kaypsmith

IT is 110, please do not install as 220, it will fry your coach electrical if wired 220.

Tom's comments are very good, especially about using the second lane if possible. Truckers, and bus drivers are taught to use these lanes when possible for several reasons, and the best reason is because road hazards tend to lay on the right shoulder of the road.

Seems like a poor design to me also. Might be a good idea to add a safety latch to these doors that can remained unlocked when parked.

I recommend that you drive to an empty parking lot without the dingy, have someone else drive the dingy, then hook up the dingy. Place some safety cones, or cardboard boxes, or barrels, along a route that you have planned. Then practice passing the obstacles and pulling in ahead of them using your mirrors, and the rear camera. Then head for the interstate outside of the city limits where traffic is not so bad, if possible, have a friend or spouse in a separate auto with cell phone, or walkie talkie in hand, pass and repass several times. Practice is the key to any role becoming better.

12 volts when plugged, or generator, is probably from the converter, or inverter/converter. Sure sounds like a solenoid not making up for some reason, possibly bad, or master switch bad. Could even be a bad, or incorrectly wired battery isolator, if the coach has one, most do. Maybe a jumper from battery bank directly to the 12 volt side of the converter for trouble shooting purposes, that is of course the battery bank has already been deemed to have proper voltage, 12.6 or above.

Glad you enjoyed Camp Gulf. But be careful telling others that you brought back sand from Florida, that is a punishable crime in Fl., LOL.

Air bags have limiting valves that are set to determine when the coach reaches the correct ride height. One or more of them could be damaged, broken, or stretched, If any of the above has happened, the ride will be impaired. As Brett said, get the correct ride height, then park the coach on a level hard surface and measure all four corners of the coach to check against the correct ride height. A leaking dump valve on the stationary jacks can cause a ride problem as many other small items can cause it. As Rich said, 12 year old air bags may be a factor, many begin to crack causing a large leak, which the control valve may not be able to recover fast enough.

All of the above are good ideas. In addition, I never leave the waste valves open when connected to full service. Leaving them open will cause the thing to happen as described in the op. Simply open the black water first then the grey water daily then close them back off after a full dump, of course more often if needed, but most of us do not require unless extra quest are on board.

The wheels are 10 inch, not 10 inch tires. This set up sure got my attention, the fact that surge brakes are standard equipment, most others have electric brakes. Surge seems to be a good way to go, if it wasn't U-Haul wouldn't use it.

Either route is pretty good, the grades aren't too bad on either, 411 is two lane part of the way, but plenty wide, and some good sites.along the way. Exit 407 is of course 4 lane all the way, with some construction between the interstate and Sevierville. If you decide on exit 407, after crossing the mtn., follow 66 and turn left onto 411, go to Veterans Parkway turn right and follow past Dollywood to 441. This will bypass the 441 traffic through Sevierville into Pigeon Forge, which is murder in a motorhome, with all the stop and go traffic. While there, if you have time, plan a visit to Cataloochee ranger station, which is back in North Carolina just a little ways. The elk are a nice site to see. Hope to run into you there, I'll be arriving July 6 for a week stay.

Has nothing to do with electric, but in 2007 I was in Victoria Canada, and saw my first Smart Car. It was a diesel model and three different owners swore they got 70 mpg, this really got my attention, and I wanted one to pull behind the motorhome. I started looking and none was available in the US, did not meet epa regulations. When the US version came available in 2009, I was very disapointed because it was a gas version and only specked at 42 mpg., good thing still is the roll cage is still rated one of the safest on the road, and weighs less than 1800 pounds.

I signed up with AAA, their promise was better than most others, have had Good Sam's for years but was dissapointed when I called for a tire replacement, the cost was double what I actually paid. I still haven't used AAA yet, so I don't know how that will work out either. By the way, AAA does have roadside assistance for motorhomes, but you have to specify it, and it is at an additional cost.

I think I would want to put a short supply line from the 5 gallon container directly to the pump to verify that the supply line does need replacing.

I did the same as aztecfan, except put a pair of hinges on the side next to the cabinet and added a handrail to the bottom side of the plywood and a door hook to hold it up when not in use.

