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Everything posted by kaypsmith
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40' Revolution To A Winnebago 42E (Tag axle)
kaypsmith replied to billfrid42's topic in Type A motorhomes
Wanderlodge, Prevost, Mci, why did they need a slide? Not knocking slides, but with only two people on board! Slides were available then also. -
I am terribly sorry that I missed something in my post. OP stated in an earlier thread that he had replaced the capacitor assembly with the complete kit provided to him. The original PTC was fried, therefore it had to be replaced. He installed the new assembly and it fried also. When he called a tech in to replace the replacement, the tech was obviously bright enough to check the resistance of the compressor before proceeding to install a third cap and components. I don't know what his reading was, but I doubt that his VOM was so cheap that it would not read 0 ohms (DEAD SHORT).
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Registration Fees In Maryland
kaypsmith replied to hayesfamily's topic in Laws and Legislative Action
Move to Florida for the lowest that I know of. Alabama is where I reside, and if your rig is over ten years old, you would qualify for minimum value, $1000.00. Then you will be OK, tag for class 3 here, about 110.00. But if newer, hold your wallet, I was in the tag office when a gentleman came in with a top of the line Itasca, tag was $3775.00 for one year. We pay ad valorem tax here yearly based on the black book value, another reason that I will not buy a new coach while living here. I agree with Bill, sounds like you have a pretty good deal. -
Carl, Hmmmmmm!!!
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Will be perfect, actually a little better. Just turn on the front AC and turn on the hair dryer, start with a lower setting then move up through the settings starting with the lowest, let the generator continue to run for the test a couple of minutes, move to the next highest setting for a another couple, and so on, until you reach the highest. Each move up it is not uncommon to hear the generator sound as though it is reving up, it is, that's because it is keeping up with the load. You will trying to find the spot where the generator starts to bog down and start cutting out. If you reach high and no bogging and continues to run fine, the generator should be fine with an AC replacement. One thing that I did not mention, let the AC begin to cool and make sure that the compressor is working before turning on the hair dryer, at this point, you will be depending on the intellitec to do it's job also, after all it is part of the equation as well. Hope this works out well for you.
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One will need to know the amp draw of the device in order to know if that unit is compatible or not, that's why I recommend a heater. If your wife has a hair dryer, that can be set to high if it draws enough watts, some of them have the draw marked on them for each setting size. To calculate amperage at 120 volt, simply divide the number of watts by 120, the results is the amp draw. If in a campground, I would bet that a neighbor has one, ask if that person would plug it up for your test, it will not hurt their heater, it just will refuse to glow bright red when the generator starts to bog. Yes you can put several devices together to equal the top number of amps. I used to use 300 watt light bulbs to trouble shoot a circuit in a shorted device, plugged just ahead of the questionable device, it will glow bright, then removing one component of that device at a time until I found the faulty component, at which time the light will glow dim. To answer a question earlier about the tech checking resistance, if he used his test leads correctly on the compressor and found zero resistance, that would clearly indicate a shorted compressor, which means that it would do nothing but trip any breaker or start a fire if not checked by some type short circuit device, which in the case of the air conditioner would be the PTR, or whatever the weakest link may. By the way, I admire your persistence to learn.
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Yes you will have to login again, that's where info is stored for tracking your computer, if the info gets corrupted for any reason, it will affect authentication. Maybe a problem with the forum, but this eliminates possibilities with your end.
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I feel your pain, I limped into a Love's truck stop with mechanics on duty, and asked for them to replace my single fuel filter. Answer was we do not work on buses or RV's, ok do you have this filter in stock, I can replace my own. "NO wont even look for one." I limped back 12 miles to a TA truckstop, they bent over backwards to help and with a very reasonable shop rate. Guess who I do not buy from any fuel from any longer.
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I stated in the earlier post, do not overload, never over the manf weight limit. Considering that any weight close to the top of any unit does take away from handling as well as the design of the coach, some are boxier than others, aerodynamics also come into play. As I stated, forward of the rear wheels, not necessarily adding to the front wheel weight. If that heavy on the front end, which could be adding to instability, your case may indicate that a little added behind the rear axle may actually help. There was a question on this forum earlier about some type of air deflector, don't remember the name, but I do know of a few that added them, and the claim that they helped. Also adding weight may not be the answer, sometimes just a mere redistribution helps.
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The login glitch has happened to me on several occasions also, especially after logging on with a different computer. I had suspected an authentication issue also. Blake, have you cleared cookies lately? That usually has fixed that issue for me in the past.
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Thanks for that update. One thing to try to rule out the AC, leave this AC out of the picture and make sure it is the same circuit as the rear AC, plug in a 1500 watt electric heater, turn on full 1500, that's 12.5 amps @ 120 volts, very close to the amp draw of a 13.5 AC at startup. If the genset bogs in this condition, that will indicate that there is still a problem with the generator. But you are still having a condition with the AC apparently, and I will stick with my opinion that if you are handy, a replacement of the AC will be the cheapest route to go for several reasons, one being that the newer units actually cool better and the seer is higher than the older ones, meaning less load on the generator first, and also leaving more energy available for other appliances in your coach. I mentioned in an earlier post about pricing on ebay (rv air conditioners), so you can use it as a guideline to make sure that you are not being ripped off by another technician, and also if you decide to have a tech do the replacement, you can have that person give an estimate just to swap it out. Good luck whichever way you decide to go. By the way, the AC's, when ordered can be shipped to the nearest truck terminal and picked up there, eleminating the need for having to use a home address, just use the park address and your cell #. I misstated that seer is lower, it is actually higher, I edited the post to correct that mistake. The higher the seer, the more efficient the unit is.
