wayne77590

A loss of 15% is going to put your tire weight PSI below the 80 psi needed for your weight and the same for the rear tires. You may wish to use Roger's 10% value as that would keep you just above your minimum recommended value. same for the rear(s). A 10% drop from 90 psi is 81 psi and anything lower than that you want to know immediately. A 15% drop would put the front at 5 psi below the recommended minimum for the tire(s). (I think - Roger can explain it better)

Yes, thanks for the update. If I could make a driving suggestion. When you see a fairly good climb ahead, take it off of cruise control after pressing down on the accelerator pedal and reaching the same as cruising speed. From that point on do not move your foot, keep it in the same spot. As you climb the grade the engine and transmission will maintain a proper climbing speed and your chances of overheating will diminish considerably. As stated, if the engine temperature starts to climb, drop it down a gear and maintain 2000-2500 rpm and you should see a drop in engine temperature. Leaving the cruise control on when climbing steep grades will cause a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) in most cases and the engine temperature will rise. Just my experience and humble opinion. It does work for me and I have the same engine and transmission as you do.

What is your tongue weight from the trailer with the car loaded?

My onion: First I'd redistribute some of the front load to reduce the difference - or have the passenger loose some........never mind. A large distribution difference can have it's toll on components. Looking at the chart for the 275/80R22.5 for Michelin and using the present front value I would set the pressure at 90 psi and that would give you a 570 pound leeway for anything you would add to the front. (Trinkets the passenger may purchase) The minimum for your RF is 80 psi @ 4970 psi but this only gives you a leeway of 80 pounds of trinkets to add to the front load. You have to inflate all tires to the same PSI across the axle so even your LF would have to be at 90 PSI based on your current values. Let's assume you load to 90 psi. That gives you a maximum load capacity for that tire of 5370 pounds and is well above your 4860 pounds. The "Fudge" factor is 10 PSI, so if you drop pressure by 5-10 pounds you don't have to worry about putting air in. As you go up in elevation you will have a change of negative .47 PSI for each 1000 feet of elevation change so as you go up your PSI will go down and as you go down 1000 feet you will have a positive .47 increase in PSI. Going from sea level to 10, 000 feet would drop the pressure 4.7 psi. That would still be within your minimum PSI rating. If you start at 10,000 feet and go to sea level you would still be within the recommended PSI settings For temperature you can figure about 2% of pressure differential for every 10 degrees of temperature change. Going from 70 degrees to 100 degrees would be about 6 PSI and would still be under your 110 PSI maximum. Going from a start of 100 degrees to 0 degrees would decrease the pressure by 6 PSI and still be withing the chart recommendations. I like the fudge factor way of airing up my tires. I set the pressure so that it can drop several PSI and still be within load range, or increase by several PSI and still be under the max PSI recommended by the tire manufacturer. If you have not done so, go to Tireman9's web site and read up on some of his tips an tricks. Roger is very well studied on the subject of tires.

Funny Bill, LOL!

The Home Depot one will not have RV written anywhere on the package. Hmmm! Does that matter?

Just send him your credit card. He'll use it (for lunch) and send it back. Right Todd?

Joe, don't forget to buy Todd lunch!

I guess there are different scenarios. Consider this regarding un-level sites. Say the back wheels are down the slope from the front wheels. to level it will be necessary to bring the back wheels up, not to break the surface, but enough that the contact is not the full force of the MH sitting on them. Well, I have been in that situation several times and as stated, the piece of mind by chocking the front wheels and the back is just a simple step. Besides, the others in the park look at the chocks and think I'm really safety minded. (I am.)

She may have received an answer in another thread but this thread does not have the make/model of her coach. I don't read Monaco threads or any other threads that don't pertain to me. I just don't have the time to peruse all the different threads. The problem is that when a person is having trouble with their water pump, heater, refrigerator and other on-board systems we share the same components in many cases. Posting in a manufacturer specific thread may not result in some good answers from others with the same components. Carol only had 3 posts when she started this thread. Hope she answers the PM and come in and joins us again. She did the right thing in posting her questions to the Technical/Electrical thread.

