kaypsmith

Huffypuff, do you know the wattage of the diode, I will gladly send you one. A small arc from the broken wire probably blew the diode. Hope you have better luck this winter.

Here is a manual download for the Dometic 900 series. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold900.pdf C4 error code , on 3 way model indicates 12 heater failure. Good luck troubleshooting!

I agree with Herman, and dd69, I would not weld to the frame of any motorhome. A bracket can be made for most anything that needs to be added, then bolted or ubolted if necessary. And if welding is required for anything, in addition to Rich's suggestion, be sure to disconnect all leads to the alternator, as they have computer controls built in as well.

Haven't seen any type actually run on 12 volt in years, as dd69 said. If it does in fact have 12 volt mode, suspect the 12 volt heating element has gone bad, it will be a different element than the ac one. Quick solution is to put the 120 volt cord into a 12 to 120 volt inverter, and run the fridge on ac mode while you need to be on 12 volt.

I live near Birmingham, Al., B&D electric rebuilds all of my motors, and I have many rebuilt within a year. I will call Monday, and get the shipping address for you, and also ask if they are willing to work on. Most likely will be yes as I am in the electronic field and use many kinds and voltages of motors. Kay

I think it stands diesel emission fluid sensor. Some more EPA gestalpo junk.

Forgot to mention that you must turn off the water supply to the water heater for obvious reasons, most plumbers install a shut off valve on the cold water supply to the water heater.

House type water heaters usually have a valve at the bottom of the tank that you can screw a standard water hose to, then put the outlet of the water hose outside in a lower than the water heater location. Turn of the gas supply, or electric if electric, open the valve where the hose is attached, also open a hot water faucet in the house, so that air can enter the system, otherwise an air lock will prevent the tank from draining. This is actually recomended to be done once a year by most manufacturers to remove sediment from the tank, which will slow the heating process if it does accumulate. Happy snowbirding!!!

If you are plumbing savvy, two inline check valves can be used to eliminate the need for manual valve. Place the first one immediately after the city water entrance, the second one between the pump outlet and the entrance to the main water plumbing where it enters the pipe. This system works well, especially if there is an accumulator in your system, if there is not one, can be added very easily. No more having to use a manual valve.

If using shark bite, or gator bite, or whatever name they are called, depending on where you get them, these are push on fittings that do not require a crimping tool. Just remember to carefully debur the outside of the pipe. there is an o-ring that makes the seal, and if you snag that ring, it will leak.

The type valve that Brett mentioned can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, and other hardware stores in the Pex plumbing accessories.

As long as you have side to side clearance, should be ok. 255 vs 235 = 20 mm, or in inches about 8/10 of an inch wider. The height overall is 2.25 mm in radius, or 4.5 in diameter about 1/10 of an inch. I have replaced 235/75X22.5 with 245/70X22.5 and the circumference is almost identical, which is what affects the speedometer calibration. Probably not enough to worry about.

If you do get a 3 way valve, try to replace with stainless steel if possible. Stainless is more forgiving during cold weather conditions.

Way to go Gerald!!!

In my younger days, I drove a 6 wheel truck to several states neighboring Alabama. If you had a plate that wasn't Mississippi in that state, you had to prove that you had bought sufficient fuel in that state to cross it, this meant even if you just crossed the border, then turned around and crossed back out. Yes Brett, I was wondering about the 26,000# gasser also.

Glad to know that they are open minded, many parks do have sections that is set aside for the newer ones, and I think this is a great idea. Just remember the 20 year old ones were less than 10 years also. As we were also!

Thanks Bill, I feel the same about that issue.

Not a bad idea to run 50 amp as the wire will the most added expense. You can purchase 3 outlet box like found in most campgrounds today. Your 30 amp can be plugged into the 30 amp outlet without an adapter, and you can run a heavy duty extension cord into the rv on the 20 amp outlet to use the 1500 watt heater that you mentioned plugged into that, be sure the extension cord is a 12 gauge. When you upgrade to a 50 amp rv in the future, the wireing is already done.

I would not seek shelter in an overpass, see the NOAA report post. http://www.crh.noaa.gov/ddc/?n=over

I would give the manufacturer a call with a complaint. If other slideouts on the same unit do not make the same noise, there probably is a limit switch that is not properly working, or properly adjusted. I don't believe that a manufacturer would have different devices or limiters on the same unit.

Stuff steel wool into any openings that have any open space, such as wiring and plumbing voids. Also peanut butter on glue boards placed in compartments will help to catch them.

I use Verizon myfi 4g. Most of my travels are in the northeast, so I can't possibly tell the national story. I have very good throughput, downloads exceeding 700 k, and the modem is about the size of a credit card, 1/4 inch thick, and supports up to five computers simutaneously, which requires no additional router.

WOW, glad still use billy stick!

I know you just bought new chairs, but I found two very nice looking fold up wooden chairs at Lowes. While traveling, we fold them up,I added hooks on the wall that they nest into, then strap them in place with strong rubber tarp straps into eye hooks in the wall.

New seals can be bought for most any brand rv toilet, just need to know brand and model of the toilet. Getting rid of the antifreeze smell should fairly easy. The gray water tank doesn't usually pose much of a problem because you normally empty it when you dump the waste water. The fresh water holding tank is another issue, most people empty the fresh water tank for winterization, if that is not the case, then yes you need to empty it by draining, or pumping it down. To get the smell out of the supply lines, one needs to flush them with plenty of fresh water, then I recommend using a quart of hydrogen peroxide through the system. This can ne accomplished by unhooking the supply hose, draining it, then pour the peroxide into the hose and hook it back to the water supply and turn the water back on. Go to the further most faucet inside the coach and run water. Same can be done to other valves inside the couch. I'm sure others will have other ideas, but that's why we are here.