh gosh! I have been so remiss in replying to this forum. Okay, I'm not going to start a long dissertation now - it seems there are a lot of varying thoughts about the pro and con's between 5th wheel RV'ing and MH's. There have been some very good "arguments" regarding both. it just comes down to a matter of individual choice. The subject is definitely one that could be discussed around a campfire grill one evening. One more thought; DW's idea of roughing it is not having a Walmart nearby. (Nope, we don't Wally-camp, she just likes her shopping.)

I love 'taters! when is lunch. Question: Do those showering take what is called a "navy" shower. That is, turn the water on and wet down. Turn water off and lather up. Turn water on and rinse off. I remember during my military days, and especially in Vietnam, I had to wash out of a steel helmet. Not a heck of a lot of water can be used by that method. It was stated and understood that it was not as much to get the smell off as it was to get the dirt off, but if done right the smell goes away also. In an RV, the every once in a while to the facility at the campground can be quite refreshing.

That may be true. Maybe someone else can elaborate on that issue. In any case it is good to hear the bad and the good about a company. It at least gives one the ability to make a decision of choice. Thanks for your post.

If everyone is taking the loop doesn't that open up the straight thru shot!

Carl, just add one more thing, a full size picture of yourself standing behind a grill. If the face doesn't kill them the size will. (Can't wait to meet you someday.)

I'm not Bill, but if you need anything holler, 'cause I'm only 14 or so miles from you.

Which Bill?

ROFL!

Well Carl, most of the Texas critters are to big to crawl into the hole anyhow. But that aside, how did you like my suggestions.

Consider all the aspects of a security system. Then consider the reaction time if you cell phone goes off, police are notified, etc., and by the time that is done the thieves have broken in, stole some valuables, did some damage and have departed. Personally, security systems keep the honest person out, just like locks on doors. However, what are thieves fears. Bright lights and loud sounds. A good lighting system and a loud siren or klaxon is a big deterrent. Once the lights come on and a loud sound is heard they typically vacate the area and look for easier pickings. Now just figure out how the light and sound comes on. Is it the opening of a door, window, compartment, etc., and how is it enabled or disabled. Besides the 80 lb Husky, here at the S&B we have an alarm system. I just received a letter from the insurance company to show a certificate that indicates that all the windows and doors have sensors on them. What! Why would I go through all that trouble. I have sensors in a few places, including one for glass breakage. So those windows that do not have sensors on them will set off the glass breakage sensor should they be busted. Okay, let's look at it a different way. Someone pries the window open, busting the poor locking system designed to keep honest people out, and enter the home. The motion detector will go off. Trust me, if any of the sensors are activated there is a loud piercing sound letting anyone know the alarm has been activated, plus a phone call to the alarm company. I have another device that if motion is detected it notifies my cell phone also. I primarily have it to laugh at the dog cause I can talk through it also. Drives her crazy and keeps her alert. Security alarms are overrated in my opinion, and a way for distributors and alarm companies to make a fortune. So think it through before investing a lot of money. Consider a different campground if you don't feel safe. JMHO p.s., speaking of compartments, how many items are stored in there that any thief could re-sell at a flea market. Not a lot of valuables until you add it all together. Just a simple screwdriver will gain access to any compartment.

Regarding the critter guard, I'm not familiar with it. However, just thinking it is a device that fits around the hose to keep critters from coming up when you are camping and an idea pops in. What is the requirement of a critter guard? Could it be a piece of heavy rubber that is placed around the hose covering the hole? What about a piece of thin sheet metal that has a hole just the size of the hole, slit to the middle of the hole and slipped around the hose. Just thinking out loud. (One of my biggest problems.)

They make 8 and 10 inch deck plates. Would enlarging to one of those sizes solve the problem?

Glad you got to see the River Walk. Don't forget the next time in the area of San Antonio to see all the missions (San Antonio Missions National Park Service). Since you took in The Alamo, you have seen one.

Rochel, Another reason to carry vaccination papers, and sometime medical records, is in case there is a need to go to a veterinarian. They will ask about shots and sometimes require proof, especially the military veterinarians. Regarding medical records, if you pup has an ailment that is being treated and maybe recurring, the new vet will want to know what prior procedures/medications have been used.

Joe, so sorry I missed replying to this post. I don't have my MH handy to check but it was a Watts regulator. The first one I went to Lowes and purchased the parts separately and put it together. I used it up until just a few months ago. It is big and bulky. I found one that is all contained in one including the gauge for around $80, about the same as the one I put together and the new one is a much smaller foot print. I have it set to 50 psi and so far do good. The new one's Manufacturer's Number is: A01-1116VP A01-1117VP or one that looks very similar to that . (Google is your friend) mwilson, it may be that the filter is good but the in line regulator is set wrong or bad. If by in-line regulator you mean the little 4" like this one "regulator". To me that is just a "water restriction" device and is supposedly set for 40 psi. The accuracy of that type "regulator" has been questioned by many as to whether it is 40, 30, 25 or 50 psi.