Oh, no doubt about it that Todd is doing a fine job in maintaining this web site. My personal thoughts are that the new forum look is not as intuitive as the old one was - at least for the way I used to view it. Just a perspective.

Didn't Joe say he was taking you to lunch? Something to that affect.

I so agree that knowing the make of the coach helps considerably. However: Are the slides hydraulic or electric. Mine are electric. I'll tell on myself: After several attempts to operate the slides and a few choice words - I turned the key on that disconnects the power to the slide motors. It is separate from the ignition key. So, is there a separate on/off switch that has to be engaged before operating the slide?

So many times when hooking up I find that the breaker is on. I sometimes wonder if I'm the only one who turns the breaker off before disconnecting. WigginJSR, Use a volt/ohm meter (Multimeter or Circuit Tester) and set it for 120v. Attach the black (ground) probe to an Earth Ground (water faucet will do). Touch the red probe to several different areas of the MH. If there is a reading of any kind you have a current leakage and a dangerous situation. Get it taken care of.

I personally do not like the new layout of the forum, but I'm only one person.

Well, I just don't like leaving it empty. Mainly because this is a free reading forum and someone from your part of the town now knows I'm leaving. So between the alarm system, my son and DIL, (and he works for a police department if you get my meaning) the house is in good hands.

Ooo! Fast it looks.

I purchased the Wash Wax All kit but I have only used it on the TOAD. Works well hand applied on the TOAD. The extension rod that comes with the kit is great, although a little on the hefty side. Next time I get the RV out of storage I'm going to give it a try. The kit is pricey. In the meantime I have used the Turtle Wax ICE Spray Detailer. Just spray it on and wipe it off. It works well but bugs are bugs and sometimes they are difficult and sometimes they just don't come off. They also have an ICE Wax. ICE can be found at most auto stores, Walmart, Target, etc.

If it is alright here, what was the suggest retail price on those, or PM me. Thanks. p.s., I have had Magne Shade window protectors Since Magne Shade first opened their product - or there abouts. Roger and Clare Hunckler are wonderful to work with. Great support and service.

Regarding your thought process, yes, it is time to replace them. You are very close to the case cracking after they bulge. If you can do it safely, disconnect them and take them out soon.

Our first stop will be Temecula at the SKP park to visit some friends for about 5 days. Then to Del Mar Beach for 15 days and will attend my son's retirement ceremony. After that we are planning to take a trip up the coast (again) to Whidbey Is. WA, then back home. Probably be on the road for 3-4 months depending on how long my other son and DIL can babysit the house. Don't like to leave it unattended.

Roger, I don't know how the Coachman is wired for the steps, but on my particular installation I have to turn the steps to the off position when I put it in storage. I'm fortunate that the switch is near the entry door and I can reach it with the screen door closed and the little port opened. My converter puts out a 2 amp trickle charge and the step plus the computer dash components draw more than that. The step has a current limiting electronic circuit. When it reaches the closed or opened position the current limiter activates the stop function. There is a constant current to the steps when the switch is on.. When I first acquired this MH I would have a dead battery after several days. Once I found out about the step switch I have never had that problem again. Since you indicated that you have a 2.24 amp draw I am assuming that you either used a clamp on amp meter or disconnected the negative terminal and put an amp meter in line. That is what I would do and then I'd start pulling fuses one at a time until I saw the current drop. That would be the culprit and if not essential that fuse could be pulled when you are going to park for a long period of time. Might be best if two people did this with one at the fuse box(es) and one at the amp meter to yell. Okay, just thinking out loud.

Try Magne Shade they have a good reputation and product.

Dave, Welcome and I am an "xspert." With "X" being an unknow quantity and "Spert" a drop of water under pressure, so I qualify as an "xspert." Your coming to Texas and in may we leave for California. Wave if yo see us zooming by on the highway.

I put one on the rear ladder with the mounts made for the plaque. Mine is plastic. For the front I did the same as you and went to Hobby Lobby and bought some of the clear suction cups with the hooks on them. Sits right in the right front window and does not obstruct the view. Been working find for 8 years.