wayne77590

We were headed to the East Cost and the ride from P'Cola to Carrebelle then to Mayport was a nice break in driving times and the trip down the Gulf Coast Highway was a nice scenery break.

The only problem I can see is the connectivity. Sometimes you will have great/good connectivity and other times it could be marginal. Prices vary on ISP's when on the road. Welcome and good luck.

Also check the teeth on the plate. If there are broken teeth it would stop the step. The steps stop by an electronic current limiter switch. You can stop it with your foot. Any debris at all that limits the travel will stop the step.

Just a dumb question, isn't there is a fuse in the battery compartment, and could it be blown?

Try to find an inexpensive campground that does not have a limit on dogs. Some do. For the $25-35 a night should not break the bank. As stated KOA's are good around holiday times but it is going to depend on the tourist attractions and outside activities like boating, swimming, etc. The nice thing about KOA is you can go online and pick a KOA in the area you want to travel to and see if they have opening, then book it on line if it is what you want. We travel extensively during the summer months to get out of the Texas heat. A few times we had to call several campgrounds along our route before we could find a place. I now try to make reservations ahead of time if I know I'll be on the road. The problem you will run into is that memorial day is a Monday so many of the campgrounds will be booked Fri-through Sun and the weekenders will depart on Monday. If you only need one night, start calling - or - Wally World, Lowes, Home Depot, or even some churches will let you stay in their parking lot if it does not interfere with their services.

As you can see by my post it was just the opposite. I sure wouldn't want to save up $26k for repairs in the 7 years I have owned this MH. I haven't done the math but I don't think I paid that much into their coffers. I guess that is why they call it "insurance." it's only needed when it is needed and I hope no one every needs it. By the way: Same for the Extended Service Plan. Mine has paid for itself time and time again. That's the reason the MH has a name: "Citrus."

We went with Progressive and they have been great on claims. Hail damage caused damage and the roof to be replaced on the MH for $19k. No questions asked other than what happened and everything was paid. The prior 5th wheel had the awning shredded by 45 mph cross wind. Progressive replaced with no questions. I'm happy with Progressive. I recently called and touched base with them regarding a big rock kicked up by a passer-by. Just let them know when I'm ready to have it replaced.

I would have the same concern Bill. I think those systems have a cutoff point where the good tire will not lose any ore air then the set point. Not positive on that. Been a long time since I read anything on it. Edited: What I just said was covered in some previous posts but for some reason I could not see the previous posts. Now i can't see how to delete this post. Oh well!

Me too!

I'm with you. When I click on the new "Unread Content" then I have to scroll down and click on the link to show more. So if I'm on page 2 or 3 of show more when I click the back button I get nothing. I have to click on unread content again and I loose what I had just finished reading or replying to. Hey, it's just change. It is what it is and then it is what you make of it. How come when I hit the return key it drops down two lines? Doesn't make sense to me, but it is what it is....blah blah.

I don't worry about altitude or temperature change. I set my pressures so there is a fudge factor and I'll never be below or above weight load recommendations. Also, if going up in altitude increases the pressure and the temperature in higher altitudes is less than the lower altitudes, they just about balance out. Even at sea level going from 70 degrees to 100 degrees is about 6% change in temperature so at 100 PSI it drops to 94 psi. If minimum pressure depending on specific weight is 90 PSI, well it's still within MFG's recommendations. I never set my minimum PSI based on weight minimum I always give it a fudge factor just because there are subtle changes. It is science but it is not rocket science.

I always get "The Good Looking" discount and it usually comes with a guffaw.

We used one in San Antonio recommend by the CG and they did a fine job for $80. Forgot the name but i can find it with a phone call.

