wayne77590

Oh, no doubt about it that Todd is doing a fine job in maintaining this web site. My personal thoughts are that the new forum look is not as intuitive as the old one was - at least for the way I used to view it. Just a perspective.

Didn't Joe say he was taking you to lunch? Something to that affect.

I so agree that knowing the make of the coach helps considerably. However: Are the slides hydraulic or electric. Mine are electric. I'll tell on myself: After several attempts to operate the slides and a few choice words - I turned the key on that disconnects the power to the slide motors. It is separate from the ignition key. So, is there a separate on/off switch that has to be engaged before operating the slide?

So many times when hooking up I find that the breaker is on. I sometimes wonder if I'm the only one who turns the breaker off before disconnecting. WigginJSR, Use a volt/ohm meter (Multimeter or Circuit Tester) and set it for 120v. Attach the black (ground) probe to an Earth Ground (water faucet will do). Touch the red probe to several different areas of the MH. If there is a reading of any kind you have a current leakage and a dangerous situation. Get it taken care of.

I personally do not like the new layout of the forum, but I'm only one person.

Well, I just don't like leaving it empty. Mainly because this is a free reading forum and someone from your part of the town now knows I'm leaving. So between the alarm system, my son and DIL, (and he works for a police department if you get my meaning) the house is in good hands.

Ooo! Fast it looks.

I purchased the Wash Wax All kit but I have only used it on the TOAD. Works well hand applied on the TOAD. The extension rod that comes with the kit is great, although a little on the hefty side. Next time I get the RV out of storage I'm going to give it a try. The kit is pricey. In the meantime I have used the Turtle Wax ICE Spray Detailer. Just spray it on and wipe it off. It works well but bugs are bugs and sometimes they are difficult and sometimes they just don't come off. They also have an ICE Wax. ICE can be found at most auto stores, Walmart, Target, etc.

If it is alright here, what was the suggest retail price on those, or PM me. Thanks. p.s., I have had Magne Shade window protectors Since Magne Shade first opened their product - or there abouts. Roger and Clare Hunckler are wonderful to work with. Great support and service.

Regarding your thought process, yes, it is time to replace them. You are very close to the case cracking after they bulge. If you can do it safely, disconnect them and take them out soon.

Our first stop will be Temecula at the SKP park to visit some friends for about 5 days. Then to Del Mar Beach for 15 days and will attend my son's retirement ceremony. After that we are planning to take a trip up the coast (again) to Whidbey Is. WA, then back home. Probably be on the road for 3-4 months depending on how long my other son and DIL can babysit the house. Don't like to leave it unattended.

Roger, I don't know how the Coachman is wired for the steps, but on my particular installation I have to turn the steps to the off position when I put it in storage. I'm fortunate that the switch is near the entry door and I can reach it with the screen door closed and the little port opened. My converter puts out a 2 amp trickle charge and the step plus the computer dash components draw more than that. The step has a current limiting electronic circuit. When it reaches the closed or opened position the current limiter activates the stop function. There is a constant current to the steps when the switch is on.. When I first acquired this MH I would have a dead battery after several days. Once I found out about the step switch I have never had that problem again. Since you indicated that you have a 2.24 amp draw I am assuming that you either used a clamp on amp meter or disconnected the negative terminal and put an amp meter in line. That is what I would do and then I'd start pulling fuses one at a time until I saw the current drop. That would be the culprit and if not essential that fuse could be pulled when you are going to park for a long period of time. Might be best if two people did this with one at the fuse box(es) and one at the amp meter to yell. Okay, just thinking out loud.

Try Magne Shade they have a good reputation and product.

Dave, Welcome and I am an "xspert." With "X" being an unknow quantity and "Spert" a drop of water under pressure, so I qualify as an "xspert." Your coming to Texas and in may we leave for California. Wave if yo see us zooming by on the highway.

I put one on the rear ladder with the mounts made for the plaque. Mine is plastic. For the front I did the same as you and went to Hobby Lobby and bought some of the clear suction cups with the hooks on them. Sits right in the right front window and does not obstruct the view. Been working find for 8 years.

