wayne77590

I'm going to assume that by standing water you mean a surge guard that is submerged. Fortunately I have never run into that problem. Been in some torrential downpours and we have never had a problem. As for thievery, I have a 1/4" chain about 3 feet long that I attached to the security connector on the surge guard and wrap it around the pedestal a few time and lock it to itself, and sometimes around the water faucet if it's metal. In the 8 years using a PT-50C Surge Guard protector we have never had a problem. As for someone taking it, well, a screw driver can get them into the basement compartments, or the MH door, and take anything they want. It's just a matter of "peace of mind" being able to lock something up.

No, the half time oven has worked very well. The list of repairs we have had to have done is to long for the thread. Major ones were/are: big slide out came off bed rails and pulled the frame out of the floor; Slide auto locks had a recall but nothing was sent out regarding it. Twice we had to have an RV moblile repair come out and put his back to the slide while I operated the controls to get it in. Jacks: well, since 2010 we have had problems with the jacks from the jacks down alarm constantly coming on while going down the road to not being able to stabilize for any period of time with the right front jack doping down; and many small annoying problems.

I have the collapsible ladder. Easy to handle and store. Reaches up to the gutter on the MH. I'm fearful that a continuous weight on the MH ladder with all the jostling going down the highway could damage where it attaches. Just my worry.

Most of the time I leave the cover to the pedestal open a little bit to act as an umbrella.

I understand! I have had both Sealand and Thetford and for both, every once in a while DW will put on the gloves (bless her heart) get some soap and reach down and clean the seals. The Sealand seemed to be more prone to grit getting on/under the seal. There was a tool made (just a flat head screwdriver with a 1" right angle bend at the tip) to get under the seal, but the gloved hand and soap did the trick better. BTW, gloves are optional if you prefer. Also, every once in a while I WILL put on the gloves and give the seal a light coat of Vaseline. So far so good. Gloves have not torn. Toilet does not leak.

Hmm! Guess I'll not be buying either of those brand when it's time to go new.

Mine has had torrential downpours on it and since they resealed it 6 years ago it has not failed yet (knocking on wood).

Hmmm! Where did you get your reviews from? Here is a link tohttp://www.rvparkreviews.com/regions/new-york/gasport and the review for Niagara Hartland is has a "7". I have a 40 ft mh pulling a toad. I was able to drive around and up to the pull-through with no problem. I did decide to stop before pulling in and disconnect. Upon leaving I connected before pulling out. Yes, it is out in the middle of nowhere but that gives it the charm, quietness and good pricing. When y'all are up that-a-way, give it a drive through. We stayed 4 nights with the additional electric rate $4 a night deposit and on leaving we had a $4 refund. Nightly rates seem to have gone up since we have stayed there, and I think our rate was $16 a night plus $4 deposit came out to $19 a night. Not bad in my book. The sites at Niagara Hartland are the typical/standard size sites. Not big and wide by any standard. The sites at Daisy Barn are maybe a little closer, but no much. The area is nice and only 20 miles from Niagara. It used to be a Passport America park but I believe it has dropped that status. Daisy Barn is all back-in sites. It would be nice if more people who stayed at CG's would post up-to-date reviews. In any case, enjoy your trip and don't forget, there are three bridges The Rainbow Bridge, Whirlpool Bridge, and Lewiston/Queenston Bridge. My preference is to go across the Lewiston/Queenston bridge and visit Niagara-On-The-Lake, then double back on the Niagara Parkway stopping at the Whirlpool and continuing on down to The Falls. The shoppers and walkers will like Niagara-On-The-Lake village. There are some restrictions on the Whirlpool Bridge. For truckers the Lewiston/Queenston Bridge is he route. That is the one I crossed going over to Michigan in the MH. Wonderful highway across. Have a happy trails ride!

Dually Valves and talk to Bill Faulkenborg.

We have stayed at Niagara Heartland RV Resort (resort name only). Sites are close but nothing we have not had before. About 40 miles from Niagara but if you go North from Heartland to Hwy 18 the drive along the coast is worth it. Only 30 miles by direct route. Niagara Heartland Passport America rate is $16 a night with metered electric but still cheaper than downtown Niagara and other areas. Daisy Barn Campground in Wilson, NY is 22 miles from Niagara. Check out their Drone Video. Rates are typical for the area at $40 a night and $250 a week but the view and sunsets are spectacular. Sitting in the Gazebo you can see Toronto across the lake. Many permanent but very nice people. Boy do they have the grounds to expand.

Tom, I had a Progressive portable that stopped working because the seal where it entered the box was bad. PI repaired it in no time and I took some of that plumber's tape and did a wrap around the wire going in. It's almost time to replace the tape - but that plumbers tape has to be cut off.

Below is a link that may be helpful to everyone for future purchases. I recently went from Michelin to Toyo and the link was a great help: Tire Size Calculator

I sent you a PM. Welcome to the FMCA forum.

David, You should feel warm air coming out of all the heat registers. The volume may not be the same but there should be some warm air. If not, I would check the ducting to the registers, first at the register and if nothing found out of the ordinary I'd check at the furnace end. if duct has come loose the warm air would just be escaping and not coming out of the register. Happy trails.

As Herman suggested. The DOT code is a string of numbers with the last for indicating the week and year. Example DOT code ending in 0712 (last four digits) would be 7th week of 2012. Welcome aboard.