A loss of 15% is going to put your tire weight PSI below the 80 psi needed for your weight and the same for the rear tires. You may wish to use Roger's 10% value as that would keep you just above your minimum recommended value. same for the rear(s). A 10% drop from 90 psi is 81 psi and anything lower than that you want to know immediately. A 15% drop would put the front at 5 psi below the recommended minimum for the tire(s). (I think - Roger can explain it better)

Yes, thanks for the update. If I could make a driving suggestion. When you see a fairly good climb ahead, take it off of cruise control after pressing down on the accelerator pedal and reaching the same as cruising speed. From that point on do not move your foot, keep it in the same spot. As you climb the grade the engine and transmission will maintain a proper climbing speed and your chances of overheating will diminish considerably. As stated, if the engine temperature starts to climb, drop it down a gear and maintain 2000-2500 rpm and you should see a drop in engine temperature. Leaving the cruise control on when climbing steep grades will cause a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) in most cases and the engine temperature will rise. Just my experience and humble opinion. It does work for me and I have the same engine and transmission as you do.

What is your tongue weight from the trailer with the car loaded?

My onion: First I'd redistribute some of the front load to reduce the difference - or have the passenger loose some........never mind. A large distribution difference can have it's toll on components. Looking at the chart for the 275/80R22.5 for Michelin and using the present front value I would set the pressure at 90 psi and that would give you a 570 pound leeway for anything you would add to the front. (Trinkets the passenger may purchase) The minimum for your RF is 80 psi @ 4970 psi but this only gives you a leeway of 80 pounds of trinkets to add to the front load. You have to inflate all tires to the same PSI across the axle so even your LF would have to be at 90 PSI based on your current values. Let's assume you load to 90 psi. That gives you a maximum load capacity for that tire of 5370 pounds and is well above your 4860 pounds. The "Fudge" factor is 10 PSI, so if you drop pressure by 5-10 pounds you don't have to worry about putting air in. As you go up in elevation you will have a change of negative .47 PSI for each 1000 feet of elevation change so as you go up your PSI will go down and as you go down 1000 feet you will have a positive .47 increase in PSI. Going from sea level to 10, 000 feet would drop the pressure 4.7 psi. That would still be within your minimum PSI rating. If you start at 10,000 feet and go to sea level you would still be within the recommended PSI settings For temperature you can figure about 2% of pressure differential for every 10 degrees of temperature change. Going from 70 degrees to 100 degrees would be about 6 PSI and would still be under your 110 PSI maximum. Going from a start of 100 degrees to 0 degrees would decrease the pressure by 6 PSI and still be withing the chart recommendations. I like the fudge factor way of airing up my tires. I set the pressure so that it can drop several PSI and still be within load range, or increase by several PSI and still be under the max PSI recommended by the tire manufacturer. If you have not done so, go to Tireman9's web site and read up on some of his tips an tricks. Roger is very well studied on the subject of tires.

Funny Bill, LOL!

The Home Depot one will not have RV written anywhere on the package. Hmmm! Does that matter?

Just send him your credit card. He'll use it (for lunch) and send it back. Right Todd?

Joe, don't forget to buy Todd lunch!

I guess there are different scenarios. Consider this regarding un-level sites. Say the back wheels are down the slope from the front wheels. to level it will be necessary to bring the back wheels up, not to break the surface, but enough that the contact is not the full force of the MH sitting on them. Well, I have been in that situation several times and as stated, the piece of mind by chocking the front wheels and the back is just a simple step. Besides, the others in the park look at the chocks and think I'm really safety minded. (I am.)

She may have received an answer in another thread but this thread does not have the make/model of her coach. I don't read Monaco threads or any other threads that don't pertain to me. I just don't have the time to peruse all the different threads. The problem is that when a person is having trouble with their water pump, heater, refrigerator and other on-board systems we share the same components in many cases. Posting in a manufacturer specific thread may not result in some good answers from others with the same components. Carol only had 3 posts when she started this thread. Hope she answers the PM and come in and joins us again. She did the right thing in posting her questions to the Technical/Electrical thread.

Oh, no doubt about it that Todd is doing a fine job in maintaining this web site. My personal thoughts are that the new forum look is not as intuitive as the old one was - at least for the way I used to view it. Just a perspective.

Didn't Joe say he was taking you to lunch? Something to that affect.