Most pushers are longer between front and rear wheels, and shorter behind rear wheels and rear end of the coach. This is the most noticeable difference in driving a gas model and a pusher, and requires some getting used to. Pusher requires a longer forward move than the gas model and will require getting used to. The other post are also correct, although the overhang on the rear will not be as cumbersome as the gas, still have to be careful for the overhang, but not as likely to take down those stop signs with the overhang but more likely to take them down if you forget the extra length in the middle. As stated in other post the ride is superior, and air brakes will take some getting used to. Happy trails, and good luck on the new acquisition. Kay

Supernewb, Welcome to the forum, and like Herman said. One at a time will get you more answers. But here are some thoughts on a residential fridge, begin with the measurements of openings getting the fridge into your coach. Then start the shopping process, I have a 20 ft. res fridge in my coach, but the process was not too easy, as I stated, I had to know how to install it. My fridge is 32 inches wide, 69 high, and 30 thick, those measurements cant possibly go through a standard RV door, but my windows are large enough to allow. I then shopped for the lowest total draw of electrical current, this can be found on the inside of a new refer., mine is a Samsung which was certified at 3.9 amps max., and will run on a modified sine wave inverter, which can be bought for a fraction of the cost of a pure sine wave inverter. Pure is better for some appliances, but not necessary for all, ie., you might want to think modified for some items, and pure for others. They can be supplied from batteries that are shared from both inverters. I will never go back to the RV style absorption refer again. Happy trails, Kay

If you have a pdf reader, "adobe", here is a copy of the manuel http://www.ucmerced.edu/sites/www.ucmerced.edu/files/rfp/documents/atwood_hw_heater_specs_0.pdf The last page has a picture, look for the element. Good luck

If you ae are comfortable working with 120 volts, use a VOM "volt ohm meter" to insure 120 volts is reaching the element, set meter in ac position and touch the leads to the wire connections, of course with cold water in tank, if voltage is there, your controls are working. If no voltage, of course check breaker and reset if necessary. The controls are 12 volt and will work with or without 120 volt. Element can be tested with the ohm meter, be sure to turn off the 120 volt, disconnect one lead to the element, set meter to ohms, touch leads to both sides of the element input, if meter shows 0, the element has a dead short and will trip breaker every time, of if there is no show of resistance, the element is open, and can not work. Elements are cheap and can be found at most RV supply stores.

I, like huffypuff use the Traeger PTG. It is not propane but have owned 3 propane before, and would not go back. It did not come with a stand but there is one available that takes up little room for storage.

Lockout switch yes, but I have not seen a latch on the awning unless added to make sure that it does not unfurl because of wind. I have two 17 footers that I installed on my coach, one worked perfectly the first time out and in, next time out, no action. I had to remove the motor assembly, and found one pin that goes through one of the planetary gears was missing from the factory, added a pin and has worked fine ever since. The motor would turn as I could hear the motor running but still no action before the fix. I also use velcro straps around each arm of the awnings while traveling for safety sake.

I bought my grill at Sams Wholesale Club two years ago, I was in the store today, and they have the same one at that store. It is Sizzle-Q brand, all stainless steel, measures 17.75 X 13. Took the picture on top of my 3 burner stove to show what it looks like. If you cant locate it or whatever you like best, pm me, I will be glad to help locate. Kay

On a 2014, I would get in touch with the dealer first, then Jayco if needed. A 2014 model surely has some warranty, they should step you through some simple directions to determine the problem. Don't be afraid to ask, that's what service technicians are for. But one simple thing to do is to have someone hold the switch while someone with good hearing gets real close to the motor head and listens for action, make sure that they are not in the path, just in case it does start moving. Most electric awnings do not have a latch to release for opening, unless the end user adds one. Hope the fix is simple, or under warranty! Kay

Tannehill does not take reservations, if senior citizen, $18.00 daily.

On the opposite side of the airport towards Tuscaloosa, there are some RV parks, including Tannehill State Park. Tannehill does not take reservations, it is first come first serve, and most of the time there is several sites open. Next door to Loves truck stop, there is another park which was a KOA, but has sold to a private owner, and I will check the name and phone number. Or you can stay at my place, free of charge, Have 50 amp hookup, and in the middle of nowhere. I will also check on some other possible sites within a few days, and pm them to you. Kay, (PS) I'm within 17 miles of the airport.

Only other thought, is, are you sure that there is a gas flame when on gas. The freezer may be just staying cold because it is already frozen, makes no sense that both seem to work well on ac voltage, same absortion unit supplies the same amonia on gas or electric. But check that you do have a flame, my old dometic had an indicator on the door that showed AC or LP. If it indicated NF, that means that there is no flame. As I mentioned before, proper ventilation from the outside, is critical. There is a fan assembly that can be added to the chimney that will greatly improve performance, as it is important to get the excess heat out from the refer unit.