I have used the Kargard II for 2 years now and find it easy to set up and easy to hook up. Blue Ox has redesigned it and the 100% back up their product. I had a screen tear. They sent me another screen, and that one started to show signs of tearing. A modification was done, extension added, and screen seems to have better sewing. Just finished a couple months on the road and no problems.

David, Regarding propane: If the tank valve is shut off it will take some time for the propane to circulate and pressurize itself in the lines. The refer may not run for a while. When turning the propane valve on do it as slow as a turtle moves with it's head in the shell. (that's slow). This will allow the propane to displace the air in the line and equalize. Best test method is to turn on the gas burner on the stove but don't use the piezoelectric igniter. Instead, carry one of those butane grill liters. Ignite the lighter and hold it near the burner and turn on the burner. You may see nothing for a little bit but eventually a few of the burner holes will ignite, then the burner will ignite. Do this for the other burners and once they all light shut them of and try the electronic light. If all is well the fridge should power up on propane. Be careful.

David and Judy, congratulations on retirement. I have never regretted it. You have already been giving some good advice by previous posters. No question is a dumb question so ask away - I might even have a dumb answer. If in your travels you come down through the Houston, TX area on your way South, be sure to stop for a day or two and give a holler. We like playing tour guide if we are in town.

After 7 years of 55,000 miles of use I recently had to unscrew the top drain filter(little holes and a screw in the middle) and pull out the hair. Drained fine after that.

Have you considered putting on Alligator Tire Valves? They seal and they do not have to be unscrewed to put air in or let air out. I used them for several years before I purchased a TPMS system. The outer dual had a short valve with the alligator valve on it and the inner had a 4" valve with an alligator valve on it. Worked great. Edited: use a dual head tire inflator. For the outer you pull the inflator on the aligator valve and for the inner you push the inflator. Google is your friend.

I'm going to jump in here, just can't resist. For Texas, a CDL-2 form is requried. The form is for a "Texas Class A or B Driver License Application Non-CDL Exempt Vehicles" If you look at the link I provided it specifically states this sentence under Certification: "I will operate one or more of the following commercial motor vehicle(s) that exceeds 26,000 lbs GVWR or GCWR and requires a Class A or B license that is exempted by the Texas Commercial Drivers License Act" (Blue highlight is my design) Rv's are one of the exempt if it is driven for personal use. Now why would one have to fill out the CDL-2 for exemption when the statement above specifically states, "I will operate one or more of the following commercial vehicle(s)..." We are not operating a commercial vehicle unless you go by Federal law that states that vehicles that weigh 26,000 lbs or more are commercial vehicles. I wonder why the left hand writing states Commercial and the right hand writing does not - must be a buch of beauracratic mumbo jumbo and if an operator gets stopped they will be at the mercy of the State(s) jurisdiction. Again, why is it necessary to sign a CDL-2 for exemption if the RV is not considered commercial. It is. By the same token, a business owner could have an RV with decals on it that is definately used in the business but employees drive the vehcile with the proper licensing. Now comes vacation time and the owner wants to take the RV on a two week trip. He has a standard Class A, B, or C as appropriate for the state he is in and he is driving the RV for "Personal Use Only." Is he allowed. Strange laws, eh? Texas CDL-2 Form p.s., Note that the statement quoted is for 26,000 lbs GVWR or GCWR so if the MH weighs 25,000 pounds and the toad weighs 3500 pounds, that is over 26,000 lbs and a proper class license is reqired, namely a Class B since the toad is under 10,000 lbs. And look at the bottom of the form, "For Department Use Only" and it states, among other itmes, "Written Exam Required: Texas Commeercial Rules I think we are driving commercial vehicles but just don't need a CDL. p.s., it really depends on who is on duty that day. I acquired a CDL back in 1986. At that time I was driving for a private company with a 1 ton truck towing a 14,000 lb trailer. A Class B was required because the trailer was in excess of 10,000 lbs. Laws change, but somehow a lot of the manuals do not. Also, when searching using the Google Encyclopedia some of the information that it displays is real old information so it is imperative to check the date on information and stay abreast of the laws. Many sties, including Government sites have confusing information.

We have an '04 Lincoln Towncar, my wife's pride and joy, and when a few times in the last couple years parts were needed they had to be acquired in the "after market." As stated, dealers and manufacturer's do not have the warehouse space to to stock parts for older vehicles. Now, with that said, if the area is "salvageable" like in big parts a good body shope can do wonders with fiberglass.

Well dang! I-5 is mostly "stop!" We prefer to not take the freeways when possible. The means we do have to go through some one-horse-towns, and sometimes several stop lights. Those times I do shut the exhaust brake off, but truthfully sometimes I leave it on. Depends on if the wind is blowing up or down. :-) I have takin' the short cut through San Fran and across the GGB. Don't remember if I left it on or off as i was kind of busy with the wheel doging those city drivers. Hey, The 101 is just as bad. Left Oceanside, CA, headed to Porty Hueneme, CA, all of a distance of 156 miles and it took 5-1/2 hours on The 101. Go figure. I did leave it on then. Never knew if you were going to be doing 55 for 1/4 mile or stopped for 15 minutes.

I'm just the opposite. I leave mine on - according to manual - and turn it off in city driving. The reason stated was to keep the pads from shelacing. I have pads on my MH. So far on my annual maintenance checks there is no shelacing and after 50,000+ miles Freightliner Technician said I have 60% brakes left - no need to change them.

Great idea on using the PVC. Thanks.