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Roof air conditioners on ebay start at about $475.00, some but not many have free shipping, and not hard to replace if you can get someone with a loader or fork lift to lift it to the roof. I have used a winch on a makeshift gin pole attached to the back ladder before. Yes Herman we have strayed, and I was wondering what had happened with the loading of the engine.
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Roland, not to even try to persuade against upgrading to another coach, but can't help adding a little advice about your present coach. It appears based on your wheelbase that you have a gasser with a good deal of overhang. You probably already know this, but moving as much weight (storage) as possible forward of the rear wheels will help considerably. I have in the past added granite flooring in the galley area to help with this condition. Do not overload, (rocks are heavy) but adding some weight there for TEST purposes wont hurt. If adding weight, close or on the floor, just another thought.
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Gotta love Uncle Sam, here is a fact sheet about the difference. http://www.deloperformance.com/content/dam/chevron-delo/Brochures/PC-11/CHE-20409 PC 11 Poster_36x48_092315_2.pdf actually a fact sheet and or about delo 400 and their claimed improvement over CK-4. only for what it is worth.
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As Brett pointed out, many factors must be taken into consideration, but to answer your question. "Does a tag axle improve ride?" In most cases it will help with stability if everything else is in place. The "trail axel" was first introduced on the GMC Scenic Cruiser, because the first few that Greyhound added to their fleet was a single drive axel, and those beast's were literally all over the road, my uncle was a driver of one of them, and refused to take another trip until that problem was fixed. GMC brought them back for redesign, the trail axel was the result of that recall and retrofit. It became one of the drivers favorite busses to drive with the exception of a few that didn't want drive anything over 35 feet. If you notice closely the TAG is always a single wheel behind the drive axel, with the exception of the now defunct Silver Eagle which the TAG was in front of the drive. I have driven both and I prefer the trail. Though the Silver Eagle die hard, bus nuts, still love to convert them, they were very adaptable to most builders schemes.
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One more of the same battery should add two to two and a half hours based on the reported time. I'm surprised that unit uses that much current. Are you doing that much boondocking that you must use a 12 volt supply? Or is it only for safety sake?
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Winegard Wifi Extender
kaypsmith replied to thirdrock44's topic in RV Internet to Go/Staying in Touch
The Winegard is a very good line as a whole. But that brand wifi extender appears to be rather pricey. A wifi extender does just that and there are other brands available, with the exception that other brands are not designed to be roof mounted. I use a hotspot instead of park wifi because most parks have pretty poor wifi coverage unless you are parked next to the park office. Any brand range extender could do the same job, just place it outside the RV once parked, and find an area that has the best signal to place it. Netgear and Cisco are both good brands, and the newest technology is the ones marked 1200 AC and higher, remember the higher the preceding # before the AC designation, the faster the device is, are the best available for individual use, because they use multiple radios to receive and retransmit the signal giving much faster speeds to the end user. If I was going to buy a booster for my use, I would use a cell phone booster to get the best of service for cell phone and hotspot use, because several parks that I frequent have poor cell phone service. Hope my little rant helps, and happy motoring. -
Domain names don't work the same as e-mail for just changing the password. There are many reasons other than security for changing a domain name, for instance another company might want your name, and is willing to buy it and offer a handsome profit. And sometimes you can lease from another company cheaper than the one you are currently using.
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My inverter is only an inverter on a 30 amp circuit with an ATS, when leaving CG or home I switch on the inverter, everything in the coach except AC's are powered on, it remains on until we reach destination and shore power is restored. Batteries are charged with a separate converter.
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Thanks Herman, no it is not a rock stars, but my DW said I had rocks in my head when she first saw it. Was just a typical old white bus at that time with no seats, just a driver seat. But then she started taking interest and together we cloroxed the inside, then started the conversion. The outside paint was covered with vinyl wrap. Thanks for adding your picture Joe.
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Thanks Bill, when I first joined, uploading pictures was a pain, had to keep it in very small bit size which meant using paint or some program to reduce the picture. I could make it happen, but then I had used all of my allotted room. Anyway, I have noticed that others are uploading pictures lately, therefore I wanted to try again. The picture is my homemade coach, built from a retired greyhound, went to Vermont carriers and retired from there. Hubometer shows 252,208 currently, and Greyhound retired these babies at close to 100,000. Thanks to FMCA for upgrading the forum, and making it easier do the new task's. Oh yes, the picture was at St. George Island Florida last May, going again this May.
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Have you checked the water level in the radiator since starting it? Possibly coolant had or has an air pocket, don't know what unit or motor you have, but my Detroit will shut down with the condition that I described.
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Coach Net Or FMCA Roadside Assistance?
kaypsmith replied to gordiegaffer's topic in Type A motorhomes
I subscribed to Good Sam for 7 years, called on them four times over that period. Twice for tow purposes and twice for tire service. Not one time did I let them perform their service, one time for towing, I wanted the vehicle towed to a known shop, 12 miles further than the nearest service center, response was no can do even if I paid difference in mileage. One time refusal on towing because I can not allow my unit towed on a cable. Twice for tires, the tires that they would bring were twice the price that I paid a local service. I changed to AAA RV Roadside service, have used them four times in four years, Three times for towing, and one tire service, service and promptness was excellent on every call. I have had no dealings with Coachnet, therefore can't respond for them. -
I prefer hydraulic surge brakes because of the ease of hooking up to them, no electric controller needed and legal in all states. We're I "designing" one to be used behind a coach with air brakes, I would build it air over hydraulics, but then again that is only a dream.