kaypsmith

Huffypuff is correct, seems that the dealer is also frustrated. Send a certified letter, return receipt requested, you will need those receipts if legal action is warrantied. You probably have already searched for help, and I assume you are in Kentucky. Heres is a url that you can visit. http://www.yourlemonlawrights.com/kentucky-lemon-law.aspx?KCTrkrIdId=1488532&gclid=CN3L5oGW770CFTMV7AodckoAHw

Have you looked for a battery isolator, maybe diode based, or relay operative. Most coaches have one, and yours may have gone bad. Just a thought, since you have now tested using a known good battery charger.

"mpierce" is correct, decrease pressure on tag will add to drive, and lessen steers!

Could almost anything, but I would start with the simplest. Hookup another waterhose, I have seen hoses collapse on the inside. Next check for a pressure regulator in line to the coach, if there is one, take out for the test, if it is bad, replace it, you never know about the cg pressure. As Rich said the flap valve is another place to look, some of them have screens that can clog. Also look for a fresh water filter that may be inline, a well used one will produce the symptoms that you described. Hope you find a simple solution. Kay

Rich is probably correct. The proper way to uninstall multiple batteries, is if there is a battery disconnect, then use it first, then disconnect the ground from the group, then disconnect the positive from the group, then dissemble the group. When installing, exactly opposite is correct procedure making sure that the battery voltage is correct for the group before connecting the positive first, then the ground, then the disconnect last. This will eliminate any unnecessary arc, and help prolong the life of all electronics.

Assuming that it is a pusher, being diesel, the chassis might have been produced in 94, and titled that way, although HR called it a 95. This may explain the NADA info differing, and this happens a lot of times. Is it a pusher? What make is the engine? Being owned by a truck driver probably is a good thing. I know that Holiday Rambler was making a very well built unit in that date range. So it could possibly be a good deal, but if you don't know much about RV'ing, it will be well worth finding someone who does to check the unit and give an assessment. Not a dealer that would be trying to sell theirs instead, but a certified diesel mechanic, and also someone who knows what to look for in other departments, such as, roof, electrical, plumbing, and the many other items to look for, including rust. Take some pictures and add them to your post. Good luck hunting!!!

All of the above are good. My first was a Southwind with the 454, my last resort was to go a high performance shop and purchase a very expensive set of plug wires, that was my final solution, and it work for me. BTW, I had replaced with factory replacements three times before, with no good results.

Sorry for misleading, here is a url that will be helpful. http://www.readybrake.com/state_laws.html

The rules that apply in your home state "where you are licensed", applies in all states that you visit. This may not be the best in some scenarios, such as going where there are very steep grades to descend. So for that reason, let your conscience be the guide. Kay

AMEN Bro., clean air and slick oil is the key to engine life!!!!

Was introduced in 2009. http://www.workhorse.com/morepull/ Correct again Brett, helps to know more about the unit in question.

Ray is correct, have it inspected by an RV expert. The owner should be happy to have the unit cleaned, especially the roof. Six year old tires are nearing their eol, not sure if they are 19.5, or 22.5, if 19.5, they will be a little less expensive to replace. Three years sitting for the motor and tranny, may not be so bad, but after cranking, make sure the unit gets driven and reaches operating temperatures, then parked on a clean driveway overnight. Check under the coach next day, especially under the transmission, the engine, and also under the rear differential, at the yoke, and also check behind the rear brake drums for any possible leaks. Sitting long periods will allow the seals to dry out and crack. I'm only telling you these things, so that the expert, will know what you are looking for. Hope it turns out to be a great deal for you.