Also see my previous post. On the motor end there will be a slide lever. On my particular electric Power Gear/Kwikee motor the brake slide clockwise to lock the brake, but check your MFG's manual. You could also call Lippert as they have bought out PowerGear/Kwikee and have been receptive to my phone calls. My opinion is that the motor brake lever is not firmly set causing that one side of the slide to drift out. I also have a "manual" override. After checking that the brake(s) are correct, there is a small pin hole in my slide controller. With a tooth pick or paper clip I push the button inside the hole for 6 seconds and the light will start blinking. I can use the in and out button to bring in each side NEVER exceeding two inches difference. They can be pressed simultaneously to bring in both sides at the same time - sort of defeats the purpose of automation. In you case, and if you have that "manual" override, push one or the other of the in/out button until both ends are seated. That is supposed to sync the motors. If the drifting out is still there it may be time to replace the motor - or let the repair facilities take a crack at it. Rots of ruck!

Above post did not post the same way it looked when I pasted it, so here is the link. Tire Comparison Chart

275/80-22.5 295/75-22.5 Difference Diameter inches (mm) 39.82 (1011.5) 39.92 (1014) 0.1 (2.5) 0.2% Width inches (mm) 10.83 (275) 11.61 (295) 0.79 (20) 7.3% Circum. inches (mm) 125.11 (3177.72) 125.42 (3185.57) 0.31 (7.85) 0.2% Sidewall Height inches (mm) 8.66 (220) 8.71 (221.25) 0.05 (1.25) 0.6% Revolutions per mile (km) 506.45 (314.69) 505.2 (313.91) -1.25 (-0.78) -0.2% Speedometer Difference Speedo Reading Actual Speed 20 mph (32.19 km/h) 20.05 mph (32.27 km/h) 25 mph (40.23 km/h) 25.06 mph (40.33 km/h) 30 mph (48.28 km/h) 30.07 mph (48.4 km/h) 35 mph (56.33 km/h) 35.09 mph (56.47 km/h) 40 mph (64.37 km/h) 40.1 mph (64.53 km/h) 45 mph (72.42 km/h) 45.11 mph (72.6 km/h) 50 mph (80.47 km/h) 50.12 mph (80.67 km/h) 55 mph (88.51 km/h) 55.14 mph (88.73 km/h) 60 mph (96.56 km/h) 60.15 mph (96.8 km/h) 65 mph (104.61 km/h) 65.16 mph (104.87 km/h)

Herman, my brother lives in a S&B that has very low pressure. He has a pump for the house that when they are going to take a shower he just turns it on and it increases the pressure. Kind of cumbersome but it is very old technology. I'll bet they have the same thing in miniature form now. Flimsy panel no problem. 1/2 or bigger angle iron, one with the holes in it bent at top and bottom to anchor to floor of bay and overhead of bay. Another, if space is there, would be a 2 x 4 (or 1 x 4) with the same type of hurricane clips used in houses to anchor it top and bottom. Just thinking out loud.

You are welcome. I don't mess with mine, just set it to 50 and leave it there. If the pressure at the faucet is low then fooling with the setting is not going to help. However, to much pressure and it will do the job of keeping it at 50 psi. PEX is rated at 80 psi @ 200F, 100 PSI @ 160 and 160 PSI at 73F. It is not so much the PEX I worry about bursting but the compression fittings and how the old world craftsman put them on. I don't have a lot of room to mount mine in the bay and sometimes the PVC Piping that the CG's use out of the ground are flimsy at best. I stopped putting it directly to the faucet and instead use a 3 foot water hose from the faucet and just lay it on the ground. I'm going to clean out the compartment and look for a better place to hang it. I also went to Lowes and picked up a gauge and 3/4 inch fitting. I cam hook this up to the faucet and get a reading for comparison. Small footprint. I wonder sometimes about the longevity of the PEX. Here at the S&B I had a riser to the toilet just split. Had a mess of water on the floor. My golfing plumber buddy of the day said that those should be replaced about every 5 years and to use the reinforced ones. On the days I'm real paranoid in the MH I'll turn the water off at the spigot when we go anywhere. Only done it a few times - darn.

Is it difficult to cut up the bowling ball, or do you just use the smaller size billiard balls? (Sorry, couldn't resist!)

Uh huh!

Don't miss the Diorama in Gettysburg. It used to be housed at Artillery Ridge Campground but it is now downtown. If you stay at Artillery Ridge you get a free pass other wise it's $10. (Well, it was the last time we were there. Been 4 times. Love the history.) Do the Diorama before you take any tours.

Have you thought of a trade-in.....nah, never mind. Don't even mention it.

I think that it differs between localities. Here in the Houston area gross weight capacity of 1 ton or more is not allowed and towing a trailer (TOAD) is not allowed. When I'm in my MH I'm disqualified on both counts. Anyone from Atlanta area?