Tiffin Allegro offered in 2010, Navistar Maxxforce 7 diesel, was rated at 215 HP. For information purposes only!!!!

http://community.fmca.com/topic/4605-diamond-shield-replacement/ There is a pretty good discussion on this, the url above will take you to it. Kay

As Brett mentioned, the fridge controls are 12 volt, ie., this battery power. The ac outlet is 120 volt, you will need a volt ohm meter, or some device capable of measuring 12 volts.The AC light will not light if 12 volts is not present, and the fridge will not work on either 120 volt, or gas if the 12 volts are not present. Even if the gas is not present, if the control board is functioning, you can move the switch to gas, and the light will show the changeover, and nf will appear. Look for the 12 volt supply, if there is 12 volts the control board will light, or that is a sign the cb is defective. Not very likely, but a possibility. If 12 volts not present, look for a fuse in the 12 volt fuse panel to be blown. Good luck!

I also value the company of my wife while we are traveling. She leisurely tends to cooking, keeping the both of us hydrated and helps keep down the boredom. We could communicate by radio, or walkie talkies, but still not like seeing each other. As Brett mentioned the extra fuel, if any, while towing is very negligible. When we make short trips to the nearby campgrounds, she usually drives separately to avoid hooking up, but hooking up is a small chore once you get used to it. Happy trails.

As long as all four tires on the duals are being replaced, shouldn't make any difference. I had to replace mine on the last the same way. The 245X75X22.5 was exactly the same height and circumference as the 235X80X22.5 Michelins, only 10 mm wider each, both require the same width wheel. Thing to look for is that the spacing between the duals remain wide open, ie., they do not touch each other. Kay

I had a Dodge Ram 1500 van once, that did that also, I changed to mopar filter and used mobil one oil. It was the only way that I could drive over 50,000 miles without changing oil pumps. I drive many miles per year, two oil pumps in first 100,000 miles, before making that change. Ran 200,000 miles after making the change, then retired the van, still running with 300,000.

Hope you are videoing this!!!!! Sounds like a sure winner for funniest videos. I feel for your pain. Kay

There are several brands of floating floors on the market. As Ernie pointed out you can cut around the edges to replace it, or cut around the egdes to releive the buckling condition, then cover over it. The floating floors work very well, and are very easy to put down. There are many patterns and styles available, ie., tile look, hardwood look, etc. I have done this in two motorhomes so far, one, seven years ago and one two years ago. Both of them still look great. This is for information purposes only, but might help with some ideas. Kay

Thanks Brett, really is a good post. I had a timing sensor going out on my Detroit 6V92, which is DDEC III, similar symtoms. I had system hooked up to a computer for readout, it told the entire story. Also this computer will shut the engine down within one minute after sensing that the surge tank in cooling system is below twentyfive percent, or oil is too low. ay

Brett usually has best answers, but here a few suggestions. Make absolutely sure that the fuel filters are clean, take them out and closely monitor the fuel being poured into a glass jar. If any water, there will be beads at the bottom of the glass after sitting for a while. Also look for algae in the fuel, will be black ickey "for lack of a better word" substance in the fuel. When replacing the filters, preferably with new ones again, pay close attention to your manual for replacing the filters, some manufacturers suggest different ways to prime them. Next thing to look for is seating of the filters, some use o-rings, that sometimes need replacing, as age will give up to cracking, letting air into the fuel system, diesel engines have problems with air in the system. Also check fuel lines from the tank all the engine, looking for small signs of fuel at any and all fittings. Also suspect air filtering, clogged air filters have similar symptoms.

There is a clamp-on amp probe that can be purchased that clamps around an ac wire that will tell the current being at any given moment for that wire. I use a Fluke, cost around $250. these days, there are cheaper ones available, starting at about $12.00 . And as Brett said, you will not blow up your RV by connecting to a lower amperage hookup. Only trip the cg breaker. Your largest enemy is cg low voltage: below 108 very bad, also over 130, very bad, these will ruin ac appliances and electronics faster than tripping breakers.

The rv style refrigerator will not work if the house batteries are disconnected because the control board is 12 volt, nor most lighting, as they are also 12 volt.

Right again Brett, my 335 hp 6V92 Detroit can be turned up to 500 hp for marine use only!